Abu Ali
Although this is a great place to sample ful (a hearty, flavorful stew of mashed fava beans) and ta'amiya (Egyptian-style felafel), save room for baba ghanoush (stewed eggplant with tomatoes and tahini) and the mashi (stuffed grape leaves, zucchini, and baby eggplant). This location, which has a large dining room, is only a few blocks from all the action of the Old Market, so there's always a taxi (or Blue Bus) nearby to get you back to your hotel. The Hay Lel Nour location is a bit farther out, but it's in a non-touristy neighborhood, giving you the opportunity to experience everyday Egyptian life as well as traditional Egyptian food.