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Bananas, mangoes, passion fruit, plantains, breadfruit, okra, avocados, limes, pumpkins, cucumbers, papaya, yams, christophenes (also called chayote), and coconuts are among the fresh fruits and vegetables that grace St. Lucian menus. The French influence is strong, and most chefs cook with a Creole flair. Resort buffets and restaurant fare include standards like steaks, chops, pasta, and pizza—and every menu lists fresh fish along with the ever-popular lobster.
Caribbean standards include callaloo, stuffed crab back, pepperpot stew, curried chicken or goat, and lambi (conch). The national dish of salt fish and green fig—a stew of dried, salted codfish and boiled green banana—is, let's say, an acquired taste. A runner-up in terms of local popularity is bouyon, a cooked-all-day soup or stew that combines meat (usually pig tail), "provisions" (root vegetables), pigeon peas, dumplings, broth, and local spices. Soups and stews are traditionally prepared in a coal pot—unique to St. Lucia—a rustic clay casserole on a matching clay stand that holds the hot coals.
Chicken and pork dishes and barbecues are also popular here. Fresh lobster is available in season, which lasts from August through February. As they do throughout the Caribbean, local vendors set up barbecue grills along the roadside, at street fairs, and at Friday-night "jump-ups" and do a bang-up business selling grilled fish or chicken legs, bakes (fried biscuits), and beer—you can get a full meal for less than $10. Most other meats are imported—beef from Argentina and Iowa, lamb from New Zealand. Piton is the local brew; Bounty, the local rum.
Guests at St. Lucia's many popular all-inclusive resorts take most meals at hotel restaurants—which are generally quite good and, in some cases, exceptional—but it's fun when vacationing to try some of the local restaurants, as well—for lunch when sightseeing or for a special night out.
What to Wear: Dress on St. Lucia is casual but conservative. Shorts are usually fine during the day, but bathing suits and immodest clothing are frowned upon anywhere but at the beach. Nude or topless sunbathing is prohibited. In the evening the mood is casually elegant, but even the fanciest places generally expect only a collared shirt and long pants for men and a sundress or slacks for women.
If gut health has been on your mind don't miss It's Alive, St. Lucia's first and only vegan bakery and fermentary. Everything is made and fermented in-house, from the sourdough bread that holds together the BBQ tempeh and ginger sauerkraut of the bursting-with-flavor Biome sandwich, to the coconut yogurt, bottles of komboucha, and sourdough cookies. Seating is limited to a single outdoor picnic table, but it's a great option for a grab-and-go lunch.
As you're traveling south to Soufrière, watch for this tiny bakery in Anse La Verdure, a blink-and-you'll-miss-it spot on the West Coast Road between Anse La Raye and Canaries. Cinnamon, cherries, raisins, coconut, and other flavorings are added, then the dough—13 varieties in all—is formed into small buns, placed on banana leaves, and baked over hot coals. Plas Kassav (Creole for "Cassava Place") began as a small family bakery in 1998 and has grown into a popular local enterprise simply by word of mouth. There is a small sign, but taxi drivers all know where it is and will not hesitate to stop so you can try a warm mouthwatering treat that is a staple of St. Lucia's traditional cuisine. If you're there early enough, you can see the cassava roots being grated and processed into flour using traditional methods, as well as the cassava bread dough being mixed in huge copper caldrons.
The Corner boasts the best coffee in St. Lucia and is a great place to grab a latte or pastry and browse the elegant adjoining boutique. For something a bit more substantial, take a seat on the covered patio for all-day breakfast or Middle-Eastern-style tapas. Gluten-free and vegan dishes are often available, and the desserts are a worthwhile treat.
Situate yourself at a table under a shady tree for breakfast, a casual beachside lunch, or just chill with drinks and snacks. The café is part of The Reef complex, which includes four tiny rooms for overnight stays and a popular kitesurfing and windsurfing venue.
Stop in for a chat and a cup of coffee—and, of course, Zaka's rather brilliant artwork. In his studio, artist and craftsman Simon "Zaka" Gajhadhar (and his team of local artists and woodcarvers) fashion totems and masks from driftwood, branches, and other environmentally friendly wood sources—taking advantage of the natural nibs and knots that distinguish each piece. Once the "face" is carved, it is painted in vivid colors to highlight the exaggerated features and provide expression. Zaka also offers hand-carved and painted fish and sea creatures.
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