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Kitano Tenman-gu Review

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Kitano Tenman-gu

  • Address: Imakoji-agaru, Onmae-dori, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto

Fodor's Review:

This shrine was originally dedicated to Tenjin, and emissaries were often sent here with offerings to appease this god of thunder. Then in the 10th century the nobility of Japan suffered various inexplicable calamities. Emperor Daigo had a dream that seemed to account for the misfortune: the spirit of noted poet and politician Michizane would not rest until he had been pardoned. For political reasons, when Emperor Daigo ascended to the throne, Michizane was accused of treason and sent into exile on Kyushu, where he died. Because the dream identified Michizane with the god of thunder, Emperor Daigo decreed that Kitano Tenman-gu would be rededicated to the poet-politician. On top of that, Michizane's political rank was posthumously restored. When that was not enough, he was promoted to a higher position and later to prime minister.

The shrine's present structure dates from 1607. The main sanctuary is a complex mix of Buddhist and Shinto architecture; note the unusual irimoya-style roof, which has layered peaks that are typical of the ornate Momoyama period. A large market is held on the grounds on the 25th of each month. Stalls at the market sell food, antiques, old kimonos, and other collectibles. It's worth taking a detour one block east of the shrine to see the seven old ochaya, or teahouses, of Kamishichiken, the geisha district that predates Gion. Take either Bus 100 or 50 from Kyoto Station and get off at Kitano Tenman-gu-mae. The ride takes a little more than a half hour.

  • Cost: Shrine free; plum garden ¥500, including green tea
  • Open: Shrine Apr.–Oct., daily 5–5; Nov.–Mar, daily 5:30–5:30. Plum garden Feb.–Mar., daily 10–4

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