The arrival of Din Tai Fung—one of Taipei's most famous restaurants—was warmly welcomed by Beijing's food fanatics. The restaurant's specialty is xiaolong bao (juicy buns wrapped in a light unleavened-dough skin and cooked in a bamboo steamer), which are served with slivers of tender ginger in a light black vinegar. Xiaolong bao have three different fillings: ground pork, seafood, or crabmeat. If you can, leave some room for the scrumptious tiny dumplings packed with red-bean paste. This restaurant is frequented by both Beijing's up-and-coming middle class and old Taiwan hands, who are fervently loyal to its delicate morsels.
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