Looking forward to this, Mel

Took us two hours to get through immigration in San Francisco, we were exhausted by the time we got through. Still preferable to LAX though.

Being upgraded to first class was a good result having to wait around for eight hours.

Yeah well, it was only a 2.5 hour flight from SFO to COS and it was a tiny plane, but hey, I'll take what I can get!

I hope the immigration goons treated you well nelsonian. I'm a bit embarassed at how poorly our immigration folks treat visitors to the US.

Went to the Springs about 4 years ago and really liked it. Looking forward to the rest of your report!

I'm looking forward to your report.

Lee Ann

Colorado is as dry as a bone on a good day, but as anyone familiar with the state knows, the moisture situation (or lack thereof) has become downright dire. Local farmers are in trouble, trees are dying, rivers and creeks have dried up, ski resorts are very nervous…and fires have ravaged the state.

With the exception of a handful of cold mornings, the weather during my stay has been bizarrely warm, much too warm for November and December. And while I’ve selfishly enjoyed the unusually warm days, long morning walks amongst the fearless suburban deer, and not having to test my rusty winter driving skills, Colorado desperately needs rain and snow, and soon.

So how have I spent my time in the beautiful, but seriously thirsty state of Colorado?

I’ve explored.

I’ve walked many miles in many neighborhoods, re-visiting the familiar and discovering the new.

One such neighborhood was Mountain Shadows, the foothills suburb devastated by this past summer’s Waldo Canyon Fire which consumed 346 homes. Nearby Flying W Ranch, of which I have fond childhood memories, is now just that, a memory, it too, completely destroyed by the fire. Sobering indeed, the bizarre path of the fire weirdly evident, some homes completely gone, yet homes directly next door untouched.

But I was amazed at the progress; lots have been cleared and new construction is underway.

I’m incredibly proud of the way my hometown pulled together in this time of need. The stories I’ve heard have been heartwarming and restore my faith in mankind.

But on to happier topics…

I enjoyed my first US of A based Thanksgiving in years and demolished some of the best stuffing I’ve ever had. I visited family and friends, catching up on the lives (and drama) of loved ones.

And I've explored some more.

I finally made it up to the Wild Animal Sanctuary, which I’d learned about from a poster here on Fodor’s (I’ve searched for a name so I could offer my thanks, but unfortunately, I came up empty, sorry mate). The sanctuary is about a 90 minute drive north east of Colorado Springs (30 miles northeast of Denver) and well worth a visit.

http://www.wildanimalsanctuary.org/

I spent two nights in Buena Vista, my new favorite Colorado town, where my mother and I stayed at the lovely Vista Inn.

We walked the trail to Agnes Vaille Falls and hiked a small portion of the Colorado Trail, which we accessed from Chalk Creek Canyon. Not too shabby for a 76 year old (good on ya Mom!). Our hikes were followed by some lovely Mexican food (two thumbs up for both Casa del Sol and El Paraiso), and long soaks in the hotel’s hot tub.

On the drive to/from Buena Vista, we stopped at Wilkerson Pass to ogle those glorious views of the Collegiate Peaks, stretch our legs and explore the one mile hiking trail along the valley floor.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilkerson_Pass

Although the trees are naturally barren this time of year, there’s no denying the sad black sticks that have replaced the forest along Highway 24, yet more evidence of the Waldo Canyon fire.

Woodland Park made the ideal lunch stop (good sandwiches and friendly down home service at Joanie’s), and a poke through a log furniture store was interesting, to say the least.

To be continued…

Mel, you are a wonderful writer & so aptly describe the state of things in Colorado. Its horrible that this time of year firefighters are battling a fire in Estes Park. Forecast is perhaps for a little snow in Denver on Saturday night, we'll see.

Welcome Home! I am enjoying reading about my own state in your report and look forward to more.

Thank you Betsy and livetoroam. I'm currently in the San Francisco airport awaiting my second, third and fourth flights back to Perth (gonna be a long day!) I couldn't help but be jealous of CA as we flew over the snow covered mountains, and green rolling hills (thanks to all the recent rain no doubt.

Most significant about Colorado these days is the recent striking down of marijuana laws (still subject to federal over-ride).

The best rumor in the air is that the name Mile High Stadium will rise again!

It'll always be Mile High to us natives. Somehow sports Authority Stadium at Mile High just doesn't have the same ring to it.

I'm back in Perth now and will try to finish up this report in the next day or two.

Another day found my mother and I driving I-25 south past Pueblo, and west on Highway 165 via Colorado City and Rye to Bishop Castle, for a big fat slice of Colorado weirdness, which mere words cannot adequately describe.

http://www.bishopcastle.org/

http://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/2047

Glutton for punishment that I am, I climbed the interior staircase to the top of the highest tower, but reckoned that was far enough for my unreliable knees. The views were fabulous, but the descent turned my knuckles white. A miniature version of my mother, patiently waiting on a bench a very long way below me, could be seen through the gaping holes between the rail-less iron stairwell and the exterior walls. Not a fan of heights, Mom probably would have passed out had she chosen that moment to look up.

Another morning was spent taking a tour of McCallister House in downtown Colorado Springs, for a taste of local history in a place I’ve probably driven past a thousand times, but never heard of. It was an enjoyable and informative tour, which I highly recommend.

http://mcallisterhouse.org/

One weekend I hosted a girlfriend from Denver for a sleepover at my accommodation. We drove up Ute Pass (west Highway 24) to explore another place I’d driven past many times, The Wines of Colorado.

http://www.winesofcolorado.com/

We both enjoyed our creek side lunch, and the smells emanating from the smokehouse (?) were tantalizing, but I wasn’t impressed with the wine tasting set-up, or the wine for that matter (granted, I didn’t taste all 50 of them …). I’m the first to admit that I’m a bit of a wine snob. I’ve long been spoiled by the drops of New Zealand and Australia, and I live at the doorstep of three wine regions. I’ll also admit that I’m new to Colorado wine and that much more tasting is in order.

That afternoon was spent walking the streets of Old Colorado City, doing our wee bit to support Small Business Saturday.

Several trips were made to the Garden of the Gods Trading Post, a place I’d not visited in years and couldn’t believe the size of. The Native American jewelry and various and sundry souvenirs (some locally made, some not) is quite amazing. Originally built in the early 1920’s, the trading post has expanded six times, and the diminutive exterior belies the enormous shopping experience within.

http://www.gardenofthegodstradingpost.com/

Two visits were made to the Garden of the God’s Visitor Center and three drives were made through the park (one by accident…when exiting the Trading Post, don’t turn right unless you want to meander through the one way roads of the park).

To be continued…

Digging your report and reminds moi of my time in C. Springs (rather - at the AF Academy)and later in Denver - and then our many return visits.

Looking forward to reading more, and glad you are safely way back in Perth, the site of the America's Cup back in the 80's was it? Friends of mine loved it.

That would have been the summer of 1986-87 Tomsd.

Trying to finish up, but jetlag and the heat have slowed me down somewhat.

t

Food glorious food…

While the food in Australia is generally very good, I wouldn’t be human if I didn’t miss a few culinary delights from home. It varies from year to year, trip to trip, but my cravings usually involve American bacon and just about anything Mexican. This year, however, was all about the margaritas.

While the lowly margarita might seem ordinary and mundane to the average American, they’re as rare as hen’s teeth in the antipodes. Perhaps it’s due to the cost of limes ($29.99 a kilo last time I had the nerve to check) or an apparent shortage of decent tequila (heck, the prices in Australia might lead one to believe there’s a shortage of everything, but that’s another story for another day). Whatever the reason, a restaurant or bar prepared margarita, when you can find one, will set a person back about $18 in Perth, so I stopped looking.

Had I not been too knackered to swallow, I’d have sought out that much missed limey elixir of the gods the minute my feet touched the ground in Colorado. Although somewhat delayed, I managed to satisfy my craving multiple times throughout my stay with several margarita runs to Salsa Brava and Sonterra Grill.

http://www.rockymtnrg.com/salsabrava

And a visit to Colorado wouldn’t be complete without at least one meal at the Brewery Bar in Denver, home to my all-time favorite chile rellenos covered in my all-time favorite hot green chile. Washed down with an icy margarita of course. Be still my heart.

http://www.brewerybar3.com/

And…I went to Casa Bonita. Yes, the ‘entertainment destination’ slash Mexican restaurant complete with cliff divers, 30’ waterfall and notoriously mediocre food.

A friend of my sister-in-law (a visiting Bostonian who lives and works on Kwajalein) had expressed his burning desire to visit Casa Bonita ever since he’d seen a particular episode of South Park. His time was limited, I was available, willing, and intrigued, so I ferried him up to Lakewood.

Casa Bonita was a big deal back in the old days when I was in high school. I didn’t even know it was still in business (37 years!). I was expecting a dull afternoon made worse by lousy food, but I surprised myself by having a really good time (sans margaritas no less). It was a fun blast from my past, and yeah, the food is still mediocre.

http://www.casabonitadenver.com/

But good eats were had and cravings were satisfied at Over Easy, the new sister restaurant of Salsa Brava and Sonterra Grill (breakfast and lunch place, fabulous biscuits and gravy). And I just this minute discovered they have breakfast margaritas, how did I miss that?

http://www.visitcos.com/node/159/111/Over%20Easy

I had two excellent lunches at another of my old haunts, Marigold Bakery. Their sandwiches never disappoint and their double chocolate mousse cake will forever be a personal chocolate orgy favorite.

http://www.marigoldcoloradosprings.com/

Good pizzas were enjoyed Il Vincino, which now has two Colorado Springs locations:

http://ilvicino.com/coloradosprings/

Ever the chocoholic, I made a complete nuisance of myself with my numerous trips to See’s Candies. There was a time I had to drive to Denver for my chocolate fix, but no more. See’s is quite handy (too handy) with its north Colorado Springs retail shop.

My stay was topped off with Brule’s Red Nativity, a Native American holiday music and dance extravaganza held annually at the Pikes Peak Center. For the first time in years my visit coincided with their one and only Christmas performance, so I felt pretty lucky. It was a wonderful show; vibrant, energetic and uplifting. In the end, the parking woes (downtown Colorado Springs simultaneously held a holiday parade, worsening an already bad parking situation) were worth the effort.

It was a great trip. Fantastic weather and scenery, no shortage of things to see and do, good company and food; what more could a person want?

The return trip to Perth had its issues though.

Snow and wind delayed our landing in Seoul, then once on the ground, we were delayed a further five hours due to the mysterious need to replace four tires on the plane, congestion at the airport, torrential rain and de-icing. My hopes of a few hours of lying prone were dashed, as I made it to Singapore with just enough time for a quick shower, a poke around duty free and a snack…no nap in the Transit Hotel for me. Then it was back onto yet another plane for the last leg. I was a complete zombie for a few days, but I'm home, safe and sound.

Glad you are home safe and sound. Golly - what an odyssey. Never flown that far before with such "challenges".

Geesh - some things one takes for granted should really be appreciated. We can get premium Tequila here in San Diego - (sometimes a "fifth" for under $15) - and while I use a prepared mix (Jose Quervo) much of the time - adding triple sec, etc - the fresh limes are usually also pretty reasonable, plus a neighbor has a tree and offers us a few from time to time.

And we have beaucoup choices for Mexican food - so many that we seek out the best deals.

And next time in the Springs - check out one of my classmate's places - Jack Quinns Pub. I am sure he/they can make a Margarita to your satisfaction. http://www.jackquinnspub.com/

Thanks Tomsd. I saw Jack Quinn's, maybe next time.

I bought a few limes while I was in CO just because I could!

Just this weekend I planted a lime tree in my backyard. Hopefully it will produce some fruit before we leave Australia for good in a few years.

Mel, you recommended the Crags Trail in one of your previous trip reports and I finally hiked it a few months ago. Very enjoyable! On the way back to Denver we passed what I thought was a gas station but the smell of BBQ and being hungry made us turn around for further investigation. Have you ever tried Rudy's BBQ in Colorado Springs? It wasn't the best I've eaten, but it was fine. I had never heard of it before & I was surprised how big of a place it was. The moment we stepped inside though I felt like I was in a different state. It was such a weird feeling.

I don't know how you survive without margaritas! They are a regular part of my diet.

Tom, I might give Jack Quinn's a try too when I'm in the area.

Hi wtm003 -

I'm glad you liked Crags, we sure did. Beautiful spot.

I haven't tried Rudy's, but I saw (and smelled) it...off Cimarron as you head up Ute Pass? Big red building?

I still mourn the demise of County Line BBQ and Howard's pit barbecue, a Colorado Springs institution.

Yes, that is it. I could not remember the street name. It was packed the day we dropped in, so it must be a popular stop.

Hi Melnq8. Happy 2013! I've just been catching up with some of the US posts, and recognized your CO T/R. So glad you were able to enjoy some time in your hometown. DH & I love CO, have spent considerable time all over the years in the mountainous areas, and can follow your descriptions very well. We have great pix of the many hikes we've done in CO. So sad about the destruction left from the fires!!!

We've also been following the extreme heat you've had in Perth. Hope your weather soon returns to "normal".

A lot of the great memories we have of our trip to the S.I. of NZ this past year are due to your great info. Thanks again!

You're very welcome tomarkot.

We've gotten a small reprieve from the heat in Perth today, but it's going to hot up again this weekend. Ugh.

I lost track of this. Next time you have to come down here - County Line BBQ, Rudy's plus quite a selection of locals spots.

I didn't realize Il Vicino is up there now; great brew and food too. Also, Dion's in CS should be tried, it is our hometown pride and joy for non thin crust pizza.

Where's down there Deb, Durango?

Forget it, dumb question, New Mexico of course!