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Bastille at Night

From Place de la Bastille, take Rue de la Roquette and turn right onto Rue de Lappe, Paris's answer to Bourbon Street, once a haunt of artists and writers like Henry Miller. Today it draws a mostly young crowd to its many bars and restaurants, though there's something for everyone. Detour down the tiny Passage Louis Philippe to find Café de la Danse, one of the city's best venues to see all sorts of live music. In the early 1900s, Auvergne immigrants brought bal musette—accordion-driven popular music—with them, and many later collaborated with gypsy jazzman Django Reinhardt. One of its anchors is the Balajo dance club at No. 9 rue de Lappe, established in 1936 and still going strong. In recent years these tangled streets have added shops, theaters, and galleries to the constantly evolving bar lineup.

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