If Santorini didn't exist, little, bare Folegandros would be world famous. Its gorgeous Cycladic main town of Chora, built between the walls of a Venetian fort, sits on the edge of a beetling precipice: this hilltop setting represents, with the exception of Santorini, the finest cliff scenery in the Cyclades. Beyond this, the island does not seem to have much to offer on paper—but in person it certainly does. Beautiful and authentic, it has become the secret island of Cyclades lovers, who want a pure dose of the magic essence of the Aegean every year or so. Only 31 square km (12 square mi) in area and 64 km (40 mi) in circumference, it lacks ruins, villages, green valleys, trees, country houses, and graceful cafés at the edge of the sea. But what it does have—one of the most stunning towns, deliberately downplayed touristic development, several good beaches, quiet evenings, traditional local food, and respectful visitors—make it addictive. There are no discos, no bank, but the sea is shining and, in spring, much of the island is redolent of thyme and oregano.