Beyond the popular beaches of Tsabou, Tsamadou, and Lemonakia, the spectacular stretch of coast road lined with olive groves and vineyards ends in the fishing village of Kokkari, one of the most-lively spots on the island. Until 1980, not much was here except for a few dozen houses between two headlands, and tracts of onion fields, which gave the town its name. Though now there are a score of hotels, and many European tourists, you can still traipse along the rocky, windswept beach and spy fishermen mending trawling nets on the paved quay. Cross the spit to the eastern side of the headland and watch the moon rise over the lights of Vathi (Samos town) in the next bay. East of Kokkari you pass by Malagari, the winery where farmers hawk their harvested grapes every September.


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