Run by legendary bistro chef Yves Camdeborde, this tiny Art Deco hotel restaurant is booked up well in advance for the single dinner sitting featuring five courses of haute-cuisine fare. On weekdays from noon to 6 and weekends until 10, a brasserie menu is served; reservations are not accepted, resulting in long lines and brisk, sometimes shockingly rude, service. Start with charcuterie or pâté, then choose from open-faced sandwiches like a smoked-salmon-and-Comté-cheese croque monsieur, gourmet salads, and a variety of hot dishes such as braised beef cheek, roast tuna, and Camdeborde's famed deboned and breaded pig's trotter. If you don't mind bus fumes, sidewalk tables make for prime people-watching in summer. Camdeborde also runs neighboring Avant Comptoir, a minuscule stand-up zinc bar with hanging hams and sausages where you can score a superb plate of charcuterie and an inky glass of Morgon. Quality crêpes and sandwiches are still served from the window out front.