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Old May 24th, 2011, 11:35 PM
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San Francisco-wine country holiday planning

We're hoping for some help please with our plan to visit San Francisco and the wine country for 10 days in September-October this year.
The 10 days would include several days in San Francisco itself - we're thinking at least five days in a self-catering apartment, but would appreciate suggestions regarding length of stay and areas for such accommodation in the city. We'd also like to visit the wine country and were thinking of basing ourselves in Healdsburg. We would like to visit Sausalito, Half Moon Bay and Carmel, but would be interested to hear any other suggestions.
We'd rent a car for part of the holiday, but were wondering what about the best way to approach this to avoid backtracking. Perhaps San Francisco first, initially without a car and then pick up the car, do day trips to Sausalito and Half Moon Bay, overnight in Carmel and then head out to Healdsburg?
Any help would be appreciated. We are coming from Cheltenham in England.
Thank you
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Old May 25th, 2011, 08:27 AM
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You might want to focus on areas north of San Francisco Or south. Otherwise you are traversing the city, and the traffic can be considerable.

Hwy 1 near Half Moon Bay is damaged due to a washout, I believe. It may still be closed, but don't quote me on that.

From San Francisco to Sausalito, you don't need a car. Take the ferry, which is much more efficient and fun.

I recommend you stay in San Francisco without a car for 4 or 5 nights. Then get a car and head north. You can visit Point Reyes, which is gorgeous, and other coastal gems. Plus wine country. Basing yourself in Healdsburg may be a good choice, but others will give you more specifics.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 08:43 AM
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One thing is - be aware that that is HIGH season in the wine country. Accommodations will be expensive, and you should probably book now.

Not sure why Half Moon Bay is on your list. It's a nice town to stop in if you're passing through the area (happens to be about 20 minutes from where I live), but I wouldn't go out of my way to visit.

Healdsburg is a lovely town, and a great base for exploring the area.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 09:26 AM
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Thank you for the advice. Half Moon Bay just sounded nice in our guide book.
Any advice on which areas to focus on for self-catering accommodation in San Francisco itself please?
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Old May 25th, 2011, 09:49 AM
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No, Hwy 1 near Half Moon Bay is NOT washed out. The road closure is south of Big Sur, approx. 100 mi. south of HMB.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 09:51 AM
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I don't know what's available or how the areas are described for short-term rental, but if it were me, I'd like to stay in Noe Valley, the Castro, Duboce Triangle, Fillmore Street area of Pacific Heights, Cow Hollow or the Marina.

Are you looking on vrbo.com or homeaway.com?
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Old May 25th, 2011, 09:51 AM
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Thanks, Hazel.

Not sure about self-catering, but I know people who have stayed at the Beresford which has kitchens.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 11:45 AM
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We used homeaway for Provence a couple of years ago, so we will certainly investigate those areas on the website. Thanks so much for the list. Appreciate it.
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Old May 26th, 2011, 03:58 PM
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Lucky for you and your exchange rate it won't feel like highway robbery during that time of the year.

As much as we enjoyed our stay in Healdsburg on our last trip, it's one of those places that once you've seen it, well you've seen it. As a first time visit I'd look into Napa or Sonoma as a base because there's more to see and do. Our main reason for staying there was to have a couple of private tastings in the vicinity. If there isn't a specific wine or restaurant that is a must you might be disappointed.

If you decide to stay in Healdsburg and don't do well surrounded by fru fru decor( which is everywhere) the H2 Hotel is an excellent value. A couple of doors up is the higher end sister property Hotel Healdsburg and I didn't notice much of a difference between the two that was worth paying nearly double the price. They do have a tub in the room though.

http://www.h2hotel.com/home/
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Old May 27th, 2011, 07:52 AM
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Thank you for the advice, we will have a look at the hotel website. We lived in South Africa for 20 years and loved the winelands there, hence the interest.
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Old May 27th, 2011, 07:54 AM
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>>Healdsburg on our last trip, it's one of those places that once you've seen it, well you've seen it. As a first time visit I'd look into Napa or Sonoma as a base because there's more to see and do
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Old May 27th, 2011, 11:36 PM
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Thank you Stu. We really want to look at booking accommodation now, so that's very helpful.
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Old May 27th, 2011, 11:51 PM
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We are thinking about spending around seven days in San Francisco, renting a car for the last couple days in order to venture out on day trips, with three more days for the winelands. Does that make sense?
Could we do Carmel as a day trip, or is an overnight visit preferable?
Thanks again
Lisa
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Old May 28th, 2011, 05:55 AM
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>>Does that make sense?>Could we do Carmel as a day trip, or is an overnight visit preferable?>>

You can do the wine country as a day-trip. Carmel/Monterey/Big Sur/Pt Lobos/Pacific Grove/etc is best as an overnight - perhaps even 2 nights. Not really a day-trip. IMO (traffic concerns, & lots of diverse stuff to do & see)

Stu Dudley
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Old May 28th, 2011, 06:07 AM
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Thanks Stu, that's interesting. Where would you stay along the Carmel/Monterey/Big Sur/Pt Lobos/Pacific Grove stretch? I understand Carmel can be fairly pricey?
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Old May 28th, 2011, 07:36 AM
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I would stay in Carmel - near Ocean Ave (there are a few hotels much farther away in Carmel). If you can't find anything in Carmel within your price rage, stay in Pacific Grove - as close to the bay/ocean as possible. I'm not a big fan of staying in Monterey near the Cannery (or elsewhere in Monterey).

The drive to Carmel without much traffic is about 2 1/4 hrs from the City/Noe Valley. Take 280 (access via Dolores/San Jose Ave from the Noe Valley).

To get from the Noe Valley to the Golden Gate Bridge & Wine country, take Diamond St north & cross Market St. Where Diamond dead-ends just past Market, turn left(west) on 17th St & take 17th till it dead-ends on Stanyan. Turn right(north) on Stanyan & past Golden Gate Park & then turn left (west) on Fulton. Take Fulton to Park Presido (big street) and turn right (north) on Park Presido & follow the traffic over the GG Bridge. There is some construction as you approach the Bridge - so pay attention.

To get back to the Noe Valley, follow the same route back, but from Park Presido, turn right at Cabrillo & then left at the next corner(14th) and then left again to get on Fulton. There is "no left turn" allowed from Park Presido on to Fulton. From 17th you will need to turn right on Eureka to cross Market, and when Eureka ends do a left & right to get to Diamond. About 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hrs (with minimal traffic) from the Noe Valley to Napa or Healdsburg.

In Sept, we will be in London for 3 weeks!! We are leaving for France in 2 weeks - that's why I am giving you this info now. If you need restaurant recs for the Noe Valley - let me know (along with how "adventuresome" you want to be in your food choices).

Stu Dudley
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Old May 28th, 2011, 07:51 AM
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Thanks Stu. Hope you have a wonderful time in London and France. We were in London for two months when we returned to the UK five years ago - I was born here, but lived in South Africa for 20 years - and we ran ourselves ragged trying to do and see everything.
We've only really been to Provence in France so far, but loved it. Fell victim to the volcano ash cloud and ended seeing more of the country than we expected - we had to drive to Lille to get the Eurostar back to England. Quite an advenure, but we did make the most of it - a few stops in Champagne country, including a Taittinger cellar tour. Heaven.
We'd love some Noe Valley restaurant recommendations, to get back to the subject, please. Probably midrange budget-wise. Not too adventurous. We like hot food, all Brits love a curry, but teapot husband is not overly fond of his veggies.
Thanks again
Lisa
P.S. Booking the flights now. How exciting!
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Old May 28th, 2011, 08:16 AM
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We'd like to try Mexican, if you have a recommendation?
Thanks
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Old May 28th, 2011, 08:50 AM
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Stu, you are a gem! Thanks for always posting such great information about your neck of the woods!
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Old May 28th, 2011, 10:00 AM
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Here are the three in the Noe Valley that we frequent most often.

- Incanto - www.incanto.biz Italian - but not the red sauce/veal type menu. It may be too adventuresome for you. The menu changes quite frequently so don't rely on their web site to see "yesterdays" menu. They post the menu outside of the buuilding, so walk there several days before to see what they are offering that week. Last time we were there I ordered shaved cured tuna heart over buckwheat pasta as an appetizer, & roast lamb neck as a main. Order a "wine flight" before dinner (white or red) to determine what wine you want to have for dinner - if you drink wine with dinner. Reserve several days in advance. On Church St & Duncan.

- Firefly - Calif Cuisine. www.fireflyrestaurant.com A 'gem" in a residential section of 24th St. near Douglass. Make sure you order the seafood potstickers. Note the fixed price menu - a real bargain. Reserve several days (a week?) in advance

- Pomelo - "world" food. www.pomelosf.com. We dine here more often than any other restaurant in the Bay Area. Minimalist decor, varied menu, and perhaps the best food value in San Francisco that is not an Asian restaurant (although many Asian influences on the menu). I almost always order an appetizer of the Cabo San Lucas - three wonderful fish (red snapper) tacos. Be careful of the hot jalapenos in the salsa - easy to avoid. For my main, I have the Havana - marinated skirt steak with avacado, plantain, beans, other stuff - wonderful. Once a month (mid-month) they offer a Paella on Fri, Sat, & Sunday. Best Paella in the Bay Area, IMO. Order a bottle of Capay Voigner. No reservations - but get there by 7 & you won't have any wait. On Church near 30th. There is a nice produce market across the street and our favorite coffee cafe is 2 doors south.

Other favorites of ours.

- Fattoush - middle eastern. www.fattoush.com Excellent value - minimalist decor. We've dined here many times - just last Sat in fact. Has some curries - but I think their lamb in Rice & aged Yoghurt is their best dish - it even says "most popular" on the menu. Church near Clipper. They take reservations, but you really don't need any. A couple of doors away from Lovejoys.

- Regent Thai - Thai Very popular. www.regentthaisf.com More curries. On Church & 29th. I think they take reservations, but a couple of times we wanted to eat there (without reservations) they were full.

- Swatdee - Thai. www.swatdeesf.com Another good Thai place. Curries. Don't need reservations. 24th St near Diamond

- Le Zinc - French. We go here for a carafe of wine & sit next to the front window & “people watch”. Good solid French food, but we spend 2 months in France most years so we’ve dined here less in the last 3 years than we did prior to that. 24th near Castro

Bacco – Italian – www.baccosf.com “standard” Italian – but better than most in North Beach (our “little Italy”). On Diamond off 24th st.

Fresca – Peruvian. www.frescasf.com One of 3 locations in SF. On 24th st near Noe and across the street from Whole Foods grocery. Has an active “Bar Scene” & a little noisier than the others.

Erics – Chinese – on Church & 27th Very popular & nice décor in a Victorian building. They tend to rush dinner a bit - so perhaps only order 1 course at a time & when you are close to finishing it, order another. Excellent value for lunch. Large windows overlooking Church St.

Another very popular place that we are kind of “neutral” about.

- La Cicca – Sardinian. www.lacaccia.com This place is quite popular, and rated high in the Zagot guide. We thought it was OK – but with the tables so close together & with all the noise – we have not returned. On 30th at Church.

Breakfast and Lunch

- Savor Our favorite – by far. Nice outside dining in back. I usually order the Cote d’Azur – eggs benedict with smoked salmon, sautéed spinach, sautéed red onions, and roast potatoes. Very crowded on weekends. 24th St near Sanchez & a couple of doors away from Fresca.

Tea

- Lovejoys – perhaps the most popular tea room in SF www.lovejoystearoom.com Corner of Church & Clipper. You may need reservations for “high tea”.

There are not any Mexican restaurants in the Noe Valley that we frequent. However, the Noe Valley is next to the Mission, where there are many Mexican places. I like Mamacita on Chestnut in the Marina – but that is quite far away and Mamacita is VERY noisy.

All the Asian places and Pomelo do "carry-outs".

Stu Dudley

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