Dine at an altitude cool enough to demand a throw blanket and warm enough to inspire after-dinner conversation. First, try a strong rum punch while lounging in a hot mineral bath in the Papillote Wilderness Retreat gardens. The menu has expanded but still offers the bracing callaloo soup, dasheen puffs, fish "rain forest" (marinated with papaya and wrapped in banana leaves), or other creole-style delicacies. This handsome Caribbean restaurant has quite possibly one of
the best views in the region.