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Jerusalem’s dining scene is smaller and more modest than Tel Aviv's, but is steeped in 4,000 years of culinary traditions. Among Jewish residents, more than a century of immigration has infused the local fare with the best of Kurdish, Moroccan, French, Polish, Yemenite, and Italian flavors. On the Palestinian side, most restaura
Jerusalem’s dining scene is smaller and more modest than Tel Aviv's, but is steeped in 4,000 years of culinary traditions. Among Jewish residents, more than a century of immigration has infused the local fare with the best of Kurdish, Moroccan, French, Polish, Yemenite,
Jerusalem’s dining scene is smaller and more modest than Tel Aviv's, but is steeped in 4,000 years of culinary tradition
Jerusalem’s dining scene is smaller and more modest than Tel Aviv's, but is steeped in 4,000 years of culinary traditions. Among Jewish residents, more than a century of immigration has infused the local fare with the best of Kurdish, Moroccan, French, Polish, Yemenite, and Italian flavors. On the Palestinian side, most restaurants rely on a rich heritage of family cooking. On both sides, an elite class of chefs has begun combining the best of local ingredients with advanced cooking techniques and imaginative serving styles.
All this is to say that when you’re in Jerusalem you can enjoy the best of both worlds: hole-in-the-wall eateries brimming with aromatic stews and garlicky hummus or high-end dining rooms serving inspired and elegant riffs on the city’s flavors and produce.
Some cuisine designations are self-explanatory, but other terms may be confusing. A restaurant billing itself as "dairy" will serve meals without meat; many such places do serve fish, in addition to pasta, soup, and salads. "Oriental" usually means Middle Eastern (in contrast to Western), often meaning hummus, kebabs, and stews.
The term kosher doesn’t imply a particular style of cooking, only that the cooks followed Jewish dietary law in selecting and preparing the food. In Jerusalem, where there are many kosher standards from which to choose, the selection can be dizzying. But unless specific kosher standards govern your eating habits, don't worry. Jerusalem is home to dozens of kosher restaurants preparing excellent food. Remember that most kosher restaurants are closed for Friday dinner and Saturday lunch in observation of the Jewish Sabbath. A generous handful of nonkosher cafés, bars, and restaurants remain open all weekend.
Dress codes are pretty much nonexistent in Jerusalem's restaurants (as in the rest of Israel). People tend to dress casually—jeans are perfectly appropriate almost everywhere anytime. A modicum of neatness and modesty (trousers instead of jeans, a button-down shirt instead of a T-shirt) might be expected in the more exclusive establishments. In conservative neighborhoods, women will feel more comfortable covered up. If you brought the kids, you're in luck: nearly every Israeli restaurant is kid-friendly, and many have special menus and high chairs.
One of the city's few restaurants to flout Passover restrictions on eating leavened dough, this popular haunt has been baking fluffy focaccias for over 20 years. There are many toppings (don't miss the black-olive spread), and some tasty starters (try the mushrooms stuffed with goat cheese or the fried calamari). The chicken livers stir-fried with shallots and fried onions are delicious. There are generous sandwich options, including the sirloin strips. Reserve a table on weekends when families fill the rustic restaurant where most of the seating is in the enclosed outdoor area.
This kosher cousin of the popular Downtown restaurant welcomes you with a large display of fresh vegetables and an open taboon oven where the focaccias are baked. The inventive menu offers eight different focaccias, including an excellent roast beef variety. For starters, try the Peruvian-style chicken strips blanched with mint and seasoned with lime and cilantro, or the beef carpaccio with arugula. Other good choices include the veal bruschetta served with rib-eye skewers, sweetbreads, and grilled portobello mushrooms; or the fish fillet baked with a crust of panko bread crumbs. The menu has several vegetarian options as well.
Grab a seat at the bar and sip a Peroni while you watch the young, friendly staff roll out extra-thin pizza dough in this narrow temple to Italian fast food. Toppings are tasty combinations of cheese, vegetables, and meats. If you'd rather enjoy pasta, the cooks will crank out fresh fettuccine on the countertop. There's an abundant supply of red and white wine, and seating is cozy but friendly in this intimate restaurant.
Inside an atmospheric old building, this kosher Italian restaurant has stone walls, graceful arches, and a sunny courtyard. For a main course, try the pappardelle cooked with flavorful wild mushrooms, or the earthy beet gnocchi served in a cashew cream sauce; whole-wheat and gluten-free pastas are available. The house salad, made with seasonal fruit and drizzled with a mustard-orange dressing, is delicious. After dinner, take a sip of the hot chocolate, dark chocolate, and whiskey topped with whipped cream and served in a shot glass. The wine list includes foreign and local choices.
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