What's a Vegetarian to Do?

Tokyo has had a reputation for being a difficult place for vegetarians, but in recent years more and more Japanese are opting to go vegetarian causing the number of truly vegetarian and vegetarian-friendly restaurants to rise. The city's numerous Indian eateries are a safe bet, as are the handful of restaurants (such as Sasa-no-yuki) that specialize in shojin ryori. This traditional Zen vegetarian food emphasizes natural flavors and fresh ingredients without using heavy spices or rich sauces. The variety and visual beauty of a full-course shojin ryori meal offers new dining dimensions to the vegetarian gourmet. Goma-dofu, or sesame-flavored bean curd, for example, is a tasty treat, as is nasu-dengaku, grilled eggplant covered with a sweet miso sauce.

Take note that a dish may be described as meat-free even if it contains fish, shrimp, or chicken. And one should assume that salads, pastas, and soups in non-vegetarian restaurants are garnished with ham or bacon.

At Itosho ($$$$), a Zen restaurant, food arrives in a procession of 13 tiny dishes, each selected according to season, texture, and color. Dinner costs between ¥8,400 and ¥10,500, and reservations must be made at least two days in advance. 3-4-7 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku, 106-0045. 03/3454-6538. No credit cards. Subway: Namboku and Oedo subway lines, Azabu-Juban Station (Exit 1).

Tucked inside a Neal's Yard Remedies store, Brown Rice Café ($$$) has just 10 tables and closes by 9 pm. But, if you're shopping in Harajuku, it's a great place to stop for a tempeh burger or stuffed tofu pouch. In good weather, try the outdoor patio. 5-1-17 Jingu-mae, Shibuya-ku, 150-0001. 03/5778-5416. www.brown.co.jp. No credit cards. Subway: Ginza and Hanzo-mon subway lines, Omotesando Station (Exit A1).

On a back street in the upscale fashion hub of Omotesando, Pure Café ($$$) has a daily changing menu of nutritious fare. There's organic coffee and granola for breakfast, filling sandwich plates for lunch, and à la carte dinner. 5-5-21 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, 107-0062. 03/5466-2611. No credit cards. Subway: Ginza and Hanzo-mon subway lines, Omotesando Station (Exit B3).

M Café de Chaya ($$$), a macrobiotic café and deli, features a wide variety of foods, all of which contain no meat, eggs, dairy products, refined sugars, or artificial additives. There's a Californian influence in the cuisine, so expect a lot of wraps and veggie burgers. On a nice day, enjoy the outdoor seating. 1-3-37 Roppongi, Minato-ku, 106-0032. 03/3505-6225. No credit cards.

A short walk from the trendy neighborhood of Naka-Meguro, Café 8 ($$$) serves an inventive fusion of Eastern and Western cuisines. The menu changes often, but might include spring rolls, nutritious curries and soups, or couscous salads. 3-17-7 Aobadai, Meguro-ku, 153-0042. 03/5458-5262. Subway: Denentoshi subway and private rail lines, Ikejiri-Ohashi Station.

If you plan on staying in town long term, check out Alishan (www.alishan-organic-center.com), a vegetarian mail-order specialist that delivers local and imported flesh-free food.