Krutitskoye Ecclesiastical Residence (Krutitskoye Podvorye)

Krutitskoye Ecclesiastical Residence (Krutitskoye Podvorye) Review

The first cathedral on this hill was erected sometime in the 13th century. Its name comes from the word kruta, meaning "hill." This was originally a small monastery, a site of defense in the 14th century against the Tatar-Mongol invaders. At the end of the 16th century the monastery's prestige grew when it became the suburban residence of the Moscow metropolitan. The church and grounds were completely rebuilt, and the current structures date from this period. As monasteries go, Krutitskoye's period of flowering was short-lived; it was closed in 1788 on orders from Catherine the Great, who secularized many church buildings. In the 19th century it was used as army barracks, and it's said that the Russians accused of setting the Moscow fire of 1812 were tortured here by Napoléon's forces. In the 20th century, the Soviets turned the barracks into a military prison. Although the buildings have been returned to the Orthodox Church, the prison, now closed, remains on the monastery grounds.

To your left as you enter the monastery grounds is the five-dome, redbrick Uspensky Sobor (Assumption Cathedral), erected at the end of the 16th century on the site of several previous churches. It's a working church, undergoing restoration like many of its counterparts throughout the city. Still very attractive inside, it has an assemblage of icons, lovely frescoes, and an impressive all-white altar and iconostasis. The cathedral is attached to a gallery leading to the Teremok (Gate Tower), a splendid example of Moscow baroque. It was built between 1688 and 1694, and its exterior decoration is the work of Osip Startsev. The gallery and Teremok originally served as the passageway for the metropolitan as he walked from his residence (to the right of the Teremok) to the cathedral. Passing through the gate tower, you will see the military prison, replete with lookout towers, on the opposite side of the Teremok gates. Film crews often come to shoot inside the now-defunct prison.

You should go through the gate tower to take a full walk around the tranquil grounds. From this side, you can enter the bell tower, which dates from 1680. Taking the stairs inside, through the door off its first level, you'll have access to the gallery itself and can walk along the walls. To get here from Proletarskaya station, take only lefts out of the station to emerge on Sarinsky proyezd. With your back to the metro, walk toward Trety (3rd) Krutitsky pereulok, the busy street a short distance ahead. Turn right to reach the older, tree-lined street leading up an incline. This is Chetvyorty (4th) Krutitsky pereulok. Climb to the top of the hill and you'll see the five-dome Uspensky Sobor.