Fodor's Expert Review Al Vecchio Mulino

Slightly off the tourist track but well known to locals, this grotto-like former mill has two long rooms with low, vaulted ceilings and a brisk but cheerful atmosphere. There's a good balance between meat and seafood dishes, the menu taking in everything from malloreddus alla sarda (local pasta with sausage-meat sauce) and fritto misto di mare (fried squid, prawns, and fresh fish) to crusty pizzas. You may have to wait for a table without a booking.