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Old May 21st, 2013, 12:21 AM
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Need a bit of help planning a 3 week trip to the US

Hello fellow travelers!

We are two women from Denmark, 33 and 36 years old, who are planning a trip to the US, but we could use a bit of help with some of the details.

A bit about us, and our travel preferences:
We're both outgoing, relaxed, love nature and people equally, appreciate great museums and the knowledge they dispense, but prefer to spend our travel time either in the company of Nature, or with good people. We are both foodies, and love encountering new tastes and local cuisines.
My friend has never been to the US before, I have been several times and am in love with the beauty, the diversity and the... sense of space, is the best way I can put it. The highlights of my previous trips include swimming with the gentle, playful manatees in the hot springs of Crystal River, Florida, voluntary work in New Orleans post Hurricane Katrina, white water rafting in Grand Teton National Park, eating the best barbecue I have *ever* had at The Salty Lick outside Austin, Texas, and watching the ebb and flow of diversity while walking the streets of beautiful San Fransisco.

Basic trip data:
How long: 21 days/3 weeks, +/- 1-2 days max (work restrictions)
When: either July or sometime in the period mid-august to late September (work restrictions again)

Where:
- We fly to New York City, where we spend 4 days. I have family in Manhattan and know the city fairly well, so we should be well set up here .
- We (plan) to fly to Denver from NYC, and drive through Colorado, Arizona, Nevada and California from here, but this is not set in stone. This is the bulk of the trip, with 14-15 days spent on this stretch.
- We fly home from Los Angeles. I studied there as exchange student during my MSc (and have family in OC), so we should be well set here too. Probably won't spend more than a couple days in the area.

Questions:

- While in Denver (or NYC), we would love to experience a 'US sports night', and attend a baseball match (or football, but don’t think the season has started in late August?). When do the (regular) seasons start, what should we expect a decent ticket to cost, and where on the field should two 'sports rookies' sit to enjoy the game and atmosphere as much as possible?

- We're both decent drivers, but since Copenhagen transport happens primarily by bike, nothing even close to US experienced drivers. Additionally we have very little mountain driving experience. What sort of car should we aim for, should we get 4 wheel drive? Is it safe for 2 rookies to drive to fx the summit of Mount Evans?

- How long does it take, including stops and actually enjoying the trip, to drive through Rocky mountain National Park (excluding additional hikes)? Is it safe for inexperienced drivers to go on any other roads in August/September, and if so, any that can be recommended? As for hikes, which are the best ½-1 day hikes?

- We are both fascinated by ghost towns and the incredible stories they hide, but I get the feeling that any worth visiting/not tourist traps require better driving skills than we possess, to get seriously off the beaten track. Is this correct, or are there some safely accessible and worth the time either in Colorado or Arizona (or Nevada)?

- We plan to go through Rock Mountain National Park and down the million dollar highway to Durango, but from here we’re unsure where to go (though in the general direction of Grand Canyon/Las Vegas). Is there something fantastic to experience in northern New Mexico, or would you recommend to move quicker towards Grand Canyon and instead spend the time in Bryce/Zion NPs?

- Last time I was in Las Vegas, I was a bit disappointed, but I think it might have been because I didn’t know where to go. I got caught in the ‘family-friendly’ part of the strip, which had nothing to do with the Vegas of yonder (or perhaps ‘the vegas of my mind’ is a better description). We (well, me primarily) would really love to try to play some low stakes poker (as horrible as it sounds, preferably without shrieking kids around), and see the more… adult? Side of Las Vegas. Any suggestions on fx good bars, good casinos, good places to go? It’s not that we’re crazy party people, but for one night it would be fun to put on the dancing shoes, order too expensive cocktails and lose a few bucks playing poker

- In general, for the entire trip: one of the things that for us make a trip truly memorable are the unique people, quirky diners and odd little gems you find here and there. Do any of you have any strange B&Bs or odd shops, experiences or restaurants that you recommend in any of the areas we go through?

Thanks so much for reading all this and any advice you can give – apologies for the length!

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Old May 21st, 2013, 03:03 AM
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I would go in September over July(would be to hot).

I don't really like Las Vegas myself. One day there is always enough for me.

You won't encounter snow(at least shouldn't be that much) in September, so just about any vehicle would be fine.

While in Dunrango, you should spend at least one full day at Mesa Verde National Park. I also really like www.soaringcolorado.com. It is expensive, but is really enjoyable.


The big thing to eat in New Mexico is Green Chiles.

I don't really think you'll have enough time to do much in California. I think just concentrate on the other places you mention.

You might be better off watching a College game over a Professional football game. I like them better.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 03:21 AM
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Ooh, the zipline looks like great fun, thanks for the suggestion! Definitely adding that and Mesa Verde to the agenda .
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Old May 21st, 2013, 03:40 AM
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Get a flight into Denver as early as you can and head up to RMNP that first day in the west. Do try for lodging in Mesa Verde at Far View lodge right now. If they say they are full, call and keep calling as people make reservations way in advance and then cancel as time gets close.

When you leave Mesa Verde, head for Moab, UT for a visit to Arches and Canyonlands NP, It will be warm there, but they are so worth a visit and places to rent bikes for great bicycling in the parks. From there you could head down to Monument Valley to Page to south rim of Grand Canyon to Vegas, or to north rim of Grand Canyon to Bryce NP to Zion NP to Vegas. If you want to see what some of these places look like, you can look at my pictures at www.flickr.com/photos/emalloy2009/sets in some of the southwest sets.

From Vegas, head to Yosemite through Tioga Pass then to Monterey, CA and down the coast to LA.

Try one of the mapping sites like mapsgoogle or mapquest and use the add a destination feature to put in possible places to stop along the way. If you firm up a plan we can give you some suggestions on lodging along the way.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 03:48 AM
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Another itinerary would be : Denver-Rocky m.nat.P.-Monument valley-then either G.Canyon or via Page and lake powell visit zion and Bryce can. (both very wonderful and divers)-Las Vegas(if you must)-Death valley-Mono lake-Tioga pass-Yosemite(one of the great parks)-S.Francisco-Monterrey-Carmel-Santa Barbara-S.monica-L.A.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 03:51 AM
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Beautiful photos emalloy, many thanks for the link!

I'll be sure to call Fair View lodge right away, thanks for the tip!

So you would suggest skipping Denver altogether (we can catch a baseball game in NYC I imagine), as well as Mount Evans, and go straight to Estes Park?
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Old May 21st, 2013, 03:56 AM
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@tovarich Las Vegas is mostly for the contrast and a little 'plastic fun' in an otherwise very wholesome journey . I also have this idea that driving down from the mountains, if arriving fairly late, the city must look quite spectacular (and out of place) in the desert?

We're only staying one night though, and I definitely see why Yosemite would be well worth prioritizing. How many days are necessary to get a feel for Yosemite though? We were planning on doing shorter day hikes in the Rockies and along the rim of Grand Canyon, but maybe elsewhere would be better?
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Old May 21st, 2013, 04:19 AM
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Your trip sounds fabulous!

You should be okay driving through Rocky Mountain National Park. We are usually there in late August to mid-September. Although weather in the mountains is unpredictable and if there is snow on Trail Ridge Road (the road that connects the east and west sides of the park), it could be closed. I would typically only worry about this past mid-September.

There are lots of incredible hikes to choose from in the park, both half day and full day hikes. One of the best short lake hikes is to Emerald Lake:

http://www.rockymountainhikingtrails...erald-lake.htm

For some spectacular all-day hikes, I would recommend Sky Pond, Chasm Lake, and Bluebird Lake.
http://www.rockymountainhikingtrails.com/sky-pond.htm

http://www.rockymountainhikingtrails.com/chasm-lake.htm

http://www.rockymountainhikingtrails...ebird-lake.htm

Along the drive across Trail Ridge Road, be sure to stop at the Tundra Communities Trail to check out some unique rock formations called "mushroom rocks".
http://www.rockymountainhikingtrails...ties-trail.htm

We visited both Bryce and Zion last summer. Both are beautiful, unique parks, but we felt that Bryce could easily be done in one day - including the most popular trail, the Queens/Navajo Combination Loop. Zion has two spectacular trails, Canyon Overlook Trail - about one mile with great views and Observation Point - I think about 8 miles.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 04:33 AM
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Catching a game in NY would be my choice. I have used www.stubhub.com to get tickets last minute. They are a legitimate reseller of tickets you can sometimes get them printed on line.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 04:40 AM
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Oh, and I'm not a city vacationer, so I would skip Denver and in Vegas, if you must, look for lodging on the strip between Mandalay Bay and a mile north of it to be in the midst of the glitz.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 05:30 AM
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Quick update:

Based on your advice (thank you!) we've settled on mid-august to mid-september, a total of 23 days (21 days in the US, so 23 incl. travel to and from the US).

Our Denver ticket says we land at 10 am, so we should have plenty time to get to RMNP, though we are still debating Mount Evans (highest paved road in the world, what looks like gorgeous mountain lakes, breathtaking views etc.).

Agenda looks like this so far:

New York (3 days excl arrival date): Baseball Game, Broadway Play, Hudson River, Statue of Liberty, Central Park, Ground Zero, just strolling through one of the greatest cities in the world

Denver (land 10 am) - Estes Park (2 nights incl arrival): 1-day hike in RMNP second day

Estes Park - Grand Lake: Drive through RMNP (1 night spent near Grand Lake, haven't found accommodation yet)

Durango: 2 nights incl arrival (late arrival - long drive from Grand lake). Soaring Colorado second day (ziplining + train ride up through San Juan Mts)

Mesa Verde: 2 nights incl arrival - hopefully at Fairview Lodge.

Monument Valley, arrival in Moab at night: Hopefully this can be done with time enough to enjoy monument valley? Or would we need an additional day?

Moab: 2 nights, incl. arrival.

In between Moab nights: 1 night under the stars, on a 2-day white water rafting trip on the Colorado River through Canyonlands National Park, Cataract Canyon. Need to find accommodation near Moab.

From Moab: Not sure of the best order, but perhaps take the I-70 to Bryce Canyon, the north rim of Grand Canyon and Zion. We're thinking of dropping Zion though, to save time. Would that be a mistake? We would like to hike in the area at least a ½ day walk in either NP, so we would probably need 3 days, incl arrival day (which would be late, so in reality 2 days). Need to find accommodation in the area.

From what I can tell, we should have 5 days left (without the day we're leaving) from here, which isn't a whole lot.

From Bryce/Grand Canyon, we would go to Las Vegas, arriving as darkness falls. 2 nights in Las Vegas, incl. arrival.

From Las Vegas, ideally we would go through Death Valley, up to Yosemite, where we would spend the night Just outside.

Next day, spend the day in Yosemite, and drive to or near Monterrey to sleep.

The final day before going home would then be spent on highway 1, driving along the coast and skip LA completely, go straight to a hotel near the airport and fly back home.

Thing is, the last week seems incredibly hurried. It seems like we need another week to have time to enjoy it all? I really don't want to skip the white water trip on the Colorado River, but we do need to limit ourselves... somehow.

Eck, any suggestions?
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Old May 21st, 2013, 05:37 AM
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@wave - thanks so much for the links, they're a great help! So much to choose from! I wish I could take 2 months off work...

@emalloy - perfect, thanks for the link, this is exactly what I've been looking for.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 05:56 AM
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You've received great information about RMNP, but to answer these questions:

How long does it take, including stops and actually enjoying the trip, to drive through Rocky mountain National Park (excluding additional hikes)?
Allow at least 3-4 hours, possibly more depending on how many stops you wind up making when you see elk, moose or something else unexpected. Definitely stop at the Rock Cut tundra trail mentioned by wave725.

Is it safe for inexperienced drivers to go on any other roads in August/September, and if so, any that can be recommended?
All the roads in RMNP are safe for inexperienced drivers, IMHO.

As for hikes, which are the best ½-1 day hikes?
Agree with wave725 that Emerald Lake makes a for great, albeit crowded, 1/2 day hike.

Of the full day hikes wave mentioned I'd vote for Sky Pond, it has more consistently varied scenic beauty the entire way, as opposed to a lot of time spent in trees heading to Bluebird Lake. Chasm Lake is unquestionably spectacular, but I think overall you get more interest on the way to Sky Pond.

Note the Bear Lake road project will affect you: get up there early.
http://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisi...nstruction.htm

Have a great trip!
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Old May 21st, 2013, 06:31 AM
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Yosemite is my favorite National Park. I've only been there in June, when the waterfalls are really going. I'm sure it is still good in September, but I'm not sure I would want to go without the waterfalls. Just my opinion.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 07:27 AM
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You have a wonderful trip planned. If it were me, however, I'd probably skip Yosemite for this trip. It's a long drive from Vegas to Yosemite through Death Valley. We just did the same drive last summer so it's still fresh in my mind. It was an all-day drive and that was without any stops at all in Death Valley. Yosemite is out of the way and, as you said, makes your last week a bit hurried. Plus as spirobulldog said the waterfalls won't be running.

I also want to add my voice to be sure to visit Mesa Verde. Definitely stay at Far View Lodge. And the restaurant there is surprisingly good. I still remember the melt in your mouth trout I had for dinner. Take a couple of the ranger-led tours. We so lucked out with our ranger although I suspect they are all good. But touring the Balcony House was a very spiritual experience and climbing that ladder up the sheer cliff wall is something I'll never forget.

As for Vegas, try the Wynn or maybe one of the new places like Aria or Vdara. I like the Bellagio, too. Children aren't allowed in the casinos. Smoking is, however, if that's a concern for you.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 10:59 AM
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Monument Valley can be done pretty quickly. You can see most of the iconic views from the visitor's center, but a drive through or a tour with a Navajo will give you a bit more, but only take a couple of hours unless you opt for a longer tour.

I would want to spend a day in Zion, maybe one less in Vegas or Bryce. You can do Bryce in a day unless you want to hike a lot, it is much smaller than Zion and they are very different.

What sharona said about Mesa Verde, doubled.
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Old May 22nd, 2013, 10:36 AM
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Yosemite is beautiful but I would have a lot of trouble going back. It's the most commercial of all national parks. Everything they do is intended to get you to buy a ticket to something. The only park like that.

If you stay outside the park for Yosemite you will be very far from the Valley.

Also, Californians like to drive their cars so Yosemite hasn't figured out how to manage that. A 4 hour traffic jam inside the park (and not due to road construction or animals) is unacceptable.

Don't skip Zion if you are going to Bryce Canyon. They are about 90 miles apart but Zion is about 4,000 lower and very different. Bryce is one of a kind and you can get a feel for the park by getting up early for sunrise at Bryce Point and then after a nap hiking Navajo Loop and Queens Garden.

You can be ready to leave Bryce by early / mid-afternoon.
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