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Abbaye St-Victor Review

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Abbaye St-Victor

Address: 3 rue de l'Abbaye, Rive Neuve, Marseille

Category: Religious Sites
Location: Marseille

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Fodor's Review:

Founded in the 4th century by St-Cassien, who sailed into Marseille's port full of fresh ideas on monasticism acquired in Palestine and Egypt, this abbey grew to formidable proportions. A spectacular fortified medieval church built on the remains of an ancient necropolis, its severe exterior of crenellated stone and the spare geometry of its Romanesque church would be as much at home in Middle East as its founder. The earlier church, destroyed by invading Saracens, was the city's first basilica and, with its formidable proportions, an impressive seat of religious power. It was rebuilt in the 11th century, then fortified against further attack in the 14th century. Its crudely peaked windows demonstrate the dawning transition from Romanesque arches to Gothic points; in the nave the early attempts at groin vaulting were among the first in Provence.

Chunks of the earlier church remain in what is by far the best reason to come: the crypt, St-Cassien's original, which is buried under the new church's medieval structure. In evocative nooks and crannies you'll find early medieval sarcophagi, including a 5th-century one that allegedly holds the martyr's remains. Upstairs look for the tomb of St-Victor, who was ground to death between two millstones, probably by the Romans. There's also a passage into tiny catacombs where early Christians worshipped St-Lazarus and Mary Magdalene, said to have washed ashore at Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The boat in which they landed is reproduced in canoe-shaped cookies called navettes, which are sold during the annual procession for Candelmas in February as well as year-round.

Cost: Crypt entry EUR 2
Open: Daily 8:30-6:30

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