A great way to get your bearings in Jerusalem is to absorb the panorama from the Haas Promenade, an attractive 1-km ( 2/3-mi) promenade ("tayelet" in Hebrew) along one of the city's highest ridges. Hidden behind a grove of trees to the east (your right as you pan the view) is a turreted limestone building, the residence of the British High Commissioner for Palestine in the 1930s and '40s. In Hebrew, the whole ridge is known as Armon Hanatziv, the Commissioner's Palace. The building became the headquarters of the U.N. Truce Supervision Organization (UNTSO), specially formed to monitor the 1949 armistice line that divided the city. It remained a neutral enclave between Israeli West Jerusalem and Jordanian-controlled East Jerusalem until the reunification of the city in the Six-Day War of 1967. West Jerusalem is off to your left, its downtown area easily distinguishable by the high-rises. The walls of the Old City and the golden Dome of the Rock are directly in front of you. To the right of it is the ridge of Mt. Scopus-Mt. of Olives, with its three towers (from left to right, Hebrew University, Augusta Victoria Hospital, and Russian Church of the Ascension), separated from the Old City by the deep Kidron Valley. Between that valley and the shallow Cheesemakers' Valley to the west of it (now just an asphalt road) is a blade-shape strip of land – the City of David – which was the nucleus of ancient Jerusalem four or even five thousand years ago. You can reach the promenade from Hebron Road: consult a map, and look for signs to East Talpiot and the Haas Promenade.
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