Blink and you miss it: that's true of most of the small towns in the island's interior and especially so of Santa Gertrudis. It's not much more than a bend in the road, but worth a look. The brick-paved town square is closed to vehicle traffic—perfect for the sidewalk cafés. From here, you are only a few minutes' drive from some of the island's flat-out best resort hotels and spas and the most beautiful secluded northern coves and beaches: S'Illa des Bosc, Benirrás (where they have drum circles to salute the setting sun), S'Illot des Renclí, Portinatx, and Caló d'En Serra. Artists and expats like it here: they've given the town an appeal that now makes for listings of half a million dollars or more for a modest two-bedroom house.
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