Japan's northernmost point is windy and empty. In the short summer season, tiny alpine flowers bloom in coastal grasslands and on rocky outcrops overlooking the sea. In winter, little happens as people batten down the hatches. Come here only when you've already seen Daisetsu and Shiretoko. Visitors journey here for the hiking, flowers, bragging rights of having seen Japan’s northernmost extremity, and the solitude found in such edge-of-the-world places.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More