Sonoma Barrel Tasting Trip Report
Mar 8th, 2004, 07:22 AM
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Sonoma Barrel Tasting Trip Report
WWWOWWWW! WHEEEE! We had such a GREEEEATTT time!
First off: Thanks a mil, razzledazzle!
Second: Thanks a mil, razzledazzle!
Lastly: Thank you, thank you, thank you, RD, for a terrific suggestion!
We had such a marvellous and wonderful trip!
Saturday:
We started out "early" from Silicon Valley: 9am and, by bypassing San Francisco and going across the San Rafael Bridge, we had arrived at Viansa Vineyards in Sonoma by 10:30am. (After the Bridge, took Highway 101 to Highway 37 to Highway 121 for Viansa)
At Viansa, we did the obligatory tasting of ALL the little dishes set out with their various products: dips, sauces, oils, vinegars, and sweet "thangs". At about $10 a pop, we decided on getting only those that we couldn't make ourselves: like wild mushroom sauce. We also skipped the winetasting, as it was a bit early. Walked out with seven little jars of goodies. Happy! Happy! Good start!
Next stop: BR Cohn for their superb olive oil from trees over 100 years old. As the adults tasted, a two year old was testing their floor, while someone else's dog sat in the sunlight, enjoying the early morning warmth.
Next stop: Ledson - just to look, folks, just to look. The place is one showcase - "Ohmigod! Look at that house!, but we've never tasted the wine. ("Are we tasting the brickwork or are we tasting wine?")
Next stop: The town of Sonoma with its charming square Square. We end up at the Sonoma Market for some upscale lunch items: salads, cheeses, and freshly baked bread. Wonderful place!
OK, now here's the mystery: this is supposedly the "Sonoma Barrel Tasting" weekend, but none of the wineries in the Sonoma Valley are taking part! So we speed out of Sonoma Valley and head north to Alexander Valley.
There are at least four valleys in the "Sonoma Wine Region". Sonoma Valley to the south, Alexander Valley to the north, Dry Creek Valley to the NW, and Russian River Valley to the SW. Tucked away among these big valleys are little valleys like Valley of the Moon and Green Valley, but generally one can identify wines by each of the four big valleys.
The best map is the Russian River Wine Road which covers all four regions, not just the Russian River. You can write for a copy at P O Box 46, Healdsburg, CA, 95448. Their downloadable map at www.wineroad.com is OK but split up, whereas the big foldout map is a composite map. Even so, neither map is adequate for driving directions. The AAA maps are divided in the oddest way or is missing some key wineries, so there's still not a truly great map that I've found yet for the region. Maybe one day, meanwhile, I'll try to indicate which are the exits to take for which wineries.
After Viansa, which is the first big winery on Highway 121 (which parallels Highway 101), BR Cohn, and Ledson (both on Highway 12), we took Highway 12 all the way up to where it joins with Highway 101 at Santa Rosa. We sped up 101 until the Independence Lane exit (about 1/2 hour freeway drive), got off, went under the freeway westward and immediately ahead is Chateau Souverain.
We started our winetasting at Souverain, purchasing the barrel tasting glass at $5/each. I suggest getting the souvenir glass as it is big and round and good for the red wines. Even tho you can bring your own glass, we saw some people with small liquor glasses which really don't allow the wine to "breathe". You need to swirl the red wine in the glass before you drink it - that's minimal breathing for the wine. Guess you knew that already!
One of the more wonderful things we found on this tasting trip was that some of the wineries were pairing food with some of their wines. Others offered at the least some bread, cheese, and crackers to help "cleanse the palate" before sampling another wine. The cheeses were SUPERB. We didn't sample a cheese we didn't like. One place offered a "Dubliner something-or-the-other" - with a slight streak of blue in it - utterly heavenly!
Chateau Souverain is built in the French style and, besides, is very stylish. The sampling was out on one terrace and they have a wine that scored 99 with Robert Parker. We were offered the 2003 version which had not been bottled yet and therefore still in the barrel. Well, this is barrel tasting time and the wines have not quite matured enough to be bottled. Forgot what it was, probably a cab. As the DD, Designated Driver, I was passing up on the initial wines. Did try their Sauvignon Blanc and liked it.
On exiting Chateau Souverain, we took a right turn onto Fredson Rd, the took another right turn onto Lytton Springs Road. Next stop, Peterson Winery, a very small winery but very welcoming. A bit more sampling with our proud new glasses. The DD stood outside and admired the vineyard. It's a glorious day, beautiful and warm. Last weekend, it poured buckets, so there is a fresh scrubbed look to the green hillsides. All the cherry blossoms and other spring blossom trees are in full bloom. It's so lovely out here. Green and pink everywhere.
We continue on Lytton Springs Road and pass up Mazzocco Winery. We want to stop - such a cute name! - but there are so many wineries and so little time!
At the junction, we make a right turn onto Dry Creek Road. Well, I guess you should know that Dry Creek Road runs along Dry Creek Valley and it as well as West Dry Creek Road have numerous wineries dotted all along these two roads.
A short drive on Dry Creek Road and we make a left turn onto Lambert Bridge Road and there are HORDES of people and cars on this narrow road. We turn left into (What else?) Dry Creek Vineyard. More sampling. DD is sampling the cheeses, very nice cheeses! A few sips here and there too! We purchase some Sauvignon Blanc, which is very sweet, almost like a dessert wine. A bit unusual for a Sauvignon Blanc, which is why we purchased it.
In the crowds on Lambert Road we can't find the entrance to Pezzi King and, since we can't stop in the crush of people and cars, we drive further.
At the end of short Lambert Road, we make a right turn onto West Dry Creek Road and right there is A. Rafanelli's. Usually, this place is open by appointment only and rumor has it that it will probably not participate in any more winetasting events, as this winery can sell everything it produces and more without any promotions. Needless to say, their wines are superb. Much tasting. Hic!
Just past Rafanelli's is a tiny road to the left, Wine Creek Road. It's a deadend road but it leads to Michel Schlumberger. "Is this a German vineyard?" "No, it sounds like Alsace Lorraine. Michel is French and Schlumberger is German. This is typical of that area." I later find out they are from Alsace.
Another fun part of this barrel tasting event is that some wineries put on themes. At Michel Schlumberger, we run into an elaborate Alice in Wonderland theme. A young boy, dressed as a Queen of Hearts page, directs us to the correct parking. There's Alice, and the Rabbit, and the Queen of Hearts, and.... It's a lovely house with many rooms and pouring is, as has been throughout this day, from both bottles and barrels (yet to be bottled). Each room has an Alice in Wonderland theme and each room features a different type of pairing of cheese and wine. We're ever so glad we ventured onto this deadend street. Many others seemed to had the same idea. Each room is packed. More purchases.
We drive back down to West Dry Creek road, turn left, heading north towards Raymond Burr Vineyard. It's closed! A man is standing there waving people off. Oh nuts!
It is getting late, close to 4 pm, the time when winetasting stops, and we have been so enjoying each winery. Our cheeks are red and it hasn't been because of the warm day! Crowds are out today and there have been traffic jams which made for a slow go in places. But there has been a great festive mood. One of us remarks that "even the men are smiling". Of course, everyone is smiling, men, women, babies, children - oh yes, by all means, bring the children along, lots of great picnic areas in many of the wineries - even the dogs are smiling.
We decide to end the day at Ferrari-Carano, that gorgeous Italian villa at the top of Dry Creek Road. We spend an hour there, buying more things, but not tasting any more wine. Our palates are jaded. The last minutes wre spent in their lovely garden. Ferrari Carano made for the perfect end to a perfect day.
We head back to Highway 101 on Canyon Road, passing J Pedroncelli and Canyon Wineries. Then we speed down Highway 101 towards Rohnert Park, which is between Santa Rosa and Petaluma.
To be continued
First off: Thanks a mil, razzledazzle!
Second: Thanks a mil, razzledazzle!
Lastly: Thank you, thank you, thank you, RD, for a terrific suggestion!
We had such a marvellous and wonderful trip!
Saturday:
We started out "early" from Silicon Valley: 9am and, by bypassing San Francisco and going across the San Rafael Bridge, we had arrived at Viansa Vineyards in Sonoma by 10:30am. (After the Bridge, took Highway 101 to Highway 37 to Highway 121 for Viansa)
At Viansa, we did the obligatory tasting of ALL the little dishes set out with their various products: dips, sauces, oils, vinegars, and sweet "thangs". At about $10 a pop, we decided on getting only those that we couldn't make ourselves: like wild mushroom sauce. We also skipped the winetasting, as it was a bit early. Walked out with seven little jars of goodies. Happy! Happy! Good start!
Next stop: BR Cohn for their superb olive oil from trees over 100 years old. As the adults tasted, a two year old was testing their floor, while someone else's dog sat in the sunlight, enjoying the early morning warmth.
Next stop: Ledson - just to look, folks, just to look. The place is one showcase - "Ohmigod! Look at that house!, but we've never tasted the wine. ("Are we tasting the brickwork or are we tasting wine?")
Next stop: The town of Sonoma with its charming square Square. We end up at the Sonoma Market for some upscale lunch items: salads, cheeses, and freshly baked bread. Wonderful place!
OK, now here's the mystery: this is supposedly the "Sonoma Barrel Tasting" weekend, but none of the wineries in the Sonoma Valley are taking part! So we speed out of Sonoma Valley and head north to Alexander Valley.
There are at least four valleys in the "Sonoma Wine Region". Sonoma Valley to the south, Alexander Valley to the north, Dry Creek Valley to the NW, and Russian River Valley to the SW. Tucked away among these big valleys are little valleys like Valley of the Moon and Green Valley, but generally one can identify wines by each of the four big valleys.
The best map is the Russian River Wine Road which covers all four regions, not just the Russian River. You can write for a copy at P O Box 46, Healdsburg, CA, 95448. Their downloadable map at www.wineroad.com is OK but split up, whereas the big foldout map is a composite map. Even so, neither map is adequate for driving directions. The AAA maps are divided in the oddest way or is missing some key wineries, so there's still not a truly great map that I've found yet for the region. Maybe one day, meanwhile, I'll try to indicate which are the exits to take for which wineries.
After Viansa, which is the first big winery on Highway 121 (which parallels Highway 101), BR Cohn, and Ledson (both on Highway 12), we took Highway 12 all the way up to where it joins with Highway 101 at Santa Rosa. We sped up 101 until the Independence Lane exit (about 1/2 hour freeway drive), got off, went under the freeway westward and immediately ahead is Chateau Souverain.
We started our winetasting at Souverain, purchasing the barrel tasting glass at $5/each. I suggest getting the souvenir glass as it is big and round and good for the red wines. Even tho you can bring your own glass, we saw some people with small liquor glasses which really don't allow the wine to "breathe". You need to swirl the red wine in the glass before you drink it - that's minimal breathing for the wine. Guess you knew that already!
One of the more wonderful things we found on this tasting trip was that some of the wineries were pairing food with some of their wines. Others offered at the least some bread, cheese, and crackers to help "cleanse the palate" before sampling another wine. The cheeses were SUPERB. We didn't sample a cheese we didn't like. One place offered a "Dubliner something-or-the-other" - with a slight streak of blue in it - utterly heavenly!
Chateau Souverain is built in the French style and, besides, is very stylish. The sampling was out on one terrace and they have a wine that scored 99 with Robert Parker. We were offered the 2003 version which had not been bottled yet and therefore still in the barrel. Well, this is barrel tasting time and the wines have not quite matured enough to be bottled. Forgot what it was, probably a cab. As the DD, Designated Driver, I was passing up on the initial wines. Did try their Sauvignon Blanc and liked it.
On exiting Chateau Souverain, we took a right turn onto Fredson Rd, the took another right turn onto Lytton Springs Road. Next stop, Peterson Winery, a very small winery but very welcoming. A bit more sampling with our proud new glasses. The DD stood outside and admired the vineyard. It's a glorious day, beautiful and warm. Last weekend, it poured buckets, so there is a fresh scrubbed look to the green hillsides. All the cherry blossoms and other spring blossom trees are in full bloom. It's so lovely out here. Green and pink everywhere.
We continue on Lytton Springs Road and pass up Mazzocco Winery. We want to stop - such a cute name! - but there are so many wineries and so little time!
At the junction, we make a right turn onto Dry Creek Road. Well, I guess you should know that Dry Creek Road runs along Dry Creek Valley and it as well as West Dry Creek Road have numerous wineries dotted all along these two roads.
A short drive on Dry Creek Road and we make a left turn onto Lambert Bridge Road and there are HORDES of people and cars on this narrow road. We turn left into (What else?) Dry Creek Vineyard. More sampling. DD is sampling the cheeses, very nice cheeses! A few sips here and there too!
We purchase some Sauvignon Blanc, which is very sweet, almost like a dessert wine. A bit unusual for a Sauvignon Blanc, which is why we purchased it. In the crowds on Lambert Road we can't find the entrance to Pezzi King and, since we can't stop in the crush of people and cars, we drive further.
At the end of short Lambert Road, we make a right turn onto West Dry Creek Road and right there is A. Rafanelli's. Usually, this place is open by appointment only and rumor has it that it will probably not participate in any more winetasting events, as this winery can sell everything it produces and more without any promotions. Needless to say, their wines are superb. Much tasting. Hic!
Just past Rafanelli's is a tiny road to the left, Wine Creek Road. It's a deadend road but it leads to Michel Schlumberger. "Is this a German vineyard?" "No, it sounds like Alsace Lorraine. Michel is French and Schlumberger is German. This is typical of that area." I later find out they are from Alsace.
Another fun part of this barrel tasting event is that some wineries put on themes. At Michel Schlumberger, we run into an elaborate Alice in Wonderland theme. A young boy, dressed as a Queen of Hearts page, directs us to the correct parking. There's Alice, and the Rabbit, and the Queen of Hearts, and.... It's a lovely house with many rooms and pouring is, as has been throughout this day, from both bottles and barrels (yet to be bottled). Each room has an Alice in Wonderland theme and each room features a different type of pairing of cheese and wine. We're ever so glad we ventured onto this deadend street. Many others seemed to had the same idea. Each room is packed. More purchases.
We drive back down to West Dry Creek road, turn left, heading north towards Raymond Burr Vineyard. It's closed! A man is standing there waving people off. Oh nuts!
It is getting late, close to 4 pm, the time when winetasting stops, and we have been so enjoying each winery. Our cheeks are red and it hasn't been because of the warm day! Crowds are out today and there have been traffic jams which made for a slow go in places. But there has been a great festive mood. One of us remarks that "even the men are smiling". Of course, everyone is smiling, men, women, babies, children - oh yes, by all means, bring the children along, lots of great picnic areas in many of the wineries - even the dogs are smiling.
We decide to end the day at Ferrari-Carano, that gorgeous Italian villa at the top of Dry Creek Road. We spend an hour there, buying more things, but not tasting any more wine. Our palates are jaded. The last minutes wre spent in their lovely garden. Ferrari Carano made for the perfect end to a perfect day.
We head back to Highway 101 on Canyon Road, passing J Pedroncelli and Canyon Wineries. Then we speed down Highway 101 towards Rohnert Park, which is between Santa Rosa and Petaluma.
To be continued
Mar 8th, 2004, 08:11 AM
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Saturday evening, lodging and restaurant:
I had made my first bid on Priceline for our lodging this Saturday night. It had been on a lark, a kind of spur of the moment thought of, "well, why not? I can always make reservations someplace if the Priceline bid fails." So, here, for those thinking of bidding on Priceline, is my experience. And I do recommend Priceline, so you know from the start that this was a good experience!
Two weeks before coming, I went into biddingfortravel.com and read everything there was to read about hotel bidding. Then I went into priceline.com and entered 3* and one district only with a bid price of $40. I had read earlier on biddingfortravel that there had been winning bids of $48 for the Doubletree in Rohnert Park. The $40 bid failed, as expected, so I was directed to return to the original page and change my parameters a little. I added another district and rebid at $45. This also failed. So I stopped. I could have continued with adding more districts, one by one, or lowering the star category by adding 2.5*, etc. But I stopped and was told I had to wait 72 hours.
Well, I waited a week, because somewhere I had read that, the closer to the need date, the better the chances (in certain cases!). Figuring that it's March and there would still be vacancies, I chanced it and waited until the week before need date.
I did, again, one district and 3* and $48. The immediate response was that I could have a room for $59. I opened another screen into biddingfortravel and saw a successful bid at $57. So, back at Priceline, I entered a new bid at $57. Well, I got the Rohnert Park Doubletree at $57! Plus tax, it came to $70. This is listed as a four diamond property on AAA, with AAA prices at $89 to $239 before taxes.
Was this a good price? Yeah, man!
So, what was the property like? It was set back from the freeway, so was difficult to find. The first tower is for the shopping center which is by the freeway, even though the tower sports "Doubletree Hotel" at the top.
To get to the hotel, you take the Golf Course Exit and at the third light turn into Doubletree Lane. Don't wander around the shopping center like we did, trying to find the hotel! Lo!
The hotel itself is built in a huge square with a large courtyard in the middle surrounded by 245 units. If successful on Priceline, you will probably end up where we were: at the furthest distance away from the entrance. BUT, there are side doors at each corner, so it's not that much of a hike to get to your room. Besides, way in the back, the view is westward over a small lake and into a beautiful sunset. Not bad!
The room was huge with two double beds. Triple-sheeted! A TV which we didn't watch. Plenty of towels, enough for the jacuzzi and swimming pool located in the center of the huge square. We didn't use the swimming hole either, but maybe next year, we'll bring swimsuits! Nice, big luxurious towels. Very quiet back there, except for a gaggle of white geese - honkety-honk-honk-honk! walking around the beautiful, well-manicured golf course which surrounds the hotel on three sides (which is why the hotel is so hard to find!).
The hotel is a burnt Siena orange and is built in the California Spanish architectural style. There's a nice fountain at the entry lobby. Staff was VERY friendly and nice. Nice coffee shop/restaurant, with a good Sunday brunch (we didn't partake). VERY friendly wait staff as well. Lots of conference rooms, space for wedding parties,...and golfers, golfers, golfers.
Next morning at the crack of dawn I did my usual thing - go exploring. It was misty and foggy and cold but this morning fog soon burns off and a beautiful day emerges. About a dozen golfers were already at it. I met one golfer from Sacramento who said he likes to come here for getting away from it all and getting in some golf as well. This is a good place to relax.
So, do I recommend the Doubletree? Yep! Yep! Yep! (My rating system is how many yeps. This gets a very high score: 3 yeps out of 4).
Dinner: We asked the front desk/concierge at the Doubletree for a recommendation. She even printed out directions for us!
Dinner was at Nicolino's in Cotati (just two freeway exits from where we were staying) on the Old Redwood Highway. Wonderful Italian food at good prices. No more wine for us at this stage, so dinner was under $20 a person. Excellent recommendation!
Rating: 3 yeps
To be continued
I had made my first bid on Priceline for our lodging this Saturday night. It had been on a lark, a kind of spur of the moment thought of, "well, why not? I can always make reservations someplace if the Priceline bid fails." So, here, for those thinking of bidding on Priceline, is my experience. And I do recommend Priceline, so you know from the start that this was a good experience!
Two weeks before coming, I went into biddingfortravel.com and read everything there was to read about hotel bidding. Then I went into priceline.com and entered 3* and one district only with a bid price of $40. I had read earlier on biddingfortravel that there had been winning bids of $48 for the Doubletree in Rohnert Park. The $40 bid failed, as expected, so I was directed to return to the original page and change my parameters a little. I added another district and rebid at $45. This also failed. So I stopped. I could have continued with adding more districts, one by one, or lowering the star category by adding 2.5*, etc. But I stopped and was told I had to wait 72 hours.
Well, I waited a week, because somewhere I had read that, the closer to the need date, the better the chances (in certain cases!). Figuring that it's March and there would still be vacancies, I chanced it and waited until the week before need date.
I did, again, one district and 3* and $48. The immediate response was that I could have a room for $59. I opened another screen into biddingfortravel and saw a successful bid at $57. So, back at Priceline, I entered a new bid at $57. Well, I got the Rohnert Park Doubletree at $57! Plus tax, it came to $70. This is listed as a four diamond property on AAA, with AAA prices at $89 to $239 before taxes.
Was this a good price? Yeah, man!
So, what was the property like? It was set back from the freeway, so was difficult to find. The first tower is for the shopping center which is by the freeway, even though the tower sports "Doubletree Hotel" at the top.
To get to the hotel, you take the Golf Course Exit and at the third light turn into Doubletree Lane. Don't wander around the shopping center like we did, trying to find the hotel! Lo!
The hotel itself is built in a huge square with a large courtyard in the middle surrounded by 245 units. If successful on Priceline, you will probably end up where we were: at the furthest distance away from the entrance. BUT, there are side doors at each corner, so it's not that much of a hike to get to your room. Besides, way in the back, the view is westward over a small lake and into a beautiful sunset. Not bad!
The room was huge with two double beds. Triple-sheeted! A TV which we didn't watch. Plenty of towels, enough for the jacuzzi and swimming pool located in the center of the huge square. We didn't use the swimming hole either, but maybe next year, we'll bring swimsuits! Nice, big luxurious towels. Very quiet back there, except for a gaggle of white geese - honkety-honk-honk-honk! walking around the beautiful, well-manicured golf course which surrounds the hotel on three sides (which is why the hotel is so hard to find!).
The hotel is a burnt Siena orange and is built in the California Spanish architectural style. There's a nice fountain at the entry lobby. Staff was VERY friendly and nice. Nice coffee shop/restaurant, with a good Sunday brunch (we didn't partake). VERY friendly wait staff as well. Lots of conference rooms, space for wedding parties,...and golfers, golfers, golfers.
Next morning at the crack of dawn I did my usual thing - go exploring. It was misty and foggy and cold but this morning fog soon burns off and a beautiful day emerges. About a dozen golfers were already at it. I met one golfer from Sacramento who said he likes to come here for getting away from it all and getting in some golf as well. This is a good place to relax.
So, do I recommend the Doubletree? Yep! Yep! Yep! (My rating system is how many yeps. This gets a very high score: 3 yeps out of 4).
Dinner: We asked the front desk/concierge at the Doubletree for a recommendation. She even printed out directions for us!
Dinner was at Nicolino's in Cotati (just two freeway exits from where we were staying) on the Old Redwood Highway. Wonderful Italian food at good prices. No more wine for us at this stage, so dinner was under $20 a person. Excellent recommendation!
Rating: 3 yeps
To be continued
Mar 8th, 2004, 08:17 AM
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Hi, Kal!
RD was laid up horizontal with the flu, so she wasn't able to organize further - really too bad! I'm so sorry she missed the whole thing! I just went with my friends from SillyCone Valley.
I had so hoped to meet you and Mrs Kal this trip! And other Fodorites as well! Maybe next year? For sure we've got to do this barrel tasting GTG! >
<
RD was laid up horizontal with the flu, so she wasn't able to organize further - really too bad! I'm so sorry she missed the whole thing! I just went with my friends from SillyCone Valley.
I had so hoped to meet you and Mrs Kal this trip! And other Fodorites as well! Maybe next year? For sure we've got to do this barrel tasting GTG! >
<
Mar 8th, 2004, 08:32 AM
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Bummer! I'll have to drop her a line.
Keep the Friday after T'giving open. We may do another GTG in Yountville, if not sooner, if everyone is up for it....just hope we have better weather this time!
Thanks for whetting the vino appetite!
Kal
Keep the Friday after T'giving open. We may do another GTG in Yountville, if not sooner, if everyone is up for it....just hope we have better weather this time!
Thanks for whetting the vino appetite!
Kal
Mar 8th, 2004, 09:06 AM
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Thanks so much for the report!! We're headed to the area on Thurs. I can't wait!!! The weather should be beautiful and our first stop is Chateau Souverain for lunch at the bistro!! Only three more days!! ***kim***
Mar 8th, 2004, 09:23 AM
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Thanks so much for the detailed trip report. I have been to the Napa/Sonoma area once but just on a day trip from my home exchange in San Carlos. I went to Yountville. I look forward to spending more time there if someone gives me a house swap nearby!
Mar 8th, 2004, 09:48 AM
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Hi Lauren! You should give one of the hotels a try in the area. The Younville Inn is gorgeous and won't break the bank. The Harvest Inn in St. Helena is also very nice.
Have you been to Calistoga? There are many moderately priced properties there but our favorite is the Indian Springs Resort. www.indianspringscalistoga.com What a treat to float in that mineral pool, very soothing!!
I hope you get to visit the area and spend more time there. It's just an amazing part of our state. Springtime is the best!! ***kim*** We're staying at the Hotel Healdsburg, right on the Plaza. Mmmmm!!!!
Another great place is the Sonoma Mission Inn which I love. Our stay there last Spring was heavenly! I'll stop by the place on Thurs. to stock up on the Apricots N' Cream lotions!! And check out the renovations.
Have you been to Calistoga? There are many moderately priced properties there but our favorite is the Indian Springs Resort. www.indianspringscalistoga.com What a treat to float in that mineral pool, very soothing!!
I hope you get to visit the area and spend more time there. It's just an amazing part of our state. Springtime is the best!! ***kim***
We're staying at the Hotel Healdsburg, right on the Plaza. Mmmmm!!!!Another great place is the Sonoma Mission Inn which I love. Our stay there last Spring was heavenly! I'll stop by the place on Thurs. to stock up on the Apricots N' Cream lotions!! And check out the renovations.
Mar 8th, 2004, 10:03 AM
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Sunday
Sunday dawns foggy and cold and at 7am there is lots of dew on the golf course grass. Bits of mist swirl up from the golf course.
I walk by Latitude, a trendy restaurant in the nearby shopping center. The girl at the front desk had recommended Latitude to us last night, but we had found it too noisy after a day of wine sampling. Great place for the young and the young-at-heart!
Latitude sits right on small Roberts Lake. The gaggle of geese have a whole bunch of mallard ducks as tag alongs. Nobody is up except the geese and the ducks and a few golfers on the golf course. The entire shopping center is closed.
I walk around to the back of Latitude and watch the wispy mist curl up from the waters of the lake and the fog swirling about the trees along the shore. White geese and brilliant mallards glide quietly on the waters and in and out of the mists. Why is it that I never have a camera during phantasmagoric moments such as this?
Parts of the Latitude landscape is still dug up mud. As I exit to the front, the gardener has just arrived with all his tools in his truck. We chat and he describes what will be done: there will be fire pits and a lawn and there will be a fountain, over 20 feet high, in the middle of the lake. Another place to revisit next year!
Circling to the far side of the shopping center, I purchase two Sunday papers from the small Market/deli that has just opened shop. I ask the proprietor if this is the "slow" season for him. Oh, no, he replies, it is always busy here. From the golfers. From the other hotel guests. But especially from the apartments which line one side of Golf Course Drive. Nice apartments.
I carry my newspapers to the hotel coffee shop and settle down to read the Sunday funnies. The wait staff patiently allow me to drink and drink and drink coffee before ordering breakfast. By this time, one of my travel companions has joined me and we have a nice breakfast to get our stomachs ready for the day's sampling.
Another "early" start. It's 11am by the time we hit the road. The magical fog and mists of the morning have burnt away and a brilliant blue sky awaits us. It is so warm that it's shirtsleeve weather.
Yesterday had been Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley, today will be mostly Russian River Valley. We try to get to Foppiano's, but drive too far north and end up taking the Central Healdsburg exit. Heading west after the exit, we come across Mill Brook Winery with balloons flying, indicating that it is part of the barrel tasting festivals. Today it's more serious tasting. We like their 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, their 1999 Zinfandel Reserve, and their 2000 Estate Chardonnay Reserve.
We ask for directions to Foppiano's and were told to get back on the freeway and take the next exit south. Foppiano's turns out to the the typical winery that I remembered from "the old days". It's small and wasn't on the list engaging in the festivals. However, they are doing a little pouring and their store has the cutest baby clothes with a grape theme.
We decide to forego J Winery and Rodney Strong which are just down the street, because they are not on the list either. It appeared that Foppiano's wasn't really set up for massive numbers of visitors, so maybe J and R Strong aren't either.
We head back north one freeway exit to the "Central Healdsburg" exit and get back on Westside road, driving past Mill Creek and debated whether to stop at Armida Winery or not. Since it was still early, we decided to stop. A serendipitous, not-planned-for stop which turned out to be our favorite stop this trip.
Armida's 2001 Zinfandel had taken a double gold at the Sacramento State Fair where the wines from all regions in California compete. Their 2001 Chardonnay had gotten a gold. Their Zinfandel and Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon had gotten silver and bronze.
We liked the Armida wines, and thought their 2002 Zin was particularly good. Surprised?
Armida had: the best view - way up on top of a hill
the best spread - they had so much food and steak! One of our party had enough steak to last for breakfast, lunch and dinner! (Warn't me!)
and, of course, the best zin that we tasted on this trip
One more "best" - outside in the parking lot was a STRETCH HUMMER from California Wine Tours (800-294-6386 or 707-939-7225) with Gary "Count" Jungels as escort-driver. Besides stretch limos and fire engines for guided tours, this was a best new idea for tour transportation!
The steak meat was from Willowside Meats (2 miles N of Santa Rosa, on the corner of Willowside & Guerneville Roads) and was sooooo good!
Not finished yet with the bests: Armida also had the best theme - their geodesic dome had been turned into "Heaven" with white sheets covering the barrels, a local harpist playing heavenly harp music and stars and angels swirling about overhead.
Behind "Heaven" was "Hell". I was told to "go to Hell", so I went. Hate to say this, but Hell was better than Heaven. It was more imaginative: there were wines "to die for", headless bodies, and generally as dark and ghoulish as heaven was white and airy and light. A lot of fun.
A tossup between Michel Schlumberger's Mad Hatter Party theme and Armida's Heaven and Hell theme. Armida won out by a squeak for us.
We sat out on their lovely terrace overlooking the valley and didn't want to move. It was so idyllic.
A couple from San Francisco give recommendations to get us going again. Time's awasting!
We continue on Westside Road to Hop Kiln, a wonderful historic building that had been moved to its current site in four pieces. More purchases, of olive oil (by Asti). How fragrant the Meyer Lemon Olive Oil! More tastings! The one labelled "A Thousand Flowers" was good, a combo with Gewurtztraminer and other fragrant grapes. Good! Good! Can't remember what else I was tasting! Let's keep going.
Davis Bynum next. Good, good. Very pricey wine and, since what we tasted was the stuff in the barrels, it's hard to tell why the wine after it is bottled is so pricey.
One of my friends has to go to the restroom and hands her glass to me. With a glass in each hand, I approach the counter and ask the DB man not to pour too much as I am the DD. "Designated Driver and you have TWO glasses in your hands?" We laugh uproariously. It's so easy to laugh today!
Wish we had more time, but we have to rush on to La Crema, where they are sold out of the wine we detoured this far to get! Every winery we visited has told us that it's been "crazy" for them this weekend. Guess it's been great for business!
Back rushing northward to J Winery because that's what the San Francisco couple at Armida's had recommended. On the freeway, off the freeway, bouncing along the country roads. We arrive at J Winery at 20 to 4. We get to the bar downstairs. The server looks down their noses at us and inform us that there is a charge of $10 for trying three of their wines, plus they will throw in a plate of hors d'ouevres. We ask where the "barrel tasting" is and they sniff and point up a flight of small steps. Very trendy place, but, good grief, so different from the wonderful hospitality we had received so far! We dash up the stairs and arrive in the cool interior of a gallery walkway where tours can view the winemaking. Upstairs the people are extremely friendly. Well, they certainly made up in hospitality for the Martians downstairs! Good Gewurtztraminer.
Great buffalo and black bean chili and a bunch of sweet things. Good wine also. "If you call the winery, they'll fax you a copy of the recipe. They get so many requests for their recipes..." Well, if you get a copy of that chili recipe, post it here, willya please?
We hurry next door to Rodney Strong only to have the door close on us. It's only 5 to 4, but they are taking no more wandering tastetesters. Boo hoo!
J and Rodney Strong are very trendy, and complete opposites of Foppiano's down the street.
We head up north to Rafanelli's. Yes, it's that San Francisco couple's recommendation again! Apparently the Rafanelli Zinfandel cannot be purchased in stores and, even at the winery, only in limited quantities.
By the time we zigged zagged our way back to Rafanelli's up north, their gate is shut. We park along the side of the road. Along came one of their trucks and the gate opened. We dashed in on foot and hiked up the steep slope. Yes, yes, we were able to snag three bottles (the limit)of their precious Zinfandel just as they were closing down everything. Whew!
The trunk of our car is stuffed full to the gills with purchases. We head home in the brilliant sunshine of another perfect day. What a wonderful adventure! Next year, we're coming back for sure! This is their 28th (?) 29th(?) year of doing barrel tasting in the
"Sonoma" Wine Region.
A couple of loose ends:
At Michel Schlumberger, they were pairing a pork dish with their 2002 Zinfandel. The recipe will be available online at their website. It was a wonderful pairing!
One winery we visited yesterday that I forgot to mention was David Coffaro. Rock music, caters to the very young crowd. So totally different from the nearby Ferrari-Carano.
While at D Caffaro, we saw a happy bunch of young people spill off a red fire engine, a different kind of touring transportation. I would assume that, depending on the type of transportation, you would get to go to different types of wineries. The stretch Hummer probably doesn't go to David Caffaro. Lo!
Well, razzledazzle, you asked for a report, so here it is! Hope it wasn't too boring reading. So very sorry you missed this perfect weekend for winetasting. But there's always next year! Stay well till then!
easytraveler
(and easydrinker too!)
Sunday dawns foggy and cold and at 7am there is lots of dew on the golf course grass. Bits of mist swirl up from the golf course.
I walk by Latitude, a trendy restaurant in the nearby shopping center. The girl at the front desk had recommended Latitude to us last night, but we had found it too noisy after a day of wine sampling.
Great place for the young and the young-at-heart!Latitude sits right on small Roberts Lake. The gaggle of geese have a whole bunch of mallard ducks as tag alongs. Nobody is up except the geese and the ducks and a few golfers on the golf course. The entire shopping center is closed.
I walk around to the back of Latitude and watch the wispy mist curl up from the waters of the lake and the fog swirling about the trees along the shore. White geese and brilliant mallards glide quietly on the waters and in and out of the mists. Why is it that I never have a camera during phantasmagoric moments such as this?
Parts of the Latitude landscape is still dug up mud. As I exit to the front, the gardener has just arrived with all his tools in his truck. We chat and he describes what will be done: there will be fire pits and a lawn and there will be a fountain, over 20 feet high, in the middle of the lake. Another place to revisit next year!
Circling to the far side of the shopping center, I purchase two Sunday papers from the small Market/deli that has just opened shop. I ask the proprietor if this is the "slow" season for him. Oh, no, he replies, it is always busy here. From the golfers. From the other hotel guests. But especially from the apartments which line one side of Golf Course Drive. Nice apartments.
I carry my newspapers to the hotel coffee shop and settle down to read the Sunday funnies. The wait staff patiently allow me to drink and drink and drink coffee before ordering breakfast. By this time, one of my travel companions has joined me and we have a nice breakfast to get our stomachs ready for the day's sampling.
Another "early" start. It's 11am by the time we hit the road. The magical fog and mists of the morning have burnt away and a brilliant blue sky awaits us. It is so warm that it's shirtsleeve weather.
Yesterday had been Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley, today will be mostly Russian River Valley. We try to get to Foppiano's, but drive too far north and end up taking the Central Healdsburg exit. Heading west after the exit, we come across Mill Brook Winery with balloons flying, indicating that it is part of the barrel tasting festivals. Today it's more serious tasting. We like their 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, their 1999 Zinfandel Reserve, and their 2000 Estate Chardonnay Reserve.
We ask for directions to Foppiano's and were told to get back on the freeway and take the next exit south. Foppiano's turns out to the the typical winery that I remembered from "the old days". It's small and wasn't on the list engaging in the festivals. However, they are doing a little pouring and their store has the cutest baby clothes with a grape theme.
We decide to forego J Winery and Rodney Strong which are just down the street, because they are not on the list either. It appeared that Foppiano's wasn't really set up for massive numbers of visitors, so maybe J and R Strong aren't either.
We head back north one freeway exit to the "Central Healdsburg" exit and get back on Westside road, driving past Mill Creek and debated whether to stop at Armida Winery or not. Since it was still early, we decided to stop. A serendipitous, not-planned-for stop which turned out to be our favorite stop this trip.
Armida's 2001 Zinfandel had taken a double gold at the Sacramento State Fair where the wines from all regions in California compete. Their 2001 Chardonnay had gotten a gold. Their Zinfandel and Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon had gotten silver and bronze.
We liked the Armida wines, and thought their 2002 Zin was particularly good. Surprised?
Armida had: the best view - way up on top of a hill
the best spread - they had so much food and steak! One of our party had enough steak to last for breakfast, lunch and dinner! (Warn't me!)
and, of course, the best zin that we tasted on this trip
One more "best" - outside in the parking lot was a STRETCH HUMMER from California Wine Tours (800-294-6386 or 707-939-7225) with Gary "Count" Jungels as escort-driver. Besides stretch limos and fire engines for guided tours, this was a best new idea for tour transportation!
The steak meat was from Willowside Meats (2 miles N of Santa Rosa, on the corner of Willowside & Guerneville Roads) and was sooooo good!
Not finished yet with the bests: Armida also had the best theme - their geodesic dome had been turned into "Heaven" with white sheets covering the barrels, a local harpist playing heavenly harp music and stars and angels swirling about overhead.
Behind "Heaven" was "Hell". I was told to "go to Hell", so I went. Hate to say this, but Hell was better than Heaven.
It was more imaginative: there were wines "to die for", headless bodies, and generally as dark and ghoulish as heaven was white and airy and light. A lot of fun. A tossup between Michel Schlumberger's Mad Hatter Party theme and Armida's Heaven and Hell theme. Armida won out by a squeak for us.
We sat out on their lovely terrace overlooking the valley and didn't want to move. It was so idyllic.
A couple from San Francisco give recommendations to get us going again. Time's awasting!
We continue on Westside Road to Hop Kiln, a wonderful historic building that had been moved to its current site in four pieces. More purchases, of olive oil (by Asti). How fragrant the Meyer Lemon Olive Oil! More tastings! The one labelled "A Thousand Flowers" was good, a combo with Gewurtztraminer and other fragrant grapes. Good! Good! Can't remember what else I was tasting! Let's keep going.
Davis Bynum next. Good, good. Very pricey wine and, since what we tasted was the stuff in the barrels, it's hard to tell why the wine after it is bottled is so pricey.
One of my friends has to go to the restroom and hands her glass to me. With a glass in each hand, I approach the counter and ask the DB man not to pour too much as I am the DD. "Designated Driver and you have TWO glasses in your hands?" We laugh uproariously. It's so easy to laugh today!
Wish we had more time, but we have to rush on to La Crema, where they are sold out of the wine we detoured this far to get! Every winery we visited has told us that it's been "crazy" for them this weekend. Guess it's been great for business!
Back rushing northward to J Winery because that's what the San Francisco couple at Armida's had recommended. On the freeway, off the freeway, bouncing along the country roads. We arrive at J Winery at 20 to 4. We get to the bar downstairs. The server looks down their noses at us and inform us that there is a charge of $10 for trying three of their wines, plus they will throw in a plate of hors d'ouevres. We ask where the "barrel tasting" is and they sniff and point up a flight of small steps. Very trendy place, but, good grief, so different from the wonderful hospitality we had received so far! We dash up the stairs and arrive in the cool interior of a gallery walkway where tours can view the winemaking. Upstairs the people are extremely friendly. Well, they certainly made up in hospitality for the Martians downstairs! Good Gewurtztraminer.
Great buffalo and black bean chili and a bunch of sweet things. Good wine also. "If you call the winery, they'll fax you a copy of the recipe. They get so many requests for their recipes..." Well, if you get a copy of that chili recipe, post it here, willya please?
We hurry next door to Rodney Strong only to have the door close on us. It's only 5 to 4, but they are taking no more wandering tastetesters. Boo hoo!
J and Rodney Strong are very trendy, and complete opposites of Foppiano's down the street.
We head up north to Rafanelli's. Yes, it's that San Francisco couple's recommendation again! Apparently the Rafanelli Zinfandel cannot be purchased in stores and, even at the winery, only in limited quantities.
By the time we zigged zagged our way back to Rafanelli's up north, their gate is shut. We park along the side of the road. Along came one of their trucks and the gate opened. We dashed in on foot and hiked up the steep slope. Yes, yes, we were able to snag three bottles (the limit)of their precious Zinfandel just as they were closing down everything. Whew!
The trunk of our car is stuffed full to the gills with purchases. We head home in the brilliant sunshine of another perfect day. What a wonderful adventure! Next year, we're coming back for sure! This is their 28th (?) 29th(?) year of doing barrel tasting in the
"Sonoma" Wine Region.
A couple of loose ends:
At Michel Schlumberger, they were pairing a pork dish with their 2002 Zinfandel. The recipe will be available online at their website. It was a wonderful pairing!
One winery we visited yesterday that I forgot to mention was David Coffaro. Rock music, caters to the very young crowd. So totally different from the nearby Ferrari-Carano.
While at D Caffaro, we saw a happy bunch of young people spill off a red fire engine, a different kind of touring transportation. I would assume that, depending on the type of transportation, you would get to go to different types of wineries. The stretch Hummer probably doesn't go to David Caffaro. Lo!
Well, razzledazzle, you asked for a report, so here it is! Hope it wasn't too boring reading. So very sorry you missed this perfect weekend for winetasting. But there's always next year! Stay well till then!
easytraveler
(and easydrinker too!)
Mar 8th, 2004, 02:02 PM
#11
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GREAT JUMPIN' CHIPMUNKS!
ET: YOU had WAYYYYYYY toooooooo
much fun
in MY backyard. As I read your
most fun-omenol report I can "see" exactly everywhere you went!
The barrel tasting event was supposed to be part of my weeklong B'day celebration-but we know what happened 'bout that
--as I'm back from being a whiter shade of pale
:-&
I'm going to ask Mr.R5 if we can rent the STTTTTTTTTTRRRRRREEEEEEECCCCCC
HHHHHHHHHHUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMMM
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMEEEE
EEEERRRRRRRR
next year, to celebrate from THIS year
;-)
of course you and The Kals and a few other notorious Wine'o and Borgs must be present to win (wine?)
So happy you had fun! (Armida is such a hoot!)
and Thank YOU for your EXCELLent report.
[-o<
R5
ET: YOU had WAYYYYYYY toooooooo
much fun
in MY backyard. As I read your
most fun-omenol report I can "see" exactly everywhere you went!
The barrel tasting event was supposed to be part of my weeklong B'day celebration-but we know what happened 'bout that
--as I'm back from being a whiter shade of pale
:-&
I'm going to ask Mr.R5 if we can rent the STTTTTTTTTTRRRRRREEEEEEECCCCCC
HHHHHHHHHHUUUUUUUUMMMMMMMMMM
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMEEEE
EEEERRRRRRRR
next year, to celebrate from THIS year
;-)
of course you and The Kals and a few other notorious Wine'o and Borgs must be present to win (wine?)
So happy you had fun! (Armida is such a hoot!)
and Thank YOU for your EXCELLent report.
[-o<
R5
Mar 9th, 2004, 06:11 AM
#12
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Kal: fer sure! fer sure! Whenever you want to call another GTG, I'm ready with my wine glass!
kimamom: GO! ENJOY! It'll probably be a lot tamer than last weekend, but the weather should be boootiful and, yes, this is the best time of year to go with such lovely weather. The drives, especially through the Russian River Valley, were great, but it was fantastic everywhere.
I hope you discover your own little gem like Armida! Let us know how your trip goes!
Lauren: don't wait for a home exchange. Just bid on Priceline, get a room for a fantastic price, and enjoy a weekend. Have a good time!
razzledazzle: Hey, there! YOU'RE UP! Terrific! ><
Yes, yes! Let's do the Stretch Hummer next year! If enough Fodorites sign up, we may need the fire engine too! Should be a hoot! Hope the weather breaks for us!
I should probably say this in a whisper - (whisper) the Sonoma Wine Region is way more fun than the Napa Wine Region. The Napa Wine Region has become El Snooty in some ways; still fun, tho. You're so fortunate to live in such a WUNNERFUL place, razz.
To all those coming to California: plan on at least two days for visiting any wine region. You really need that amount of time to allow yourself to relax and let all the tensions flow away.
Cheers! Everyone!
kimamom: GO! ENJOY! It'll probably be a lot tamer than last weekend, but the weather should be boootiful and, yes, this is the best time of year to go with such lovely weather. The drives, especially through the Russian River Valley, were great, but it was fantastic everywhere.
I hope you discover your own little gem like Armida!
Let us know how your trip goes!Lauren: don't wait for a home exchange. Just bid on Priceline, get a room for a fantastic price, and enjoy a weekend. Have a good time!
razzledazzle: Hey, there! YOU'RE UP! Terrific! >
<Yes, yes! Let's do the Stretch Hummer next year! If enough Fodorites sign up, we may need the fire engine too! Should be a hoot! Hope the weather breaks for us!
I should probably say this in a whisper - (whisper) the Sonoma Wine Region is way more fun than the Napa Wine Region. The Napa Wine Region has become El Snooty in some ways; still fun, tho. You're so fortunate to live in such a WUNNERFUL place, razz.
To all those coming to California: plan on at least two days for visiting any wine region. You really need that amount of time to allow yourself to relax and let all the tensions flow away.
Cheers! Everyone!
Mar 10th, 2004, 09:16 AM
#14
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Thanks, Easytraveler! We have reservations at the Hotel Healdsburg. The concierge upgraded our room to the Premiere King with a 6' soaking tub. We're getting the room for 168/night. We also have a $130 credit to use for dinner at the Dry Creek Kitchen. We already have a reservation! I can't wait! I heard you can bring in your own Sonoma wine with no corkage fee!
We hope to visit as many places as possible and then head over to Santa Rosa for a little businees. I hope to try Syrah for lunch and then Cafe La Haye for dinner in Sonoma on the way back. Thanks to Regina (owner of Syrah in Santa Rosa) on Chowhound for letting me know about her place!! I'll post a detailed report when I return!! Healdsburg here we come!!! ***kim***
We hope to visit as many places as possible and then head over to Santa Rosa for a little businees. I hope to try Syrah for lunch and then Cafe La Haye for dinner in Sonoma on the way back. Thanks to Regina (owner of Syrah in Santa Rosa) on Chowhound for letting me know about her place!! I'll post a detailed report when I return!! Healdsburg here we come!!! ***kim***
Mar 10th, 2004, 10:13 AM
#15
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Kal: Will do!!! Look forward to another GTG!! >-
Kim: Have a GREEEEAT time! sounds like you have a terrific plan! And PLEASE DO post afterwards.
You wouldn't run into too many of those traffic directors this week
>-Kim: Have a GREEEEAT time! sounds like you have a terrific plan! And PLEASE DO post afterwards.
You wouldn't run into too many of those traffic directors this week
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