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Dining options in Venice range from the ultra-high end, where jackets and ties are a must, to the very casual. Once staunchly traditional, many restaurants have renovated their menus along with their dining rooms, creating dishes that blend classic Venetian elements with ingredients less common to the lagoon environs.
Mid-range restaurants are often more willing to make the break, offering innovative options while keeping traditional dishes available as mainstays. Restaurants are often quite small with limited seating, so make sure to reserve ahead. It's not uncommon for restaurants to have two seatings per evening, one at 7 and one at 9.
There's no getting around the fact that Venice has more than its share of overpriced, mediocre eateries that prey on tourists. Avoid places with cajoling waiters standing outside, and beware of restaurants that don't display their prices. At the other end of the spectrum, showy menu turistico (tourist menu) boards make offerings clear in a dozen languages, but for the same €15–€20 you'd spend at such places you could do better at a bacaro making a meal of cicchetti (savory snacks).
Budget-conscious travelers might want to take their main meal at lunch, when restaurant prices tend to be lower. Also keep an eye out for cafés and trattorias that offer meals prepared for operai (workers); they’ll have daily specials designed for those who have to eat and run, which anyone is welcome to partake in. Bacari offer lighter fare, usually eaten at the bar (prices are higher if you sit at a table) and wine lists that offer myriad choices by the glass.
Although pizzerias are not hard to find, Venice is not much of a pizza town—standards aren't what they are elsewhere in Italy, and local laws impede the use of wood-burning ovens. Seek out recommended pizzerias, or opt for a bacaro snack instead of a soggy slice of pizza al volo, which is too commonly precooked and reheated. Tramezzini, the triangular white-bread sandwiches served in bars all over Italy, however, are almost an art form in Venice. The bread is white but doesn’t at all resemble the "Wonder" of your youth; many bars here still make their own mayonnaise, and few skimp on the fillings.
Established in 1950, this restaurant along the quiet, northern outlier of Fondamente Nove has grandstand views of the San Michele island and various menus showcasing seasonal fish, meat, and pasta dishes. The friendly staff also serve ice cream, drinks, and sandwiches, making its modern bar, chic dining rooms, and lagoon-side platform restful environs to pause any time of day.
Housed in the atmospheric, deconsecrated ecclesiastical buildings of the Chiesa di San Giovanni Novo, this special restaurant run by the attentive Giuseppe (Pino) Calliandro marries classic Venetian cuisine with some inventive flavor combinations. In colder months dine amid magnificent wooden beams, religious artworks, and quirky objects; in warmer times, the pretty, plant-filled courtyard is the place to sit.
Judging by its rather modest and unremarkable appearance, you wouldn't guess that Piera Bortoluzzi Librai's trattoria is among the finest fish restaurants in the city both because of the quality of the ingredients and because of the chef's creative magic. You can choose from a selection of classic dishes with a modern and creative touch. The perfectly grilled fish is always freshly caught; in spring try the fried local soft-shell crabs ("moeche" in Venetian).
Set by the Palanca waterside with lagoon views and clean, contemporary interiors, Majer is a reliable, quality bet at any time of day. Start as early as 7 am for breakfast cappuccino and pastries or arrive later for brunch bites, leisurely pasta lunches, picnic bakes, aperitvo (aperitif) with vino, or dinner dates until 10 pm.
Along Via Garibaldi, the Colauzzi-run Nevodi (dialect for nieces, grandsons, etc.) provides a suitably warm family atmosphere married with tasty, seasonal, innovative fish and meat dishes. Book a table outside or in the pared-back, bare-brick interior, then dive into such delights as succulent clams and mussels in a broth; inky cuttlefish with polenta; bigoli in salsa (pasta with anchovy and onion); grilled octopus with garden vegetables; and duck breast in red wine reduction. Opposite, Nevodi Pizzalab does excellent value pies.
Anchored on peaceful Campo Widman since the '90s is Ostaria Boccadoro, where purist chef Luciano Orlandi brings fresh seafood from the Chioggia market to the plate raw or lightly cooked with imaginative but not overpowering seasoning. Ask Luciano to suggest a wine from his carefully edited Veneto-dominated selection, then peruse the menu of exquisite Boccadoro dishes, including their signature mixed raw seafood antipasto, daily homemade pasta, seared tuna, crispy fritto misto (mixed seafood medley), and perfectly prepared fish of the day like rombo (turbot) with garden vegetables; there's a meat option, too. The interior decor is elegant, with traditional fabrics and contemporary art.
It can be hard to find a good place to dine in touristy San Marco, but this delightful restaurant proves that it’s not an impossible quest. Creative takes on Venetian cuisine such as eggplant pudding with blue cheese and anchovy and pasta with raw shrimp, burrata, and pistachios attract both tourists and locals to the cozy brick-walled eatery.
For years, Diane and Cesare Benelli's Al Covo has set the standard of excellence for traditional, refined Venetian cuisine; the Benellis are dedicated to providing their guests with the freshest, highest-quality fish from the Adriatic, and vegetables, when at all possible, from the islands of the Venetian Lagoon and the fields of the adjacent Veneto region. Although their cuisine could be correctly termed "classic Venetian," it always offers surprises, like the juicy crispness of their legendary fritto misto (fried mixed seafood and vegetables)—reliant upon an unconventional secret ingredient in the batter—or the heady aroma of their fresh anchovies marinated in wild fennel, an herb somewhat foreign to Veneto. The main exception to Al Covo's distinct local flavor is Diane's wonderful Texas-inspired desserts, especially her dynamite chocolate cake.
Inside the high-ceilinged courtyard of the department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, this café from the Alajmo brothers team, designed by Philippe Starck, makes for a refreshing respite from the Rialto hustle and bustle outside. Stop by for a coffee and dessert or an aperitivo, or for hungrier palates, a good selection of pasta, pizza, and salads.
Off the main concourse on one of the most tranquil fondamente of Cannaregio, this small, family-run osteria is the place to stop for artful seafood and meat dishes in a romantic setting. Book a table among the wooden tables, columns, and mosaic floor of the rustic yet elegant dining room or right by the calming canal.
Sleek and elegant in the glowing, brick-lined ground floor of a 16th-century palazzo, the Caffè Centrale has vastly improved since it came under new management two years ago. It is a rarity in Venice: a restaurant that serves until 12:45 am, and is around the corner from the Fenice, so it makes a great place for a post-performance nosh. The menu, while giving a nod to Venetian cuisine (they serve an excellent baccalà mantecato), features mostly creatively prepared continental dishes, such as sautéed fois gras with Sauternes or a spectacular beef fillet with Amarone. There's also a broad selection of very fresh raw fish specialties. For dessert there's a sinful list of sweet temptations, including three variations on the classic Venetian sgroppino (an alcohol-laced sorbet).
For a break from traditional Venetian cuisine, head to this charming eatery featuring two menus: one with innovative Italian dishes, and one with well-prepared sushi and sashimi. Michela Cafarchia, who started Glamy in the garden of her family home, aims to use sustainable, local ingredients as much as possible.
With tables offering a spectacular view of the Zattere outside and an elegant room inside, Harry's (of Cipriani fame) makes for a very indulgent pit stop. While you can linger for an expensive lunch or dinner, those wanting to visit once should opt for the light bites, sandwiches, and sweet goodies, such as cake and gelato.
Longtime restaurateur Gianni Bonaccorsi has established an eatery where he can pamper a limited number of lucky patrons with his imaginative cuisine and impeccable taste in wine. Ridotto means “small, private place,” which this very much is, evoking an atmosphere of secrecy and intimacy; the innovative menus tend toward lighter but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. Ask them to recommend a wine from the excellent cantina.
The candlelit tables on this romantic campo are inviting enough, but it's the intimate restaurant's imaginative kitchen that's likely to win you over; you can order consistently excellent pasta, fish, or meat dishes à la carte or opt for one of the rewarding tasting menus. The wine list is ample and well thought out, and the service is gracious, warm, and professional.
Simple place settings, wood lattice walls, and a mélange of languages make La Zucca (The Pumpkin) feel much like a typical, somewhat sophisticated vegetarian restaurant that you could find in any European city. What makes La Zucca special is simply great cooking and the use of fresh, local ingredients—many of which, like the particularly sweet zucca itself, aren't normally found outside northern Italy. Although the menu has superb meat dishes, more attention is paid to dishes from the garden; don't miss the house's signature dish—the flan di zucca, a luscious, naturally sweet, pumpkin pudding topped with slivered, aged ricotta cheese.
Don't let the name pizzeria con cucina fool you: Muro offers its mostly youthful clientele a varied menu and uses high-quality ingredients, taking its cue from its more refined sister restaurant, Muro Rialto. Select from excellent Venetian fare and pizza in classic and innovative forms—try the arrotolata amoretesoro (a rolled pizza) with bresaola (thinly sliced air-cured beef), scamorza (a delicately flavored melting cheese made from cow's milk), and radicchio. Chef Francesco adds dimension to the menu with classic Italian selections, along with the piatti unici, a single course fancifully combining elements of first and second courses. A wide selection of beer is on tap.
This friendly neighborhood restaurant named for the old well nearby offers a wide selection of favorite Italian dishes. The pizza is made with locally milled flour that is left to mature for two days, and the pasta is handmade every day. Recipes use seasonal ingredients; this could be your only chance to try a pizza with pumpkin cream or with truffles in the fall. There are lots of meat and vegetarian dishes, and very little fish.
Since 1965, Al Gatto Nero has offered the best fish on Burano; no matter what you order, though, you'll savor the pride the owner and his family have in their lagoon, their island, and the quality of their cucina (maybe even more so when enjoying it on the picturesque fondamenta). The fish is top quality and couldn't get any fresher; all pastas and desserts are made in-house; the fritto misto is outstanding for its lightness and variety of fish; risotto alla Buranella features gò (short for ghiozzo fish), a Burano cucina povera ("kitchen of the poor") standard that had almost disappeared from local menus until Anthony Bourdain introduced it to travelers.
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