The oldest hotel in Pamplona, after several years of refurbishing, has reinvented itself as a luxury lodging option. Rooms have been modernized and redecorated in plush pastels and sleek contemporary lines. Several have retained their early-20th-century style, among them Hemingway's (No. 201, from which he watched the running of the bulls in 1924). The hotel founder's son, Lalo Moreno, was a bullfighter, and the mounted heads of two of his taurine adversaries preside over the restaurant. Prices triple during San Fermín.