Trip report : TX-LA-FL-DC-NYC-AZ-CA

Old Nov 21st, 2012, 06:04 PM
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Trip report : TX-LA-FL-DC-NYC-AZ-CA

We (husband & 9 yr old son) are on an 8 week trip of a lifetime to the US. At various times we'll be joined by our older daughter and her husband and our younger daughter who is currently studying at the University of Austin (providing the stimulus for our trip!).
Fodors has been a great help in planning the trip so I thought I might share my blog posts as we go in case anyone else is planning something similar.

Day 1 Melbourne to Dallas

Time zones confuse the hell out of me. We left Sydney at 4.30 pm on Sunday, November 18th, traveled for 15 hours and landed in Dallas at 4.15 Sunday, November 18th!

I'm not sure where we were for those 15 hours but it sure felt like the Twilight zone and the missing time stamps would certainly support that. To be honest, the flight wasn't as bad as I expected. The food was edible, we had plenty of leg room behind the galley and the baby travelling across the aisle only cried a couple of times through the endless night.

When we arrived in Dallas the biggest difference we noticed was the lengthy queues at immigration where everyone has their fingerprints scanned and photos taken. The upside was that by the time we got through the lines our bags were ready so we grabbed them and jumped on a shuttle to take us to the rental car site about 10 minutes away. Ambitiously , we anticipated getting to our hotel in time for a leisurely stroll around the city.

Unfortunately, the rental we'd arranged for Dallas Fort Worth airport was actually waiting at Dallas Love Field airport. By law apparently you cannot hire a taxi at the rental car compound so it was back in the shuttle to the first airport so we could get a taxi ($53 & 45 mins away) to the second. The driver was very helpful, although having grown up in pre metric times, I'm pretty sure 80 mph is more than a bit over anyone's speed limit.

Eventually the Dollar rental office was found and Geoff bravely took the driver's seat to negotiate our way into the city on the 'other' side of the road. It's pretty scary having the cars coming the opposite way to your automatic reaction but the combination of light Sunday night traffic and our sat nav bought from home got us to he Crowne Plaza in time for a wander downtown. It was eerily quiet for a big city , very reminiscent of Canberra after dark. We ate at a burger joint, absolutely delicious chicken fried chicken burgers with chilli cheese fries and a green bean salad on the side. Yummo!

Now we're holed up in our hotel room drinking Budweiser and watching a replay of the Cowboys game on TV.

Day 1 survived!

Day 2 Dallas to Austin
I was almost too scared to open my eyes this morning in case I was jet lagged but we all seem to have made the adjustment to -17 hours pretty smoothly.

This morning was devoted to a pilgrimage to the corner of Elm and Main St to visit the site where President John F Kennedy was assassinated almost 50 years ago. Even though I was only very young at the time of the shooting, I remember it well. Maybe it struck a chord because the Kennedys were the same age as my parents or perhaps it was because it was one of the first 'world' events relayed around the world on TV, but the images from that day are well known to me. More recently, Geoff and I have both read Stephen King's 11/63, a great story about the Kennedy assassination & Lee Harvey Oswald.

The School Book Depository building was just a short walk from the Crowne Plaza and we were greeted on the corner by a man who introduced himself as Ron Washington. Our friend Alison had told us about this guy who says he was a witness to the shooting as a child and lo and behold there he was, selling copies of the headlines from 1963 and offering guided tours of the site. It was a coincidence too good to pass up and besides, anyone who can continue to make a living out of a single event for 30 years deserves to be rewarded ! We weren't disappointed with Ron's tour even though it came with an elaborate dose of his own conspiracy theory. He even made a point of using our cameras to make sure we were all in the photos. On reflection, I reckon Ron may well have been the stimulus for King's 'yellow card man' in the book.

Being at the site where someone has been killed is always an eerie feeling. We all experienced the same sense of curiosity mixed with reverence and respect for those who were affected that day.

We were on the road to Austin by lunch time, keen to catch up with Sophie. We took the interstate, a giant mass of tangled ribbons of concrete where, unbelievably , the speed limit is 80 miles per hour (128km). I was white knuckled by the time we pulled over at the Hillsboro outlet mall for our first taste of US retail therapy. The Nike store was amazing. Free runs for $40 and clothing at 1/4 the price you would pay in Aus. Needless to say a couple of big bags were added to our luggage.

We reached Austin just on dark and after a near miss when we turned right into the oncoming traffic on the wrong side of the road !!, we found Sophie and Ben sitting on the porch of her house in Salado St. Starving, we took a trip to the Wholefoods Market, a wonderland of raw and pre cooked delights. It was like a supermarket/ restaurant and I could have stayed there for hours.

Day 3 Austin to San Antonio
Today we took another trip into Texan history by visiting the Alamo in San Antonio. I've never really known much about the Alamo, except of course that Davy Crockett (King of the Wild Frontier) apparently fought and died there, (wearing his coon skin hat no doubt). Like most of my American history, I learnt that from a movie. Having been to the Alamo today, I still don't really understand the battle but I believe it has something to do with revolution and independence and so I liken it a bit to the battle of Eureka at Ballarat.

There were LOTS of people wandering the beautifully restored and manicured grounds of the Alamo and we saw a lot of squirrels. These are our new, favourite animal and squirrel spotting has become quite a holiday competition. The history itself didn't resonate very strongly, probably because we don't understand it and also because it's quite a manufactured history now, too polished and pretty to represent the events that took place there.

For lunch we strolled through the Riverwalk Market area. Actually we shopped our way through the market. Everything is so cheap here, we feel beholden to do our bit for the economy by buying things ;-). The Riverwalk is beautiful, a narrow, winding strip of water surrounded on both banks by high rise apartments and restaurants that go right down to the water's edge. A water taxi runs up and down with guided commentaries. We ate at the Hard Rock Cafe and I had a pulled pork sandwich . Sandwiches here bear no resemblance to the two bits of flat bread and filling that we have at home. This particular monster was a glazed bun filled with about half a pig. I managed about half of it washed down with a pitcher of iced tea.

I'm loving everything about Texas except for the traffic. It's ridiculous and I'm afeared for my life every time we get in the car. The speed limit on the freeway is 80 miles per hour. 80! And this appears to be the minimum speed because while we're doing that we've been passed by huge, fully laden trucks and helmet less motorbike riders. Most of them are talking on their phone or texting. At intersections there are stop signs. Sometimes just for the cars traveling in one direction but usually for everyone. So everyone stops and then the person who thinks they got there first (or the bravest/most reckless one) moves off. I've seen lots of Highway Patrol cars booking people but I think you have to be going +100mph to get a ticket!

Tonight we went to Sophie's favourite Tex Mex restaurant, Trudy's. We ate corn chips dipped in guacamole and melted yellow cheese. Then we ate a whole range of nacho/ taco/ enchilada things stuffed and covered in more melted,yellow cheese. It's delicious while you're eating it but then you can literally feel it curling around your arteries and squeezing them.
I believe it may have been this cheese that was ultimately the downfall of the Alamo.

Day 4 Austin
I'm pretty sure we're going to 'shop' our way around the US. The exchange rate has made shopping an affordable pleasure for us and the novelty of different brands and drastically reduced prices on our 'own' brands is irresistible.

Today it was back to Whole Foods to prepare for Thanksgiving tomorrow. Thanksgiving Eve is like the Thursday before Easter in Australia. Everyone thinks they need to shop for a possible holocaust. Whole Foods was packed but that didn't detract from the pleasure of the 1000 varieties of everything in every aisle. We bought a ready cooked smoked turkey ( I admired Sophie's optimism in thinking she could whip one up for 14 people but I'm old enough to know better), pumpkin pie (yes, it's a desert), asparagus, green beans, brussell sprouts (Geoff did remind me that we don't like them but they looked so festive), stuffing, a fruit platter and a couple of one litre bottles of wine (yes, even wine bottles are bigger in Texas!). We also bought some hamburgers & buffalo sausages for dinner tonight. Funnily enough, although eating out is ridiculously cheap here, the meat was very expensive.

Then we took a trip to Barton Springs Mall. It's just a wee shopping centre about the size of Chadstone. I spent a lot of money on clothes for Taine that probably won't fit him when we get to our Winter but at least he'll be warm when we hit colder weather further north.

Back in town we visited the Longhorn Co Op. The Longhorns are the University of Texas football team and their merchandise shop fills three floors! You can buy every conceivable thing in orange. I'll be set for the game tomorrow night and Harmony Day forever!

Our last stop for the day was to add a few more calories in the form of frozen yoghurt covered in an assortment of confectionary. We have something similar in Australia where you get to choose from a dozen or so toppings. This place had hundreds.

Including chocolate covered potato chips.........
Kwaussie is offline  
Old Nov 21st, 2012, 06:17 PM
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Sounds like a good start to your adventure, keep it up!! Thanks.
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Old Nov 21st, 2012, 06:59 PM
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I'm enjoying the story and joining the road trip!
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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 02:16 AM
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Amen to enjoying your story - and LOL. Gotta love the squirrel counting competition, and also your great attitude at not letting a little thing like a several hour rental car snafu deter your Aussie spirit.

Most of all - please keep up with your adventure reports.

Not sure if I relayed this - but I/we (my law school roomies) traveled with a couple of Aussies when we were in Morocco and later at the Octoberfest, and we had a blast camping out with several thousand Aussies at a five star campground next to a river in Munich, with some New Zealanders sprinkled about - and us three yanks.

Stumbling back to our tent late one night - it was great to hear Aussies calling out - More Tea? - which was the buzzword for beer.

And my dad absolutely loved Australia when he spent some time there in the Army during WWII. He had been in Med School - and was a little older than the average Army lad - so when they all headed to the pubs on leave - he would walk through the beautiful suburbs of say Brisbane, and the locals would invite him in for dinner and some good cheer.

And yes, meat - and other things at Whole Foods can be expensive. Many times - you can get the same quality at the brand supermarkets (Ralph's, Albertson's, Costco even) - but Whole Foods is very popular.

As for the Alamo - the greatest military significance is that the brave Texans who died there gave more time for the others being called up/drilled in the militia to better organize and ultimately defeat a very professional Mexican Army - lead by the dynamic General Santana.

It then became a rallying cry for all Yanks - as in: Remember the Alamo!!!!!!

Hey - when I was driving in Ireland - and other places where they drive on the "other" side of the road - such as Antigua in the Caribbean - I always made sure my window side shoulder (for the driver) was next to the yellow/center line - and it started you off on the right track.

Additionally - I then made sure to look in BOTH directions when starting out - as what you experienced is very common. One doesn't think the traffic is coming from the direction that they are used to seeing/looking


P.S. Baby sitting my cousin's two dogs (the "boys" - a very cute Pug and equally cute French Bulldog) - while they tend to their 3 year old twins (a boy and a girl and very energetic for sure) - and get ready to host Thanksgiving dinner. BTW - my sister is making pies for the gathering (two pumpkin and a Pecan) - and my wife is bringing her "famous" smoked salmon roll, while I will be going to Ralph's - for some fresh baguettes and bubbly.

Anyhow - the Bulldog (named Ike) - being a good boy - decided he had to take a trip outdoors (we spoil them and they sleep on the bed with us) - so I got up to let him out and couldn't get back to sleep.

The pug - "Sir" Henry - crawls under the covers like a cat and snuggles up to my wife - and Henry sleeps soundly well into the morning.

What a couple of characters they are, and when I take them for a walk, being the friendly little troopers they are - all the neighbors love to pet them.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 05:51 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement and Happy Thanksgiving to y'all. We have a big day lined up, lunch at my daughter's iHouse with some other international families and then the Longhorns vs TCU game tonight.

Tomorrow we're attempting an enormous road trip to Memphis. I have been out voted on taking the shorter Houston route to NOLA. I think my family have watched too many Chevy Chase movies & have an idealised notion of the great American road trip. So it may be a couple of days before I summon up the energy and wifi for an update.

Thanks for the driving tips Tom. After our first couple of close shaves (when turning into oncoming traffic!), my son in law has coined the reminders 'Righty Tighty' and 'Lefty Loosey' which is sung with great gusto every time my poor husband arrives at an intersection!
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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 06:20 AM
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En route or while you're in Memphis, do try to squeeze some time to head south (about 90 min.) on Highway 61 (revisited) to Clarksdale at the Crossroads of the Blues. Visit the Delta Blues Museum, eat ribs at Abe's (at the Crossroads - don't sell your soul) and revel in some of the best Americana you can find.

http://www.deltabluesmuseum.org/
http://www.abesbbq.com/

Oh, and lodgings: http://www.theshackupinn.com/
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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 07:48 AM
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LOL. Just can hear the chorus now as you pull up to a turn situation: Righty Tighty - Lefty Loosey. ..............Dad - what are you doing?????????????

When I was young - on road trips (back then it was two lane roads mainly - not so many Freeways) - we used to play a game and try to be the first to spot/yell out the state of the incoming cars.

Also - fyi - when you need to gas up (add petro) - look at the gas guage on the concole - and there should be a little arrow at the bottom that tells you which side of the car the gas tank is on. Might save some time at a busy gas station.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 10:36 AM
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I am really enjoying reading about your adventures.
Enjoy the rest of your trip and keep us posted!
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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 12:01 PM
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Welcome to the U.S.! First of all, let me congratulate you for not only driving on the other side of the road, but doing it in Texas! I’m reminded of me in 1969 driving a VW from Heathrow to downtown London with 3 screaming passengers. Truly, you are heros. I haven't figured out what one needs to do to get pulled over for speeding.

Maybe the full day of traveling canceled out your jet lag. You left and arrived at the same time!

"Like most of my American history, I learnt that from a movie."--Oh Dear! I’m sorry it wasn’t as exciting in person. Davy Crockett got pretty romanticized through Walt Disney.

I’m laughing out loud about the cheese! You must go to France next. Yes, the portions in many restaurants are ridiculous though.

If only you could take a few thousand squirrels back with you—they can eat a hole in a house!

Things are large in the U.S. but larger in Texas. I hope you get to experience a smaller scale. Small towns do exist! And not everyone eats like what you've described.

Can't wait to hear about your next stop. Wonderful report!
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Old Nov 22nd, 2012, 04:54 PM
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Glad you are enjoying your trip so far!
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 05:25 AM
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Hope you didn't get caught in that big 100 car pileup in Texas?
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 06:03 AM
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Tomsd, that's the first thing I thought about when seeing that info on the news this a.m.

Hope you are OK, Kwaussie.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 06:39 AM
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In...
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 09:41 AM
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And it looks like the Purple Frogs - TCU's Horned Toads - beat the Orange clas Texas "Shorthorns" yesterday. First time in 20 years. Adios UT coach Mack Brown?

http://lindyssports.com/college-foot...20-years/57272
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 12:54 PM
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I would love to travel with you!!! Love your spirit. Im a Texan and what fun to see it through your Aussie eyes. Welcome to Texas! BTW did you know that when horn toads get mad they squirt blood from their eyes? Must have worked at Daryl K Royal stadium yesterday!!
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 05:41 PM
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Thanks everyone for your concern for us. We also had people from home worrying that we'd been caught up in the crash but we knew nothing about it (being on vacation is a great way to miss the news). I still haven't read about what happened but my experience on the road so far has certainly made me afraid of an accident like that.

Yesterday we experienced our first ever American Thanksgiving. Given my belief in positive psychology and the power of gratitude, how wonderful it was to have a day specially set aside for being thankful! Sophie had arranged for some of her fellow international student friends to have lunch at her house so we packed up our car with lots of 'fixings' and headed off to create a Thanksgiving dinner for 14. Easier said than done in a student house with very few pots & pans and even less cutlery but with the addition of some awesome Italian and Dutch and Austrian dishes we ended up with a feast. Not only did we get to be grateful for the food but also for the opportunity to meet Sophie's friends and to experience something of the 'family' she has created here in Texas.

After dinner we donned our Longhorn's gear and headed off to the stadium to watch the Longhorns play the TCU Horned Frogs. It's hard to explain the atmosphere at a college football game. I've been to Geelong vs Collingwood games at the MCG, I've sat amongst the cowbells in the Waikato and I've watched Blackout rugby games at Eden Park on TV. I guess those experiences are the closest I can use as an analogy for folks at home. Except this isn't AFL or Tri Nations or Super Rugby. It's college football! The stadium hold 100,000 people. Yes, that many zeros! And apart from a handful of brave Horned Frogs dressed in purple, every last one of them were wearing orange!

Before the game the 420 members of the UT band play 'The Eyes of Texas Are Upon You' and everybody sings along. Then you curl your thumb, index finger and ring finger into your palm, extend the forefinger and pinky and chant 'Hook 'em Horns'. If a player goes down injured, everyone gives the hook 'em sign again until they recover. Every now and again, one side of the stadium yells 'Texas' and the other side responds 'Fight!'

At half time the band returns along with the cheerleaders. They create amazing formations of stars and cows and the map of Texas, all the while playing hits from 'Who'. Amazing.

As for the football game itself, I think maybe you have to be raised in the US to appreciate it. I found it way too stop/start. I just wanted a Jonah Lomu type to pick up the ball and keep running to the touch line but there was very little of that sort of excitement. There were a couple of intercepts that I would have chastised my netballers for because the wide receiver stepped backwards instead of forwards to take the pass and once I jumped up from my seat to celebrate a sure touch down only to discover he'd let the ball go straight through his hands. I imagine it's actually quite hard to judge the incoming behind that helmet.

Anyway, it was a great experience and the legion of burnt orange didn't seem too upset by the loss. I thought TCU were a much better team on the day.

As Taine said in his Thanksgiving prayer at lunchtime, we were just grateful to be with family, to meet new friends and eat turkey!
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Old Nov 23rd, 2012, 07:26 PM
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Sounds like a fantastic way to spend T-day and we're so glad you weren't in the horrid crash.

Keep it coming!
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Old Nov 24th, 2012, 01:42 AM
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What a great way to celebrate Thanksgiving. Have to think about how to say: Please pass the dressing and gravy - in say Dutch, or Italian - or German or maybe Spanish or French?

And LOL. Yes, American Football and Rugby are a wee bit different.

Have long been a Rugby fan - and played just a bit while at ye old law school - UC Hastings in San Francisco - but played a lot more football, both as a passer (Quarterback) and Receiver. Let me tell you - it's a lot harder to catch a pass in football - than a lateral in Rugby - but hey -in football - you have some pads while you don't in Rugby.

What's the old phrase: It takes Leather Balls to play Rugby.

In football - the incoming pass can be at different angles and speeds - and you also are waiting to get creamed by the defense - so sometimes what can look like an easy miss is bit more challenging.

Hope you saw some good catches at least?

Actually - the best part for some of us was after the Rugby match when the two sides drank beer together - and the "real" winner was the one who knew the most songs, which the "HOBS" - Hastings Old Boys - were pretty good at.

The team/club actually went over to tour Wales and played at Hastings there, as well as a couple places in England, and I believe they also played in Ireland.

Hope you enjoy the next leg - driving to NOLA is it?
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Old Nov 24th, 2012, 07:53 AM
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Great report - loving your perspective about American customs

(Tom - do you have some great urge to make every thread about you?? Not nice)
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Old Nov 24th, 2012, 07:55 AM
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janis - are you retiring back to England soon?
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