Although much of the coast has been targeted with new construction of extraordinary ugliness, this modern architect's version of a Provençal fishing village works. A true operetta set and begun only in 1966, it has grown gracefully over the years and offers hope for the pink-concrete-scarred coastal landscape. It's worth parking and wandering along the village's Venice-like canals to admire its Old Mediterranean canal-tile roofs and pastel facades, already patinated with age. Even the church, though resolutely modern, feels Romanesque. There is, however, one modern touch some might appreciate: small electric tour boats (get them at Place du Marché, March–October) that carry you for €5 from bar to shop to waterfront restaurant throughout the complex of pretty squares and bridges. Market days in the square are on Thursday and Sunday.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More