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Warning: Do NOT Go to Kauai’s North Shore …

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Warning: Do NOT Go to Kauai’s North Shore …

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Old Feb 9th, 2011, 05:21 PM
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Warning: Do NOT Go to Kauai’s North Shore …

Unless you want to experience the most beautiful place on earth! HEHEHE!

I’m back from 3-1/2 weeks of utter bliss. I’ve spent six months on the Garden Island over the past four years—qualifying me as a bona fide Kauai addict—so this is not your typical “gotta-run-around-and-see-everything” report. But hopefully, it will help some of you.

I left snowy, gray Nashville January 12th with a bit of trepidation because the 10-day Kauai weather report called for rain and clouds. Oh, well … there’s nothing you can do about the weather, so I braced myself. This wasn’t a real vacation anyway; I’m a writer and was working on a deadline, so the plan was to do lots of work—but at least, be doing it in paradise.

GETTING THERE & BACK:

I flew American using 37,500 frequent flyer miles for the RT. I booked the flight several months in advance and had no trouble using my miles. But it was only a few days before my departure when the schedule I most preferred became available—and I jumped on it. The flight was cramped and crowded, but it arrived 30 minutes early.

For the flights back, the day before my return home, my preferred flights became available at an additional 20,000 miles for First Class. I grabbed it and was glad I did—because I was able to sleep for five hours, making the trip home seem like a breeze—and helping with the jet lag, too. FYI, I’d checked the website twice a day for a month or more before it opened up!

RENTAL CAR:

I’d rented a car through Priceline and the agency was National. FYI, when I began checking, Hotwire prices were around $23/day (plus taxes and fees) for a compact car. Ouch! It added up to more than $850 for 24 days. On previous trips I’d had bids accepted at $13/day, but this time kept getting turned down at $14. I kept checking the websites and one day, I could hardly believe my eyes: $7.99/day at Hotwire. I grabbed it for a total of $463. A few days later that rate was gone—and back up over $20/day. The moral of this story is that it’s worth it to be patient and keep checking both with flights and cars.

When I arrived at the rental lot I was told there was no difference between the compact and mid-sized cars … and I could take my pick of anything on the lot! The woman who checked me out was quite surprised when I opted for the compact car.

LODGING:

Sealodge in Princeville (on the North Shore). I’ve rented units at Sealodge many times—so I knew what to expect. This time, I chose unit J3 through www.kauai-vacations-ahh.com. I’ve always been pleased dealing with them. After a quick stop at Safeway, I collapsed an hour later at what would be my home for the next few weeks. I woke the next morning, walked into the living room half asleep, and gasped outloud. The view was beyond belief. I was facing a blazing sunrise over the Anini reef with the lightouse in the distance. It looked like one of those photos in a calendar. I didn’t need any Photoshop to make that photo look amazing. (You can check out my photos with the link at the end of this report.)

Sealodge offers your basic small condo; nothing fancy. It was built in the ‘70s and some of the units have been kept up better than others. This one had a few little chips in the furniture and bits of rust on the appliances. It also had the most spectacular view of any unit I’ve rented—and for me, that trumped anything else.

I was frustrated at not being able to get the Internet to work and assumed I must be doing something stupid. I eventually caved in and called the rental agency. The number of a local maintenance person was on their voicemail message. Twenty minutes later there was a computer tech at my door—and the problem had been fixed. (And for once, it was not anything stupid that I was doing!)

So … I spent my days with my laptop and the chickens, writing on the patio. (No, my writing did not look like chickenscratch.) It seemed that everytime I looked up I’d see another whale spout. It was incredible. There must have been a favorite feeding trough directly in front of my unit because sometimes for twenty or thirty minutes at a time they’d be breaching, slapping their tails, and spouting—in the same spot. It was a veritable parade of whales. I could even see them from inside the unit.

Being in a corner unit on the edge of the bluff I was apparently on the albatross flight path and these enormous birds would swoop past me nonstop. Egrets and the ubiquitous chickens were frequent companions, as well.

WALKS:

I wrote all day, seven days a week, taking off an hour mid-morning and an hour at sundown to walk. Most days my walk was in or along the surf at Hanalei Bay—surely one of the most magnificent spots on this planet. During my first week there were rows of waves 18 – 20 feet high! Spectacular!! But there were times and spots where it was calm enough to swim.

Other spectacular walks included Ke’e Beach, Anini Beach, Tunnels, the hike down to Sealodge Beach, and my favorite—the walking path that runs from Kapa’a past Kealia Beach. I typically rewarded myself with a swim at the end of my walk. Several mornings I walked the beautiful path beside the Princeville golf course to the St. Regis hotel and down the long stairway to their beach. The beach at the hotel, like all beaches in Hawaii, is open to the public. I’d typically get there early in the morning and there’d be very few people out. I rested in a shady spot at the water’s edge and soaked in that beauty, with its views of Bali Hai. The pool at the St. Regis is exquisite (like everything else there). The hotel is out of my price range—but it was free to visit the beach and enjoy the views.

I guess I’d never been to Ke’e Beach late in the day when the tide was out. I was surprised that I was able to walk all the way through to Tunnels. With the tide being out I walked where there would otherwise be ocean—and the views of the Napali cliffs were even more spectacular than ever. It was one of those days with exceptionally large waves and the 2-hour walk was magical.

On my final day I walked eight miles (RT) to the end of the path from Kapa’a. There were tons of whales keeping pace with me. So beautiful!

WEATHER:

So … what about that miserable weather? Sure enough, I was greeted—not by a lei welcome—but by a pouring rain. Day after day the weather report called for cloudy and showers … and once I arrived at the condo, day after day I had glorious sunshine interrupted by only a few passing puffy white clouds.

Out of twenty-four days on the rainy North Shore (during the rainy season) it rained twice—for a half-day each time. There were also a couple of momentary drizzles, but they lasted five minutes and left behind some lovely rainbows. There was one cloudy, gray day—and one day when it was windy. On that windy day the windsurfers were out in force at Hanalei Bay. It was incredible to watch these guys zooming across the water and flipping and flying above the waves.

I’m guessing that 20 or 21 of my 24 days had perfect—or “near perfect”—weather with high temps from 76 – 82; perfect water temperature; and glorious, gentle, natural air conditioning. I had no a/c and was never too warm.

FYI, I wasn’t nearly so lucky with the weather during the same period last year. It’s impossible to predict the weather. I was told that November & December had been rainy this year.

FOOD:

Food was primarily eaten in the condo. I did one run to Costco. Produce came mostly from the local farmer’s markets. Most of my food was bought prepared at Foodland—roast Huli Huli chicken and portuguese meat loaf were my favorites. So cooking basically meant reheating in the microwave; steaming veggies; fixing a sandwich, a salad, and a smoothie.

I met friends for dinner one evening at the Lighthouse Bistro, stopping first at the lighthouse. The Kilauea Lighthouse is one of the best locations for whale spotting on the North Shore—complete with binoculars and beautiful views. I spotted whales and dolphins, and enjoyed watching—and learning about—the variety of seabirds. We all enjoyed the meal; nice presentation, good food, and terrific live music.

For me, no visit to Kauai would be complete without a stop at Hamura’s Saimin in Lihue. Saimin is basically ramen noodles in broth with tasty little extras tossed in, depending on the variety you order. This place is crazy popular—so prepare to wait at peak times. Each bowl is made to order and was every bit as good as I remembered—each of the three times I went! My fave is the wonton saimin with a side of BBQ chicken sticks. (about $10.) Everyone raves about their lilikoi chiffon pie.

My other “must” restaurant experiences were the the beef with broccoli at Waipouli Home Cooking and the OMG, massive banana/macadamia nut pancakes at Kountry Kitchen in Kapa’a. One pancake is big enough for a meal—and their fresh fruit cups were fantastic—and also enormous.

SIGHTS:

I worked feverishly to meet my deadline and managed to do so four days before I had to leave. So … I could enjoy some free time before heading home. I revisited almost all my favorite places: spectacular Waimea Canyon; the Kalalau Lookout (which I believe is the most beautiful view on earth!); Wailua Falls; Opeaka’a Falls.

I would typically do the Canyon Trail walk at Waimea Canyon but I arrived too late in the day this time.

At Lygate Park snorkelers in the calm lava pools reported seeing lots of fish. One couple said they’d seen at least dozen varieties, but that the snorkeling had been even better that morning in Poipu. On a side note, while eating saimin at Hamura’s, I chatted with a woman whose father built those pools at Lydgate. There’s a memorial honoring him at the park!

LUAU:

In all my trips to Hawaii I’d never done a luau. I’d guessed it just wouldn’t be my cup of tea. This time I went to the show (skipping the dinner) at Smith’s Family Luau. It had some nice moments and seemed to please the crowd – but I was a bit bored at times. Maybe full appreciation required the Mai Tais that came with the dinner – that I skipped ;-)

HOTEL:

The condo at Sealodge wasn’t available for my last night so I bid through Priceline for a hotel. Got the Marriott Courtyard Coconut Coast (three-star) for $79/night. I booked for a second day because my flight didn’t leave until 10 P.M. I enjoyed having a place to relax and shower right up until being cast out of paradise.

I was surprisingly pleased with the hotel. There were lounge chairs set up on the beach. It was not a swimmable beach, but the pool was nice and there was a pretty path for walking—and it was only a few minutes from Lydgate Park when I wanted to swim.

CONCLUSION:

I don’t go to Kauai for the “activities” (i.e., ziplines; helicopter rides; etc …) I go to immerse in the sheer beauty of the North Shore—and I was not dissapointed.
I’ve already booked my next trip!

PHOTOS:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...hotos-_-Sharer
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Old Feb 9th, 2011, 07:37 PM
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I opened your post just to try to understand the headline (since I think Kauai is Paradise, plain and simple). I get it and thank you. Your pictures on a 20 degree day are inspiring me to return! Thank you.
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Old Feb 10th, 2011, 05:30 AM
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Glad to see you've made the leap to eating at Hamuras. As I recall, it was not love a first sight your first visit or so.
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Old Feb 10th, 2011, 05:48 AM
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Hello Songdoc

I very much enjoyed your report and especially your beautiful pictures! Each one could be a stand-alone for a calendar or picture book. Fabulous!
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Old Feb 10th, 2011, 11:40 AM
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Thanks so much for the nice comments.
PS. It wasn't me who didn't love Hamura's at first. It was love at first bite. hehehe.
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Old Feb 10th, 2011, 12:22 PM
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Yes, it sounds as if you drank the North Shore Kauai poisoned Koolaid.

I'm afraid there is no cure. You'll have to learn to live with it. Like the rest of us.
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Old Feb 10th, 2011, 01:54 PM
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I am always so happy to see one of your reports. Simple pleasures are indeed the best. I checked out Sea Lodge last visit based on your previous reviews and think it would be ideal for a solo traveler.
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Old Feb 10th, 2011, 06:12 PM
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Alas, another Songdoc trip report. You certainly are a creature of habit, be it lodging, beef and brocolli at Waipouli, or Kountry Kitchen breakfasts, or Lydegate. To be honest, I've never spent time at Lydegate.

I must say that I am surprised that a person that visits Kauai and the islands so often due to music and writing took this long to do a luau. Boggles my mind a bit. If you ever get the chance, the local canoe club in Hanalei does an incredible fundraising luau that would be a shame to miss.

Glad you have changed your mind about Hamura's. I recall you didn't like it at all at first. I adore the place, but have never been sold on the yakitori chicken. But that pie!! You haven't tried theLilikoi pie??? That's just crazy!

So more reasons to go back then, local luaus and pie! Buy one frozen and it will thaw slowly on your way back north. Makes a lovely breakfast!
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Old Feb 12th, 2011, 09:02 AM
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I couldn't imagine why people were saying I didn't like Hamura's at first. I'm addicted. I don't "like" it -- I LOVE it.

So ... I looked back over my trip reports and sure enough, four years ago I'd written that it was "okay"--but I didn't see what all fuss was about.

The only possible explanation is that I must have been temporarily out of my mind. Not sure why I returned since I didn't love it -- but I'm sure glad I did!

I haven't had the lilikoi pie because I don't use sugar. Haven't touched it in 28 years -- and yes, life is still worth living;-). But people do rave about that pie.

FYI, the big appeal to Lydgate is that with the man-made lava pools, it is always calm as a swimming pool--even when other beaches have huge waves. Also seems to be a good snorkeling spot.

I'm sure hoping the date of the Hanalei Canoe Club luau will coincide with my next trip. If it's the same date as last year (July 31st) it might not work. (The Kauai Music Festival will be July 13 - 16 -- so I might have left by the 31st because I'll be doing a long trip to Scandinavia in August. Life is good!)

I think one of the things that bothered me at the luau was the sonic quality of the music. There was a delay, so I was hearing the live performance--followed a second later by the same music coming from the speakers. Probably wouldn't bother most people--but being a musician, I found it very distracting and unpleasant.

And I forgot to mention that throughout the luau an exceptionally loud bullfrog was singing along at the most inopportune moments--sounding quite a bit like people belching! It was hilarious.
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Old Feb 12th, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Hamuras Simin
Yumm. The first time we went it took us about 20 minutes walking around the street to find it tucked away. This was back in the 80's I think. Everything seemed old and worn. I've heard that the place has been spruced up a bit. I hope it hasn't lost its charm. The soup was the best and people seemed to be there from all over the world!

My bro-in-law (who lives in Oahu) flies over buys up large containers and freezes it at home for Hamura food craving attacks!
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Old Feb 14th, 2011, 08:57 AM
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I came here for a much needed Kauai fix..AS soon as I saw your name, I knew you wouldn't disappoint. Thanks for a great report. I have to wait until May for 2 weeks of Garden Isle bliss!
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Old Feb 17th, 2011, 09:32 PM
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Great photos. have stayed at SeaLodge and also have a wonderful rainbow pix. Counting the hours until Monday when I go back to my home away from home - Kauai. So looking forward to the beauty that is the Garden Isle. Trip # 11........
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Old Feb 18th, 2011, 05:58 AM
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Getting ready to look at your photos now, Songdoc! Ahhhh, in 28 more days, I will be boarding the flight in Atlanta and headed to that hell hole they call Kauai!!!!! The closer it gets, the more excited I get. My first trip to Kauai was 8 years ago, and I was afflicted with Kauaiitis and just can't get rid of of!!!!
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Old Feb 18th, 2011, 10:27 AM
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Wonderful report! How lucky on the weather, too. We were there last May for 8 days and two days were too rainy and windy to venture out (good days to hang out on our front porch in Hanalei, though). My six year old love Hamura's. She gobbled up her shrimp bowl and mine, too.
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Old Feb 25th, 2011, 09:57 AM
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Thanks for the nice comments!

Found a receipt that reminded me I also ate at a relatively new Indian restaurant in Wailua -- Shivaluk. I had the dinner buffet and enjoyed it. I won't say it was my favorite Indian food ever--but it was good. The fresh-from-the-oven naan was amazing.

I'm sooo jealous of those who are getting ready to go. Cold, gray Nashville has not been looking good since I returned.

I've decided there are two types of people in this world; enlightened, discerning people with taste (like those reading this thread) -- and those who just don't "get" Kauai. ;-)

It's inconceivable to me to look at Hanalei Bay; Ke'e Beach; Tunnels; the mountains in Hanalei; Waimea Canyon; Koke'e Park; the Kalalau Lookout, etc ... and not recognize the most beautiful place on earth.

But my DP simply doesn't like it there -- and I know someone else -- a seemingly sane, intelligent person -- who agrees. Mind boggling!
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Old Feb 25th, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Great trip report. We head to Kauai once a year and always have had great triips, Only one really rainy trip thus far. And it was a lot of rain. But out of like 12 trips only one soaker, Not bad.

http://www.steeltropics.com/
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Old Feb 27th, 2011, 02:13 PM
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I've decided there are two types of people in this world; enlightened, discerning people with taste (like those reading this thread) -- and those who just don't "get" Kauai.


Some of the nicest people I've met at the Sand Bar tell me they will never go back to Maui again after their first trip to Kauai.
But, diff strokes.
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Old Mar 1st, 2011, 05:16 AM
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Hey Kal, I'm one of the nicest people you know and hate Kauai as much as you and as apparently songdoc here and I just got back from Maui! Can't one swing both ways?

Watch it MISTER!
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Old Mar 1st, 2011, 06:44 AM
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Where IS that darn "biting tongue" e-mote???
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Old Mar 2nd, 2011, 07:19 PM
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Kal, Guess I must be another one of those nice people at the Sand Bar. (even tho' I spilled a drink there) After discovering Kauai in '98 husband and I have never gone back to Maui but return to Garden Island yearly.
Enjoying drinks and pupus oceanfront on Kauai East Shore as I type this. So warm and sunny this past week. Watched the kite and wind surfers, whales and spinner dolphins. Great seafood burritos at Monico's Tacqueria last night. Enroute to quiet Salt Pond today we picked up yummy cream malasadas from Meneheune Market, Lawai. So great to be back BUT will that Wailua bridge ever be finished!?!
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