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Nearly a century after Weimar-era Berlin redefined the meanings of decadence and excess, the city is still pulsing at pretty much all hours of the night. Berlin nightlife still pushes boundaries and takes risks. In fact, to non-Berliners who aren’t used to it, some of the clubs and bars here can appear to be operating far out of the boundaries of decency—or even the law.
Many Berlin bars will often open as cafés in the afternoon, slowly getting darker and smokier as the hours wear on and the coffee and tea turns into beer and wine. In Germany the term Kneipen is used for down-to-earth bars that are comparable to English pubs. These places are pretty simple and laid-back; you probably shouldn't try to order a three-ingredient cocktail at one unless you spot a lengthy drinks menu. If you're looking for something more upscale, elegant bars and lounges can be found in Mitte’s Scheunenviertel, in Charlottenburg, and in Berlin’s five-star hotels, and new cocktail bars are cropping up in unexpected places, like Kreuzberg, Schöneberg, and even Neukölln.
The best and most notorious clubs in Berlin occupy old industrial buildings in formerly shabby, alternative neighborhoods like Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg. As with bars, the snazziest clubs and lounges can be found near high-end hotels in Mitte around Unter den Linden and Gendarmenmarkt, or in Charlottenburg. Clubs are notorious for getting a shockingly late (or should we say early?) start: many don’t open until midnight, and aren’t worth visiting before 2 or 3 in the morning. Happily, the club scene is far less snooty and self-absorbed than in other major cities: for the most part, you’ll encounter lax door policies and casually dressed revelers. Since the fall of the Wall, Berlin has become a mecca for electronica, and that means club goers take dancing as seriously as partying. Prepare to be swept up in waves of endless, exuberant movement, much of it—especially in the case of Berlin’s most popular techno club Berghain—fueled by drug use. If that’s not your thing, though, don’t worry: there’s something for everyone in the city these days, especially now that the landscape has gone a bit more upscale. Note that clubs often switch the music they play nightly so the crowds and popularity can vary widely. Though club nights are driven by the DJ name, the music genres are written in English in listing magazines.
Berlin is unmistakably Germany's gay capital, and many Europeans come to partake in the diverse scene, which concentrates on Schöneberg (around Nollendorfplatz) and Kreuzberg. Check out the magazines Siegessäule (includes English-language listings and articles), (030), and blu.
You might not know to look at it, but Berlin is a veritable jazz destination. Home to one of Germany’s earliest programs of jazz study (at the Üniversitat der Kunste or University of the Arts) Berlin attracts serious jazz musicians from around the world, and nurtures its own homegrown talents. Aside from the large, long-running clubs focusing on international acts, smaller, cozier jazz clubs, barely larger than living rooms, are sprinkled throughout the city. The Berlin Jazz Festival takes place every November, uniting many of them.
The candlelit, rough-wood tables, water-stained walls, and frequent appearances by local musicians just dropping by for a few tunes give this cozy cocktail bar an artsy, old-world feel. Lovingly nicknamed "the Gramophone Bar" for the old gramophone that sits in its window, Bellmann is a place to linger and chat over a glass of wine or a whiskey from the outstanding collection.
It may not be much more than a series of wooden rafts and a few shoddily constructed shacks, but this club is one of the most beloved outdoor venues in town. The place is packed at all hours, either with clubbers on their last stop of the evening, or with locals and tourists soaking up the sunshine on a Sunday morning.
Facciola looks like a lovely little wine bar from the outside—large windows with some greenery, a red awning, a handful of Berliners sitting on the stoop. Inside, the bartenders make the environment more than cozy, though. Fresh Italian foods and snacks are available on candlelit tables, but it’s the impressive selection of Italian wines that make the place stand out—and the over-the-top-friendly bartenders. Don't miss Aperitivo Thursdays, when light Italian snacks are served with every drink.
Named after owner and head brewer Johannes Heidenpeter, this brewery has transformed its little corner of the bustling Markthalle Neun market hall into a pleasant taproom (the brewing happens just below, in the basement). Enjoy the six beers on tap here, or take them with you in hand-labeled bottles; choices typically include an IPA and a couple of seasonal ales. Open Tuesday and Thursday–Saturday only.
This club, located under the multipurpose art space Planet Modulor Aufbau Haus, has become a neighborhood hangout. DJs, live bands, flea markets, and even food events have all found a home in here. The club is a bit hard to find—look for the ramp leading down to what seems like a parking garage off Prinzenstrasse. It's next to Parker Bowles restaurant, which the club also operates.
This club may not enjoy the breathless hype of some of its brethren, but it has consistency, and perhaps staying power (it's been open since 2007—a lifetime in Berlin). Only the determined will find the place: it’s in an old factory that you reach via a courtyard off a quiet street. Three dance floors with different kinds of music allow you to pick and choose, and the club’s decor includes some Alice-in-Wonderland-like objects like a giant teapot, strangely illuminated stacked cubes, and a ceiling made of umbrellas.
If you don't find any eye candy at tiny Roses there are always the furry red walls and kitschy paraphernalia to admire. It opens at 9:30 pm and keeps going until very late (and is usually very smoky).
The elegant Watergate is a club for people who usually don't like clubbing. It sits languidly at the base of the Oberbaumbrücke, on the Kreuzberg side, and has two dance floors with bars. The terrace extending over the River Spree is one of the city's best chill-out spaces. In addition to hosting internationally renowned DJs, the club is the beautiful and intimate setting for infrequent but popular classical music nights.
Named after a 1962 surrealist film by Luis Buñuel (known as The Exterminating Angel in English), this classy joint offers an elaborate cocktail menu in a well-designed space off Kottbusser Tor. The bar's loyal fans spill out onto the streets on busy nights, and an evening tapas menu comes from the neighboring restaurant, Gorgonzola Club.
A bit rougher around the edges than most Berlin jazz clubs, Yorckschlösschen ("little York castle") has become the unofficial living room of the area's musicians and jazz aficionados. The club is plastered with posters and decorated with old instruments, and the stage isn't much more than a slightly raised platform—but some of the area's best play here. The Thursday-night jam session is free; other nights, a music charge will be added to your bill.
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