The village of Coffee Bay is a bit run-down, but the beaches and the scenery are great. (The surf is fantastic, but don't head out alone if you don't know what you're doing.)
You can do a fabulous 37-km (23-mile) hike from Coffee Bay to Bulungula (or vice versa) via Hole-in-the-Wall, across the cliff tops, and along the beach. It's best to take a guide, who can cut about two or three hours from the journey by taking a shortcut through rolling hills dotted with thatched huts. Arrange for a guide through Bulungula Lodge, where you should plan to overnight at the end of your hike; the lodge can transport your luggage while you walk. The cost for the guide and luggage transfer is R70 (R50 going from Bulungula to Coffee Bay).