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Springfield, Massachusetts and I-91 : Surprisingly Awesome

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Springfield, Massachusetts and I-91 : Surprisingly Awesome

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Old May 24th, 2011, 10:15 PM
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Springfield, Massachusetts and I-91 : Surprisingly Awesome

I have always been looking for 'that one special place,' whether a big city, on a different continent, or off-the-beaten track. Not to sound corny or anything, but I love places that feel 'genuine,' that aren't trying to be anything but themselves, or keep up with the Joneses (for example, the Bostons and the NYCs and the LAs and the DCs.)

My friend told me that I might like Springfield, Massachusetts. She said, "Springfield had nearly given itself up for dead ten years ago, but now it's back and it's AWESOME!"

Now I trust this lady's opinion, and not knowing exactly what "awesome" entailed, I was intrigued. All that I knew about Springfield Mass before that was that basketball was invented there -- pretty cool. I didn't know what else to expect.

I flew in from California, drove up 95 to New Haven and stopped to use the little boy's room. Afterward, I drove through the town, walked a little, saw the sites (Yale, Amistad, East Rock.) I'll admit I was slightly let down by New Haven -- because a few years ago someone told me it was really cool. No doubt, there was some cool stuff there, but why does "revitalization" always have to look the exact same everywhere, (buildings in the same grey-blue) and have the exact same stores? (Au Bon Pain, Urban Outfitters, IKEA, etc.) By Yale there were a bunch of hipsters all dressed up to look "different," but they all looked the exact same. Maybe I wouldn't have been as critical if I didn't see a cop EVERYWHERE I looked in NH--not the jolly kind.

Undaunted, I continued up 91, looking for something (not sure what,) and ended up in Hartford. Hartford was different than New Haven -- it didn't put on any airs. Downtown was skyscrapered like Boston, but unlike Boston; like in San Jose, downtown Hartford was all business. I don't think I saw 5 people in downtown Hartford there past 7pm. The roads through the center of town reminded me a lot of Minneapolis -- too wide to cross on foot, and why cross anyway?

Downtown Hartford was attractive, even enhanced by the ghost-town vibe, but the real action was just outside of downtown. Hartford has some attractive old architecture and some very colorful residents. Every road seemed to turn into a block party eventually -- kind of like in Oakland. That said, Hartford felt relatively safe. (How can a place with a world famous Athenaeum have crime..? I know, it's the #19 most dangerous US city or whatever, but it didn't feel like it.)

I would've stayed in "The Heartbeat" if Susie hadn't have told me about Springfield... Did you know it's only 23.9 miles from Hartford to Springfield? I didn't. I think that those two should be "twin cities." Marry despite their parents' disapprovals..? (What would Massachusetts say?!) So ok, that's it: twin cities!! It's official, brilliant idea. Unfortunately, this is New England, where 23 miles isn't an "average commute," (like in Cali,) it's a vacation. Plus, "remember that time in 1638...?" New Englanders are so quirky. With its brain power, they could prob run our country if they weren't too busy talking trash about each other "Wusstuh? You dun' wannuh go they-uh." That's what someone told me on the airplane.

Anyway I hope it happens, the twin city thing -- Hartford has a Minneapolis vibe, and Springfield has a St. Paul vibe. They're good compliments and don't really overlap: Hartford's the business leader; Springfield's the artsy cousin. They both have college vibes but Springfield's got that great architecture, which makes this San Franciscan feel at home.

As I was driving north on I-91 to Springfield, I noticed that the trees and greenery were becoming more intense, dense, and green. By the time I could see Springfield in the distance, the roads seemed like they were cut out of the jungle.

Springfield has only a few skyscrapers--I hope it stays that way because it makes the city look unique. Church steeples still dot the skyline like in Germany... The new architecture is whimsical. The Basketball Hall of Fame is shaped like a basketball!!

Immediately, I got off the exit in Forest Park--and jackpot!! AMAZING Victorian Painted Ladies and mansions on bluffs overlooking the Connecticut River. Next to them was a city park, almost as big as Central Park, designed by the same person who designed Central Park (Frederick Law Olmsted.) I drove into it and saw a bunch of sculptures, tree groves, gardens, and even a zoo!! Someone there told me that they had 38 tennis courts, a hockey arena, and a lake with paddleboats. There are jungle gyms, an aquatic park, romantic promenades. You could spend a day in this place, Forest Park, easily.

My first night there, I had no idea where to stay in Springfield -- the hotel prices seemed too high, (Springfield, in my opinion, needs an express hotel for people who don't want a "4 star experience" lol, but I got the feeling that its tourist infrastructure is under-built. Maybe it gets mostly business travel.)

Generally, I don't like bars and clubs, but that first night I went into Springfield's Club Quarter--and it turned out to be one of the highlights of my trip. In my opinion, Springfield has one of the most inclusive, unpretentious, non-judgmental club quarters in America -- hip-hop club sandwiched between two LGBT clubs, next to a sports bar, next to a blues bar, across from a piano bar. I remember looking at it and thinking, "I love America." Awesome. You really can be anything here.

Springfield has a lot of sites, but like San Francisco, architecture is part of the attraction. The city is, in my opinion, probably the most walkable in New England except for Boston -- barring the awful highway, I-91, that cuts off Springfield from the gorgeous Connecticut River. Hartford has that same problem with I-91, and New Haven actually has two highways that cut it off from the LI Sound. These cities look great on foot but terrible from the highways, in my opinion.

Back to Springfield: even Springfield's crosswalks are sculptural. The street lights look like Dr. Seuss designs. They lead you around Metro Center to the Springfield Armory National Park (the largest historic fire arm collection in the world, I learned,) and to the South End, Springfield's little Italy, where I had an excellent meal at Red Rose and Italian dessert at La Fiorentina... The best cannoli I've ever had, honestly -- although I can't agree with Secretary of State Madeline Albright about Red Rose having the best meatballs. My Mom's are still tops!!

The next day I checked into the Marriott (AMAZING hotel but way pricey for me, so I knew I would have to hurry through Springfield.) I knew I needed at least two more days to explore the Quadrangle, the Basketball Hall of Fame, Six Flags New England, The Big E, The Springfield Symphony Orchestra (supposedly one of the country's most innovative,) and a few great venues to see live theater (e.g. CityStage.)

Ultimately, I didn't even get a chance to visit the Basketball Hall of Fame!!! Three days in Springfield and I couldn't even get to it.

Overall, I was very impressed by Springfield. To me, it's as close as I've come to that 'one special place' that remains genuine during an age when everything tries to look like everything else. I found it to be safe, attractive -- and have something for everyone: high culture (5 quadrangle museums; innovative symphony; great theater,) and more low-brow (six flags new england; the club quarter; the big e and the exceptionally beautiful Forest Park... Did I mention the architecture..?

I never even got to Amherst and Northampton, like I was hoping. There was too much to do in Springfield--I couldn't fit it all in. (NoHo and Amherst will be my next trip.)

My only complaint about Springfield goes for New Haven and Hartford too... Why on earth did these cities cut off their downtowns from their major bodies of water with huge, uncrossable highways?

When these cities figure our ways to reconnect with their rivers, they'll be "back" 100% in my opinion -- although they're all looking pretty good these days.

-MM, San Francisco, CA
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Old May 25th, 2011, 02:17 AM
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I am glad you enjoyed your trip and read this twice looking for an ad. So unless you are the president of Springfield Chamber of Commerce this is probably the strangest post about Massachusetts I have ever read here.

As someone who has lived in Massachusetts for 35 years, and who has been to Springfield and surrounding areas many times, I fail to see the positives and charms of this city. To me Springfield is a gritty old mill town, with poor schools and several significantly dangerous areas. I would never think of Springfield as a destination, and in conversation it is used as a geograpical reference point - as in "just north of Springfield" when going someplace else.

Your trip report reads like an ad in a brochure for Springfield. Odd that you mention Six Flags, since as of date of your post it is not open for the season and is not actually in Springfield it's in Agawam.

And the Big E - it is the site of an annual FALL fair and is mostly vacant lots and buildings, with an occasional small event, the rest of the year. Unless you were there for those 3 weeks, not sure to what you are referring.

"There was so much to do in Springfield" - you cleverly did not mention much YOU did other than drive thru Forest Park, eat a cannolli and go to a bar.

City of Springfield will be happy with this post since they have interestingly just started a big advertising campaign to publicize the City in honor of its 375th anniversary.

Again, glad you enjoyed your time - just don't share your opinion.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 02:48 AM
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You have it right, gail, the OP is from the Springfield tourist bureau or something similar, maybe a troll messing with us. Has been on board since May 2011 !!

I do like to visit the Quadrangle, but noticed there was no information on what was there or which of the museums were visited and enjoyed there.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 02:54 AM
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Wow. Not even one mention of the murders that have happened in some of those areas in the past few weeks. Definitely written by someone in the Chamber of Commerce.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 03:56 AM
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The OP flew in from San Francisco to visit New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield!

I wonder if this was a college tour?
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Old May 25th, 2011, 04:50 AM
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Not even close to a college visit, you could fly to Hartford/Springfield and rent a car cheaper than NY and not have the hassle of the drive to/from NY.

troll
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Old May 25th, 2011, 07:52 AM
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I thought this is quite an interesting trip report, troll or not.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 09:47 AM
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I grew up in a CT town that's about equidistant from Hartford and Springfield. My family still lives there, and I can't say I agree with your report. It was interesting though.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 10:11 AM
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gail's entirely right about the odd inconsistencies, such as those involving the Big-E (Eastern States Exposition) and Six Flags. That already makes this post highly suspect.

I've been to this city, and find the idea ludicrous that one could busy oneself for a whole day in Forest Park. It's an okay enough mid-sized green space, and the little zoo there supposedly provided inspiration for Dr. Seuss. But a whole day? No way. And unless you have a car, it's a good bit out of the way to reach from the city's other attractions.

In fact, one could easily enough see the Armory, Quadrangle Museums (they're all quite small and of minimal interest), and Basketball Hall of Fame in one day, even on foot if you don't mind the hills surrounding the first two attractions. And yes, there are a couple good eateries downtown: Chef Wayne's Big Mamou (Cajun) and The Student Prince (German, and good German cuisine is hard to come by in Massachusetts). But I'd still put Springfield far down on the pecking order of area "musts," certainly below nearby Northampton/Amherst or even New Haven. New Haven has far better museum and food options than Springfield.

Agreed, PomonaSage is either a troll or works for the local CofC.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 01:13 PM
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Oh, definitely a troll! No doubt. It's quite hilarious, really.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 01:44 PM
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Other than the Basket Hall of Fame, can't really figure out why you'd stop other than to get gas at cheaper prices than in CT..
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Old May 26th, 2011, 09:00 PM
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Well I have to add my two cents because I moved to this area by choice over 25 years ago from a big city. It's beautiful, convenient, has a lot to offer and it has an amazing history. I've been to all the places noted above, it didn't focus on everything, but to me it is all of Western Mass that makes the area unique.

Next time you're here for a visit come on the day of the Pancake Breakfast where tables line Main Street and you'll find community and a great time. Look for Theodor Geisel's house on Mulberry Street. See the Dr. Seuss sculptures at the quadrangle. Visit the Indian Motorcycle exhibit at the Springfield Museum, or the Springfield Armory (established in 1777), it has quite a history.

Go across the river (WSpfld) to Storrowton Village, an 18th/19th century museum on the Big E grounds, the tavern has good food. Visit Skinner Mountain (Hadley) for a breathtaking view of the valley and look for the spot where the airplane crashed into the mountain. Or visit the merry-go-round, children's museum or Volleyball Hall of Fame in Holyoke and go into Norhampton to Herrell's for ice cream.

I could go on, there is a lot to do here if you look for it, and I am not a troll, but someone who appreciates living here.
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Old May 27th, 2011, 02:06 AM
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Western Massachusetts is beautiful and worth visiting and from reports of friends living there a fantastic place to live. In my opinion, Springfield itself is not.
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Old May 27th, 2011, 02:12 AM
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Springfield may indeed be a very pleasant place to live and I appreciate your appreciation of your hometown, litefoot, but Springfield is simply not a place I would consider a vacation destination. Would you?
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Old May 27th, 2011, 04:21 AM
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I found this an interesting account of an oddball trip, it doesn't read like an ad to me. And the poster doesn't say he saw the Big E or Six Flags but that it would have required more time to do so. I do get that the timing is off. Quirky observations about New Haven and Hartford and criticizing the hotel availability in Springfield.

I'll be curious to read his impressions of Northampton and Amherst if he manages to fly out from California for his next trip, as he suggests.
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Old May 27th, 2011, 04:54 AM
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I have lived and worked in the Pioneer Valley for over 35 years and it has much to offer, almost none of it in Springfield, IMO. On another site there is a serious thread about a destination wedding in Springfield; the OP is a basketball fan and they want to get married in a state with marriage equality. It takes all kinds!
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Old May 27th, 2011, 06:12 AM
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This really is a question of travel priorities. Any city the population size of Springfield will have some things one can consider tourist attractions, and will likely have some kind of community and/or religious festive occasions one can experience.

But given how many US cites I'd like to visit and the finite quantity of dollars I have to spend on travel, would I consider Springfield MA a higher priority than other places I've visited such as (deep breath) Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Portland ME, Newport RI, Providence, Annapolis, Washington DC, Charleston SC, Savannah, Atlanta, St. Augustine, Miami, Key West, the Tampa Bay area, New Orleans, Nashville, Memphis, Cincinnati, Chicago, Indianapolis, St. Louis, San Francisco, Las Vegas, Salt Lake City -- or even Springfield IL? Or Zion, Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon, Arches, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, or Acadia National Parks? Not me.
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Old May 27th, 2011, 07:41 AM
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PomonaSage,

If you are not a Chamber of Commerce , I think you would like Baltimore MD. There is a rough side to the city, for sure, but some terrific charming neighborhoods, restaurants, architecture, markets (love the Lexington Market!)... but very genuine. I hated the city at first, but after living there 2 years (I'm now living in Canada), the charm grew on me. Now, almost 9 years after having lived there, "Balmer" as they call it, remains one of my favourite spots in the USA.

Best wishes, Daniel Williams
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Old May 27th, 2011, 02:57 PM
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What do you mean bachslunch saying "or even Springfield IL? You have rattled off many cities most familiar to me and i don't think any surpass the charm of Ill. state capitol with the Lincoln attractions and more. Others mentioned do have charm no doubt. Chicago or Boston or Washington is an entirely different kind of large metroplis. I would say there are many smaller cities one could add (expecting some of you to call them out).

Bill in Boston
(grad of Springfield High)
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Old May 27th, 2011, 06:17 PM
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I don't know if this is a troll, but it does sound like someone who has never visited. There is a curious lack of any specifics beyond what you can garner from wikipedia and other on-line sites--including the Madeleine Albright quote.

What strikes me as odd as well is the passage: "Plus, "remember that time in 1638...?" New Englanders are so quirky. With its brain power, they could prob run our country if they weren't too busy talking trash about each other "Wusstuh? You dun' wannuh go they-uh." That's what someone told me on the airplane."

I grew up in Massachusetts and no one ever said "remember that time in 1738" unless they worked at Plimouth Plantation, never mind the accent which could be a audio/transcription variance.

It was an entertaining post, however.
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