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NOLA for the First Time: Seasoned Travellers Want Some Input

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NOLA for the First Time: Seasoned Travellers Want Some Input

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Old Feb 3rd, 2012, 06:10 PM
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NOLA for the First Time: Seasoned Travellers Want Some Input

Fodor's Friends,

Best Friend and I are heading to New Orleans for our annual spring break trip. (We had wanted desperately to make Carnival in Venice this year, but as our budgets are still terribly low, we've opted for something closer.) We've never been to NOLA and we're both really excited, but we're also bumbling idiots trying to plan this week of ours at the last minute. So, we're relying on our faithful Fodor community to steer us in the right direction, as you've never steered us wrong. Here's the run down on the trip and what sorts of suggestions we're looking for:

Dates: 7-13 April
Staying at: Pelham Hotel on Common St.
Definite must dos: Preservation Hall, Cafe du Monde, Garden District walking tour

What we're looking for:
1. Restaurant recommendations (especially seafood, Cajun, and/or local)
2. Absolute MUST dos (I love Dixieland jazz, tarot cards, desserts and coffee; she loves French anything, vampires and witch lore [she's a historian] and clothing)

We will possibly rent a car for one or two days, but no more, as we're having an abbreviated trip this time.

As always, merci beaucoup!
Lazuliangel
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Old Feb 3rd, 2012, 06:18 PM
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The last day of Mardi Gras is Tuesday February 21.
http://www.mardigrasneworleans.com/mardi_gras_2012.html
There are plenty of things to do in New Orleans during lent but don't expect any parades.
Eat a begniet at Cafe du Monde.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2012, 06:44 PM
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As touristy as it is, Brennan's is still an excellent restaurant choice. Had lunch at the Gumbo Shop on St. Charles and loved it.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2012, 08:42 PM
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Cafe du Monde and Brennan's, both on the list now!
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 12:42 AM
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My 18 y/o daughter and I went to NOLA for her spring break last year (first time for us) and absolutely loved the French Quarter Culinary History and Tasting Tour.
http://www.zerve.com/Culinary/Tour1030

We had a delightful tour guide, saw some notable landmarks, attended a cooking demonstration where we learned the secrets on making a roux, sampled some very tasty local specialties such as seafood gumbo, red beans and rice, muffulettas, pralines, and the famous Shrimp Arnaud. Some of the restaurants we visited on the tour: Brennan's, Tujagues, Arnaud's. We definitely enjoyed the tour!
                                                                                                                                                                               
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 02:52 AM
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kpauls.com melt in your mouth blackened redfish best in the world Camelia Grille best cheese omlettes in the world at
the levee after street cr corner of St Charles and Carrolton.Cafe Du Monde ibgnets Mothers Central Market for Mufalettas. VoodDoo tour Plantations Swamp Tour River cruise zoo aquarium. Pete Fountains at the Hilton best jazz.

neworleansonline.com
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 02:57 AM
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oops forgot www.mulates.com #1 for cajun food.
Commanders Palace where Emeril learned it all a bit of a budget buster but worth for me especially for lunch good value.
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 05:32 AM
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Central Grocery for mufaletta. Get a poboy around the corner. KPaul's is wonderful. I like Emeril's restaurants. Carousel Bar at the Hotel Monteleone for the best old school drinks: Sazerac, Lemon Drop, etc. Have a Hurricane somewhere on Bourbon Street.

You hoping to visit a few plantations? Oak Alley for the atmosphere and Laura for the 'real deal' are popular choices.

Be aware of your surroundings in New Orleans; things go from great to not so great from street to street. This edginess is part of what makes NOLA so appealing to many. Someone here might be able to give you a geographical area that encompasses the typical tourist experience. Have a great time!
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 05:43 AM
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Hi lazuliangel,

I recommend to not be so planned that you can't just sit and savour the random goings-on and beauty at Jackson Square & in the French Quarter. Highlights for me were taking the trolley and the impromptu exploring of the Garden District, French Quarter and Faubourg Marigny. I second Gumbo Shop and I also really liked Adolfo's in the Faubourg Marigny.

Best wishes, Daniel
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 07:51 AM
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Daniel, which trolley to take to the Garden District? Is there someplace special to get off or is it just As well to ride to view the homes and then go back to the FQ?
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 08:53 AM
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Tour of one (or both) St. Louis or Lafayette cemetery. I've been to NO many times and the cemeteries are still always fascinating. There are many tour groups offering all kinds of cemetery tours and playing up the idea of ghosts, etc. but my preference would be one of the tours offered by Save Our Cemeteries: http://www.saveourcemeteries.org/ -- However I don't think they offer both the St. Louis and Lafayette tours on the same day; there are plenty of other tour companies that do.
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 10:28 AM
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Hi CD,

It's the St. Charles streetcar that I took; it was out of commission when I went the year after Katrina but it seems to be operational again according the the NORTA website.

My perspective may be a bit different as I've always stayed in the Lower Garden District and not the French Quarter. I loved just strolling around the Lower Garden District (on the side of St. Charles closer to the Mississippi River) and toward the "Upper" Garden District. I personally find that more enjoyable that just passing by on a trolley, so as to give more time for admiration of gardens and architectural detail. A number of places one could get off would be near Lafayette Cemetery, Audobon Park (the end of the line), or near the "antiques area" of Magazine Street.

Best wishes, Daniel
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 11:21 AM
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Thanks Daniel, we will be there next month and have never been to the Garden District.
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 12:13 PM
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Daniel, that's exactly what we're thinking. Normally, we're a plan-to-the-hilt pair, trying to extract absolutely every bit of activity from every second of the holiday possible (you should've seen us in Hawai'i ... we should've had a stopwatch!). This time around, we're content to just stroll leisurely and let the experiences come to us, though we want to have just a few things in place. We're staying halfway between the GD and the FQ, so we're well placed for walking anywhere. I'd like to take one of the trolleys, too, so your suggestion is a good one.

Bowsprit, thanks for the tips on mufaletta. I'd forgotten about that, even though we'd discussed it. I spent a long time in Philadelphia and we've gone there many times together for shopping, visiting, touring, etc., so we're used to that good street/bad street juxtaposition. Glad for the heads up, though, because you can all too easily stray in a way you wouldn't really want to. We're forewarned.

We've been thinking about a plantation tour. How far away is Oak Alley, for example? Is it worth renting a car? We'd thought, too, about driving I 10 E through to Mississippi and the area hit by Katrina. Is that a reasonable day trip?
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 01:09 PM
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We just got back from NOLA last night. We had good dinners at Mulate's, Emeril's and Red Fish Grill. Cafe du Monde is a must for the beignets, but don't bother with the coffee at all. We tried it twice and both times threw it away after a sip or two. We had a great lunch at a hole in the wall place called Mojo's. I think it is actually Mojo's Bistro, but anyway, it was very good. We had paninis and salads, FWIW. Very small place, but a few tables outside as well.

I agree to keep an eye on your surroundings. Things change quickly, so just be alert. My friend and I didn't have any problems, but a couple times we changed course as an area became less than desirable.
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Def. worth renting a car to visit the plantations. If you want to see the devastation left behind by that bi*ch Katrina, arrange for a tour through your hotel or through a cab driver; no need to leave NOLA to see that! (although you'll leave the Garden District and the French Quarter to see the remains of that day)
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Old Feb 5th, 2012, 01:34 PM
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Be sure to visit the music clubs in Marigny on Frenchmen Street.

FRENCHMEN STREET………..




DBA @ 618 Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, LA 504 = 942 – 3731.





http://dbabars.com/dbano/




Spotted Cat @ 623 Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, LA 504 – 943 – 3887.




http://www.spottedcatmusicclub.com/




Blue Nile @ 532 Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, LA 504 – 948 – 2583.




http://www.bluenilelive.com/




Apple Barrel Bar @ 609 Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, LA 504 – 949 – 9399.




Three Muses @ 536 Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, LA 504 – 298 – 8746.


http://www.thethreemuses.com/


Sweet Lorraine's Jazz Club @ 1931 Saint Claude Ave., New Orleans, LA. 504 - 945 - 9654.


www.sweetlorrainesjazzclub.com/home.htm


Royal Street Inn and R Bar @ 1431 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA 504 - 948 - 7499.


http://royalstreetinn.com/


Snugg Harbor Jazz Bistro @ 626 Frenchmen St., New Orleans, LA. 504 - 949 - 0696.


http://www.snugjazz.com/site/


Maison @ 508 Frenchmen Street, New Orleans, LA 504 – 371 – 5543.




http://www.maisonfrenchmen.com/
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Old Feb 5th, 2012, 03:53 PM
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Littleman: Do you know anything about Lil Dizzy's? I just saw it featured on the Food Network and I wondered about it.
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Old Feb 5th, 2012, 05:58 PM
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Local here. First off, you're not halfway between the FQ and Garden District. You're about a block from the FQ and 25 blocks from the Garden District. Doesn't matter you can take the streetcar to the GD, no problem. The streetcar driver will tell you where to get off, but go farther up St. Charles past the GD and up to Carrollton Ave. Go eat at the Camellia Grill for late breakfast. Locals and tourists go there and the ride is beautiful.

Definitely go to Frenchmen St. for music. People of all ages go. Take a cab. Don't walk it.

Other food: New Orleans is NOT Cajun. Cajun food is country food. Cajuns don't live in New Orleans, creoles do. We have Creole food. You may try Drago's for seafood. If you want something more upscale for seafood, GW Fins is excellent and in the Quarter. For desserts, do as the locals do and go to Sucre on Magazine St. Spend time on Magazine St. anyway. Lots of shops and antique stores and art galleries. It's where New Orleanians eat and shop and drink. Restaurants on Magazine include Lilette (Bouligny Bar next door) and La Petite Grocery. For relatively inexpensive French bistro go to Crepe Nanou Uptown.

Definitely go to Cafe du Monde for coffee and beignets. Hint: just grab a table don't wait to be seated. You might try Mr. B's also. More touristy but the food is good and close to where you are staying.

One more thing: if you're there on a Wednesday there are free concerts at Lafayette Square about 5 blocks from your hotel at 5pm with all local musicians. Great venue.

As far as tours, stick with the National Park Service tours of the Quarter and Garden District. Not sure I'd trust the others and I think those tours are free.

Have fun!
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Old Feb 5th, 2012, 06:15 PM
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This is all great advice. BTW, there is an Easter parade on April 8th while you are there. Anyone have advice about the Algiers Ferry and whether a nice ride to take with kids?
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