A mainstay for anyone living or working in the area, this beautiful, famly-run 19th-century bacaro across from the squero (gondola repair shop) of San Trovaso has original furnishings and one of the best wine cellars in town—the walls are covered floor to ceiling by bottles for purchase. Cicchetti here are some of the most inventive—and freshest—in Venice (feel free to compliment the Signora, who makes them up to twice a day). Try the crostini-style layers
of bread, smoked swordfish, and slivers of raw zucchini, or pungent slices of parmigiano, fig, pistachio, and toast. They also have a creamy version of baccalà mantecato spiced with herbs, and there are nearly a dozen open bottles of wine for experimenting at the bar. You'll have no trouble spotting the Cantinone as you approach: it's the one with throngs of chatty patrons enjoying themselves.
Fondamenta Nani, Dorsoduro 992, Venice, 30123, Italy