Today's Paris ...

Today's Paris ...

… is less smoky. The image of the intellectual sitting in a café, cigarette in hand, may have been as much a part of the French identity as wine and cheese, but as of 2008, that all changed. Following the lead of Spain, Italy, and Ireland, the French government banned smoking in offices and public buildings, including hotels, bars, cafés, and restaurants. For all those who smirk that the French have never been known to respect laws they don't like, this one seems to be working. There may have been a bit of grumbling, but Parisians have adapted quickly.. There's still smoke, but it's outside: the smokers have pretty much taken over the café terraces (many are enclosed and heated in winter) as their own little smoking lounges.

… is cleaner. Paris has had a bit of a brushing-up: those who haven't been to the city in a decade or two will notice that streets have been returned to their pre-1970s cobblestoned charm and are cleaner, and that the façades of landmarks have received a healthy washing down. Much of this is thanks to the city's mayor, socialist Bertrand Delanoë, elected in 2001. Parisians praise him for reducing pollution in this congested city. There are more bus, bike, and pedestrian lanes now, and he introduced the city's lighthearted ad campaigns urging residents to pick up after their dogs.

…is diverse. A steady flow of immigrants from former French colonies in African and Arab countries—as well as people from China and Russia—make up a large part of Paris's vibrant multicultural community. Yet these same populations—and their France-born children and grandchildren—are also some of the city's most disadvantaged groups, posing a problem to already overstretched social programs. With fewer resources to go around, it's no surprise that the nation's multicultural youth feel they're not getting their fair share of the Liberté, Égalité et Fraternité that the French hold so dear. The suburban riots that took place during the fall of 2005 reminded politicians that although things are improving in la capitale, racial tension still remains a serious issue. The average visitor may see little evidence of this, as even the protest marches that got out of hand outside the Sorbonne were tightly contained, but these issues are very real.

…is friendlier. One area where fraternité has evolved is with French service: although North Americans, raised on the principle that the customer is always right, may find servers and store clerks a bit curt (and not always so efficient), Paris has become friendlier than it once was. This can be chalked up to necessity, as the service industry scrambled to compete for tourism dollars after the post-9/11 slump in business. And many of Paris's waiters have discovered that happy American tourists tip better than unhappy ones—even when the 15% service fee is already included in the bill. That's not to say that service is delivered with a smile everywhere, and some visitors' perceptions of idyllic Paris are still dashed when met with huffy abruptness à la française. In 2006, reports recounted that Japanese tourists were suffering from "Paris Syndrome" and were rushed home because they were traumatized by the rudeness of those Parisians they encountered. Perhaps they would have suffered less had they not taken it so personally—a Parisian certainly wouldn't.

…is becoming more globalized. It's what the French call mondialisation, en français, and it's happening in Paris, as international chains and country-specific favorites are slowly seeping into Parisian culture. There are now 34 Starbucks in the city, including the location under the Pyramide in the Louvre. And if challenging their traditional cafés isn't enough, the Italian-owned gelato chain Amorino has opened several new Paris locations after the runaway success of their Ile St-Louis gelateria—a few feet from the famous (and French) Berthillon ice-cream shop! A fitting trend that the country's new First Lady, the Italian-born model-musician Carla Bruni, would surely approve.

What's Hot in Paris NOW

The latest trend you probably haven't heard of is supposed to be a secret, but news about the latest speakeasy-style bars and restaurants —with anonymous entrances, private-club-like atmosphere, and hidden fumoirs for smokers—is hard to keep down.Parisian ladies have begun to openly embrace the joys of female-friendly adult toys, which have recently become the rage and are more visibly available at boutiques around town as well as at Au Printemps. There's even a cheeky bimonthly magazine on the newsstands now, called S'Toys. Two historic Parisian promenades have undergone a shift in character recently. Travel agencies along the Champs-Elysées have been replaced by big-name brands such as Adidas, Lacoste, and Esprit. Nearby, shops in the Palais-Royal are transforming from vintage- and antiques-only to au courant,with the Marc Jacobs flagship store and boutiques from high-fashion designers such as Rick Owens and Jerôme l'Huillier. Green is the new gold in Paris, and what's organic (bio) and environmentally friendly is not only trendy but becoming the norm. Health-food stores are popping up everywhere, and major supermarkets carry products with certified "ethical" labels. Velib, the city's low-cost bike-rental system for short trips around town has been wholeheartedly adopted by Parisians, and visitors lucky enough to have a European credit card with the microchip necessary for payment. For EUR 5 per week or EUR 1 per day (payable by card at any of the 600 bike-rental stations), you can rent bikes for 30-minute stints, with each additional half hour costing EUR 4.