The oldest square in Paris and—dare we say it?—the most beautiful, the Place des Vosges represents an early stab at urban planning. The precise proportions offer a placid symmetry, but things weren't always so calm here. Four centuries ago this was the site of the Palais des Tournelles, home to King Henry II and Queen Catherine de Medici. The couple staged regular jousting tournaments, and during one of them, in 1559, Henry was fatally lanced in the eye. Catherine
fled for the Louvre, abandoning her palace and ordering it destroyed. In 1612 it became the Place Royal on the occasion of Louis XIII's engagement to Anne of Austria. Napoléon renamed it Place des Vosges to honor the northeast region of Vosges, the first in the country to pony up taxes to the Revolutionary government.
At the base of the 36 redbrick-and-stone houses—nine on each side of the square—is an arcaded, covered walkway lined with art galleries, shops, and cafés. There's also an elementary school, a synagogue (whose barrel roof was designed by Gustav Eiffel), and several chic hotels. The formal, gated garden's perimeter is lined with chestnut trees; inside are a children's play area and a fountain.
Aside from hanging out in the park, people come here to see the house of the man who once lived at No. 6—Victor Hugo, the author of Les Misérables and Notre-Dame de Paris (aka The Hunchback of Notre-Dame).
One of the best things about this park is that you're actually allowed to sit—or snooze or snack—on the grass during spring and summer.
There is no better spot in the Marais for a picnic: you can pick up fixings at the nearby street market on Thursday and Saturday mornings (it's on Boulevard Richard Lenoir between Rues Amelot and St-Sabin).
The most likely approach to the Place des Vosges is from Rue de Francs Bourgeois, the main shopping street. However, for a grander entrance walk along Rue St-Antoine until you get to Rue de Birague, which leads directly into the square.
Off Rue des Francs Bourgeois, near Rue de Turenne, Paris, 75004, France
Nov 9, 2008
A lovely square on Paris's Right Bank, with attractive period architecture, covered arcades, and a modest, pleasing park-like area in the center. Definitely worth seeing.