Fodor's Expert Review La Locanda in Centro

There's a warm and welcoming atmosphere at this osteria near Brignole station. Despite the young, enthusiastic staff, it has a reassuringly old-fashioned character, with a setting of chandeliers, bare brick walls, and shelves of wine bottles. The meat-favoring menu features some novelties among the genovese favorites, including pansotti (fresh pasta) with a walnut sauce, reindeer stew, and prawns with cognac and orange. You can sample these and other dishes on the four-course tasting menu (€38), and check out the board of daily specials.