Trip Report YNP/GTNP
Aug 9th, 2006, 01:19 PM
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Trip Report YNP/GTNP
July 30, we flew into Jackson with 9 other flights, and attempted to go into town for some provisions and cooler. We were so enamored with the Tetons that we took a wrong turn immediately, and 20 minutes into the drive, had to turn around to backtrack into the town of Jackson. Oh well. My husband and I had both been to YNP twice, before the fires, and wanted to show our daughters some "typical" sights before we checked into our first lodging, the Old Faithful Inn. We stopped at West Thumb and did the loop. It served as a neat way to show them what was coming.
The OF Inn took our breath away. It's an enormous log structure, ripe with history, and our 2 rooms were just fine. Ours was brighter than the kids', both looked out over some geyser basins. At the inn , they provide you with terry robes for the showers, found in a clean, public bathroom which was never full. In fact, the entire inn was full up but you'd not know it. We thought all the lodging at the 3 places we stayed , handled the crowds terrifically. There was a wait for breakfast, but no more than 10 minutes or so. I'd already made the dinner reservation for our first night-and did see people walking up for dinner turned away. But there are plenty of choices right around the inn.
As soon as we'd dumped our bags in our rooms, it was time for Old Faithful to erupt. Talk about timing. To make matters even better, a bison walked right in front of the waiting crowds-not more than 10 feet from where we stood. In addition to being able to walk right up to a viewing spot, the inn has an enormous second story balcony/deck, on which you could also sit, stare at OF, or any other geyser within eyesight, or eat, drink, play cards, read etc etc. We even, from that vantage point, saw Grand Geyser erupt, a spectacular sight of maybe 200 feet, but not one I'd wanted to sit for the 3 hour window and wait for when there. We also liked that from the inn, you can walk the up-to 5 mile trail around the geyser basins, do a short hike up to Observation Point or Solitary geyser, all of which I recommend.
The next AM, we set out for Biscuit Basin, Mystic Falls and Observation Point, a 5 or 6 mile hike. You access it at the rear of B.Basin. Good hike-nice gradual climb, great views at ob. point, beautiful falls, and an elk just off the trail some 20 feet from us. Later, we drove around other short turn offs, but wanted to avoid crowds. We also did Shoshone Lake hike-our least favorite of the whole trip.It's nice enough, through a forest and then meadows, ending up at a large inland, blacksand lake only accessed by foot or canoe. Just didn't thrill us. Sorry.
We'd picked up salads at the cafeteria at the Inn and sat on the outside deck with our already purchased wine, salads, and enjoyed the night. The interior balconies of the inn are equally as inviting and amenable to talking, reading, playing cards, drinking, what have you. I'd worried about the shared bathroom thing, but in all places we stayed, not to worry.
Every morning we had big breakfasts, always delicious, at our inn/lodges, ate from our cooler if we wanted lunch, and had mostly good meals for dinner. We had only one bad dinner in all our inn/lodging meals, by the way.This one at the Lake Yellowstone Hotel.
Our next destination was Lake Yellowstone, where we 4 shared a large room at a corner with a nonadvertised lake view! This place is rather "posh" compared to the rest of the park, but it worked. We always stocked up on free early AM coffee and walked around the inns waiting for our daughters to be ready everywhere we went. Not a hardship. At the lake, the walk was around the lake, as beautiful a sight as any. We used Lake as our base for the Canyon area-which appeared VERY crowded. We'd checked out Artist Point and some nearby geyser/mudpot spots, and were ready for our South Rim hike. This begins at the Wapitiki parking lot, the first turnoff for the Canyon when coming from the south. We followed the South Rim, walked through Artist Point, picked up Ribbon Lake trail and then Clear Lake trail.
This was a hike my DH and I had remembered from 26 years ago. You climb up to the South Rim, walk along it for amazing vews of this canyon, then find youself in a moonscape of mudpots and greystone wasteland. Next you walk to Clear Lake, a beautiful resting spot before the final climb up and down a meadow strewn with purple and white (and yellow depending on the season) flowers. It's a 6 mile hike of unique contrasts, and possibly our favorite, if its possible to have a favorite in this stupendous land.
At this point, you're in Hayden Valley, home to wolves, coyote, elk, bears, bison, eagles, etc. We saw all but the wolves. As it was rutting season, the bison were somewhat scary til we got used to them. They not only crisscross the roads, but they were getting VERY agitated by all the cars. We had herds of them surround us, with the bull stamping his foot, sticking his grassgreen tongue in a hiss, snarling, etc. They are mating, and we autos, and especially the loud motorcycles, were clearly getting in their way. In fact, we had to abort one of our hikes, around the lake region, because the path wound through herds of bison and we didn't want to mess!
We had dinner at the Canyon Lodge, opted for the very complete salad bar, and were happy enough. Driving back to Lake, we saw elk and a coyote stalking, but not attacking, them. And, if you looked REAL hard, you could see a bear, way off, eating a buffalo. The crowd of gawkers, we among them, were warily watched over by the ever attentive Yellowstone security force.
After we left the Lake, we went up to Mammoth. We walked the Hoodoo trail-a climb up a ridge of a mountain to some giant boulders strewn around by giants. Rather, volcanic eruptions. Another in a series of great, 5-6 mile hikes.You could go further than we did, joining up with another trail, but we chose to backtrack in order to see the Mammoth basin and picnic. We then drove out the North entrance road towards Gardner and found the Boiling River spot many have written about. It's hardly a secret-it was packed! You hike a mile in to the spot where the Boiling River empties into the Gardner, slide yourself in, and enjoy.
Next and final location in YNP was Tower Roosevelt. We loved the frontier cabins. The drive from Canyon to Tower, I should mention, is breathtaking. As is the drive from Tower to Mammoth. We enjoyed our late night and early morning fires in the woodburning stoves, as the temp dropped to around 38-40 degrees. You are provided with plenty of pressed logs for this endeavor. You're now in the Lamar Valley-to me the most spectacular. Our hikes were the Picnic Area hike, Lost Lake and Falls, and then a 5 minute walk beyhind the lodge to a "secret falls," where we followed the trevails of a yellow bellied marmot. The Picnic Area hike walks around the rim of the Canyon, 20 or so miles from where we'd last hiked it. The Lost Lake is a climb, starting from behind the Roosevelt Lodge, up to a beautiful, lilypadded lake, and the secret falls, (so named by our waiter in the Lodge dining room), is a short jaunt to a very peaceful setting, again beginning from behind the Lodge.
We sadly said goodbye to YNP and drove straight to GTNP. If Yellowstone was spectacular, GTNP was thrilling. We stayed at the Signal Mountain Lodge and had a great 2-room cabin across from Jackson lake. We'd signed up for the Snake River float trip and arrived at about the time to begin the trip.
The Float trip was a great intro to GTNP. You have a marvelous view of the Tetons and what a special way to appreciate all the area can offer. Right away we saw a moose, lucky for our guide! We also saw eagles, osprey, and beaver, and just thought the ride was serene and special, as did the other 2 families also with us on this trip.
Thanks to these boards, we set out for Jenny Lake the next AM. We walked around the lake before hiking up to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. We were glad we went by foot. Not more than 10 feet from us was a bear, contentedly eating away, not caring a fig for the crowd quickly gathering. This is a great hike, as many here have claimed. Again, on our way down, heading to the shuttle boat, there was a bear cub up a tree with its mother nearby. And again, we were not more than 10 feet from these magnificent creatures.
We went over to the Jackson Lake Lodge, walked behind it, up Rockerfeller's Picnic Hill trail, and continued up, going on dirt paths with spokes out to the ledge over Willow Flats. Sure enough, there were 3 different bull moose eating away, hidden from the horse and wagon folk riding by.
IN the Tetons, we most often saw wildlife by hiking or driving down the roads. I lost count of the black bear, mule dear, and moose we spotted this way. But one last recommendation is the drive up Signal Mountain at sunset. Fabulous, as advertised. Also a path that lead us right next to bear, dear, and grouse. The view's not too shabby either! Check out both the top of the mountain, as well as the Jackson Lake side, which you come to before you reach the top. At SML, we had breakfast and 1 dinner at the Lodge, and one dinner at the Marina Pizza restaurant they also own (Leeks?). Everything was delicious. The 2-room cabin had a porch and picnic table, was ultra comfortable, and I should have taken the time to walk along the trails behind it to look for elk etc. And, like all our YNP lodgings, there was ample free, delicious coffee in the AMs.
Really, we could not have imagined a more perfect vacation. Everything cooperated.
The OF Inn took our breath away. It's an enormous log structure, ripe with history, and our 2 rooms were just fine. Ours was brighter than the kids', both looked out over some geyser basins. At the inn , they provide you with terry robes for the showers, found in a clean, public bathroom which was never full. In fact, the entire inn was full up but you'd not know it. We thought all the lodging at the 3 places we stayed , handled the crowds terrifically. There was a wait for breakfast, but no more than 10 minutes or so. I'd already made the dinner reservation for our first night-and did see people walking up for dinner turned away. But there are plenty of choices right around the inn.
As soon as we'd dumped our bags in our rooms, it was time for Old Faithful to erupt. Talk about timing. To make matters even better, a bison walked right in front of the waiting crowds-not more than 10 feet from where we stood. In addition to being able to walk right up to a viewing spot, the inn has an enormous second story balcony/deck, on which you could also sit, stare at OF, or any other geyser within eyesight, or eat, drink, play cards, read etc etc. We even, from that vantage point, saw Grand Geyser erupt, a spectacular sight of maybe 200 feet, but not one I'd wanted to sit for the 3 hour window and wait for when there. We also liked that from the inn, you can walk the up-to 5 mile trail around the geyser basins, do a short hike up to Observation Point or Solitary geyser, all of which I recommend.
The next AM, we set out for Biscuit Basin, Mystic Falls and Observation Point, a 5 or 6 mile hike. You access it at the rear of B.Basin. Good hike-nice gradual climb, great views at ob. point, beautiful falls, and an elk just off the trail some 20 feet from us. Later, we drove around other short turn offs, but wanted to avoid crowds. We also did Shoshone Lake hike-our least favorite of the whole trip.It's nice enough, through a forest and then meadows, ending up at a large inland, blacksand lake only accessed by foot or canoe. Just didn't thrill us. Sorry.
We'd picked up salads at the cafeteria at the Inn and sat on the outside deck with our already purchased wine, salads, and enjoyed the night. The interior balconies of the inn are equally as inviting and amenable to talking, reading, playing cards, drinking, what have you. I'd worried about the shared bathroom thing, but in all places we stayed, not to worry.
Every morning we had big breakfasts, always delicious, at our inn/lodges, ate from our cooler if we wanted lunch, and had mostly good meals for dinner. We had only one bad dinner in all our inn/lodging meals, by the way.This one at the Lake Yellowstone Hotel.
Our next destination was Lake Yellowstone, where we 4 shared a large room at a corner with a nonadvertised lake view! This place is rather "posh" compared to the rest of the park, but it worked. We always stocked up on free early AM coffee and walked around the inns waiting for our daughters to be ready everywhere we went. Not a hardship. At the lake, the walk was around the lake, as beautiful a sight as any. We used Lake as our base for the Canyon area-which appeared VERY crowded. We'd checked out Artist Point and some nearby geyser/mudpot spots, and were ready for our South Rim hike. This begins at the Wapitiki parking lot, the first turnoff for the Canyon when coming from the south. We followed the South Rim, walked through Artist Point, picked up Ribbon Lake trail and then Clear Lake trail.
This was a hike my DH and I had remembered from 26 years ago. You climb up to the South Rim, walk along it for amazing vews of this canyon, then find youself in a moonscape of mudpots and greystone wasteland. Next you walk to Clear Lake, a beautiful resting spot before the final climb up and down a meadow strewn with purple and white (and yellow depending on the season) flowers. It's a 6 mile hike of unique contrasts, and possibly our favorite, if its possible to have a favorite in this stupendous land.
At this point, you're in Hayden Valley, home to wolves, coyote, elk, bears, bison, eagles, etc. We saw all but the wolves. As it was rutting season, the bison were somewhat scary til we got used to them. They not only crisscross the roads, but they were getting VERY agitated by all the cars. We had herds of them surround us, with the bull stamping his foot, sticking his grassgreen tongue in a hiss, snarling, etc. They are mating, and we autos, and especially the loud motorcycles, were clearly getting in their way. In fact, we had to abort one of our hikes, around the lake region, because the path wound through herds of bison and we didn't want to mess!
We had dinner at the Canyon Lodge, opted for the very complete salad bar, and were happy enough. Driving back to Lake, we saw elk and a coyote stalking, but not attacking, them. And, if you looked REAL hard, you could see a bear, way off, eating a buffalo. The crowd of gawkers, we among them, were warily watched over by the ever attentive Yellowstone security force.
After we left the Lake, we went up to Mammoth. We walked the Hoodoo trail-a climb up a ridge of a mountain to some giant boulders strewn around by giants. Rather, volcanic eruptions. Another in a series of great, 5-6 mile hikes.You could go further than we did, joining up with another trail, but we chose to backtrack in order to see the Mammoth basin and picnic. We then drove out the North entrance road towards Gardner and found the Boiling River spot many have written about. It's hardly a secret-it was packed! You hike a mile in to the spot where the Boiling River empties into the Gardner, slide yourself in, and enjoy.
Next and final location in YNP was Tower Roosevelt. We loved the frontier cabins. The drive from Canyon to Tower, I should mention, is breathtaking. As is the drive from Tower to Mammoth. We enjoyed our late night and early morning fires in the woodburning stoves, as the temp dropped to around 38-40 degrees. You are provided with plenty of pressed logs for this endeavor. You're now in the Lamar Valley-to me the most spectacular. Our hikes were the Picnic Area hike, Lost Lake and Falls, and then a 5 minute walk beyhind the lodge to a "secret falls," where we followed the trevails of a yellow bellied marmot. The Picnic Area hike walks around the rim of the Canyon, 20 or so miles from where we'd last hiked it. The Lost Lake is a climb, starting from behind the Roosevelt Lodge, up to a beautiful, lilypadded lake, and the secret falls, (so named by our waiter in the Lodge dining room), is a short jaunt to a very peaceful setting, again beginning from behind the Lodge.
We sadly said goodbye to YNP and drove straight to GTNP. If Yellowstone was spectacular, GTNP was thrilling. We stayed at the Signal Mountain Lodge and had a great 2-room cabin across from Jackson lake. We'd signed up for the Snake River float trip and arrived at about the time to begin the trip.
The Float trip was a great intro to GTNP. You have a marvelous view of the Tetons and what a special way to appreciate all the area can offer. Right away we saw a moose, lucky for our guide! We also saw eagles, osprey, and beaver, and just thought the ride was serene and special, as did the other 2 families also with us on this trip.
Thanks to these boards, we set out for Jenny Lake the next AM. We walked around the lake before hiking up to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point. We were glad we went by foot. Not more than 10 feet from us was a bear, contentedly eating away, not caring a fig for the crowd quickly gathering. This is a great hike, as many here have claimed. Again, on our way down, heading to the shuttle boat, there was a bear cub up a tree with its mother nearby. And again, we were not more than 10 feet from these magnificent creatures.
We went over to the Jackson Lake Lodge, walked behind it, up Rockerfeller's Picnic Hill trail, and continued up, going on dirt paths with spokes out to the ledge over Willow Flats. Sure enough, there were 3 different bull moose eating away, hidden from the horse and wagon folk riding by.
IN the Tetons, we most often saw wildlife by hiking or driving down the roads. I lost count of the black bear, mule dear, and moose we spotted this way. But one last recommendation is the drive up Signal Mountain at sunset. Fabulous, as advertised. Also a path that lead us right next to bear, dear, and grouse. The view's not too shabby either! Check out both the top of the mountain, as well as the Jackson Lake side, which you come to before you reach the top. At SML, we had breakfast and 1 dinner at the Lodge, and one dinner at the Marina Pizza restaurant they also own (Leeks?). Everything was delicious. The 2-room cabin had a porch and picnic table, was ultra comfortable, and I should have taken the time to walk along the trails behind it to look for elk etc. And, like all our YNP lodgings, there was ample free, delicious coffee in the AMs.
Really, we could not have imagined a more perfect vacation. Everything cooperated.
Aug 9th, 2006, 01:59 PM
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Trip report end.
I started planning the trip last January. Armed with my reading from this sight, TripAdvisor, a few guide books, a lot of enthusiasm and curiosity, we felt ready and enjoyed all aspects of the trip. I heartily thank all of you who have contributed to this sight, for sharing the highlights of your own trips, as well as some things you didn't like. In addition, there were the most intense rainbows, both doublets and singlets, I can remember seeing, big sky star viewing, sudden rain/lightening storms as advertised, happy, friendly fellow travelers, and helpful park employees. I often marvel at friends who have not visited this grand country-these are 2 of the parks we are lucky to have access to.
I started planning the trip last January. Armed with my reading from this sight, TripAdvisor, a few guide books, a lot of enthusiasm and curiosity, we felt ready and enjoyed all aspects of the trip. I heartily thank all of you who have contributed to this sight, for sharing the highlights of your own trips, as well as some things you didn't like. In addition, there were the most intense rainbows, both doublets and singlets, I can remember seeing, big sky star viewing, sudden rain/lightening storms as advertised, happy, friendly fellow travelers, and helpful park employees. I often marvel at friends who have not visited this grand country-these are 2 of the parks we are lucky to have access to.
Aug 9th, 2006, 02:19 PM
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Thank you, thank you, soxgirl! When I saw that this was your trip report, I got out pencil and paper to take notes and jot down questions to ask. Well, as I read, you answered nearly every question before I had a chance to ask!
Thank for a great trip report!
When you say "you can walk the up-to 5 mile trail around the geyser basins, do a short hike up to Observation Point or Solitary geyser, all of which I recommend." Is that the same hike you said you did the next AM? I feel sure it is, but don't want to miss anything.
How long (timewise) would you say it took you once you were at the airport, including when you picked up rental, made stops, got lost (can SO identify with that one), and got to the OFI? I am just trying to estimate if we have allowed enough time between JAC and lodging in YNP.
Thanks, again!
Thank for a great trip report!When you say "you can walk the up-to 5 mile trail around the geyser basins, do a short hike up to Observation Point or Solitary geyser, all of which I recommend." Is that the same hike you said you did the next AM? I feel sure it is, but don't want to miss anything.
How long (timewise) would you say it took you once you were at the airport, including when you picked up rental, made stops, got lost (can SO identify with that one), and got to the OFI? I am just trying to estimate if we have allowed enough time between JAC and lodging in YNP.
Thanks, again!
Aug 9th, 2006, 04:26 PM
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Hi speedbunny, The hike from Biscuit Basin which we did is the combo Observation Point and Mystic Falls. This is different from the observation point just above Old Faithful. Biscuit Basin is one of the areas near OF that you can walk around, hike from etc. We had to get into our car, drive to Biscuit Basin, to begin that mystic falls/observation point walk. At OF itself, there are 5 miles of paths you can choose to take, making your walk from .5 to 5 miles depending on the loop you choose. One spur of this OF path is called, also, an observation point and the Solitary Geyser also comes from this walk. So, the Observation Points oversee different parts of this OF area. Also, staying at OF, it's very cool to walk around that part of the geyser basin at dusk.
When we arrived at JAC, I was told Sat. and Sun were the busiest days. My kids and I went to collect the luggage, which took easily 25 min. or so to show up, while my DH waited for the rental car. I actually got the luggage before it was his turn for the car. The lady at Alamo said that on Saturdays, this day being a Sunday, the line for the car pick-ups looped around and around like at Disneyworld. If you are fortunate enough not to be arriving on a weekend, you might not have such a long wait. As it was Sun, we arrived about 12:30, got our stuff, car, backtracked to Jackson and spent too much at Albertson's, gaped at the town itself which is a trip, walked West Thumb and made it to OF Inn in time to check in and see the 5:15 OF display. Close to 5 hours,slow, relaxed going.
Finally, for this thread anyway, yes, we chose the slow float trip. As I said in some other thread, it depends on what you want out of it. WW is fun, thrilling, laugh-get wet-exciting. The float trip is more placid, contemplative, quiet, equally as thrilling in an entirely different way, and thoroughly enjoyable to all.Those in the group of 12 in our raft went from 8 years old up to me. I was the oldest We wanted the scenery and wildlife. The Tetons are gorgeous, and we thought, what a terrific way to first enjoy them from the perspective of a river.
When we arrived at JAC, I was told Sat. and Sun were the busiest days. My kids and I went to collect the luggage, which took easily 25 min. or so to show up, while my DH waited for the rental car. I actually got the luggage before it was his turn for the car. The lady at Alamo said that on Saturdays, this day being a Sunday, the line for the car pick-ups looped around and around like at Disneyworld. If you are fortunate enough not to be arriving on a weekend, you might not have such a long wait. As it was Sun, we arrived about 12:30, got our stuff, car, backtracked to Jackson and spent too much at Albertson's, gaped at the town itself which is a trip, walked West Thumb and made it to OF Inn in time to check in and see the 5:15 OF display. Close to 5 hours,slow, relaxed going.
Finally, for this thread anyway, yes, we chose the slow float trip. As I said in some other thread, it depends on what you want out of it. WW is fun, thrilling, laugh-get wet-exciting. The float trip is more placid, contemplative, quiet, equally as thrilling in an entirely different way, and thoroughly enjoyable to all.Those in the group of 12 in our raft went from 8 years old up to me. I was the oldest
We wanted the scenery and wildlife. The Tetons are gorgeous, and we thought, what a terrific way to first enjoy them from the perspective of a river.
Aug 9th, 2006, 06:54 PM
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My bad.I shouldn't be lazy-I tripped up by not consulting my books when i wrote my report. It isn't another "Observation Point" from Biscuit Basin, as you astutely suspected. The trail from Biscuit basin is Mystic Falls and OVERLOOK.
Observation Point is the one and only named spot from the OF Visitor Center, right next to the OF Inn.It can loop into a 2 mile loop and include Solitary Geyser.Sorry for the confusion.
I recommend both the Mystic Falls/Overlook, and then the various walks, including the Ob. Point/Solitary Geyser from the Upper Geyser Basin at OF.
Observation Point is the one and only named spot from the OF Visitor Center, right next to the OF Inn.It can loop into a 2 mile loop and include Solitary Geyser.Sorry for the confusion.
I recommend both the Mystic Falls/Overlook, and then the various walks, including the Ob. Point/Solitary Geyser from the Upper Geyser Basin at OF.
Aug 9th, 2006, 08:34 PM
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For starters, thanks for the laugh, soxgirl, I needed a good one tonight! [SpeedBunny?!;-)LOL]
And thanks for answering my questions. And no, I didn't really catch your mistake with the hikes, I was just confused trying to follow my map of hikes as I read over your tirp report again. You have been most helpful with all of your posts and threads!
[SpeedBunny?!;-)LOL]And thanks for answering my questions. And no, I didn't really catch your mistake with the hikes, I was just confused trying to follow my map of hikes as I read over your tirp report again. You have been most helpful with all of your posts and threads!
Aug 10th, 2006, 04:12 AM
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Thanks so much for all the great info. Sounds like an awesome trip. We're headed to YNP/Tetons in early Sept - my first time there. The hiking info is especially helpful. It's been difficult trying to decide which hikes to do - I'll be printing out your report for future reference. Thanks again!
Sep 7th, 2006, 09:18 AM
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wow..awesome. I am leaving in a couple weeks and I have spent most of the time planning Yellowstone. I am staying in a cabin at SML also. And am starting to decide on what to do. Your report was great.
Isn't it scarey seeing a bear that close? were you by yourself? I am mostly interested in Wildlife so you helped answer the question on the snake river. I guess I should call and make a reservation right?
Would you suggest doing the river trip one night and the drive up Signal Mountain for the sunset the other night. I didn't know if you would get back in time for the sunset.
How hard was the walk and hike for Jenny Lake? How long did it take? I have heard that you can walk and then take the boat back too if need be.
oooohhhhh...I just can't wait!!!!!
Isn't it scarey seeing a bear that close? were you by yourself? I am mostly interested in Wildlife so you helped answer the question on the snake river. I guess I should call and make a reservation right?
Would you suggest doing the river trip one night and the drive up Signal Mountain for the sunset the other night. I didn't know if you would get back in time for the sunset.
How hard was the walk and hike for Jenny Lake? How long did it take? I have heard that you can walk and then take the boat back too if need be.
oooohhhhh...I just can't wait!!!!!
Jun 9th, 2007, 06:23 PM
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Thanks for all the details, soxgirl!
We bought our airline tickets just today for September, so now I'm busy reading all the lovely reports here. You sure packed a bunch into your days. Love the long walks. I'll be sure to check them out.
Good job!
We bought our airline tickets just today for September, so now I'm busy reading all the lovely reports here. You sure packed a bunch into your days. Love the long walks. I'll be sure to check them out.
Good job!
