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From curbside feasts on Lilliputian plastic chairs to superb fine dining, Hanoi’s restaurant scene has something for everyone. Locals are fiercely proud of their street food culture and this is where the essence of Hanoi’s food scene can be discovered. Signature northern dishes include bun cha (vermicelli with minced pork burgers), banh cuon (steamed rice rolls stuffed with minced pork, mushrooms, and shallots), and the ubiquitous pho, Vietnam’s nominal national dish, which comes in chicken and beef varieties. These classics represent just a tantalizing taste of what is on offer in the city. And with a seemingly endless array of vendors slaving over hot grills, simmering alchemy in large pots, or doling out pillow-soft steamed buns from a ramshackle cart, opportunities to eat like a local are limitless. In the past, Hanoi’s restaurant sector has suffered in comparison to its Kingly Street dining scene. That has changed significantly over the past decade or so. There is now an eclectic selection of interesting (and often excellent) eating spots that run the gamut from simple French bistros and laid-back cafés to opulent venues for multicourse blowouts and cutting-edge options that would not be out of place in the world’s major gastronomic hubs.
Bancong means "balcony" in Vietnamese (from the French balcon), and this multistory 1940s art deco mansion has plenty of them. The outdoor spaces overflow with flowers and pot plants, and make good spots to watch scenes of the Old Quarter unfold below. The menu is rather muddled, but the Vietnamese dishes, from bun cha to bun bo nam bo, are reliably good. So is the ca phe cot dua (iced coconut coffee), a Hanoi specialty.
Now gracing a French-style villa in West Lake (the restaurant used to be next to the Temple of Literature), this place can get packed with tour groups. The flavors here—from baked fish in banana leaf to bamboo beef—are bold and brilliant, and the menu is a mix of creative dishes. The fact that Koto (an acronym for "know one, teach one") is a charity restaurant that benefits street youth, is just the icing on the lemon cheesecake.
This beautiful bohemian villa serves up excellent food and an impressive farm-to-table ethos. They own two farms, one in Sapa and one in Soc Son, so all produce is carefully grown and selected. Vegetarian options abound, from goat cheese omelettes to vegan burgers, and the menu changes regularly to stay seasonal. Try one of their specialty coffee blends or a chai tea charger as you take in the views of the park opposite.
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