Trip Report-Manuel Antonio, San Jose, Arenal and Playa Hermosa
Jun 8th, 2008, 06:44 AM
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Trip Report-Manuel Antonio, San Jose, Arenal and Playa Hermosa
A month after I made it back from my 3 week trip to CR, I finally have some time to share some of the highlights. I was in Costa Rica from 4/21 to 5/12 so my trip started off into high season and flowed into the low season. I must say that from now on I will try to make my trips to Costa Rica in early May because the crowds have left, the prices are down but the rain hasn’t really gotten started yet. Thanks to everyone who posts on Fodor’s for your helpful trip reports!
Hotels:
Mango Moon in Manuel Antonio-This was a nice midpoint hotel in Manuel Antonio at $250 for two bedrooms and 4 people. I found hotels in this area to be the most expensive in the country due in part to the fact that it is an extremely popular area (and rightly so). Pros: The staff at the front desk was the best! They were always helpful and never ever had an attitude. When we left we felt like we were leaving our friends! The breakfast was excellent too. Every morning they had typical Tico breakfast (Gallo pinto, eggs, plantains, tortillas) as well as an American breakfast choice for those who go on vacation to eat all the same things that they do at home. You don’t need a car; the bus is inexpensive and fairly regular. Monkeys outside of your room in the morning!
Cons: If you don’t have a car, the walk up the hill to catch the bus to the beach is not for the faint of heart; we did it everyday but we are all in reasonably good shape and exercise often. The bed is therapeutic (read hard!).
Courtyard in Escazu-This is now my favorite hotel in San Jose because it is really nice and conveniently located. After the bed in Manuel Antonio, I was overjoyed to plunge into this bed.
Pros: Comfy beds, Laundry room, complementary coffee all day. Adjacent plaza has many food choices, a bank and a Nail Salon.
Cons: To leave the hotel and go anywhere in San Jose is going to run you $15-$20 for a cab ride. I was initially outraged by that but then I understood that it was due to the fact that these drivers were stationed there all day at our beck and call. Without exception, every driver was extremely nice and overly helpful.
Marriott in Belen-This is probably one of the nicest hotels in Costa Rica. It is truly luxurious and has the feel of a hacienda. I would have gotten married there if I led that sort of lifestyle.
Pros: Marriott bed and bath products. Excellent breakfast buffet and US style coffee shop. Beautiful Pools and Jacuzzi. Wonderful staff.
Cons: Marriott US prices for everything. You will need a car or $$$ for cabs because there is nothing nearby…not even a convenience store.
El Silencio Del Campo in La Fortuna-This had to be my favorite hotel in CR because you got so much for the money. I should also point out that it was the only hotel that was owned by Costa Ricans. At $95 per night, it was totally reasonably and nice.
Pros: Beautiful cabin with tile floors and a really spacious bathroom and a balcony! Complementary drinks upon checking in. Excellent breakfast included in your room rate. 2 beautiful pools on property. Breathtaking view of the volcano.
Cons: I could not think of one solitary thing and I am a hotel snob!
Hotel La Finisterra-Playa Hermosa Guanacaste- This was a tough one to find because the review on mid range hotels in Guanacaste were so inconsistent.
Pros: the view of the Pacific Ocean from breakfast cannot be beat. Excellent restaurant and nice staff. The owners are funny and pretty interesting people. Picture window in room.
Cons: The view is afforded to you thanks to a step drive up a hill; I walked up the hill one day just for my own knowledge and it was truly difficult…I had to stop and catch my breath several times. The room is Spartan, there is no TV and the bathroom is really due for an upgrade, it reminded me of a hostel. To their credit, the owners recognize that the rooms do need some redecoration. I left a dress that I really love there, I wrote them about it and nobody responded…I guess the hospitality ends the minute you leave.
Transportation: We chartered a taxi to Manuel Antonio from the Airport which came up to $120 including gratuity for 4 people. On the way back from Manuel Antonio we took the public bus which was like $5 per person and very comfortable. In San Jose we used cabs because driving there is just too scary with the lack of signs and rotundas. We took Grayling Tours to La Fortuna which cost $33 per person…the driver was driving way faster that I would have liked through those curves but we made it there safely. We also rented a car from Alamo to drive from La Fortuna to Guanacaste and back to San Jose. You really need a car in Guanacaste because everything is far and they just don’t have a lot of cabs. The good thing is that the rounds are in fairly good conditions and the maps work well in this area. We paid $50 per day for a corolla including the $25 daily insurance car.
Tours: I highly recommend the Highlights tour by “Green tours” company in San Jose. It goes to a coffee plantation, Volcan Poas, the Peace Gardens and Rio Sarapiqui. It was a lot of fun and the food for breakfast and lunch was excellent. In La Fortuna I took the Sunset tours trip to Cano Negro which is a good one for the person who wants to see nature but not be completely away from every thing.
Beaches: The Manuel Antonio Beaches inside the park were my favorites during this trip. Those 2 beaches are definitely worth the $7 national park admission. They are clean and the water was calm. Playa Flamingo in Guanacaste was beautiful although the water was rough. We were forced to leave this beach early though because there was a guy taking pictures of women on the beach on not a cop in sight to stop him. Playa Tamarindo was also rough and the beach itself was not that nice but it was a cool beach town with lots of shops and food places. We still enjoyed sitting out in the sun there. Playa Hermosa was my favorite in Guanacaste because the water was calm and on the far end of the beach you could walk pretty far into the water and see fishes. The beaches in Costa Rica are not like the USVI or the BVI in that they do not have truly white sand but I love the scenery and the lushness of the beach.
Food: While in Costa Rica, I tried to stick to local food in sodas and small restaurants whenever possible. I know a lot of people do not like Costa Rican food because it is not as seasoned as food elsewhere in Latin America but I love it. The casados, gallo pinto, fruit juices and produce made for excellent fare. We also indulged in Galletas Chicky and Rompope to our heart’s contentment. In San Jose my favorite low budget food place was Soda Tapia. There is one near Parque La Sabana and one in Escazu. I also enjoyed La Guagua in Escazu (good Cuban food with American Prices) and El Grano de Oro was a wonderful culinary experience. The food and the décor were top notch…I could not afford that meal in the US at all! The Grano de Oro is in one of San Jose’s older neighborhoods…please don’t be a scary cat because it is not Americanized enough over there and go…you will not regret it. In Guanacaste I honestly did not find much Costa Rican food because most of the beach areas are owned by foreigners. Without exception everything was priced as it would be in the US so I was sorely disappointed. The dinner at our hotel, La Finisterra was excellent and that will go down as the best Lemon Meringue pie I have ever had in life. I also went to Ginger and I didn’t understand the hype. Yes the place is nice but Asian fusion food just didn’t do it for me in Costa Rica. In Manuel Antonio, the breakfast at my hotel left me full most days but we did manage to have two nice and memorable dinners. We took the cab ride to Quepos one night ($5 each way) to dine at a local soda right across the street from the bus station. The casado was excellent as well as the whole red snapper. The meal came up to $5 per person...you can’t beat it with a stick! On our last night there, we went to Salsipuedes which is basically a Tapas Bar. The Food was great and their mixed drinks were also excellent. I especially enjoyed the Guaro sour (ask them to put extra guaro if you like your drinks strong). For 4 women eating multiple rounds of tapas and at least 3 rounds of drinks it came up to $25 pp including gratuity.
A word on Thermal Waters- I went to both Tabacon and Eco Thermales on this visit and for me is hands down Eco Thermales. The Eco Thermales was smaller and had a more exclusive feel. The food was excellent and the place felt so special at night. Tabacon was bigger and fancier but for my money I felt like the Food wasn’t that good and the drinks were over-priced.
Hotels:
Mango Moon in Manuel Antonio-This was a nice midpoint hotel in Manuel Antonio at $250 for two bedrooms and 4 people. I found hotels in this area to be the most expensive in the country due in part to the fact that it is an extremely popular area (and rightly so). Pros: The staff at the front desk was the best! They were always helpful and never ever had an attitude. When we left we felt like we were leaving our friends! The breakfast was excellent too. Every morning they had typical Tico breakfast (Gallo pinto, eggs, plantains, tortillas) as well as an American breakfast choice for those who go on vacation to eat all the same things that they do at home. You don’t need a car; the bus is inexpensive and fairly regular. Monkeys outside of your room in the morning!
Cons: If you don’t have a car, the walk up the hill to catch the bus to the beach is not for the faint of heart; we did it everyday but we are all in reasonably good shape and exercise often. The bed is therapeutic (read hard!).
Courtyard in Escazu-This is now my favorite hotel in San Jose because it is really nice and conveniently located. After the bed in Manuel Antonio, I was overjoyed to plunge into this bed.
Pros: Comfy beds, Laundry room, complementary coffee all day. Adjacent plaza has many food choices, a bank and a Nail Salon.
Cons: To leave the hotel and go anywhere in San Jose is going to run you $15-$20 for a cab ride. I was initially outraged by that but then I understood that it was due to the fact that these drivers were stationed there all day at our beck and call. Without exception, every driver was extremely nice and overly helpful.
Marriott in Belen-This is probably one of the nicest hotels in Costa Rica. It is truly luxurious and has the feel of a hacienda. I would have gotten married there if I led that sort of lifestyle.
Pros: Marriott bed and bath products. Excellent breakfast buffet and US style coffee shop. Beautiful Pools and Jacuzzi. Wonderful staff.
Cons: Marriott US prices for everything. You will need a car or $$$ for cabs because there is nothing nearby…not even a convenience store.
El Silencio Del Campo in La Fortuna-This had to be my favorite hotel in CR because you got so much for the money. I should also point out that it was the only hotel that was owned by Costa Ricans. At $95 per night, it was totally reasonably and nice.
Pros: Beautiful cabin with tile floors and a really spacious bathroom and a balcony! Complementary drinks upon checking in. Excellent breakfast included in your room rate. 2 beautiful pools on property. Breathtaking view of the volcano.
Cons: I could not think of one solitary thing and I am a hotel snob!
Hotel La Finisterra-Playa Hermosa Guanacaste- This was a tough one to find because the review on mid range hotels in Guanacaste were so inconsistent.
Pros: the view of the Pacific Ocean from breakfast cannot be beat. Excellent restaurant and nice staff. The owners are funny and pretty interesting people. Picture window in room.
Cons: The view is afforded to you thanks to a step drive up a hill; I walked up the hill one day just for my own knowledge and it was truly difficult…I had to stop and catch my breath several times. The room is Spartan, there is no TV and the bathroom is really due for an upgrade, it reminded me of a hostel. To their credit, the owners recognize that the rooms do need some redecoration. I left a dress that I really love there, I wrote them about it and nobody responded…I guess the hospitality ends the minute you leave.
Transportation: We chartered a taxi to Manuel Antonio from the Airport which came up to $120 including gratuity for 4 people. On the way back from Manuel Antonio we took the public bus which was like $5 per person and very comfortable. In San Jose we used cabs because driving there is just too scary with the lack of signs and rotundas. We took Grayling Tours to La Fortuna which cost $33 per person…the driver was driving way faster that I would have liked through those curves but we made it there safely. We also rented a car from Alamo to drive from La Fortuna to Guanacaste and back to San Jose. You really need a car in Guanacaste because everything is far and they just don’t have a lot of cabs. The good thing is that the rounds are in fairly good conditions and the maps work well in this area. We paid $50 per day for a corolla including the $25 daily insurance car.
Tours: I highly recommend the Highlights tour by “Green tours” company in San Jose. It goes to a coffee plantation, Volcan Poas, the Peace Gardens and Rio Sarapiqui. It was a lot of fun and the food for breakfast and lunch was excellent. In La Fortuna I took the Sunset tours trip to Cano Negro which is a good one for the person who wants to see nature but not be completely away from every thing.
Beaches: The Manuel Antonio Beaches inside the park were my favorites during this trip. Those 2 beaches are definitely worth the $7 national park admission. They are clean and the water was calm. Playa Flamingo in Guanacaste was beautiful although the water was rough. We were forced to leave this beach early though because there was a guy taking pictures of women on the beach on not a cop in sight to stop him. Playa Tamarindo was also rough and the beach itself was not that nice but it was a cool beach town with lots of shops and food places. We still enjoyed sitting out in the sun there. Playa Hermosa was my favorite in Guanacaste because the water was calm and on the far end of the beach you could walk pretty far into the water and see fishes. The beaches in Costa Rica are not like the USVI or the BVI in that they do not have truly white sand but I love the scenery and the lushness of the beach.
Food: While in Costa Rica, I tried to stick to local food in sodas and small restaurants whenever possible. I know a lot of people do not like Costa Rican food because it is not as seasoned as food elsewhere in Latin America but I love it. The casados, gallo pinto, fruit juices and produce made for excellent fare. We also indulged in Galletas Chicky and Rompope to our heart’s contentment. In San Jose my favorite low budget food place was Soda Tapia. There is one near Parque La Sabana and one in Escazu. I also enjoyed La Guagua in Escazu (good Cuban food with American Prices) and El Grano de Oro was a wonderful culinary experience. The food and the décor were top notch…I could not afford that meal in the US at all! The Grano de Oro is in one of San Jose’s older neighborhoods…please don’t be a scary cat because it is not Americanized enough over there and go…you will not regret it. In Guanacaste I honestly did not find much Costa Rican food because most of the beach areas are owned by foreigners. Without exception everything was priced as it would be in the US so I was sorely disappointed. The dinner at our hotel, La Finisterra was excellent and that will go down as the best Lemon Meringue pie I have ever had in life. I also went to Ginger and I didn’t understand the hype. Yes the place is nice but Asian fusion food just didn’t do it for me in Costa Rica. In Manuel Antonio, the breakfast at my hotel left me full most days but we did manage to have two nice and memorable dinners. We took the cab ride to Quepos one night ($5 each way) to dine at a local soda right across the street from the bus station. The casado was excellent as well as the whole red snapper. The meal came up to $5 per person...you can’t beat it with a stick! On our last night there, we went to Salsipuedes which is basically a Tapas Bar. The Food was great and their mixed drinks were also excellent. I especially enjoyed the Guaro sour (ask them to put extra guaro if you like your drinks strong). For 4 women eating multiple rounds of tapas and at least 3 rounds of drinks it came up to $25 pp including gratuity.
A word on Thermal Waters- I went to both Tabacon and Eco Thermales on this visit and for me is hands down Eco Thermales. The Eco Thermales was smaller and had a more exclusive feel. The food was excellent and the place felt so special at night. Tabacon was bigger and fancier but for my money I felt like the Food wasn’t that good and the drinks were over-priced.
Jun 8th, 2008, 07:06 AM
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NJdiva,
Thanks for the excellent report. Its so well written and well organized and very balanced with lots of good details and insight.
I agree with you fully that May is a great time to go. We pretty much always go in the green Season. We were there this year from the end of April to mid May and also commented how nice the weather was and how uncrowded. But I guess, what a difference a week makes because soon after, Tropical Storm Alma hit. So i guess you never can tell.
yes, the Highlights Tour is a good option for people who want to get a good taste of various aspects of Costa Rica in one shot. Several companies offer the same.
I am glad that your experience on the MA-SJO public bus was good. We are "bus people" ourselves so usually take it. I often recommend that MA San Jose is a great leg to try the local buses.
Pura Vida
raquel
Thanks for the excellent report. Its so well written and well organized and very balanced with lots of good details and insight.
I agree with you fully that May is a great time to go. We pretty much always go in the green Season. We were there this year from the end of April to mid May and also commented how nice the weather was and how uncrowded. But I guess, what a difference a week makes because soon after, Tropical Storm Alma hit. So i guess you never can tell.
yes, the Highlights Tour is a good option for people who want to get a good taste of various aspects of Costa Rica in one shot. Several companies offer the same.
I am glad that your experience on the MA-SJO public bus was good. We are "bus people" ourselves so usually take it. I often recommend that MA San Jose is a great leg to try the local buses.
Pura Vida
raquel
Jun 8th, 2008, 06:44 PM
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Joeshmo,
galletas chiky are cookies covered with either choclate, vanilla or strawberry that you buy in packages at the supermarket. They are great!! I saw this time they had chiky Blak - which were chocolate cookies with chocolate coating Actually at one time I prefered Yupis - which are chocolate covered layered filled wafer cookies. Each one is almost like a chocolate bar.
http://www.pozuelo.com/galletas_con_cobertura.htm
Costa Rica has great junk food!!!
raquel
galletas chiky are cookies covered with either choclate, vanilla or strawberry that you buy in packages at the supermarket. They are great!! I saw this time they had chiky Blak - which were chocolate cookies with chocolate coating Actually at one time I prefered Yupis - which are chocolate covered layered filled wafer cookies. Each one is almost like a chocolate bar.
http://www.pozuelo.com/galletas_con_cobertura.htm
Costa Rica has great junk food!!!
raquel
Jun 8th, 2008, 07:08 PM
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Thanks for posting! May has always been my favourite too. Less crowds, better rates and just a little rain. Agree too the Marriott Courtyard in Escazu has great beds - was a last minute decision to stay there but it was nice.
How is that hotel next to El Silencio coming along? Almost done? Does it block anything?
How is that hotel next to El Silencio coming along? Almost done? Does it block anything?
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