Chef Christian Constant has an unfailing sense of how Parisians want to eat these days, as proved by the latest addition to his mini-restaurant empire near the Eiffel Tower. At Les Cocottes he's shifted the normally leisurely bistro experience into high gear, which allows him to keep prices moderate. Seated at a long counter on slightly uncomfortable stools that discourage lingering, diners can mix and match from a menu of soups, salads, cocottes (dishes served in cast-iron pots), verrines (starters presented in tapas-style glasses), and comforting desserts, all made from fresh, seasonal ingredients. Food is served nonstop from breakfast onward, but since no reservations are taken, plan on showing up outside peak times to avoid a wait.
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