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Although much of the coast has been targeted with new construction of extraordinary ugliness, this, a modern architect's version of a Provençal fishing village, works. A true operetta set and begun only in 1966, it has grown gracefully over the years and offers hope for the pink-concrete-scarred coastal landscape. It's worth parking and wandering up the village's Venice-like canals to admire its
Old Mediterranean canal-tile roofs and pastel facades, already patinated with age. Even the church, though resolutely modern, feels Romanesque. There is, however, one modern touch some might appreciate: from March to October small electric tour boats (get them at Place du Marché) that carry you for €5 from bar to shop to restaurant throughout the complex of pretty squares and bridges.
With the Alps and pre-Alps playing bodyguard against inland winds, and the sultry Mediterranean warming the sea breezes, the eastern slice of...