Maine trip report
Jul 27th, 2011, 08:33 AM
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Maine trip report
In mid-July, I spent 8 days in Maine and a couple enroute. A report of that trip follows. First, I have to warn you that I do not travel like many people. I am a collector of experiences and much prefer seeing new sights and new areas than staying in one place and immersing myself in that. This trip was no exception. If you would like to see some photos from this trip, they can be found at http://www.worldisround.com/articles/366292/index.html.
I flew out of Las Vegas to Boston on Jet Blue and, as usual, it was a pleasant trip with no delays and no dramatics. The only drawback was going through Boston. With all due respect to the people who live there, I hate Logan Airport and its surroundings. On a previous trip, admittedly on Easter Sunday, it took me a full two hours to get off the airport grounds after I got my rental car because of the extremely heavy traffic on the off-airport streets. This time was not as bad but, the traffic was still heavy, even arriving after 9:00 PM. Coming back in mid-afternoon of a week day, it was much worse.
The next day I headed north along the coast from Kittery to Portland. Along the way, I stopped for lunch (lobster rolls, of course) in Dunston. While eating, I read that a nearby marsh had been visited by a Little Egret the week before. This was noteworthy since this species had never before been identified in Maine. I am an avid wildlife photographer so I spent a couple of hours hiking in the marsh but never did see that bird. I saw lots of other egrets and some herons as well as some other common species and got a keeper picture or two.
In Portland, like Bar Harbor later, the town was jammed. I had intended to take a mail boat tour of Casco Harbor but was not able to find a parking space anywhere in the waterfront area. Even the large municipal parking garage was full. So, I headed inland and further north to my base of operations in Bangor.
I love seafood and ate lobster almost every day, sometimes twice. There is something decadent about having rich lobster rolls for lunch and then a sweet, whole lobster with all the trimmings for supper. Color me decadent! For the most part, I ate at lobster pounds and cafes and they were all good but not worth singling out. The exception was the Muddy Rudder, in Brewer across the river from Bangor. I had a crab-stuffed lobster there that was as good as any I’ve ever eaten anywhere. It was pricey but worth it.
The rest of my trip consisted of tours of various parts of Maine from Bangor and they will be described in the sections of this report that follow.
I flew out of Las Vegas to Boston on Jet Blue and, as usual, it was a pleasant trip with no delays and no dramatics. The only drawback was going through Boston. With all due respect to the people who live there, I hate Logan Airport and its surroundings. On a previous trip, admittedly on Easter Sunday, it took me a full two hours to get off the airport grounds after I got my rental car because of the extremely heavy traffic on the off-airport streets. This time was not as bad but, the traffic was still heavy, even arriving after 9:00 PM. Coming back in mid-afternoon of a week day, it was much worse.
The next day I headed north along the coast from Kittery to Portland. Along the way, I stopped for lunch (lobster rolls, of course) in Dunston. While eating, I read that a nearby marsh had been visited by a Little Egret the week before. This was noteworthy since this species had never before been identified in Maine. I am an avid wildlife photographer so I spent a couple of hours hiking in the marsh but never did see that bird. I saw lots of other egrets and some herons as well as some other common species and got a keeper picture or two.
In Portland, like Bar Harbor later, the town was jammed. I had intended to take a mail boat tour of Casco Harbor but was not able to find a parking space anywhere in the waterfront area. Even the large municipal parking garage was full. So, I headed inland and further north to my base of operations in Bangor.
I love seafood and ate lobster almost every day, sometimes twice. There is something decadent about having rich lobster rolls for lunch and then a sweet, whole lobster with all the trimmings for supper. Color me decadent! For the most part, I ate at lobster pounds and cafes and they were all good but not worth singling out. The exception was the Muddy Rudder, in Brewer across the river from Bangor. I had a crab-stuffed lobster there that was as good as any I’ve ever eaten anywhere. It was pricey but worth it.
The rest of my trip consisted of tours of various parts of Maine from Bangor and they will be described in the sections of this report that follow.
Jul 28th, 2011, 01:43 AM
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lobster every day is exactly the reason to visit Maine. When you get sick of lobster you can have fried clams or crab rolls or lobster stew or ...
Too bad you missed the (mail)boat. We took the early run so didn't have a problem getting a space in the parking garage. However, it must have filled up quickly because the boat was packed with people going to an island to work.
Looking forward to more of your report.
Too bad you missed the (mail)boat. We took the early run so didn't have a problem getting a space in the parking garage. However, it must have filled up quickly because the boat was packed with people going to an island to work.
Looking forward to more of your report.
Jul 28th, 2011, 03:29 AM
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Thanks for sharing your wonderful report and pictures, looking forward to the rest of the report. We will be in Maine in a little over a week now, so I'm getting excited and reading everything I can about Maine! 
Jul 28th, 2011, 07:07 AM
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I'm loving this report and the comments. I'm heading to Maine for 5 days right after Labor Day and am also planning to eat lobster every day, maybe twice a day.
And I couldn't decide between Bar Harbor and the Schoodic Peninsula so I'm dividing my time between the two - altho' I have a feeling I'm going to love the Schoodic Pen. more. I love "off the beaten path".
And I couldn't decide between Bar Harbor and the Schoodic Peninsula so I'm dividing my time between the two - altho' I have a feeling I'm going to love the Schoodic Pen. more. I love "off the beaten path".
Jul 28th, 2011, 07:41 AM
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Though not done on consecutive days, my touring covered two separate regions – the coastal strip from Bar Harbor north and the north woods. I will address these in two separate parts in this report.
The coastal area was the most scenic and my favorite area. Bar Harbor was picturesque and charming, if very crowded. On three different excursions into town, I was not able to find any parking space on two. The third was in the late afternoon and I lucked out with a space on the city wharf.
Like most of the central and northern coast, the Bar Harbor area is awash (pardon the pun) with rocky headlands, beautiful coves and inlets, and New England style homes. For those who have not visited, I recommend it. It is also the starting point for exploring Acadia National Park. Compared to many of the parks I am used to in the west, Acadia is not very big. However, what it lacks in size it makes up for in character. I took both the loop road through the park and the longer route from Bar Harbor, through Northeast and Northwest Harbors and down to Bass Harbor. I’m sure everyone thinks the area is beautiful but it was especially so for me since I live on the desert. Around every curve was another breathtaking vista of hardwood and softwood forests or rocky, dramatic shoreline.
The villages were small and quaint and, at least in summer, lovely. It might be a bit harder to appreciate them in the dead of winter but I doubt if I will ever find out.
I also decided to splurge a bit while I was there. There is a flight-seeing service out of Hancock County Airport near Bar Harbor that flies Waco open cockpit biplanes and I decided to make a flight with them. The Waco is a design from the late 1930’s in the hay day of open cockpit aviation. The planes they fly, however, are reproductions of the design and the one I flew was built in 1994.
Flying in a biplane is a mixed blessing. Because of the open cockpit there is no distorting glass between you and the scenery. However, because of the many wires and struts connecting the two wings, it is quite difficult to get unobstructed photos of the ground or sea below. I probably took 100+ photos while in flight but only three or four were keepers.
I also had one other experience during the flight that I truly enjoyed. I have been a pilot for most of my adult life but, about 12 years ago, I lost my medical clearance. Since that time, I have flown in many airplanes, large and small, but have not flown one myself. When my pilot found out I was a pilot, he was kind enough to let me fly the plane for about 20 minutes.
On other days, I toured farther north. One day was taken up with the Hancock and Schoodic Peninsulas. If anything, these were both more visually stimulating than even the Bar Harbor area. One of my character traits is that I easily visualize myself living in places I visit and that was especially so around the Schoodic Peninsula area. It is so gorgeous and has so much access to sheltered coves and bays. It would be quite a change from the 110 degrees we are going to have today here at home.
Before the days of electronic navigation, mariners along the coast depended on lighthouses to keep them off the shoals. Even so, many ships came to a sad end along these Maine rocks. Today, many of the lighthouses are still in operation in the area and make great photo opportunities.
On still another day, I toured further north, visiting Jonesport, East Machias, Cutler, Lubec, Calais, and back to Bangor. As you go north, the coast becomes more rugged. While there are still bays and coves, they are smaller and farther apart.
As I said earlier, I enjoy collecting experiences in my travels. Aside from seeing new areas, I had one other noteworthy occurrence on this trip. I reached the farthest east point you can reach in the United States at Lubec. In previous travels, I have been to the farthest southeast (Key West), the farthest southwest on the continent (Point Loma in San Diego), the farthest west on the U.S. road system (Anchor Point, AK), and the farthest west (west coast of Kauai).
All in all, the coast of Maine was a special place and I hope I will be able to return.
In my next section, I’ll finish the report with the north woods segment.
The coastal area was the most scenic and my favorite area. Bar Harbor was picturesque and charming, if very crowded. On three different excursions into town, I was not able to find any parking space on two. The third was in the late afternoon and I lucked out with a space on the city wharf.
Like most of the central and northern coast, the Bar Harbor area is awash (pardon the pun) with rocky headlands, beautiful coves and inlets, and New England style homes. For those who have not visited, I recommend it. It is also the starting point for exploring Acadia National Park. Compared to many of the parks I am used to in the west, Acadia is not very big. However, what it lacks in size it makes up for in character. I took both the loop road through the park and the longer route from Bar Harbor, through Northeast and Northwest Harbors and down to Bass Harbor. I’m sure everyone thinks the area is beautiful but it was especially so for me since I live on the desert. Around every curve was another breathtaking vista of hardwood and softwood forests or rocky, dramatic shoreline.
The villages were small and quaint and, at least in summer, lovely. It might be a bit harder to appreciate them in the dead of winter but I doubt if I will ever find out.
I also decided to splurge a bit while I was there. There is a flight-seeing service out of Hancock County Airport near Bar Harbor that flies Waco open cockpit biplanes and I decided to make a flight with them. The Waco is a design from the late 1930’s in the hay day of open cockpit aviation. The planes they fly, however, are reproductions of the design and the one I flew was built in 1994.
Flying in a biplane is a mixed blessing. Because of the open cockpit there is no distorting glass between you and the scenery. However, because of the many wires and struts connecting the two wings, it is quite difficult to get unobstructed photos of the ground or sea below. I probably took 100+ photos while in flight but only three or four were keepers.
I also had one other experience during the flight that I truly enjoyed. I have been a pilot for most of my adult life but, about 12 years ago, I lost my medical clearance. Since that time, I have flown in many airplanes, large and small, but have not flown one myself. When my pilot found out I was a pilot, he was kind enough to let me fly the plane for about 20 minutes.
On other days, I toured farther north. One day was taken up with the Hancock and Schoodic Peninsulas. If anything, these were both more visually stimulating than even the Bar Harbor area. One of my character traits is that I easily visualize myself living in places I visit and that was especially so around the Schoodic Peninsula area. It is so gorgeous and has so much access to sheltered coves and bays. It would be quite a change from the 110 degrees we are going to have today here at home.
Before the days of electronic navigation, mariners along the coast depended on lighthouses to keep them off the shoals. Even so, many ships came to a sad end along these Maine rocks. Today, many of the lighthouses are still in operation in the area and make great photo opportunities.
On still another day, I toured further north, visiting Jonesport, East Machias, Cutler, Lubec, Calais, and back to Bangor. As you go north, the coast becomes more rugged. While there are still bays and coves, they are smaller and farther apart.
As I said earlier, I enjoy collecting experiences in my travels. Aside from seeing new areas, I had one other noteworthy occurrence on this trip. I reached the farthest east point you can reach in the United States at Lubec. In previous travels, I have been to the farthest southeast (Key West), the farthest southwest on the continent (Point Loma in San Diego), the farthest west on the U.S. road system (Anchor Point, AK), and the farthest west (west coast of Kauai).
All in all, the coast of Maine was a special place and I hope I will be able to return.
In my next section, I’ll finish the report with the north woods segment.
Jul 29th, 2011, 07:50 PM
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Thanks for a wonderful report. I have not been to Maine since I was six yrs old and though I don't remember much from my childhood as I get older, I have never forgotten what a beautiful place Maine is.
Jul 30th, 2011, 07:41 AM
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Dwooddon-- Great report! Your comment about the decadence of lobsters reminds me how I fascinatingly learned on a recent trip to P.E.I. how wealthier people on that island in the late 19th/early 20th century snubbed this crustacean as it was seen to be too "common" and "poor folk's food".
I know you share with me the commonality of belonging to a rare-ish breed of people who enjoy long-distance train travel, which made it especially fascinating to me to learn that you were a career pilot! Funny, I'd always thought our travel styles were similar and I think they are in that we like to collect experiences, but I've discovered they're truly quite different in that I ideally like to soak in a destination for several days (possibly using it as a hub for a day trip further afield but not necessarily)... while you state you like to go from one to the next. Anyhow, it's been nice getting to know you a bit more via this trip report!
Best wishes, Daniel
I know you share with me the commonality of belonging to a rare-ish breed of people who enjoy long-distance train travel, which made it especially fascinating to me to learn that you were a career pilot! Funny, I'd always thought our travel styles were similar and I think they are in that we like to collect experiences, but I've discovered they're truly quite different in that I ideally like to soak in a destination for several days (possibly using it as a hub for a day trip further afield but not necessarily)... while you state you like to go from one to the next. Anyhow, it's been nice getting to know you a bit more via this trip report!
Best wishes, Daniel
Jul 30th, 2011, 09:52 AM
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Note to other lobster lovers, there is a branch of the Muddy Rudder right on Route 1 in Yarmouth, near Freeport. This location is more likely to be on the path of tourists than is the Brewer location.
Jul 30th, 2011, 12:18 PM
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Thanks to all for the nice compliments.
Jayneann: You are such a good wife! If your husband is anything like me, he will be very grateful and happy.
Santamonica - no wing walking, just flight-seeing. Since I have been on a weight loss regiman for the last several months, no blueberry pie - just lobster. I think I did good not gaining or losing and ounce during my trip.
Sandybrit - I use Marriott because of their rewards program I have been a member of for a very long time. I just used their web site to find a location that would be out of Boston but would not require me to drive half the night. Potsmouth was perfect for that.
Daniel - I feel like I've gotten to know you a bit also from our shared passion for train travel. Your comment about being a career pilot might be a bit misleading for some. I've been a pilot since I was a yound man and hold commerical, mulit-engine, and instrument ratings but I have never flown for a living. Aside from a few prisoner and executive transports for the Sheriff's Department, all my flying has been for personal business or pleasure.
Tracy - thanks for the info about the other Muddy Rudder. I did not know. If it's anything like the one in Brewer, it's very good, indeed.
Jayneann: You are such a good wife! If your husband is anything like me, he will be very grateful and happy.
Santamonica - no wing walking, just flight-seeing. Since I have been on a weight loss regiman for the last several months, no blueberry pie - just lobster. I think I did good not gaining or losing and ounce during my trip.
Sandybrit - I use Marriott because of their rewards program I have been a member of for a very long time. I just used their web site to find a location that would be out of Boston but would not require me to drive half the night. Potsmouth was perfect for that.
Daniel - I feel like I've gotten to know you a bit also from our shared passion for train travel. Your comment about being a career pilot might be a bit misleading for some. I've been a pilot since I was a yound man and hold commerical, mulit-engine, and instrument ratings but I have never flown for a living. Aside from a few prisoner and executive transports for the Sheriff's Department, all my flying has been for personal business or pleasure.
Tracy - thanks for the info about the other Muddy Rudder. I did not know. If it's anything like the one in Brewer, it's very good, indeed.
Jul 30th, 2011, 12:42 PM
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My travel through the north woods was done in segments on different days. Whenever it occurred, I found there was much similarity. I tried to stay off the interstate highways and use either state highways or country roads to the extent possible. All of them shared mile after mile of deep, heavy forests of both hard and soft woods. Hundreds of small lakes, ponds, and rivers dotted the landscape and the entire scene was pastoral and relaxing.
On one day, I drove straight north as far as Baxter State Park in central Maine. For those of you not familiar with it, a former state governor deeded a very large tract of land to the state with the proviso that, except for the logging road that existed at the time, it be left unchanged and maintained for the enjoyment of the public. So, you now have a park that is over 200,000 acres and is inaccessible by car except for that one unpaved logging road that runs across the west side from the southeast end to the northeast end. It is truly the forest primeval and I could spend a long time there.
Tourism information says Baxter Park and the area around it is a place where you are likely to spot moose. Apparently the moose did not read the same brochure I did since I saw none.
On another day, I traveled from the extreme east edge of Maine, near Calais back to Bangor. On my way back to Boston, I travelled west from Bangor to the Maine/New Hampshire state line. Between the two days, I crossed the entire central part of the state. It was all very relaxing and I enjoyed it but, too soon, I was back in the bustle of suburban Boston and then on my flight back to Las Vegas.
Like many areas, I came away with the impression that Maine is actually two separate states. The entire coastal area is very different from the wooded areas further inland. Nevertheless, I enjoyed my entire trip and would like to visit again if I have the opportunity.
On one day, I drove straight north as far as Baxter State Park in central Maine. For those of you not familiar with it, a former state governor deeded a very large tract of land to the state with the proviso that, except for the logging road that existed at the time, it be left unchanged and maintained for the enjoyment of the public. So, you now have a park that is over 200,000 acres and is inaccessible by car except for that one unpaved logging road that runs across the west side from the southeast end to the northeast end. It is truly the forest primeval and I could spend a long time there.
Tourism information says Baxter Park and the area around it is a place where you are likely to spot moose. Apparently the moose did not read the same brochure I did since I saw none.
On another day, I traveled from the extreme east edge of Maine, near Calais back to Bangor. On my way back to Boston, I travelled west from Bangor to the Maine/New Hampshire state line. Between the two days, I crossed the entire central part of the state. It was all very relaxing and I enjoyed it but, too soon, I was back in the bustle of suburban Boston and then on my flight back to Las Vegas.
Like many areas, I came away with the impression that Maine is actually two separate states. The entire coastal area is very different from the wooded areas further inland. Nevertheless, I enjoyed my entire trip and would like to visit again if I have the opportunity.
