Bajazzo—the restaurant that introduced Athenians to haute cuisine—is no more, but when it closed in 1999, several top staffers decided to open an intimate, candlelit dining room (with fewer than 10 tables) in a Neoclassic house. You have to ring the bell to be let in the cozy space. The menu still pays homage to the gastronomic splendor of Bajazzo but in a decidedly dramatic manner: instead of a printed menu, raw seasonal ingredients are brought to your table, chosen by you, then cooked to order according to your mood and tastes, which the waitstaff are quite skilled at gauging. Offerings are always changing, but the lobster with spicy Parmesan sauce and spinach al dente is a perennial favorite. Allow plenty of time for your dinner—here it is treated as a sacred ritual. Take advantage of the early bird (5 pm–8 pm) dinner prices.