Relying on traditional recipes from Thrace, Roumeli, Thessaly, and the islands, cooks whip up what may be the best Greek home-style cooking in Athens. There's no menu: pick from the tray of 20 or so small dishes brought to your table. They're all good, but best bets include tirokafteri (a peppery cheese dip), lahanodolmades (cabbage rolls), pastitsio (baked minced meat and pasta with lamb liver), katsiki ladorigani (goat with oil and oregano), and the octopus stifado, which is tender and sweet with lots of onions. For dessert, order the halvah or a huge slice of galaktobouriko (custard in phyllo).
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