Relying on traditional recipes from northern Greece and the islands, the chefs here whip up some noteworthy home-style cooking in the heart of the city. There's no menu in this modern Greek bistro with huge glass windows, adorned with authentic works of art by well-known Greek painters. Just start by picking from the tray of 20 or so small dishes brought to your table: they're all good, but best bets include the fried eggplant with yogurt and tomato, lahanodolmades
(stuffed cabbage leaves), fried red mullets, katsiki ladorigani (goat with oil and oregano), and the octopus stifado (a stew of octopus, onions, and tomatoes), which is tender and sweet. For dessert, order the halvah or a huge slice of galaktoboureko. For your main course, just follow the waiter's lead, but don't forget to ask for the daily specials.