Since 1983 this premier Italian restaurant has been known for its changing set menu and its huge cellar, with 90,000 bottles of Italian wine. Burnt-umber walls and black, chocolate brown, and white accents predominate in the dining room. You'll be served between nine and 17 (small) courses, depending on your appetite and time commitment. There's no à la carte menu. The tiny seafood antipasti, including octopus with homemade pasta and a touch of mascarpone cheese, fares
well opposite a later main course of St. Peter fish (tilapia); it's light and delicate in a fresh tomato sauce. This is a full, special night out; prepare to spend at least four hours dining leisurely.