Cyril Lalanne belongs to a breed of young chefs who like to cook for a privileged few. If you can nab a seat in this unremarkable yellow-and-red dining room (be sure to call ahead), you'll be rewarded with food whose attention to detail restores your faith in humanity. Foie gras makes several appearances on the chalkboard menu, since Lalanne is from southwest France, but you can also find freshly caught fish and perhaps farmer's pork from Gascony, a rarity in Paris. Lalanne
does his own variation on baba au rhum—with Armagnac, another nod to his native region—and the wine list is strong on southwestern French bottles.
70 bd. Edgar Quinet, 14e, Paris, 75014, France