La Régalade-trained chef Sylvain Danière knows just what it takes to open a wildly popular bistro: choose an obscure location, decorate it simply but cheerfully, work extremely hard, set competitive prices, and constantly reinvent your menu. The real key ingredient is talent, though, and Danière has plenty of it, as demonstrated by his winning trio of pork cheeks with lentils and foie gras. For dessert, the tart lime cream scores points, while a layered chocolate mousse with strong coffee syrup proves less successful. Locals mingle with well-informed tourists from Texas or Toulouse in the red-and-cream dining room, and you can watch the chef hard at work in his small kitchen.
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