Owners John Farrell and Anita Thoma like to run this little two-story Italian restaurant like an intimate dinner party. A little quote board outside offers a daily pearl of wisdom, and old wooden tables and chairs give the two small dining rooms a casual feel. The friendly, if cramped, surroundings attract a devoted clientele and John's collection of contemporary art adds a dash of flair to the walls. The slow-cooked featherblade beef with winter vegetables and truffle oil is a standout evening dish. Risotto is a house speciality and the version with pancetta, leeks, and taleggio is a must. The wine list—heavy with Italian influences—is, to quote a local phrase, as long as your arm.