Fodor's Expert Review L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges

The late great Paul Bocuse—who kick-started nouvelle cuisine back in the 1970s and became a superstar in the process—may no longer be with us, but dishes like the legendary black-truffle soup in pastry crust he created in 1975 to honor President Giscard d'Estaing always will be. So will the frogs' leg soup with watercress; the green bean and artichoke salad with foie gras; and the "tripled" wood pigeon, consisting of a drumstick in puff pastry, a breast roasted and glazed in cognac, and a dark aromatic pâté of the innards. For a mere €330 per person, the Paul Bocuse Menu includes two of the master's most famous dishes: soup aux truffes and the volaille de Bresse truffée en vessie "Mère Fillioux" (Bresse hen cooked in a pig bladder with truffles), which comes to the table looking something like a basketball. Like the desserts, the grand dining room is done in traditional style.