SAP's Maui TR
Jul 6th, 2004, 05:17 PM
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SAP's Maui TR
Boy, did we love Maui! (Sorry, Kal and gyppilou, but maybe even more than Awesome Kauai.)
My vacation buddies included my husband (hereinafter "PAP"); my 14-year-old daughter (MS) and our 6-year-old son (JP) for seven short, sweet days.
Day 1 - Aloha:
The Fairmont Kea Lani is beautiful - a classic, elegant, Mediterranean style open to the tropical air. It works very well with the Hawaiian landscaping and art. Other touches in the decor are reminiscent of Bombay or Morocco, especially the lounge overlooking the garden and ocean. My overall first impression of the hotel, reinforced during the week, was of a crisp, white linen dress pinned with an orchid. This effect was echoed in the excellent service.
When we arrived, we received a fresh lei greeting (but no juice, probably because of the late hour). JP got a cute candy lei, which disappeared into his mouth w/in 2 days. Since we arrived so late (around 10 p.m.), no upgrades from our standard room were available. As it turns out, we preferred our secluded side view of the trees anyway. There was more privacy on the lanai where I spent every morning surrounded by the sounds of birds, drinking coffee, writing trip notes and planning our day. There was even a peripheral view of the ocean if you craned your neck a bit.
The suite, the marble bath and the lanai were all impressively large. The bath included 2 pedestal sinks, a tub and separate open shower (w/instantly hot water & great pressure), and another small room with a door for the toilet. The sofa pulled out to a bed for the kids and the mini-kitchen had a sink, small fridge and microwave. Better yet, the lanai was large enough for a patio table with four chairs and a lounge chair with side table.
My only real gripe was a somewhat musty smell we noticed right away (from the fridge, I think), but either it dissipated during our stay or we got used to it. There was also a stain on the carpet near the sofa -- no big deal. I kept thinking, "Well, if this is the cheapest room in the place left at the end of the day, it's not too shabby after all."
The turn down service every night had a nice little touch. In addition to the orchid they would leave on each pillow, there was a card with a different Hawaiian story or custom. JP really started looking forward to these and we brought our "collection" home to put in the scrapbook.
My vacation buddies included my husband (hereinafter "PAP"); my 14-year-old daughter (MS) and our 6-year-old son (JP) for seven short, sweet days.
Day 1 - Aloha:
The Fairmont Kea Lani is beautiful - a classic, elegant, Mediterranean style open to the tropical air. It works very well with the Hawaiian landscaping and art. Other touches in the decor are reminiscent of Bombay or Morocco, especially the lounge overlooking the garden and ocean. My overall first impression of the hotel, reinforced during the week, was of a crisp, white linen dress pinned with an orchid. This effect was echoed in the excellent service.
When we arrived, we received a fresh lei greeting (but no juice, probably because of the late hour). JP got a cute candy lei, which disappeared into his mouth w/in 2 days. Since we arrived so late (around 10 p.m.), no upgrades from our standard room were available. As it turns out, we preferred our secluded side view of the trees anyway. There was more privacy on the lanai where I spent every morning surrounded by the sounds of birds, drinking coffee, writing trip notes and planning our day. There was even a peripheral view of the ocean if you craned your neck a bit.
The suite, the marble bath and the lanai were all impressively large. The bath included 2 pedestal sinks, a tub and separate open shower (w/instantly hot water & great pressure), and another small room with a door for the toilet. The sofa pulled out to a bed for the kids and the mini-kitchen had a sink, small fridge and microwave. Better yet, the lanai was large enough for a patio table with four chairs and a lounge chair with side table.
My only real gripe was a somewhat musty smell we noticed right away (from the fridge, I think), but either it dissipated during our stay or we got used to it. There was also a stain on the carpet near the sofa -- no big deal. I kept thinking, "Well, if this is the cheapest room in the place left at the end of the day, it's not too shabby after all."
The turn down service every night had a nice little touch. In addition to the orchid they would leave on each pillow, there was a card with a different Hawaiian story or custom. JP really started looking forward to these and we brought our "collection" home to put in the scrapbook.
Jul 6th, 2004, 05:49 PM
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Day 2 - Wonderful Wailea:
What a memorable day! It started out pretty slow, getting into that laid-back Hawaiian mode. Breakfast was loco moco at Da Kitchen, which filled us up for the entire day. Afterwards, we bought t-shirts in tourist shops and groceries at the Safeway in Pi'ilani Village. By stocking up our mini-fridge w/yogurt, fruit & juice, we were able to keep costs down a little w/breakfast on the lanai most mornings.
In the early p.m., we drove south as far as the Ahihi-Kinau Reserve. The desolate black-rock landscape created by this most recent Maui lava flow is really cool and worth some pics. We didn't drive any further 'cause everyone wanted to get to a beach & the only way down involved a hike across lava.
We drove back up to Big Beach, a large & popular place which just didn't feel like our style. So, then we walked down the road to Secret Beach, where a wedding was taking place. I liked the little cove much more and it was amusing to see the bride & her maids try to walk in the sand w/gowns and high heels.
Back at the hotel, we checked out Kea Lani's terraced pools, lawns & Polo Beach, then walked the Wailea beachside path to the Four Seasons. It seemed nice, but we liked the Kea Lani just a bit better. We relaxed on the lounge chairs until dinner while the kids played in the surf. They grew to like this beach so much that none else could compare for the rest of the trip. I thought this was pretty funny 'cause Polo is not exactly known as the best Maui beach. For them though, the small crescent was a perfect combo of gentle slope, soft white sand and enough good waves for bodysurfing.
Dinner at Nick's Fishmarket was fabulous. When money-conscious PAP thinks $200-plus is worth it, you better believe it's good. We had an outside table but there wasn't an insect or feathered beggar in sight. Both service & food were top-notch. I'd never before had a waiter replace my water glass simply because the ice was starting to melt.
The sunset was just lovely and there was a torch-lighting ceremony featuring a kane in traditional dress w/conch shell. We enjoyed watching a wine decanting ritual, too, but it was the strawberry flambee' our neighbors ordered that really impressed the kids. The waiter poured a flaming liquid (I assume it was rum) in a long, molten stream back and forth from one wine glass to another before pouring it onto the strawberries. (Can you imagine the mistakes they make in training?) To put out the flame, the people had to pick up the fruit with a fondue fork and blow on it or dip it in a sauce. You wouldn't want to drop that in your lap! For the rest of the trip, MS wanted to go back to Nick's just to order that dessert.
After dinner, we went down to the beach for stargazing. The staff had set up lounge chairs in pairs all around the sand, but we had the place to ourselves. The tide was up, the sky was clear (for the only time all week) and the moon was almost full.
Phil and I then had a round of drinks in the "Bombay" lounge to cap off the night after the kids went up to the room. I really liked the open view of the gardens and koi pond. The warm, silky night air is one of my favorite things about Hawaii. In CA, it's usually much colder after dark.
What a memorable day! It started out pretty slow, getting into that laid-back Hawaiian mode. Breakfast was loco moco at Da Kitchen, which filled us up for the entire day. Afterwards, we bought t-shirts in tourist shops and groceries at the Safeway in Pi'ilani Village. By stocking up our mini-fridge w/yogurt, fruit & juice, we were able to keep costs down a little w/breakfast on the lanai most mornings.
In the early p.m., we drove south as far as the Ahihi-Kinau Reserve. The desolate black-rock landscape created by this most recent Maui lava flow is really cool and worth some pics. We didn't drive any further 'cause everyone wanted to get to a beach & the only way down involved a hike across lava.
We drove back up to Big Beach, a large & popular place which just didn't feel like our style. So, then we walked down the road to Secret Beach, where a wedding was taking place. I liked the little cove much more and it was amusing to see the bride & her maids try to walk in the sand w/gowns and high heels.
Back at the hotel, we checked out Kea Lani's terraced pools, lawns & Polo Beach, then walked the Wailea beachside path to the Four Seasons. It seemed nice, but we liked the Kea Lani just a bit better. We relaxed on the lounge chairs until dinner while the kids played in the surf. They grew to like this beach so much that none else could compare for the rest of the trip. I thought this was pretty funny 'cause Polo is not exactly known as the best Maui beach. For them though, the small crescent was a perfect combo of gentle slope, soft white sand and enough good waves for bodysurfing.
Dinner at Nick's Fishmarket was fabulous. When money-conscious PAP thinks $200-plus is worth it, you better believe it's good. We had an outside table but there wasn't an insect or feathered beggar in sight. Both service & food were top-notch. I'd never before had a waiter replace my water glass simply because the ice was starting to melt.
The sunset was just lovely and there was a torch-lighting ceremony featuring a kane in traditional dress w/conch shell. We enjoyed watching a wine decanting ritual, too, but it was the strawberry flambee' our neighbors ordered that really impressed the kids. The waiter poured a flaming liquid (I assume it was rum) in a long, molten stream back and forth from one wine glass to another before pouring it onto the strawberries. (Can you imagine the mistakes they make in training?) To put out the flame, the people had to pick up the fruit with a fondue fork and blow on it or dip it in a sauce. You wouldn't want to drop that in your lap! For the rest of the trip, MS wanted to go back to Nick's just to order that dessert.
After dinner, we went down to the beach for stargazing. The staff had set up lounge chairs in pairs all around the sand, but we had the place to ourselves. The tide was up, the sky was clear (for the only time all week) and the moon was almost full.
Phil and I then had a round of drinks in the "Bombay" lounge to cap off the night after the kids went up to the room. I really liked the open view of the gardens and koi pond. The warm, silky night air is one of my favorite things about Hawaii. In CA, it's usually much colder after dark.
Jul 6th, 2004, 07:11 PM
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What joy, what rapture to return home from a lousy day at work, only to find myself in the first sentence of your wonderful trip report. I am giddy. But you must understand. I have always thought Maui was just as bad as Kauai. I see no purpose of ever leaving the vicinity of your Kaanappali Hotel, unless you're spending the day in Lahaina....otherwise boooring!!! Did no one tell the bride, stelleto's in the sand is worse than wearing white after laborday!!! Looking forward to the rest. So far, you write lovely and make me homesick!!!
Jul 6th, 2004, 08:15 PM
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Thanks for the feedback bonniebroad & gyppilou. Glad to hear we all despise the same places.
Day 3: Central Maui & Then Some
After a quick yogurt/fruit breakfast on the lanai, we went snorkeling at Ulua Beach. We were glad to get there early 'cause it was packed by 9 a.m. Apparently,it's a VERY popular snorkeling & dive spot. The water was a tad cloudy, but we saw a fairly nice variety of fish around the rocks to the right: the ubiquitous butterflyfish, filefish, goatfish w/their goofy whiskers, needlefins (which freak me out a little when you spot them at eye-level), triggerfish (the proverbial humuhumus) and a big, ugly, orange guy w/spots that I followed all the way back to shore. I think he was either a boxfish or toby and was becoming so friendly, I was about to name him.
Noonish, we drove up to 'Iao Valley -- so gorgeously lush but there were tourists galore. We did the baby walk up to the Needle lookout where a local was selling palm frond baskets. There were several kids diving off the rocks & bridge into a rather shallow-looking pool. PAP got some great action shots of this, along with the sign that says "No Jumping Off the Bridge." Of course, then the tourists wouldn't have their show of local color and the kids wouldn't have fun making the crowd gasp.
Lunch was at a little Mex place, Las Pinatas, tucked into a corner of a shopping center on Dairy Rd. in Kahului. We were looking for something else when we found it. That's what I love about trips to new places. The chicken burrito was good & their pineapple salsa was just like Maui Tacos'.
We drove to Pa'ia on a mission to find the Hana Bay Juice Co., which sells the "On the Road Again" CD tour guide of Hana Hwy as recommended by our very own gone2maui. Pa'ia is a North Shore hippie/surfer village like a tiny version of Santa Cruz. We couldn't find the shop, so we drove up to Ho'okipa Beach to watch the windsurfers. The kids climbed down to explore the lava rock tidepools while PAP fooled around with the camera. It was REALLY windy on the lookout bluff.
We had so much xtra time that we bumped up the next day's plans & drove down to Tedeschi Winery. O-o-oh, just loved those knockout views all the way down south. I didn't realize that the island's west coast was visible from Upcountry. In fact, the whole middle of the island was much more pleasantly pretty than I expected. Even the cows looked fat & happy. Tedeschi's pineapple wine was surprisingly good. We bought a bottle of the drier vintage and some very tasty guava & mango jellies (which I've been sampling every morning since my return.)
After driving back north by way of Makawao/Baldwin to get a different perspective, we walked up and down the main (only) street of Pai'a looking for the elusive Hana Bay Juice until a friendly local finally pointed us in the right direction. Naturally, it was closed. I could see the blankety-blank CD right there on the counter. FYI future visitors, it's at the intersection of Baldwin and Hana Hwy (36) right next to the Wine Corner and right in front of our eyes the whole time. A sign with big letters says "Box Lunches" and, in very small letters underneath, it says "Hana Bay Juice Co." Sheesh, you'd think it'd be the other way around. There was no indication of what their hours might be (this is Hawaii, after all), but I was happy to see that they sold smoothies and box lunches since the Hana picnic basket Cafe Ciao was selling back at the hotel cost about $50 per person for a lousy sandwich & chips.
Dinner was at the infamous Mama's Fish House. Yes, they have a cool location and an over-the-top island theme. No, we will not be patronizing them again. After Nick's, it was actually a bit of a letdown. Mama's just seemed more touristy, almost cheesy. I suppose I would have been more charmed by the decor if we'd had a better experience overall. Even w/reservations, though, we had to cool our heels for at leats 15-20 minutes in a busy passageway before we got a table. We couldn't wait in the bar 'cause it was packed w/disgruntled others waiting for tables. Even though several staff members repeatedly walked by, not one of them offered us a drink.
When we finally got a table, it didn't have a view although I had requested one over a month before - maybe it's first come/first served.
The food itself (except the drinks) was admittedly very good. I really liked my macadamia encrusted mahi-mahi. The chef's "complimentary" demitasse cup of banana curry bisque was tasty and unusual. The desserts were lovely, especially the coconut cheesecake. Unfortunately, the real thorn (euphemistically speaking) was our condescending waiter. He had a definite smirk about him. He also neglected to tell us several things about the menu and specials that we oerheard another very pleasant waiter tell our neighbors at the next table. In fact, he didn't even tell us that they had a keiki menu until after we'd ordered pupus for the kids. This, combined with the fact that the bill was at least $30 higher than Nick's, kind of left a sour taste in our mouths.
I say, the best thing about Mama's is that Captain Aloha (from the tour guide CD) is one of their valets.
After dinner, we joined the other tourists taking pictures under the tiki torches on the beach. Overall, it was a good day and we certainly covered a lot of territory. In retrospect, I agree w/many other Fodorites that maybe Mama's would be a better idea for drinks & pupus than a full dinner. That way you get the ambiance w/out the crowds & sticker shock. (Just don't order the mai-tai.)
Day 3: Central Maui & Then Some
After a quick yogurt/fruit breakfast on the lanai, we went snorkeling at Ulua Beach. We were glad to get there early 'cause it was packed by 9 a.m. Apparently,it's a VERY popular snorkeling & dive spot. The water was a tad cloudy, but we saw a fairly nice variety of fish around the rocks to the right: the ubiquitous butterflyfish, filefish, goatfish w/their goofy whiskers, needlefins (which freak me out a little when you spot them at eye-level), triggerfish (the proverbial humuhumus) and a big, ugly, orange guy w/spots that I followed all the way back to shore. I think he was either a boxfish or toby and was becoming so friendly, I was about to name him.
Noonish, we drove up to 'Iao Valley -- so gorgeously lush but there were tourists galore. We did the baby walk up to the Needle lookout where a local was selling palm frond baskets. There were several kids diving off the rocks & bridge into a rather shallow-looking pool. PAP got some great action shots of this, along with the sign that says "No Jumping Off the Bridge." Of course, then the tourists wouldn't have their show of local color and the kids wouldn't have fun making the crowd gasp.
Lunch was at a little Mex place, Las Pinatas, tucked into a corner of a shopping center on Dairy Rd. in Kahului. We were looking for something else when we found it. That's what I love about trips to new places. The chicken burrito was good & their pineapple salsa was just like Maui Tacos'.
We drove to Pa'ia on a mission to find the Hana Bay Juice Co., which sells the "On the Road Again" CD tour guide of Hana Hwy as recommended by our very own gone2maui. Pa'ia is a North Shore hippie/surfer village like a tiny version of Santa Cruz. We couldn't find the shop, so we drove up to Ho'okipa Beach to watch the windsurfers. The kids climbed down to explore the lava rock tidepools while PAP fooled around with the camera. It was REALLY windy on the lookout bluff.
We had so much xtra time that we bumped up the next day's plans & drove down to Tedeschi Winery. O-o-oh, just loved those knockout views all the way down south. I didn't realize that the island's west coast was visible from Upcountry. In fact, the whole middle of the island was much more pleasantly pretty than I expected. Even the cows looked fat & happy. Tedeschi's pineapple wine was surprisingly good. We bought a bottle of the drier vintage and some very tasty guava & mango jellies (which I've been sampling every morning since my return.)
After driving back north by way of Makawao/Baldwin to get a different perspective, we walked up and down the main (only) street of Pai'a looking for the elusive Hana Bay Juice until a friendly local finally pointed us in the right direction. Naturally, it was closed. I could see the blankety-blank CD right there on the counter. FYI future visitors, it's at the intersection of Baldwin and Hana Hwy (36) right next to the Wine Corner and right in front of our eyes the whole time. A sign with big letters says "Box Lunches" and, in very small letters underneath, it says "Hana Bay Juice Co." Sheesh, you'd think it'd be the other way around. There was no indication of what their hours might be (this is Hawaii, after all), but I was happy to see that they sold smoothies and box lunches since the Hana picnic basket Cafe Ciao was selling back at the hotel cost about $50 per person for a lousy sandwich & chips.
Dinner was at the infamous Mama's Fish House. Yes, they have a cool location and an over-the-top island theme. No, we will not be patronizing them again. After Nick's, it was actually a bit of a letdown. Mama's just seemed more touristy, almost cheesy. I suppose I would have been more charmed by the decor if we'd had a better experience overall. Even w/reservations, though, we had to cool our heels for at leats 15-20 minutes in a busy passageway before we got a table. We couldn't wait in the bar 'cause it was packed w/disgruntled others waiting for tables. Even though several staff members repeatedly walked by, not one of them offered us a drink.
When we finally got a table, it didn't have a view although I had requested one over a month before - maybe it's first come/first served.
The food itself (except the drinks) was admittedly very good. I really liked my macadamia encrusted mahi-mahi. The chef's "complimentary" demitasse cup of banana curry bisque was tasty and unusual. The desserts were lovely, especially the coconut cheesecake. Unfortunately, the real thorn (euphemistically speaking) was our condescending waiter. He had a definite smirk about him. He also neglected to tell us several things about the menu and specials that we oerheard another very pleasant waiter tell our neighbors at the next table. In fact, he didn't even tell us that they had a keiki menu until after we'd ordered pupus for the kids. This, combined with the fact that the bill was at least $30 higher than Nick's, kind of left a sour taste in our mouths.
I say, the best thing about Mama's is that Captain Aloha (from the tour guide CD) is one of their valets.
After dinner, we joined the other tourists taking pictures under the tiki torches on the beach. Overall, it was a good day and we certainly covered a lot of territory. In retrospect, I agree w/many other Fodorites that maybe Mama's would be a better idea for drinks & pupus than a full dinner. That way you get the ambiance w/out the crowds & sticker shock. (Just don't order the mai-tai.)
Jul 6th, 2004, 08:58 PM
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For anyone else who might be searching for the "On the Road Again" CD: they sell it at Long's Drugs. I know it doesn't help you now, sap, but, hopefully we will learn that you were able to get a copy in the next part of your trip report. Did you ask Jed, aka Captain Aloha, about it?
Jul 7th, 2004, 12:06 PM
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You're right gone2maui, I had forgotten about Long's - but it all worked out for the best as you'll see. Unfortunately, even if I had seen Captain Aloha at Mama's, I wouldn't have recognized him 'cause we didn't have the CD yet.
Day 4 - Hanging Loose
We drove down to the Maui Prince for a champagne brunch at Prince Court. The food & service were both quite good for the price. The hotel seemed just a little dated, or maybe it was intentionally retro, hard to say. They had a very pretty courtyard garden & ponds (with a LOT of koi) which we walked through on our way down to the beach. Maluaka Beach has a gentle, rolling surf and thick, peachy, squishy soft sand that feels like stepping on sponge cake. The kids wanted to stay, but PAP and I didn't have our swimsuits and it was getting very hot & humid. It's on the top of our list for the next trip, though.
We continued south down Makena Alanui Rd. looking for beaches we couldn't find despite our many maps. The access roads are not well marked (probably for a reason). PAP & I don't make the best orienteering team, anyway, which has led to many a vacation argument. Fortunately on this trip, we were saved by a laid-back, s'all good attitude.
We eventually found Oneuli down a little dirt road, tucked up under the north side of Red Hill aka Earthquake Hill aka Pu'u Ola'i. Despite it's nickname, the sand isn't actually black. It reminded me of ground colored peppercorns w/red, white, orange & black grains. Blue says its crushed lava mixed w/pulverized coral. Oneuli would be especially nice in the a.m. before it gets hot. There was only one other family when we arrived and a couple of turtles playing in the surf. MS snorkeled w/them for a while, but it was nearly noon and waves were increasing as the wind came around the SW corner of the island. She did say it was better than Ulua.
The entire lazy Sunday afternoon was spent at the Kea Lani pools. MS and I had drinks (virgin lava flow for her) at Polo Grill's swim-up bar. We sat next to a fun couple from Florida who had half a heat on and hadn't slept in nearly 24 hours. They had just spent their first morning on the island trapped in a grueling bike ride tour down Haleakala & spent some time entertaining us w/their adventures. Apparently, the rules of the tour require that everyone has to stay behind the slowest person. This time, it was a girl who said she wanted to enjoy the views on the way down. My new Florida friend told me he finally lost his temper and yelled, "It's the same *%*#@ view the whole way down, honey. It just keeps getting closer!"
It was downright decadent being waited on by the attentive staff. There was an abundant supply of fresh towels and cold water. The drinks were very good, but not cheap of course. One drink on the menu with an intriguing combination of ingredients was $17. Let me know if you ever try that one. For an additional $7 (yes, you read that right), you could even liven up the fantasy by having any drink served in a real pineapple. Fortunately, my favorite drink already came in a faux coconut shell and I now have a little collection. They look like they'd make cool ashtrays, except for the fact that we don't smoke. M-m-m-m, tacky candleholders for my next luau, perhaps?
The perfect pampered touch, though, was the pineapple waiter. He patroled the pool area with a tray, distributing fruit slices like appetizers at a party. I liked it all the more 'cause it was free. (Although it occurs to me now he might have expected a tip. I'm terrible about knowing when to tip.)
Other freebies besides the yoga classes included a castle bouncer on the lawn (for the kids, I assume; although adults might be tempted after some time at the swim-up bar); water aerobics; hula & ukulele lessons; juggling; face painting and an orchid lei making class.
It all sounded kinda fun, but the only thing we participated in was the lei making. It was so idyllic to sit on the lawn under the shade trees, stringing together fragrant orchids and watching the sunlight playing on the waves. I was beginning to feel like something out of an old British novel (and I swear I'd only had one drink), but my brief little illusion was shattered when MS got into a sudden huff because she'd cut her lei too short.
The original plan had been to drive up to Haleakala for the sunset, but we were just too darned content to pile in the car. PAP went back to the room for a nap and the kids & I went down to Polo Beach. MS taught JP how to bodysurf and then we walked the beachside path past the Four Seasons to the Grand Wailea. Wow, are GW's grounds extensive & beautiful. It's now my favorite hotel next to the Kea Lani, and the effect is definitely more Hawaiian. Somehow, though, its size & grandeur make it less serene and elegant. If the Kea Lani is white linen, the grand dame GW is a flowing flowered mumu.
Day 4 - Hanging Loose
We drove down to the Maui Prince for a champagne brunch at Prince Court. The food & service were both quite good for the price. The hotel seemed just a little dated, or maybe it was intentionally retro, hard to say. They had a very pretty courtyard garden & ponds (with a LOT of koi) which we walked through on our way down to the beach. Maluaka Beach has a gentle, rolling surf and thick, peachy, squishy soft sand that feels like stepping on sponge cake. The kids wanted to stay, but PAP and I didn't have our swimsuits and it was getting very hot & humid. It's on the top of our list for the next trip, though.
We continued south down Makena Alanui Rd. looking for beaches we couldn't find despite our many maps. The access roads are not well marked (probably for a reason). PAP & I don't make the best orienteering team, anyway, which has led to many a vacation argument. Fortunately on this trip, we were saved by a laid-back, s'all good attitude.
We eventually found Oneuli down a little dirt road, tucked up under the north side of Red Hill aka Earthquake Hill aka Pu'u Ola'i. Despite it's nickname, the sand isn't actually black. It reminded me of ground colored peppercorns w/red, white, orange & black grains. Blue says its crushed lava mixed w/pulverized coral. Oneuli would be especially nice in the a.m. before it gets hot. There was only one other family when we arrived and a couple of turtles playing in the surf. MS snorkeled w/them for a while, but it was nearly noon and waves were increasing as the wind came around the SW corner of the island. She did say it was better than Ulua.
The entire lazy Sunday afternoon was spent at the Kea Lani pools. MS and I had drinks (virgin lava flow for her) at Polo Grill's swim-up bar. We sat next to a fun couple from Florida who had half a heat on and hadn't slept in nearly 24 hours. They had just spent their first morning on the island trapped in a grueling bike ride tour down Haleakala & spent some time entertaining us w/their adventures. Apparently, the rules of the tour require that everyone has to stay behind the slowest person. This time, it was a girl who said she wanted to enjoy the views on the way down. My new Florida friend told me he finally lost his temper and yelled, "It's the same *%*#@ view the whole way down, honey. It just keeps getting closer!"
It was downright decadent being waited on by the attentive staff. There was an abundant supply of fresh towels and cold water. The drinks were very good, but not cheap of course. One drink on the menu with an intriguing combination of ingredients was $17. Let me know if you ever try that one. For an additional $7 (yes, you read that right), you could even liven up the fantasy by having any drink served in a real pineapple. Fortunately, my favorite drink already came in a faux coconut shell and I now have a little collection. They look like they'd make cool ashtrays, except for the fact that we don't smoke. M-m-m-m, tacky candleholders for my next luau, perhaps?
The perfect pampered touch, though, was the pineapple waiter. He patroled the pool area with a tray, distributing fruit slices like appetizers at a party. I liked it all the more 'cause it was free. (Although it occurs to me now he might have expected a tip. I'm terrible about knowing when to tip.)
Other freebies besides the yoga classes included a castle bouncer on the lawn (for the kids, I assume; although adults might be tempted after some time at the swim-up bar); water aerobics; hula & ukulele lessons; juggling; face painting and an orchid lei making class.
It all sounded kinda fun, but the only thing we participated in was the lei making. It was so idyllic to sit on the lawn under the shade trees, stringing together fragrant orchids and watching the sunlight playing on the waves. I was beginning to feel like something out of an old British novel (and I swear I'd only had one drink), but my brief little illusion was shattered when MS got into a sudden huff because she'd cut her lei too short.
The original plan had been to drive up to Haleakala for the sunset, but we were just too darned content to pile in the car. PAP went back to the room for a nap and the kids & I went down to Polo Beach. MS taught JP how to bodysurf and then we walked the beachside path past the Four Seasons to the Grand Wailea. Wow, are GW's grounds extensive & beautiful. It's now my favorite hotel next to the Kea Lani, and the effect is definitely more Hawaiian. Somehow, though, its size & grandeur make it less serene and elegant. If the Kea Lani is white linen, the grand dame GW is a flowing flowered mumu.
Jul 7th, 2004, 07:00 PM
#11
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Celine, don't sell yourself short...a wonderful report you gave.
Sap, you all did good. Infamous overtippers, I would never think of tipping the Kea Lani pineapple guy, or the 4S strawberry girl, or fudgecickle guy. I might tip them later in the day for simply being wonderful, but not for a piece of pineapple.
Of course, if they're serving the pineapple on the beach wearing bridesmaids stelletto's, well, of course you should tip them for their education. Someday they will become rocket scientists!!!!
Sap, you all did good. Infamous overtippers, I would never think of tipping the Kea Lani pineapple guy, or the 4S strawberry girl, or fudgecickle guy. I might tip them later in the day for simply being wonderful, but not for a piece of pineapple.
Of course, if they're serving the pineapple on the beach wearing bridesmaids stelletto's, well, of course you should tip them for their education. Someday they will become rocket scientists!!!!
Jul 7th, 2004, 09:33 PM
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What a JOY to read your report! Thanks for all the great details. Almost feel like I was there... My daughter would have come undone over cutting the lei too sort as well. Yikes! Nine more days! I can't wait to sink my toes into peachy sand!
Jul 8th, 2004, 11:24 AM
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Thanks, guys. I'm sort of re-living everything myself a bit during the writing; seems like ages ago <big sigh>. Celine - your trip report was great w/lots of useful details. It's fun to learn from each other's experiences: s'all good, right?
Now, hopefully I won't tick anyone off w/the next part . .
Day 5 - West Maui Wonders & Woes
We rounded up the family early & drove around the west side up to Honolua Bay for snorkeling. The snorkeling was REALLY GOOD. Not only did we see the same types of fish as at Ulua, there were also angelfish, tangs, surgeonfish, moorish idols, some beautiful parrotfish and a barracuda that scared the heck out of me. He was probably harmless, but I swam away pretty quickly all the same. (Like he was going to chase me, right?) The water in the bay was colder than at the beaches & my fingers were numb after awhile. If I wanted to spend any significant length of time here, I think I'd bring a wetsuit.
The best part of Honolua Bay, though, was the short trek through the tropical forest to the water. It reminded the kids of the Amazon Trail computer game. There were coconut husks on the ground everywhere and rope vines strong enough to support a real Tarzan. I recently read another post by someone who said they had to take steep stairs down to the bay. If so, they must have taken another route.
I'm sorry to say that the rest of West Maui was a disappointment for us. I'd met some folks on the beach the previous day who absolutely raved about the area and so I was really looking forward to it. My thought now is that we just caught it on a bad day. For one thing, it rained off & on all morning (although that didn't decrease Hana's charm for me later in the week). We also didn't visit the grounds/oceanfronts of any hotels, which may have given me an entirely different perspective. Many of the places I did see on our mini tours through Kapalua, Napili & Ka'anapali seemed crowded together and kind of tired or faded, as if the color was rubbing off the bloom of their heyday.
The views of the emerald mountains were lovely, especially from Lahaina. In many of the towns, though, the ocean was completely blocked off by wide swathes of gritty little condos and motels.
Initially, we had a hard time locating the access roads to Kapalua and Napili, which we had planned to visit before breakfast. We found the Gazebo first instead and waited in line by the condo pool for about 45 minutes. It certainly was not the worst place to stand in line. The views of Molokai, which you can't even see from Wailea, were a nice change of scenery. There were even spinner dolphins frolicking at some distant spot between the islands (the only dolphins I saw all week).
The Gazebo mostly lived up to the hype. My breakfast, the combo macnut/banana/pineapple pancakes, was the best. (After a couple of days, my family started wondering why I always knew what to order. It's because of all my tips from fellow Fodorites!) The kids ordered white chocolate chip pancakes - dessert for breakfast, oh boy. PAP stuck with plain old, boring buttermilk w/linguica on the side and, of course, was disappointed. That's like going to the French Laundry and ordering french fries & Coke.
The next few hours were an exercise in frustration. After finding an access road & nabbing a parking spot, we'd lug our stuff to one of the beaches. As soon as we'd get set up, it would start to rain. A lot. Three times we repeated this exact scenario. It was beginning to feel like Groundhog Day. I would sit there smiling and repeating "This is supposed to be such a nice swimming beach. It'll clear up in a minute," but no one was buying it. The kids said, "These beaches don't have enough tide to bodysurf." PAP said "Geez, it's too crowded here." I dug in my heels, though, because I just KNEW that West Maui had to be better than this. Everybody said so.
We gave up and went looking for shave ice. The Blue Book raves about Ashley's Yogurt and Ice Cream in Kahana Gateway, but the place was empty & sign gone. A lady in the next shop said the owner had left to open some restaurant in Kihei. (PAP made a crack that everyone would rather be in Kihei.) Thinking Whaler's Village might have something to offer, we drove down to Ka'anapali. Instead of shave ice, we opted for tropical drinks/smoothies at the Hula Grill. It's a very cute place, though crowded, and the drinks were great. MS is now addicted to virgin lava flows. We would have tried the food, but we were still stuffed w/Gazebo pancakes.
It had quit raining and JP decided he liked Ka'anapali Beach. It reminded me of Big Beach, but I wanted to try snorkeling at Black Rock. My dear PAP, however, was beginning to suffer from caffeine deprivation and the rigors of my persistent schedule and was in no mood to hang out. MS and I did get some good shopping in before the boys started going nuts and the only reason we managed that was because PAP found a coffee vendor. (I should learn to bring a thermos w/me wherever we go.) He did have a point, though, that his idea of a vacation isn't a mall.
Lahaina was just what I thought it would be and my mixed feelings were exactly as expected. It may have a happening nightlife, but I think it's kind of a sad place. The historical monuments, genuine cultural significance and awesome Banyan tree are the best parts. Then, like in so many places that have lost their nascent industry, the cheesy tourist shops and activity hawkers completely mar the original charm. I grew up in the Black Hills of SD, near Mt. Rushmore and Deadwood, where the overblown western theme is necessary to attract bread-and-butter visitors. Of course, whaling, six-shooters & gambling are probably best left in the past anyway, hmm? Now, we can glorify them from a respectable distance.
Maybe Lahaina sparkles more at night, with the harbor lights and music from the luaus. I wanted to find out, but that will have to wait.
At last we found shave ice in an ice cream store at the corner of Front & Dickenson (forgot the name). The prices ticked off poor PAP, who must have felt like he was bleeding $$$. We just ordered two for the kids & shared them. I told JP to get the POG w/coconut ice cream on the bottom. It was Lappert's and a most yummy pick-me-up. (I notice that it sounds like all we do on vacation is eat & drink!)
I wanted to spend more time on the historical tour, but the museums were closing and everyone else was itching to get back. I had made reservations at Pacific O, but we would have had to hang for almost 2 hrs. I did insist that we at least go look at the place, check out the menu & view (1/2 hoping PAP would change his mind). Their location on the waterfront is definitely a perfect sunset spot, but I settled for a deal to come back next trip. Anyone who goes there, please let me know your thoughts so I can be there vicariously in the meantime.
Basically, after Nick's & Mama's, PAP wanted to steer away from expensive seafood & cloth napkins. He said he wanted something simple & down-to-earth. We actually found the perfect fix. After a clean-up back at the hotel, we drove to the Bada Bing in Kihei. This little diner put PAP in a better mood instantly, especially after he found the perfect mafia-inspired black shirt for his teenage son back home. The prices andn food were both good - unpretentious Italian heavy on the garlic. The kids were happy that at least we were eating something they liked. The spinach-artichoke dip & garlic bread balls were sinfully good and went straight to my hips. I do admit the Sinatra theme was ever-so tacky and overdone, but it worked as a "family" place.
Now, hopefully I won't tick anyone off w/the next part . .
Day 5 - West Maui Wonders & Woes
We rounded up the family early & drove around the west side up to Honolua Bay for snorkeling. The snorkeling was REALLY GOOD. Not only did we see the same types of fish as at Ulua, there were also angelfish, tangs, surgeonfish, moorish idols, some beautiful parrotfish and a barracuda that scared the heck out of me. He was probably harmless, but I swam away pretty quickly all the same. (Like he was going to chase me, right?) The water in the bay was colder than at the beaches & my fingers were numb after awhile. If I wanted to spend any significant length of time here, I think I'd bring a wetsuit.
The best part of Honolua Bay, though, was the short trek through the tropical forest to the water. It reminded the kids of the Amazon Trail computer game. There were coconut husks on the ground everywhere and rope vines strong enough to support a real Tarzan. I recently read another post by someone who said they had to take steep stairs down to the bay. If so, they must have taken another route.
I'm sorry to say that the rest of West Maui was a disappointment for us. I'd met some folks on the beach the previous day who absolutely raved about the area and so I was really looking forward to it. My thought now is that we just caught it on a bad day. For one thing, it rained off & on all morning (although that didn't decrease Hana's charm for me later in the week). We also didn't visit the grounds/oceanfronts of any hotels, which may have given me an entirely different perspective. Many of the places I did see on our mini tours through Kapalua, Napili & Ka'anapali seemed crowded together and kind of tired or faded, as if the color was rubbing off the bloom of their heyday.
The views of the emerald mountains were lovely, especially from Lahaina. In many of the towns, though, the ocean was completely blocked off by wide swathes of gritty little condos and motels.
Initially, we had a hard time locating the access roads to Kapalua and Napili, which we had planned to visit before breakfast. We found the Gazebo first instead and waited in line by the condo pool for about 45 minutes. It certainly was not the worst place to stand in line. The views of Molokai, which you can't even see from Wailea, were a nice change of scenery. There were even spinner dolphins frolicking at some distant spot between the islands (the only dolphins I saw all week).
The Gazebo mostly lived up to the hype. My breakfast, the combo macnut/banana/pineapple pancakes, was the best. (After a couple of days, my family started wondering why I always knew what to order. It's because of all my tips from fellow Fodorites!) The kids ordered white chocolate chip pancakes - dessert for breakfast, oh boy. PAP stuck with plain old, boring buttermilk w/linguica on the side and, of course, was disappointed. That's like going to the French Laundry and ordering french fries & Coke.
The next few hours were an exercise in frustration. After finding an access road & nabbing a parking spot, we'd lug our stuff to one of the beaches. As soon as we'd get set up, it would start to rain. A lot. Three times we repeated this exact scenario. It was beginning to feel like Groundhog Day. I would sit there smiling and repeating "This is supposed to be such a nice swimming beach. It'll clear up in a minute," but no one was buying it. The kids said, "These beaches don't have enough tide to bodysurf." PAP said "Geez, it's too crowded here." I dug in my heels, though, because I just KNEW that West Maui had to be better than this. Everybody said so.
We gave up and went looking for shave ice. The Blue Book raves about Ashley's Yogurt and Ice Cream in Kahana Gateway, but the place was empty & sign gone. A lady in the next shop said the owner had left to open some restaurant in Kihei. (PAP made a crack that everyone would rather be in Kihei.) Thinking Whaler's Village might have something to offer, we drove down to Ka'anapali. Instead of shave ice, we opted for tropical drinks/smoothies at the Hula Grill. It's a very cute place, though crowded, and the drinks were great. MS is now addicted to virgin lava flows. We would have tried the food, but we were still stuffed w/Gazebo pancakes.
It had quit raining and JP decided he liked Ka'anapali Beach. It reminded me of Big Beach, but I wanted to try snorkeling at Black Rock. My dear PAP, however, was beginning to suffer from caffeine deprivation and the rigors of my persistent schedule and was in no mood to hang out. MS and I did get some good shopping in before the boys started going nuts and the only reason we managed that was because PAP found a coffee vendor. (I should learn to bring a thermos w/me wherever we go.) He did have a point, though, that his idea of a vacation isn't a mall.
Lahaina was just what I thought it would be and my mixed feelings were exactly as expected. It may have a happening nightlife, but I think it's kind of a sad place. The historical monuments, genuine cultural significance and awesome Banyan tree are the best parts. Then, like in so many places that have lost their nascent industry, the cheesy tourist shops and activity hawkers completely mar the original charm. I grew up in the Black Hills of SD, near Mt. Rushmore and Deadwood, where the overblown western theme is necessary to attract bread-and-butter visitors. Of course, whaling, six-shooters & gambling are probably best left in the past anyway, hmm? Now, we can glorify them from a respectable distance.
Maybe Lahaina sparkles more at night, with the harbor lights and music from the luaus. I wanted to find out, but that will have to wait.
At last we found shave ice in an ice cream store at the corner of Front & Dickenson (forgot the name). The prices ticked off poor PAP, who must have felt like he was bleeding $$$. We just ordered two for the kids & shared them. I told JP to get the POG w/coconut ice cream on the bottom. It was Lappert's and a most yummy pick-me-up. (I notice that it sounds like all we do on vacation is eat & drink!)
I wanted to spend more time on the historical tour, but the museums were closing and everyone else was itching to get back. I had made reservations at Pacific O, but we would have had to hang for almost 2 hrs. I did insist that we at least go look at the place, check out the menu & view (1/2 hoping PAP would change his mind). Their location on the waterfront is definitely a perfect sunset spot, but I settled for a deal to come back next trip. Anyone who goes there, please let me know your thoughts so I can be there vicariously in the meantime.
Basically, after Nick's & Mama's, PAP wanted to steer away from expensive seafood & cloth napkins. He said he wanted something simple & down-to-earth. We actually found the perfect fix. After a clean-up back at the hotel, we drove to the Bada Bing in Kihei. This little diner put PAP in a better mood instantly, especially after he found the perfect mafia-inspired black shirt for his teenage son back home. The prices andn food were both good - unpretentious Italian heavy on the garlic. The kids were happy that at least we were eating something they liked. The spinach-artichoke dip & garlic bread balls were sinfully good and went straight to my hips. I do admit the Sinatra theme was ever-so tacky and overdone, but it worked as a "family" place.
Jul 8th, 2004, 12:22 PM
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Oh my gosh, sap!! I was in the middle of reading your wonderful TR and everyone's reply when the phone rang! Boy, what a downer. I was really into your descriptions and almost believing I was there with you! Yours is a TR that I will copy and make notes about before we go in October. You have given great reviews of several of the places we wanted to be sure to see. Thank you so much!
Jul 8th, 2004, 06:02 PM
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Professional? I wish. I used to write a long time ago in another life, but I never got past my fear of dialogue -- didn't occur to me I could skip that by being a columnist. Then, I was a legal secretary for 10 years, which is remarkably like editing (but don't tell PAP I said that 'cause he's one of them). Now I survive children for a living: 4 teens and a 6-year-old. Suddenly I realize time is rolling along rather quickly & I still haven't figured out what I want to do when I grow up. Wait...I know! I'll be a professional traveler. Uh, the only problem would be funding. I gotta keep reading these Fodors tips to figure out my way around that.
I've got three mo' days to post, but I don't want to overwhelm (bore) everyone in one fell swoop.
I've got three mo' days to post, but I don't want to overwhelm (bore) everyone in one fell swoop.
