Fodor's Expert Review Abantal

Slightly off the beaten path but worth seeking, chef Julio Fernández's tasting menu takes you on a journey of the senses featuring seemingly ordinary local produce and traditional recipes elevated with unusual textures and preparations. The menu changes with the seasons, but always has nine dishes (€95) or 12 (€115) as well as extra-virgin-olive-oil menus. The long wine list includes local, Spanish, and international labels, and there are wine-pairing options. The place is relaxed and spacious, with fine crystal and freshly ironed linen on the tables. Booking is essential.