Trip Report to Pacific Northwest: August 2014
Oct 21st, 2014, 02:50 PM
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Trip Report to Pacific Northwest: August 2014
Stops included Bellingham (Fairhaven), San Juan Islands (Friday Harbor), Lummi Island, Mount Rainier National Park, Seattle, Whistler, and Vancouver
July 30 (Wednesday): USA to Vancouver to Bellingham (Fairhaven)
My spouse and I departed Newark, New Jersey’s Liberty International Airport (EWR) at 7:35 am on United Airlines non-stop flight 645 en route to Vancouver, Canada (YVR). The equipment was an Airbus 319, we were seated in 21D / 21F (an exit row with an empty middle seat between us). The airline permitted each passenger to check a bag for free. Non-alcoholic beverages were complimentary, but alcoholic drinks and food were an additional charge. (Only credit cards are accepted.) The aircraft provided no in-flight entertainment. We remitted frequent flyer miles for award tickets, and then we paid additionally for “more legroom” seats.
Our flight arrived at Vancouver International Airport (YVR) at 10:40 am. The flight lasted approximately six hours, but we gained three hours because of the time difference from flying west. The Vancouver Airport is interesting and educational. For example, you can view First Nations art installations (such as the famous Spirit of Haida Gwaii Jade Canoe or the many totem poles), stroll through one of two wooded indoor parks, explore interactive maps, or use a flight simulator. Many shopping and dining options exist, both pre-security and post-security. Wireless connectivity is free. Lodging is available on-site at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport.
We passed through immigration, claimed our bags, cleared customs, and then asked an airport greeter how to catch the Canada Line train into the city. Our destination was the Pacific Central Station, where trains (like Amtrak) and buses (like Greyhound, Pacific Coach Lines, and Bolt Bus) depart and arrive. Prior to leaving home, we booked tickets on-line on Greyhound from Vancouver to Bellingham, Washington. Because we used frequent flyer miles, and because we booked our tickets only nine months in advance (instead of 330 days!), award availability was low. Therefore, we booked a round-trip itinerary to / from Vancouver, rather than reserving an open-jaw itinerary arriving into Washington and departing from Vancouver as we had hoped. The train ride from the YVR-Airport Station to Waterfront Station took approximately 25 minutes and cost about $8 USD per person (for a two-zone ticket). We purchased our tickets from a vending machine on the train platform using a credit card, some (but not all) of the ticket machines accepted cash. No attendant is on-site from whom to purchase tickets personally. We were surprised upon boarding and exiting the train that no one checked / stamped / marked our tickets, nor did we pass through any automated ticket turnstiles. It was almost as if everyone rode free! We could not ride the train directly from the airport to the bus / train station; we changed trains at Waterfront Station to board the Expo Skytrain.
The Main Street-Science World Skytrain stop is located yards / meters from the Pacific Central Station. The station is located next to a small park, where you can wait for your transport. (However, the train / bus depot makes no departure announcements outside.) A Subway sandwich shop is located across the street from the park, but other nearby venues that serve drinks and food (such as the Ivanhoe Hostel) looked questionable.
Inside Pacific Central Station, several limited dining options exist: a Japanese cafe (which has counter seating but not at a sushi bar), a coffee / sandwich counter (with stand-up “seating”), and a not-yet-open A&W restaurant. The station has a small car rental office (Hertz), a small souvenir shop, and a newsstand / gift shop that sells reading material, drinks, sandwiches, and snacks. Most of the merchants accepted credit cards (with a minimum purchase requirement), as well as both Canadian and US currency. The station contains an ATM machine, as well as a small money exchange window. The bathrooms are old and require repairs and refurbishing. Although the station is not particularly visually appealing, we enjoyed seeing the old interior architectural details such as the wooden waiting benches, skylight, and clock.
Even though we booked our Greyhound tickets on-line (at an unbelievably low price of about $5 per person!), we stood in line to have an agent exchange our electronic tickets for paper ones, and to get baggage tags for our checked items (although passengers load their own items beneath the bus). Pacific Coach and Greyhound have customer service windows at the station, but Bolt Bus does not. We waited inside the station for a while before we passed through security at the appointed time. A security guard checked our tickets and passports, and then directed us to the outdoor waiting area. A roof covers the waiting area, although the sides are open to the elements. The station provides some beverage vending machines in the outdoor area, but none of the machines accepts credit cards. (The machines accept Canadian cash only.) Although no bathrooms exist in the outdoor waiting area, chairs are available in several different seating groupings, one of which seems reserved for Greyhound passengers. Inside this reserved area, various queueing lines exist for boarding, designated by numbers that correspond to a number on your ticket. Although this station is set up for an orderly and organized boarding process, the actual boarding process is haphazard. Greyhound offers passengers Priority Boarding for an additional charge of $5 USD, so the Vancouver station should load passengers in a designated order.
As we sat and waited for our bus, many other buses arrived and departed, but not the Greyhound from / to Bellingham scheduled to depart at 1:45 pm. We were disappointed that staff made no announcements regarding the delay. Furthermore, when we questioned various employees about the delay, they were surprised that the bus had not yet arrived or departed. No one knew the status of our bus. We began to hear rumors that the bus would be hours late, first because of mechanical issues, then because of traffic due to an accident.
Because we did not want to waste our entire day waiting for a Greyhound bus that might never arrive, we began to investigate other options. We noticed that the 2:15 pm BoltBus was ready to depart for Bellingham, and we decided to get on it. Because no BoltBus counter exists at which to buy tickets, we tried to access their website on our mobile device, but we could not connect. Therefore, we stood at the end of the line of boarding passengers to speak to the driver. The BoltBus driver agreed to transport us for $10 per person, payable in USD only. BoltBus vehicles are similar to Greyhound: comparable seating, bathroom on board, and Wi-Fi available.
The drive from Canada into the United States was uneventful, even with the border crossing. At the Blaine / Peace Arch border station, all bus passengers were required to disembark the bus, claim their bags, allow the agent to examine their passports, then scan / inspect their luggage. Although we have Global Entry border access, the station contains no expedited line. (We do not have NEXUS access, although that program would not have applied to us as bus passengers.) The station is utilitarian and contains only bathrooms and vending machines. After all passengers passed through immigration and customs, we re-stowed our luggage beneath the bus, re-boarded the vehicle, and finished the drive to Bellingham. The total trip takes about two hours. The bus drives in Canada for the first hour, and then drives in Washington state for the remainder of the trip. Disappointingly, the highway drive between Vancouver and Bellingham is not scenic (unlike the picturesque train trip that covers the same distance).
We had planned to arrive in Bellingham (Fairhaven Historic District) on Greyhound at the Bellingham Cruise Terminal Station and then walk to our hotel (the Fairhaven Village Inn. However, because we arrived on the BoltBus instead, the WhatCom Transit Authority’s (WTA) Cordata Station was located far from our hotel. The attendant at Cordata Station (located on Bellis Fair Parkway) called a Yellow taxi for us. Taxis wait in a designated queue in the parking lot area, because they cannot pick up or drop off passengers on the median where buses do. Our taxi to Fairhaven cost approximately $30 and took about 20+ minutes. (Our taxi driver gave us the choice of a more scenic but slower drive, or a longer but faster drive, and we chose his first option.)
We arrived in Fairhaven to attend the very end of the Wednesday Farmers Market on the Village Green (which closes at 5:00 pm). On Saturday evenings in summer, the town shows outdoor movies against a wall in the Village Green. The Green is also a lovely place to eat a picnic lunch or enjoy the open grassy space bordered by brick pathways with benches beneath and pergolas covered with new grapevines. We explored the town’s various shops and restaurants, and we bought supplies at the Haggen Fairview Market. (Haggen is a large grocery store chain that is open 24 hours and has a pharmacy.) We ate dinner at the Fairhaven location of Jalapenos Mexican Grill. (See my separate review on Tripadvisor.) We stayed at the Fairhaven Village Inn for three nights in a Suite. (See my separate review.)
July 31 (Thursday): Bellingham (Fairhaven) to Friday Harbor (San Juan Island)
We stayed in Fairhaven so that we could take a whale-watching day cruise and visit San Juan Island. We chose San Juan Cruises because they allowed us to spend some time in Friday Harbor (see my separate review on Tripadvisor). Other sailing options exist that depart from both the Bellingham Harbor / Bellingham Cruise Terminal (such as Gato Verde, Zodiac Schooner, and Leap Frog Water Taxi) and Squalicum Harbor (Island Mariner). The Alaska Ferry, which departs from the Bellingham Terminal, sails for the Inside Passage on Friday evenings at 6:00 pm. The ferry terminal (and the bus and train terminals), must be busy on Fridays afternooons, but they were nearly deserted on the Thursday that we visited. The ferry terminal features some small exhibits to peruse while you wait, and a small cafe serves drinks and snacks (counter service only).
We spent about six hours on the whale-watching cruise, during which time we enjoyed the views of the coastline, and particularly of Mount Baker (from different vantage points). The highlight of the day was watching a pod of several orca whales. We also spied some seals and a bald eagle on our cruise.
During our break from the cruise, we walked around Friday Harbor for approximately two hours. Friday Harbor is the only “real” town on all of the San Juan Islands. After we disembarked, we walked through Fairweather Park, with its totem pole like sculpture, to and through the main streets of Friday Harbor. The town features shops, restaurants, art galleries, accommodations, an aquarium, a school, library, grocery store, hardware store, and gas station. Because Friday Harbor has a large marina, it is a popular place for boaters. You can also arrive in Friday Harbor via ferry (either with or without your vehicle). We had drinks at the Cask & Schooner Public House, and we sampled ice cream at Friday Harbor Ice Cream Company (which accepts cash only).
Back on land in Fairhaven, we ate dinner at Big Pie. (See my separate review on Tripadvisor.)
August 1 (Friday): Bellingham (Fairhaven) to Lummi Island
To pick up our car, we took a taxi from the Fairhaven Village Inn to the Bellingham International Airport (BLI). The taxi from the hotel to the airport cost about $40 and took about 20 minutes. The Bellingham Airport is small, but nicely appointed. Besides Alaska Air, many small airlines operate from the airport (such as Allegiant Air, Island Air, Northwest Sky Ferry, San Juan Airlines, and Sun Country Airlines). Halibut Henry’s, a combination cafe / newsstand, is located outside of security. (The secure area offers a full-service restaurant called Scotty Brown’s.) Taxis are available at the airport (be sure to stand in the correct queue). All of the major car rental counters are present (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise / Alamo, Hertz). Rental cars are present on-site at the airport, so you walk to the rental car parking lot, which is adjacent to passenger / public parking. We rented a car from Avis. Although Avis operates a counter at the Bellingham Ferry Terminal, it is staffed only on Friday afternoons when the Alaska ferry runs, but even then, customers are shuttled to the airport to pick up their cars.
Before we began the driving portion of our trip, we drove (less than a 5-minute drive from the airport) to Fred Meyer grocery / super store to buy supplies. Our next destination – Lummi Island - was not far from Bellingham, but it required a car to get there. Initially, we inquired about the Leap Frog Water Taxi, but the cost was nearly $200 each way because it was a private charter. Instead, we rented a car, and drove the 12-mile, 20-minute trip from the airport to the Gooseberry Point ferry dock. No passenger services exist right at the dock, although a trailer across the parking lot may contain some amenities. The cost for the ferry is $13 USD for a car and its driver, plus $7 for each additional passenger. Passengers pay the fee in cash while they ride the ferry. (The return trip from Lummi Island to Gooseberry Point is free.) The ferry to Lummi Island runs every 20 minutes on weekdays, and every hour on weekends. (Check the schedule on-line for the exact times.) The ferry holds about 20 cars (less if larger vehicles like trucks are aboard). The ferry also transports foot passengers, bicyclists, and motorcyclists. The ferry staff are adept at loading and unloading cars, and at maximizing the number of vehicles aboard. The “ride” takes about 10 minutes, and you must remain seated in your vehicle because the cars are parked closely together.
When we arrived on Lummi Island, it was still too early to check into our hotel, so we drove around the island. It was interesting to see quiet island life with its two churches, library, fire station, general store (The Islander), restaurants (Beach Store Cafe, Willows Inn, and TapRoot Cafe), school, and post office. We ate lunch at the Beach Store Cafe, followed by an incredible dinner at the Willows Inn. (See my separate reviews on Tripadvisor.) We stayed at the Willows Inn in the Haven Suite for one night.
August 2 (Saturday): Lummi Island to Mount Rainier to Ashford
We rose early to begin our drive from Lummi Island to Mount Rainier. First, we boarded the car ferry back to Gooseberry Point. Services at the ferry dock on the Lummi Island side, while not luxurious, are more extensive than those services available at Gooseberry Point, including bathrooms, a vending machine, and a covered bench on which to wait. On our way to I-5 South, we stopped at a mini-market near the Silver Reef Casino.
After we drove for approximately three hours, we stopped for lunch at Kelly’s Mercantile in Enumclaw (see my separate review on Tripadvisor). Enumclaw is a good-sized town that contains services such as restaurants, shops, hardware store, grocery store, and gas stations.
We entered Mount Rainier National Park at the northeast corner (Sunrise entrance) and drove through much of the park on a three-hour route. The park entrance fee costs $15 USD per car. We tried to visit the Sunrise Visitors Center / Day Lodge, but an electronic message board at the road turn-off stated that the parking lots were full and to expect more than an hour wait time. Because it was approximately 2:00 pm and we had no time to spare, we headed for our second choice, Paradise. We parked our car and walked around at two different locations near Paradise, including the Henry M. Jackson Visitors Center. The wildflowers at Paradise were in their blooming season, so we saw some colorful alpine fields. The Paradise area contains lodging, restaurants (both full-service and casual), a visitor center, and picnic areas. We finished our drive through the park and exited at the Nisqually entrance (near Longmire).
The drive was truly spectacular; however, only the passenger was able to enjoy it, because the driver had to keep his eyes on the road, which was windy and treacherous at times! Next time, we will hire someone to drive us around, or perhaps take an organized tour, because the park views are gorgeous, including the glaciers, the old-growth forest, and the wildflower meadows.
After we checked into our hotel for one night, Alexander’s Inn (see my separate review), we drove to the “town” of Ashford, where we bought some supplies at the general store, and we investigated our options for dinner that night. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped for a drink at the Copper Creek Inn (see my separate review on Tripadvisor). We ate dinner at Alexander’s Inn because it was convenient.
August 3 (Sunday): Mount Rainier (Ashford) to Seattle
We enjoyed breakfast at Alexander’s Inn before we checked out and began our 2-hour, 90-mile drive from Ashford to downtown Seattle. En route, we stopped in Graham at a Safeway grocery store to buy supplies for the time that we would be in Seattle. Graham has several strip malls that contain restaurants, drug stores, grocery stores, and other shops.
We arrived at our hotel for the next three nights, the Homewood Suites Seattle Convention Center Pike Street (see my separate review on Tripadvisor), around noon. We returned our rental car to the Avis outlet next door to the hotel. Before we embarked on sightseeing at Pike Place Market, we ate lunch near our hotel at Sitka & Spruce (see my separate review). We had drinks at Place Pigalle in Pike Place Market, and we ate dinner near our hotel at Terra Plata (see my separate
August 4 (Monday): Seattle
We rose early so that we would arrive at the Space Needle before the crowds. After a quick breakfast at the Homewood Suites (included with our room rate), we took a 10-minute, one-way monorail trip from Westlake Center Station to Seattle Center Station for $2.25 USD per person (payable in cash to the cashier on-board the train). The monorail, built for the 1962 World’s Fair, deposited us on the grounds of Seattle Center, the park that the city built for that same World’s Fair. Seattle Center is home to the Space Needle, Chihuly Gardens and Glass, the (Frank Gehry-designed) Experience Music Project / Science Fiction Museum (EMP / SFM), Children’s Museum, International Fountain, and the Seattle opera and ballet venues.
We purchased a combination ticket for the Space Needle and Chihuly Gardens. First, we visited the Space Needle (see my separate review). Next, we visited nearby Chihuly Garden and Glass (see my separate review). Inside Chihuly Gardens (like inside the Space Needle), a staff member takes your photograph in several different locations. Afterwards, use the bar code that the staff member provides at a kiosk to view your photos and e-mail them to yourself (complimentary).
After we visited those two tourist attractions, we walked through the Seattle Art Museum’s (SAM) Olympic Sculpture Park to the waterfront area. We stopped for drinks at Paddy Coyne’s Irish Pub on the waterfront, and then we walked for two miles along the waterside. Eventually, our walk ended in Pioneer Square, where we ate lunch at FX McCrory’s (see my separate review).
We took the Central Link Light Rail home from Pioneer Square to Westlake Station, and then walked a few blocks (slightly uphill) back to our hotel. Light Rail trains run every 7 to 10 minutes (depending on the time of day and day of the week), and electronic status boards clearly indicate the arrival times of the next few incoming trains. We used a credit card to purchase our transportation tickets from a vending machine. (No live ticket agent is available.) You can purchase either per-ride tickets (for about $2 USD one-way), or you can purchase an unlimited day pass (for about $6 USD). On some station maps, it seems that a Light Rail stop is located at the Convention Center, but that same stop did not exist on the maps inside the trains (and the trains did not stop there).
That night, we ate dinner at Mamnoon (see our separate review on Tripadvisor).
August 5 (Tuesday): Seattle
After a quick breakfast at the Homewood Suites (included with our room rate), we explored Pike Place Market and Pioneer Square. The market opened in 1907, and it is one of the oldest continuously operated public farmers markets in the country. The market is built on the edge of a steep hill (the Pike Hill Climb), with several levels of merchants / stores / stalls below the street level. Over 500 merchants are spread throughout eight different buildings with names like the Main Market, Triangle Market, Sanitary Market (named because back in the day, no horses were permitted inside), North Arcade, Corner Market, and Economy Market.
We wanted to see “flying fish” at the market, but although we watched and waited at the Pike Place Fish stall, we never witnessed that spectacle. (Fishmongers throw large salmon and other fish to each other instead of passing them by hand. When a customer purchases a fish, an employee hurls it over the counter top, where another employee catches it and wraps it.) Instead, we enjoyed looking at the seafood, baked goods, produce, cut flowers, and specialty shops. Outdoor stalls on Pike Street also house local artists who sell their handicrafts and other souvenirs. Dining options (both casual and sit-down) abound in and around the market, such as Matt’s, Lowell’s, and Place Pigalle. The original Starbucks is located on Pike Street, which is the street adjacent to the actual market. Another top attraction in the market is Rachel (the bronze pig statue), as well as the market sign itself.
Our next stop was Pioneer Square, which is one of the few historic districts in the city of Seattle. Pioneer Square began in the 1850s, where merchants and residents established their businesses and homes. Unfortunately, many of the structures were located in the floodplain, and every day at high tide, they properties were under water. We took Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour (see my separate review), during which we were able to descend below the current city streets to view the historical origins of the city. The iron and glass pergola in Pioneer Square is a “must-see” (it reminded us of an old Parisienne subway stop), as well as Waterfall Park. In addition, Pioneer Square contains some interesting old signs / business marquees, such as the sign at the old State Hotel that offers rooms for 75 cents!
We tried to eat lunch at Salumi Cured Meats (owned by Mario Batali’s father), but the lines were long (approximately two hours wait time). Fortunately, we had an alternative plan to eat lunch at Bar Sajor (see my separate review on Tripadvisor).
After lunch, we visited the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park (in the site of the former Cadillac Hotel).
On our way back to the Homewood Suites, we stopped for drinks at Six Arms in Capitol Hill / First Hill near our hotel. In the late afternoon, we made a quick stop at the complimentary dinner and drinks buffet at our hotel.
In the evening, we boarded the Light Rail train at the Westlake Station and rode it to the Stadium Station stop (which is located between Century Link and Safeco Fields). We attended the Seattle Mariners versus Atlanta Braves baseball game at Safeco Field. Although we wanted to see the game, we also wanted to sample some of the stadium food that we had heard about. The food was excellent, with great variety and high quality. The park sells non-traditional items such as Thai food, Chinese food, sushi, vegan / vegetarian / gluten-free dishes, seafood and chowder, in addition to traditional ballpark food like hotdogs and popcorn. Local chef Ethan Stowell created food for Sound Seafood like crab roll, fish and chips, and po’ boys, items for Edgar’s Cantina like carne asada, pulled pork, and lengua (beef tongue) tacos, and options for Swingin’ Wings like “Dirty Tots” (potato nuggets topped with local cheddar, pork belly, and pickled peppers). Overall, the stadium prices food adequately, but not drinks. Beverages cost approximately $5 for a plastic 16.9-oz. bottle of Dasani water and about $9 for a domestic draft beer.
August 6 (Wednesday): Seattle to Vancouver to Whistler
We traveled from the Homewood Suites to the Amtrak Station on King Street via taxi, which the hotel summoned for us. The King Street Station is located only 1.5 miles from the hotel, so the drive took less than five minutes at that early hour of the day. Because most passengers held electronic tickets, we queued in an outdoor line to check our bags. (The actual check-in desk is located inside the station for passengers without tickets.) Amtrak staff weighed and marked each bag carefully. Amtrak permits each passenger to check two bags up to 50 pounds each, and to carry on two smaller bags. We booked our tickets on-line, and Amtrak sent us a confirmation e-mail, including instructions to print our tickets at a Quik-Trak kiosk. Amtrak recommends that guest with checked baggage arrive about 45 minutes prior to departure time.
The inside of King Street Station is a gleaming Art-Deco masterpiece from another era. However, the station does not any real amenities for travelers other than bathrooms and seating; it offers no newsstand, cafe, or restaurant (although it has a few vending machines). Independent shops and restaurants near the station offer food, drinks, and merchandise.
We boarded the 7:20 am Amtrak Cascades train 510 at Seattle’s King Street Station en route to Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station. The train departed Seattle about 30 minutes late on the day that we traveled. (Amtrak did little to keep passengers informed of the delay.) Seattle is not the train’s origin; the ride begins in Eugene Oregon, so it must have lost time along the way. Although passengers reserve a ticket and a class of service, they do not have a specific seat assignment until they speak to the agents in the waiting area of the station (not the agent at the check-in desk). In the waiting area, Amtrak sets up two counters: one window for business class passengers, and the other for economy class. Passengers wait in line to see an agent, who pastes a seat assignment sticker on their boarding passes. Boarding occurs by class, with business followed by economy.
We splurged on business-class train tickets because the price difference was only about $25 USD more per person, for a total one-way fare of approximately $100 per person. On the day that we traveled (north), Amtrak reserved the first two coaches for business-class passengers. In business class, the seating configuration was 1-2, with the 1s on the water side (the preferable view). We chose to sit in rows 1 and 2, so our seats faced each other (the passenger in row 1 rides backwards). Only rows 1 and 2 in Business class face each other; all other rows (perhaps rows 3 through 7 in Business) contain forward facing seats. The aisle space between the seats is wide, although the pitch between the rows is comparable to airline seats. Business seats had cup holders and tray tables (except for the first two rows), and Wi-Fi was available. (However, we have since read that Amtrak will discontinue Wi-Fi at the end of September 2014. We are not sure if no longer exists, or if Amtrak will charge passengers for access.) A rack at the end of each business class coach holds larger carry-on baggage. Passengers can carry on bags similar in size to what they carry onto an airplane; however, space is limited, and not enough exists for everyone to carry on their larger bags. (Limited overhead storage also exists for smaller items such as backpacks.)
Overhead TV monitors in each train coach did not broadcast anything! The intent is probably to have them show your trip progress, as airlines do with their real-time flight information, but they were blank during our trip. The engine coach in front of our coach contained a bathroom. The first and second coaches held business-class passengers. The third coach contained the Lounge Car, with seating at tables for two or four people. However, the train engineer and other staff members claimed at least three of the tables for the duration of the trip, which seemed unfair to the passengers when so few tables were present. The Bistro Car was located next in line, and it featured a counter to purchase food and beverages and some additional limited seating.
The train stopped about five times between Seattle and Vancouver on our 4.5-hour journey. The train stopped in Edmonds, Everett, Stanwood, Mount Vernon, and Bellingham to pick up and discharge passengers. Most “stations” are just outdoor waiting areas atop platforms. Staff on-board the train announce each stop, and they walk around to check on passengers. When you board the train, the attendants place a small card indicating your departure station above your seat, so they can monitor which passengers must exit at which location. We enjoyed the scenery on the train trip, even though we had already seen amazing views in the San Juan Islands and in Mount Rainier. We had heard that the train trip was a “must see”, and the visuals were appealing.
When we arrived at Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station, the disembarkation process was illogical. First, passengers with hand baggage only could disembark. Next, the remainder of passengers waited for staff to off-load all baggage. The business passengers disembarked first, and we walked from the front of the train (near the immigration building) to the very rear of the train to claim our bags. Luggage is stacked in two rows, with a narrow empty gauntlet between the rows where passengers walk down to look for their bags, and then walk back to the front of the train after they locate and claim their bags. This process repeats as new passengers join the procedure, with passengers and luggage bumping into each other as they search for similar looking bags. If the staff placed the off-loaded luggage near the front of the train (instead of at the rear), passengers would not double back and run into each other. We disembarked, claimed our bags, and passed through immigration and customs.
We waited at Vancouver Pacific Central Station for our Thruway Greyhound bus service to Whistler, which we could only book as part of the full train itinerary. When the bus arrived (presumably from a location to the south), it was nearly full to capacity, so we claimed the front row for ourselves. Posted placards indicate to reserve that row for handicapped / elderly patrons, but no other option for two seats existed. Even though we had business-class seats on the train portion of our itinerary, we did not have any priority boarding privileges on the bus portion of our trip. However, because of luck, we ended up seated in the front row, which offered preferable seats.
The scenery from the front seat of the bus as we traveled the two hours from Vancouver to Whistler was spectacular! We regret not taking the Rocky Mountaineer train on the Sea-to-Sky climb from Vancouver to Whistler to enjoy the view even more thoroughly, but the timing and availability made it difficult. Greyhound made several stops prior to our final destination in Whistler Village. The bus made two stops in Squamish (one at the Visitors Center and the other at a tiny but official Greyhound station), and another stop in Whistler Creekside. The bus dropped us at the central transportation area for Whistler Village, which was a short walk (even with luggage) from our hotel for the next two nights, the Hilton Whistler (see my separate review.)
We walked around Whistler Village and Upper Village on the pedestrian-only Village Stroll, where we window-shopped and made purchases at the grocery store and the liquor store. (You cannot purchase alcoholic beverages at a grocery store in Canada; you must purchase it at a special store.)
We ate lunch at Black’s Pub (at the Sundial Hotel), and dinner at La Bocca (see my separate reviews on both restaurants on Tripadvisor), followed by dessert at the Cinnamon Bear Bar at the Hilton.
August 7 (Thursday): Whistler
We spent the day on Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains. We purchased our gondola tickets from the concierge at the Hilton, and we charged their cost to our room. The Peak Adventure tickets cost about $50 per person, and they granted us use of all operating gondolas and lifts for the entire day. (Not all gondolas and chair lifts operate during the off-peak summer season.) Be aware of promotional discounts for Peak Adventure tickets. If you purchase your pass on-line at least five days prior to your arrival, you receive a bonus second day of gondola use free.
We traveled to the top of Whistler Mountain using the Whistler Village Gondola, which features fully enclosed cabins that hold eight passengers and take 30 minutes to reach the top. The Village Gondola first makes a stop halfway up the mountain, where many downhill mountain-bikers disembark. We rode to the top, where we explored on foot, including the Roundhouse Lodge and the Olympic medals platform. We took a short hike (downhill) to board the Peak Express chair lift (an open-air quad lift) to the top of Whistler Peak, where we hiked around and enjoyed the tremendous views, including the unique stone structure at the very top. We then took the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola across the traverse to Blackcomb Mountain (see my separate review of the gondola on Tripadvisor).
We ate lunch at Christine’s in the Rendezvous Lodge, where we enjoyed the view and the food (see my separate review on Christine’s). We hiked around the top of Blackcomb Mountain before we descended to the Upper Village. We rode the Solar / Sun Coaster Express chair lift to the Wizard Express chair lift. Both lifts are open-air quads, although some chairs on the Wizard have a clear plexiglass top cover that you can raise or lower.
We leisurely walked on the Village Stroll back to Whistler Village. We stopped for drinks at the Beacon Pub (at the Crystal Lodge). Later, we ate dinner at Araxi (at the Blackstone Lodge). (See my separate reviews on both restaurants.)
We wish that we had another day to spend in Whistler! We would have tried downhill mountain biking, scrambling, heli-hiking, or the bobsled that remains from the 2010 Winter Olympic Games. You can also kayak, rock climb, zip-line, or attend a dinner barbecue at a mountain-top day-lodge.
August 8 (Friday): Whistler to Vancouver
We ate an early breakfast at the Cinnamon Bear Bistro at the Hilton (included with our room rate). Before we departed the United States, we made an on-line reservation for a one-way bus transfer on Pacific Coach Lines (also called the Whistler Express) from Whistler to Vancouver. Our tickets price included a van transfer from the Hilton to the transportation center, which occurred about 20 minutes prior to our bus. (The van transfer was unnecessary for us. We could have walked more quickly and easily because our hotel was so close.) We joined a large group of travelers on the full-size coach, which departed Whistler at 9:00 am and arrived in Vancouver at about 11:00 am. The bus driver dropped us near Vancouver’s Burrard Skytrain Station, and we walked a few blocks to our hotel for one night, the Hampton Inn and Suites Vancouver (see my separate review on Tripadvisor).
Because we had only one day to see Vancouver, we chose our sights carefully. We visited Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, Chinatown, Gastown, the Steam Clock, and Canada Place. The Sun-Yat Sen Garden was attractive but compact, and the admission price was a bit expensive for the size of the property. Further, you could view much of the site from the adjacent (free) public park. Chinatown was disappointing as compared to neighborhoods we have visited in other cities. (We had hoped to see a bustling local Chinese market.) Gastown is the oldest part of Vancouver, and it features brick buildings built in the late 1800s as well as the famous clock that steams and chimes at regular intervals. Canada Place is a giant convention center / cruise ship terminal. We regret that we did not have time to visit Stanley Park (which we drove through en route to and from Whistler), Granville Island Public Market, Grouse Mountain, and the Capilano Suspension Bridge.
We ate lunch at Jimmy’s Tap House (at the Westin) and dinner at the Back Forty (see my separate review on the Back Forty on Tripadvisor).
August 9 (Saturday): Vancouver to Newark, New Jersey
We ate breakfast at the Hampton Inn Vancouver (included with our room rate) before we checked out. We planned to use the hotel’s complimentary shuttle service to travel between the hotel and Waterfront Station, but we did not wake early enough (at 7:00 am) to make our reservation. However, we were lucky enough to fit on someone else’s shuttle (cruise ship passengers en route to the port, in the same direction as us). When we arrived at Waterfront Station, we purchased tickets to the airport at a discounted weekend rate. When we first arrived in Vancouver ten days prior (during peak weekday hours), our train tickets from the airport to the city center cost approximately $8 USD per person. However, our return tickets to the airport cost only $2.50 USD per person because we traveled back during off-peak weekend hours. A helpful Vancouver city greeter positioned in the Waterfront Station helped us purchase our train tickets from the vending machine. (No human ticket seller is available.) In the early 1900s, the Canadian Pacific Railway built Waterfront Station, which features a colonnaded façade on the exterior, and murals and a coffered ceiling inside. The station offers casual counter-service dining options, souvenir shops, newsstand, and one full-service restaurant that offers both indoor and outdoor seating.
The ride on the Canada Line train to the Vancouver Airport YVR Station took about 25 minutes. We arrived about three hours prior to our flight, which was more than ample time. Departing American passengers clear United States customs and immigration at the Vancouver Airport, so they technically arrive home on domestic flights. First, we checked in with an airline agent at Air Canada for our boarding passes, and then we took our baggage through the customs screening, after which time some passengers checked their luggage (we carried on). The US departure terminal contains shops, restaurants, and seating areas, as well as art exhibits and a children’s playground. We spent our time waiting at Canuck’s Bar & Grill, where we ate some tasty airport food (really!).
We departed on Air Canada flight 548 at 4:15 pm. Although Air Canada is a Star Alliance partner, it does not afford United silver customers any reciprocal status benefits. We did not check our luggage, but cost $25 CAD per bag. The Air Canada aircraft on our return flight offered in-seat back entertainment, which was not available on the United flight on which we arrived. United flight. Two flights from EWR to Vancouver occur each day; one flight occurs on United equipment and the other flight occurs on Air Canada equipment. The Air Canada equipment does not offer seating with additional legroom like the
Air Canada treated us poorly between the time we made our reservation and several weeks prior to flying. When we booked (nine months ahead), we paid for exit row seats (row 17A / 17C) on the Air Canada Airbus 319. However, a few weeks before we departed, the airline reassigned our seats and refunded our money, without an e-mail or a telephone call to inform us. (We found out when we viewed our credit card statement and noticed some credits from Air Canada. However, it was difficult to discern what the credit was for because the amount did not equal the amount of the original debit; and the difference was more than the usual foreign exchange fluctuation.) The airline moved us one row back to row 18A / 18C, but because no one sat between us, the seating was preferable to the original, and it did not cost extra. We arrived at Newark’s Liberty International Airport just after midnight (a little over five hours of flight time).
Conclusion
We loved our trip to the Pacific Northwest! For the past several years, we have traveled farther afield to places like Southeast Asia, so we had a slight concern that this trip might not feel “exotic” enough for us. While it is true that everyone spoke English, and that we saw lots of chain hotels, restaurants, and stores, the beauty of the scenery (all those snow-capped mountains beneath brilliantly blue sunny skies) made up for it, along with the friendly people we met. We especially liked the more rustic and / or remote locales that we visited, like the San Juan Islands, Mount Rainier, and Whistler. We enjoyed our trip to the Pacific Northwest so much that we are investigating other locations in Washington, Oregon, and Western Canada that we can visit next summer!
July 30 (Wednesday): USA to Vancouver to Bellingham (Fairhaven)
My spouse and I departed Newark, New Jersey’s Liberty International Airport (EWR) at 7:35 am on United Airlines non-stop flight 645 en route to Vancouver, Canada (YVR). The equipment was an Airbus 319, we were seated in 21D / 21F (an exit row with an empty middle seat between us). The airline permitted each passenger to check a bag for free. Non-alcoholic beverages were complimentary, but alcoholic drinks and food were an additional charge. (Only credit cards are accepted.) The aircraft provided no in-flight entertainment. We remitted frequent flyer miles for award tickets, and then we paid additionally for “more legroom” seats.
Our flight arrived at Vancouver International Airport (YVR) at 10:40 am. The flight lasted approximately six hours, but we gained three hours because of the time difference from flying west. The Vancouver Airport is interesting and educational. For example, you can view First Nations art installations (such as the famous Spirit of Haida Gwaii Jade Canoe or the many totem poles), stroll through one of two wooded indoor parks, explore interactive maps, or use a flight simulator. Many shopping and dining options exist, both pre-security and post-security. Wireless connectivity is free. Lodging is available on-site at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport.
We passed through immigration, claimed our bags, cleared customs, and then asked an airport greeter how to catch the Canada Line train into the city. Our destination was the Pacific Central Station, where trains (like Amtrak) and buses (like Greyhound, Pacific Coach Lines, and Bolt Bus) depart and arrive. Prior to leaving home, we booked tickets on-line on Greyhound from Vancouver to Bellingham, Washington. Because we used frequent flyer miles, and because we booked our tickets only nine months in advance (instead of 330 days!), award availability was low. Therefore, we booked a round-trip itinerary to / from Vancouver, rather than reserving an open-jaw itinerary arriving into Washington and departing from Vancouver as we had hoped. The train ride from the YVR-Airport Station to Waterfront Station took approximately 25 minutes and cost about $8 USD per person (for a two-zone ticket). We purchased our tickets from a vending machine on the train platform using a credit card, some (but not all) of the ticket machines accepted cash. No attendant is on-site from whom to purchase tickets personally. We were surprised upon boarding and exiting the train that no one checked / stamped / marked our tickets, nor did we pass through any automated ticket turnstiles. It was almost as if everyone rode free! We could not ride the train directly from the airport to the bus / train station; we changed trains at Waterfront Station to board the Expo Skytrain.
The Main Street-Science World Skytrain stop is located yards / meters from the Pacific Central Station. The station is located next to a small park, where you can wait for your transport. (However, the train / bus depot makes no departure announcements outside.) A Subway sandwich shop is located across the street from the park, but other nearby venues that serve drinks and food (such as the Ivanhoe Hostel) looked questionable.
Inside Pacific Central Station, several limited dining options exist: a Japanese cafe (which has counter seating but not at a sushi bar), a coffee / sandwich counter (with stand-up “seating”), and a not-yet-open A&W restaurant. The station has a small car rental office (Hertz), a small souvenir shop, and a newsstand / gift shop that sells reading material, drinks, sandwiches, and snacks. Most of the merchants accepted credit cards (with a minimum purchase requirement), as well as both Canadian and US currency. The station contains an ATM machine, as well as a small money exchange window. The bathrooms are old and require repairs and refurbishing. Although the station is not particularly visually appealing, we enjoyed seeing the old interior architectural details such as the wooden waiting benches, skylight, and clock.
Even though we booked our Greyhound tickets on-line (at an unbelievably low price of about $5 per person!), we stood in line to have an agent exchange our electronic tickets for paper ones, and to get baggage tags for our checked items (although passengers load their own items beneath the bus). Pacific Coach and Greyhound have customer service windows at the station, but Bolt Bus does not. We waited inside the station for a while before we passed through security at the appointed time. A security guard checked our tickets and passports, and then directed us to the outdoor waiting area. A roof covers the waiting area, although the sides are open to the elements. The station provides some beverage vending machines in the outdoor area, but none of the machines accepts credit cards. (The machines accept Canadian cash only.) Although no bathrooms exist in the outdoor waiting area, chairs are available in several different seating groupings, one of which seems reserved for Greyhound passengers. Inside this reserved area, various queueing lines exist for boarding, designated by numbers that correspond to a number on your ticket. Although this station is set up for an orderly and organized boarding process, the actual boarding process is haphazard. Greyhound offers passengers Priority Boarding for an additional charge of $5 USD, so the Vancouver station should load passengers in a designated order.
As we sat and waited for our bus, many other buses arrived and departed, but not the Greyhound from / to Bellingham scheduled to depart at 1:45 pm. We were disappointed that staff made no announcements regarding the delay. Furthermore, when we questioned various employees about the delay, they were surprised that the bus had not yet arrived or departed. No one knew the status of our bus. We began to hear rumors that the bus would be hours late, first because of mechanical issues, then because of traffic due to an accident.
Because we did not want to waste our entire day waiting for a Greyhound bus that might never arrive, we began to investigate other options. We noticed that the 2:15 pm BoltBus was ready to depart for Bellingham, and we decided to get on it. Because no BoltBus counter exists at which to buy tickets, we tried to access their website on our mobile device, but we could not connect. Therefore, we stood at the end of the line of boarding passengers to speak to the driver. The BoltBus driver agreed to transport us for $10 per person, payable in USD only. BoltBus vehicles are similar to Greyhound: comparable seating, bathroom on board, and Wi-Fi available.
The drive from Canada into the United States was uneventful, even with the border crossing. At the Blaine / Peace Arch border station, all bus passengers were required to disembark the bus, claim their bags, allow the agent to examine their passports, then scan / inspect their luggage. Although we have Global Entry border access, the station contains no expedited line. (We do not have NEXUS access, although that program would not have applied to us as bus passengers.) The station is utilitarian and contains only bathrooms and vending machines. After all passengers passed through immigration and customs, we re-stowed our luggage beneath the bus, re-boarded the vehicle, and finished the drive to Bellingham. The total trip takes about two hours. The bus drives in Canada for the first hour, and then drives in Washington state for the remainder of the trip. Disappointingly, the highway drive between Vancouver and Bellingham is not scenic (unlike the picturesque train trip that covers the same distance).
We had planned to arrive in Bellingham (Fairhaven Historic District) on Greyhound at the Bellingham Cruise Terminal Station and then walk to our hotel (the Fairhaven Village Inn. However, because we arrived on the BoltBus instead, the WhatCom Transit Authority’s (WTA) Cordata Station was located far from our hotel. The attendant at Cordata Station (located on Bellis Fair Parkway) called a Yellow taxi for us. Taxis wait in a designated queue in the parking lot area, because they cannot pick up or drop off passengers on the median where buses do. Our taxi to Fairhaven cost approximately $30 and took about 20+ minutes. (Our taxi driver gave us the choice of a more scenic but slower drive, or a longer but faster drive, and we chose his first option.)
We arrived in Fairhaven to attend the very end of the Wednesday Farmers Market on the Village Green (which closes at 5:00 pm). On Saturday evenings in summer, the town shows outdoor movies against a wall in the Village Green. The Green is also a lovely place to eat a picnic lunch or enjoy the open grassy space bordered by brick pathways with benches beneath and pergolas covered with new grapevines. We explored the town’s various shops and restaurants, and we bought supplies at the Haggen Fairview Market. (Haggen is a large grocery store chain that is open 24 hours and has a pharmacy.) We ate dinner at the Fairhaven location of Jalapenos Mexican Grill. (See my separate review on Tripadvisor.) We stayed at the Fairhaven Village Inn for three nights in a Suite. (See my separate review.)
July 31 (Thursday): Bellingham (Fairhaven) to Friday Harbor (San Juan Island)
We stayed in Fairhaven so that we could take a whale-watching day cruise and visit San Juan Island. We chose San Juan Cruises because they allowed us to spend some time in Friday Harbor (see my separate review on Tripadvisor). Other sailing options exist that depart from both the Bellingham Harbor / Bellingham Cruise Terminal (such as Gato Verde, Zodiac Schooner, and Leap Frog Water Taxi) and Squalicum Harbor (Island Mariner). The Alaska Ferry, which departs from the Bellingham Terminal, sails for the Inside Passage on Friday evenings at 6:00 pm. The ferry terminal (and the bus and train terminals), must be busy on Fridays afternooons, but they were nearly deserted on the Thursday that we visited. The ferry terminal features some small exhibits to peruse while you wait, and a small cafe serves drinks and snacks (counter service only).
We spent about six hours on the whale-watching cruise, during which time we enjoyed the views of the coastline, and particularly of Mount Baker (from different vantage points). The highlight of the day was watching a pod of several orca whales. We also spied some seals and a bald eagle on our cruise.
During our break from the cruise, we walked around Friday Harbor for approximately two hours. Friday Harbor is the only “real” town on all of the San Juan Islands. After we disembarked, we walked through Fairweather Park, with its totem pole like sculpture, to and through the main streets of Friday Harbor. The town features shops, restaurants, art galleries, accommodations, an aquarium, a school, library, grocery store, hardware store, and gas station. Because Friday Harbor has a large marina, it is a popular place for boaters. You can also arrive in Friday Harbor via ferry (either with or without your vehicle). We had drinks at the Cask & Schooner Public House, and we sampled ice cream at Friday Harbor Ice Cream Company (which accepts cash only).
Back on land in Fairhaven, we ate dinner at Big Pie. (See my separate review on Tripadvisor.)
August 1 (Friday): Bellingham (Fairhaven) to Lummi Island
To pick up our car, we took a taxi from the Fairhaven Village Inn to the Bellingham International Airport (BLI). The taxi from the hotel to the airport cost about $40 and took about 20 minutes. The Bellingham Airport is small, but nicely appointed. Besides Alaska Air, many small airlines operate from the airport (such as Allegiant Air, Island Air, Northwest Sky Ferry, San Juan Airlines, and Sun Country Airlines). Halibut Henry’s, a combination cafe / newsstand, is located outside of security. (The secure area offers a full-service restaurant called Scotty Brown’s.) Taxis are available at the airport (be sure to stand in the correct queue). All of the major car rental counters are present (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise / Alamo, Hertz). Rental cars are present on-site at the airport, so you walk to the rental car parking lot, which is adjacent to passenger / public parking. We rented a car from Avis. Although Avis operates a counter at the Bellingham Ferry Terminal, it is staffed only on Friday afternoons when the Alaska ferry runs, but even then, customers are shuttled to the airport to pick up their cars.
Before we began the driving portion of our trip, we drove (less than a 5-minute drive from the airport) to Fred Meyer grocery / super store to buy supplies. Our next destination – Lummi Island - was not far from Bellingham, but it required a car to get there. Initially, we inquired about the Leap Frog Water Taxi, but the cost was nearly $200 each way because it was a private charter. Instead, we rented a car, and drove the 12-mile, 20-minute trip from the airport to the Gooseberry Point ferry dock. No passenger services exist right at the dock, although a trailer across the parking lot may contain some amenities. The cost for the ferry is $13 USD for a car and its driver, plus $7 for each additional passenger. Passengers pay the fee in cash while they ride the ferry. (The return trip from Lummi Island to Gooseberry Point is free.) The ferry to Lummi Island runs every 20 minutes on weekdays, and every hour on weekends. (Check the schedule on-line for the exact times.) The ferry holds about 20 cars (less if larger vehicles like trucks are aboard). The ferry also transports foot passengers, bicyclists, and motorcyclists. The ferry staff are adept at loading and unloading cars, and at maximizing the number of vehicles aboard. The “ride” takes about 10 minutes, and you must remain seated in your vehicle because the cars are parked closely together.
When we arrived on Lummi Island, it was still too early to check into our hotel, so we drove around the island. It was interesting to see quiet island life with its two churches, library, fire station, general store (The Islander), restaurants (Beach Store Cafe, Willows Inn, and TapRoot Cafe), school, and post office. We ate lunch at the Beach Store Cafe, followed by an incredible dinner at the Willows Inn. (See my separate reviews on Tripadvisor.) We stayed at the Willows Inn in the Haven Suite for one night.
August 2 (Saturday): Lummi Island to Mount Rainier to Ashford
We rose early to begin our drive from Lummi Island to Mount Rainier. First, we boarded the car ferry back to Gooseberry Point. Services at the ferry dock on the Lummi Island side, while not luxurious, are more extensive than those services available at Gooseberry Point, including bathrooms, a vending machine, and a covered bench on which to wait. On our way to I-5 South, we stopped at a mini-market near the Silver Reef Casino.
After we drove for approximately three hours, we stopped for lunch at Kelly’s Mercantile in Enumclaw (see my separate review on Tripadvisor). Enumclaw is a good-sized town that contains services such as restaurants, shops, hardware store, grocery store, and gas stations.
We entered Mount Rainier National Park at the northeast corner (Sunrise entrance) and drove through much of the park on a three-hour route. The park entrance fee costs $15 USD per car. We tried to visit the Sunrise Visitors Center / Day Lodge, but an electronic message board at the road turn-off stated that the parking lots were full and to expect more than an hour wait time. Because it was approximately 2:00 pm and we had no time to spare, we headed for our second choice, Paradise. We parked our car and walked around at two different locations near Paradise, including the Henry M. Jackson Visitors Center. The wildflowers at Paradise were in their blooming season, so we saw some colorful alpine fields. The Paradise area contains lodging, restaurants (both full-service and casual), a visitor center, and picnic areas. We finished our drive through the park and exited at the Nisqually entrance (near Longmire).
The drive was truly spectacular; however, only the passenger was able to enjoy it, because the driver had to keep his eyes on the road, which was windy and treacherous at times! Next time, we will hire someone to drive us around, or perhaps take an organized tour, because the park views are gorgeous, including the glaciers, the old-growth forest, and the wildflower meadows.
After we checked into our hotel for one night, Alexander’s Inn (see my separate review), we drove to the “town” of Ashford, where we bought some supplies at the general store, and we investigated our options for dinner that night. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped for a drink at the Copper Creek Inn (see my separate review on Tripadvisor). We ate dinner at Alexander’s Inn because it was convenient.
August 3 (Sunday): Mount Rainier (Ashford) to Seattle
We enjoyed breakfast at Alexander’s Inn before we checked out and began our 2-hour, 90-mile drive from Ashford to downtown Seattle. En route, we stopped in Graham at a Safeway grocery store to buy supplies for the time that we would be in Seattle. Graham has several strip malls that contain restaurants, drug stores, grocery stores, and other shops.
We arrived at our hotel for the next three nights, the Homewood Suites Seattle Convention Center Pike Street (see my separate review on Tripadvisor), around noon. We returned our rental car to the Avis outlet next door to the hotel. Before we embarked on sightseeing at Pike Place Market, we ate lunch near our hotel at Sitka & Spruce (see my separate review). We had drinks at Place Pigalle in Pike Place Market, and we ate dinner near our hotel at Terra Plata (see my separate
August 4 (Monday): Seattle
We rose early so that we would arrive at the Space Needle before the crowds. After a quick breakfast at the Homewood Suites (included with our room rate), we took a 10-minute, one-way monorail trip from Westlake Center Station to Seattle Center Station for $2.25 USD per person (payable in cash to the cashier on-board the train). The monorail, built for the 1962 World’s Fair, deposited us on the grounds of Seattle Center, the park that the city built for that same World’s Fair. Seattle Center is home to the Space Needle, Chihuly Gardens and Glass, the (Frank Gehry-designed) Experience Music Project / Science Fiction Museum (EMP / SFM), Children’s Museum, International Fountain, and the Seattle opera and ballet venues.
We purchased a combination ticket for the Space Needle and Chihuly Gardens. First, we visited the Space Needle (see my separate review). Next, we visited nearby Chihuly Garden and Glass (see my separate review). Inside Chihuly Gardens (like inside the Space Needle), a staff member takes your photograph in several different locations. Afterwards, use the bar code that the staff member provides at a kiosk to view your photos and e-mail them to yourself (complimentary).
After we visited those two tourist attractions, we walked through the Seattle Art Museum’s (SAM) Olympic Sculpture Park to the waterfront area. We stopped for drinks at Paddy Coyne’s Irish Pub on the waterfront, and then we walked for two miles along the waterside. Eventually, our walk ended in Pioneer Square, where we ate lunch at FX McCrory’s (see my separate review).
We took the Central Link Light Rail home from Pioneer Square to Westlake Station, and then walked a few blocks (slightly uphill) back to our hotel. Light Rail trains run every 7 to 10 minutes (depending on the time of day and day of the week), and electronic status boards clearly indicate the arrival times of the next few incoming trains. We used a credit card to purchase our transportation tickets from a vending machine. (No live ticket agent is available.) You can purchase either per-ride tickets (for about $2 USD one-way), or you can purchase an unlimited day pass (for about $6 USD). On some station maps, it seems that a Light Rail stop is located at the Convention Center, but that same stop did not exist on the maps inside the trains (and the trains did not stop there).
That night, we ate dinner at Mamnoon (see our separate review on Tripadvisor).
August 5 (Tuesday): Seattle
After a quick breakfast at the Homewood Suites (included with our room rate), we explored Pike Place Market and Pioneer Square. The market opened in 1907, and it is one of the oldest continuously operated public farmers markets in the country. The market is built on the edge of a steep hill (the Pike Hill Climb), with several levels of merchants / stores / stalls below the street level. Over 500 merchants are spread throughout eight different buildings with names like the Main Market, Triangle Market, Sanitary Market (named because back in the day, no horses were permitted inside), North Arcade, Corner Market, and Economy Market.
We wanted to see “flying fish” at the market, but although we watched and waited at the Pike Place Fish stall, we never witnessed that spectacle. (Fishmongers throw large salmon and other fish to each other instead of passing them by hand. When a customer purchases a fish, an employee hurls it over the counter top, where another employee catches it and wraps it.) Instead, we enjoyed looking at the seafood, baked goods, produce, cut flowers, and specialty shops. Outdoor stalls on Pike Street also house local artists who sell their handicrafts and other souvenirs. Dining options (both casual and sit-down) abound in and around the market, such as Matt’s, Lowell’s, and Place Pigalle. The original Starbucks is located on Pike Street, which is the street adjacent to the actual market. Another top attraction in the market is Rachel (the bronze pig statue), as well as the market sign itself.
Our next stop was Pioneer Square, which is one of the few historic districts in the city of Seattle. Pioneer Square began in the 1850s, where merchants and residents established their businesses and homes. Unfortunately, many of the structures were located in the floodplain, and every day at high tide, they properties were under water. We took Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour (see my separate review), during which we were able to descend below the current city streets to view the historical origins of the city. The iron and glass pergola in Pioneer Square is a “must-see” (it reminded us of an old Parisienne subway stop), as well as Waterfall Park. In addition, Pioneer Square contains some interesting old signs / business marquees, such as the sign at the old State Hotel that offers rooms for 75 cents!
We tried to eat lunch at Salumi Cured Meats (owned by Mario Batali’s father), but the lines were long (approximately two hours wait time). Fortunately, we had an alternative plan to eat lunch at Bar Sajor (see my separate review on Tripadvisor).
After lunch, we visited the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park (in the site of the former Cadillac Hotel).
On our way back to the Homewood Suites, we stopped for drinks at Six Arms in Capitol Hill / First Hill near our hotel. In the late afternoon, we made a quick stop at the complimentary dinner and drinks buffet at our hotel.
In the evening, we boarded the Light Rail train at the Westlake Station and rode it to the Stadium Station stop (which is located between Century Link and Safeco Fields). We attended the Seattle Mariners versus Atlanta Braves baseball game at Safeco Field. Although we wanted to see the game, we also wanted to sample some of the stadium food that we had heard about. The food was excellent, with great variety and high quality. The park sells non-traditional items such as Thai food, Chinese food, sushi, vegan / vegetarian / gluten-free dishes, seafood and chowder, in addition to traditional ballpark food like hotdogs and popcorn. Local chef Ethan Stowell created food for Sound Seafood like crab roll, fish and chips, and po’ boys, items for Edgar’s Cantina like carne asada, pulled pork, and lengua (beef tongue) tacos, and options for Swingin’ Wings like “Dirty Tots” (potato nuggets topped with local cheddar, pork belly, and pickled peppers). Overall, the stadium prices food adequately, but not drinks. Beverages cost approximately $5 for a plastic 16.9-oz. bottle of Dasani water and about $9 for a domestic draft beer.
August 6 (Wednesday): Seattle to Vancouver to Whistler
We traveled from the Homewood Suites to the Amtrak Station on King Street via taxi, which the hotel summoned for us. The King Street Station is located only 1.5 miles from the hotel, so the drive took less than five minutes at that early hour of the day. Because most passengers held electronic tickets, we queued in an outdoor line to check our bags. (The actual check-in desk is located inside the station for passengers without tickets.) Amtrak staff weighed and marked each bag carefully. Amtrak permits each passenger to check two bags up to 50 pounds each, and to carry on two smaller bags. We booked our tickets on-line, and Amtrak sent us a confirmation e-mail, including instructions to print our tickets at a Quik-Trak kiosk. Amtrak recommends that guest with checked baggage arrive about 45 minutes prior to departure time.
The inside of King Street Station is a gleaming Art-Deco masterpiece from another era. However, the station does not any real amenities for travelers other than bathrooms and seating; it offers no newsstand, cafe, or restaurant (although it has a few vending machines). Independent shops and restaurants near the station offer food, drinks, and merchandise.
We boarded the 7:20 am Amtrak Cascades train 510 at Seattle’s King Street Station en route to Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station. The train departed Seattle about 30 minutes late on the day that we traveled. (Amtrak did little to keep passengers informed of the delay.) Seattle is not the train’s origin; the ride begins in Eugene Oregon, so it must have lost time along the way. Although passengers reserve a ticket and a class of service, they do not have a specific seat assignment until they speak to the agents in the waiting area of the station (not the agent at the check-in desk). In the waiting area, Amtrak sets up two counters: one window for business class passengers, and the other for economy class. Passengers wait in line to see an agent, who pastes a seat assignment sticker on their boarding passes. Boarding occurs by class, with business followed by economy.
We splurged on business-class train tickets because the price difference was only about $25 USD more per person, for a total one-way fare of approximately $100 per person. On the day that we traveled (north), Amtrak reserved the first two coaches for business-class passengers. In business class, the seating configuration was 1-2, with the 1s on the water side (the preferable view). We chose to sit in rows 1 and 2, so our seats faced each other (the passenger in row 1 rides backwards). Only rows 1 and 2 in Business class face each other; all other rows (perhaps rows 3 through 7 in Business) contain forward facing seats. The aisle space between the seats is wide, although the pitch between the rows is comparable to airline seats. Business seats had cup holders and tray tables (except for the first two rows), and Wi-Fi was available. (However, we have since read that Amtrak will discontinue Wi-Fi at the end of September 2014. We are not sure if no longer exists, or if Amtrak will charge passengers for access.) A rack at the end of each business class coach holds larger carry-on baggage. Passengers can carry on bags similar in size to what they carry onto an airplane; however, space is limited, and not enough exists for everyone to carry on their larger bags. (Limited overhead storage also exists for smaller items such as backpacks.)
Overhead TV monitors in each train coach did not broadcast anything! The intent is probably to have them show your trip progress, as airlines do with their real-time flight information, but they were blank during our trip. The engine coach in front of our coach contained a bathroom. The first and second coaches held business-class passengers. The third coach contained the Lounge Car, with seating at tables for two or four people. However, the train engineer and other staff members claimed at least three of the tables for the duration of the trip, which seemed unfair to the passengers when so few tables were present. The Bistro Car was located next in line, and it featured a counter to purchase food and beverages and some additional limited seating.
The train stopped about five times between Seattle and Vancouver on our 4.5-hour journey. The train stopped in Edmonds, Everett, Stanwood, Mount Vernon, and Bellingham to pick up and discharge passengers. Most “stations” are just outdoor waiting areas atop platforms. Staff on-board the train announce each stop, and they walk around to check on passengers. When you board the train, the attendants place a small card indicating your departure station above your seat, so they can monitor which passengers must exit at which location. We enjoyed the scenery on the train trip, even though we had already seen amazing views in the San Juan Islands and in Mount Rainier. We had heard that the train trip was a “must see”, and the visuals were appealing.
When we arrived at Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station, the disembarkation process was illogical. First, passengers with hand baggage only could disembark. Next, the remainder of passengers waited for staff to off-load all baggage. The business passengers disembarked first, and we walked from the front of the train (near the immigration building) to the very rear of the train to claim our bags. Luggage is stacked in two rows, with a narrow empty gauntlet between the rows where passengers walk down to look for their bags, and then walk back to the front of the train after they locate and claim their bags. This process repeats as new passengers join the procedure, with passengers and luggage bumping into each other as they search for similar looking bags. If the staff placed the off-loaded luggage near the front of the train (instead of at the rear), passengers would not double back and run into each other. We disembarked, claimed our bags, and passed through immigration and customs.
We waited at Vancouver Pacific Central Station for our Thruway Greyhound bus service to Whistler, which we could only book as part of the full train itinerary. When the bus arrived (presumably from a location to the south), it was nearly full to capacity, so we claimed the front row for ourselves. Posted placards indicate to reserve that row for handicapped / elderly patrons, but no other option for two seats existed. Even though we had business-class seats on the train portion of our itinerary, we did not have any priority boarding privileges on the bus portion of our trip. However, because of luck, we ended up seated in the front row, which offered preferable seats.
The scenery from the front seat of the bus as we traveled the two hours from Vancouver to Whistler was spectacular! We regret not taking the Rocky Mountaineer train on the Sea-to-Sky climb from Vancouver to Whistler to enjoy the view even more thoroughly, but the timing and availability made it difficult. Greyhound made several stops prior to our final destination in Whistler Village. The bus made two stops in Squamish (one at the Visitors Center and the other at a tiny but official Greyhound station), and another stop in Whistler Creekside. The bus dropped us at the central transportation area for Whistler Village, which was a short walk (even with luggage) from our hotel for the next two nights, the Hilton Whistler (see my separate review.)
We walked around Whistler Village and Upper Village on the pedestrian-only Village Stroll, where we window-shopped and made purchases at the grocery store and the liquor store. (You cannot purchase alcoholic beverages at a grocery store in Canada; you must purchase it at a special store.)
We ate lunch at Black’s Pub (at the Sundial Hotel), and dinner at La Bocca (see my separate reviews on both restaurants on Tripadvisor), followed by dessert at the Cinnamon Bear Bar at the Hilton.
August 7 (Thursday): Whistler
We spent the day on Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains. We purchased our gondola tickets from the concierge at the Hilton, and we charged their cost to our room. The Peak Adventure tickets cost about $50 per person, and they granted us use of all operating gondolas and lifts for the entire day. (Not all gondolas and chair lifts operate during the off-peak summer season.) Be aware of promotional discounts for Peak Adventure tickets. If you purchase your pass on-line at least five days prior to your arrival, you receive a bonus second day of gondola use free.
We traveled to the top of Whistler Mountain using the Whistler Village Gondola, which features fully enclosed cabins that hold eight passengers and take 30 minutes to reach the top. The Village Gondola first makes a stop halfway up the mountain, where many downhill mountain-bikers disembark. We rode to the top, where we explored on foot, including the Roundhouse Lodge and the Olympic medals platform. We took a short hike (downhill) to board the Peak Express chair lift (an open-air quad lift) to the top of Whistler Peak, where we hiked around and enjoyed the tremendous views, including the unique stone structure at the very top. We then took the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola across the traverse to Blackcomb Mountain (see my separate review of the gondola on Tripadvisor).
We ate lunch at Christine’s in the Rendezvous Lodge, where we enjoyed the view and the food (see my separate review on Christine’s). We hiked around the top of Blackcomb Mountain before we descended to the Upper Village. We rode the Solar / Sun Coaster Express chair lift to the Wizard Express chair lift. Both lifts are open-air quads, although some chairs on the Wizard have a clear plexiglass top cover that you can raise or lower.
We leisurely walked on the Village Stroll back to Whistler Village. We stopped for drinks at the Beacon Pub (at the Crystal Lodge). Later, we ate dinner at Araxi (at the Blackstone Lodge). (See my separate reviews on both restaurants.)
We wish that we had another day to spend in Whistler! We would have tried downhill mountain biking, scrambling, heli-hiking, or the bobsled that remains from the 2010 Winter Olympic Games. You can also kayak, rock climb, zip-line, or attend a dinner barbecue at a mountain-top day-lodge.
August 8 (Friday): Whistler to Vancouver
We ate an early breakfast at the Cinnamon Bear Bistro at the Hilton (included with our room rate). Before we departed the United States, we made an on-line reservation for a one-way bus transfer on Pacific Coach Lines (also called the Whistler Express) from Whistler to Vancouver. Our tickets price included a van transfer from the Hilton to the transportation center, which occurred about 20 minutes prior to our bus. (The van transfer was unnecessary for us. We could have walked more quickly and easily because our hotel was so close.) We joined a large group of travelers on the full-size coach, which departed Whistler at 9:00 am and arrived in Vancouver at about 11:00 am. The bus driver dropped us near Vancouver’s Burrard Skytrain Station, and we walked a few blocks to our hotel for one night, the Hampton Inn and Suites Vancouver (see my separate review on Tripadvisor).
Because we had only one day to see Vancouver, we chose our sights carefully. We visited Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, Chinatown, Gastown, the Steam Clock, and Canada Place. The Sun-Yat Sen Garden was attractive but compact, and the admission price was a bit expensive for the size of the property. Further, you could view much of the site from the adjacent (free) public park. Chinatown was disappointing as compared to neighborhoods we have visited in other cities. (We had hoped to see a bustling local Chinese market.) Gastown is the oldest part of Vancouver, and it features brick buildings built in the late 1800s as well as the famous clock that steams and chimes at regular intervals. Canada Place is a giant convention center / cruise ship terminal. We regret that we did not have time to visit Stanley Park (which we drove through en route to and from Whistler), Granville Island Public Market, Grouse Mountain, and the Capilano Suspension Bridge.
We ate lunch at Jimmy’s Tap House (at the Westin) and dinner at the Back Forty (see my separate review on the Back Forty on Tripadvisor).
August 9 (Saturday): Vancouver to Newark, New Jersey
We ate breakfast at the Hampton Inn Vancouver (included with our room rate) before we checked out. We planned to use the hotel’s complimentary shuttle service to travel between the hotel and Waterfront Station, but we did not wake early enough (at 7:00 am) to make our reservation. However, we were lucky enough to fit on someone else’s shuttle (cruise ship passengers en route to the port, in the same direction as us). When we arrived at Waterfront Station, we purchased tickets to the airport at a discounted weekend rate. When we first arrived in Vancouver ten days prior (during peak weekday hours), our train tickets from the airport to the city center cost approximately $8 USD per person. However, our return tickets to the airport cost only $2.50 USD per person because we traveled back during off-peak weekend hours. A helpful Vancouver city greeter positioned in the Waterfront Station helped us purchase our train tickets from the vending machine. (No human ticket seller is available.) In the early 1900s, the Canadian Pacific Railway built Waterfront Station, which features a colonnaded façade on the exterior, and murals and a coffered ceiling inside. The station offers casual counter-service dining options, souvenir shops, newsstand, and one full-service restaurant that offers both indoor and outdoor seating.
The ride on the Canada Line train to the Vancouver Airport YVR Station took about 25 minutes. We arrived about three hours prior to our flight, which was more than ample time. Departing American passengers clear United States customs and immigration at the Vancouver Airport, so they technically arrive home on domestic flights. First, we checked in with an airline agent at Air Canada for our boarding passes, and then we took our baggage through the customs screening, after which time some passengers checked their luggage (we carried on). The US departure terminal contains shops, restaurants, and seating areas, as well as art exhibits and a children’s playground. We spent our time waiting at Canuck’s Bar & Grill, where we ate some tasty airport food (really!).
We departed on Air Canada flight 548 at 4:15 pm. Although Air Canada is a Star Alliance partner, it does not afford United silver customers any reciprocal status benefits. We did not check our luggage, but cost $25 CAD per bag. The Air Canada aircraft on our return flight offered in-seat back entertainment, which was not available on the United flight on which we arrived. United flight. Two flights from EWR to Vancouver occur each day; one flight occurs on United equipment and the other flight occurs on Air Canada equipment. The Air Canada equipment does not offer seating with additional legroom like the
Air Canada treated us poorly between the time we made our reservation and several weeks prior to flying. When we booked (nine months ahead), we paid for exit row seats (row 17A / 17C) on the Air Canada Airbus 319. However, a few weeks before we departed, the airline reassigned our seats and refunded our money, without an e-mail or a telephone call to inform us. (We found out when we viewed our credit card statement and noticed some credits from Air Canada. However, it was difficult to discern what the credit was for because the amount did not equal the amount of the original debit; and the difference was more than the usual foreign exchange fluctuation.) The airline moved us one row back to row 18A / 18C, but because no one sat between us, the seating was preferable to the original, and it did not cost extra. We arrived at Newark’s Liberty International Airport just after midnight (a little over five hours of flight time).
Conclusion
We loved our trip to the Pacific Northwest! For the past several years, we have traveled farther afield to places like Southeast Asia, so we had a slight concern that this trip might not feel “exotic” enough for us. While it is true that everyone spoke English, and that we saw lots of chain hotels, restaurants, and stores, the beauty of the scenery (all those snow-capped mountains beneath brilliantly blue sunny skies) made up for it, along with the friendly people we met. We especially liked the more rustic and / or remote locales that we visited, like the San Juan Islands, Mount Rainier, and Whistler. We enjoyed our trip to the Pacific Northwest so much that we are investigating other locations in Washington, Oregon, and Western Canada that we can visit next summer!
Oct 22nd, 2014, 08:16 AM
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Glad you loved your USA trip. We too stayed in the U.S. this year. We usually go to Europe for our annual trip but decided instead to go to Moab, UT the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone this year. So glad we did as it was all fantastic.
Oct 30th, 2014, 03:47 PM
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Thanks for posting this excellent review. We just visited a few of the places you did and want to return. Your review will be of great help. We also usually travel Internationally for most trips, but enjoyed the Northwest U.S. very much.
Feb 18th, 2015, 03:24 AM
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thanks for a very thorough and informative trip report. we are thinking of going to the pacific NW in July or Aug '15 depending on frequent flyer flight availability and trying to decide the specifics.
Feb 26th, 2015, 11:45 AM
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Enjoyed reading your detailed post of your PNW trip. Sounds like you are well traveled. Curious if you considered a longer stay in the San Juan Islands? It looks like there are only 4 islands that the ferry stops at but hundreds of other islands to see. We are not interested in seeing towns but more nature and keeping away from the crowds.
Feb 27th, 2015, 07:56 AM
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Most of the many islands in the San Juan Island chain are only reachable by private boats. Some of them do have residences on them, but many are uninhabited and small. Nowhere in the San Juan Islands would I really consider there to be large crowds, even in the real towns, like Friday Harbor on San Juan Island and Eastsound on Orcas. The most people you see is on summer weekends during some kind of festival, but it's nothing like you would find in an urban or even suburban setting. You will probably see more people on the ferry getting there than at any one place on the islands. And yes, you can spend a week on one of the larger islands if you are mostly interested in peace and quiet and nature. I would say for individuals who like to be on the go, 3 nights is probably sufficient for San Juan Island or Orcas.
Feb 28th, 2015, 08:36 AM
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Thanks for the added insight into the San Juans, after more research I am now thinking that a cruise in the San Juan islands, possibly on a sailboat is the way to go for us. There are several small ships that offer interesting four to seven day cruises that will incorporate the more remote islands and appear to offer an interesting menu as well. Since we're foodies that is very appealing. Hopefully that would include some wildlife and hiking. We like to see different things too, so the boat moving from island to island should make it fresh. We still may do the ferry, but this sounds a little more adventurous and different than the ferry.
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