Hot Fun in the Summertime: Chicago Trip Report
Aug 13th, 2007, 10:12 AM
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Hot Fun in the Summertime: Chicago Trip Report
We arrived on a Saturday. DD was attending the Giordano Jazz Dance World Congress, and we had decided to tag on a few extra days and make a vacation out of it. This would be my 8th trip to Chicago and DD’s 3rd. This time, we were determined to get out of the Michigan Ave. tourist zone (which more and more reasonables a cleaner version of Times Square – not really a good thing) and see more of the city.
Chicago greeted us with clouds and a slight breeze – perfect for exploring. We arrived at the venerable Palmer House Hilton around 11:00 a.m. This was my third stay in this lovely old hotel, and it did not disappoint. I was a bit anxious at check-in. I had a secured a discounted rate via the dance workshop more than a month before, but the reservation agent had tersely stated that the only rooms available at that rate were singles -- DD and I would have to share a double bed. !!! I was prepared to throw myself on the mercy of the desk staff and plead my case for a bigger room - with tears, if necessary. But the very kind desk clerk took one look at DD and I (and our luggage) and sweetly asked if we needed two beds. I swallowed a huge ball of relief and gratefully nodded yes. Our rooms were ready, so we made our way to the elevator and up to our room.
The Palmer House has been undergoing a facelift recently, but the work was not obtrusive. It’s one of my favorite places to stay in Chicago. The location is wonderful – Michigan Ave. and Millennium Park are just a block away. The proximity to public transportation can’t be beat – the red line on State St. is mere steps, while the blue line is right up the street at Monroe and Dearborn. It’s also lovely, and the service is consistently excellent. DD was delighted by the dramatic lobby, marble floors and glittering elevator. Our room was on the 12th floor, which has been re-carpeted and painted, and adorned with huge B&W photos of entertainers who have stayed at the PH in the last century. Our room (12-202) was clean, airy and spacious, with a real “vintage” feel. To our surprise and delight, we not had only two beds – we had two bathrooms! We blessed the desk agent yet again, quickly unpacked, and hit the city.
Our first stop was the Chicago Cultural Center, just a few blocks from the Palmer House. We needed multi-day CTA passes, plus we wanted to see the Mark di Suvero exhibit, “Peace Tower.” It was disturbing and very moving. The room housing the exhibit overlooked Millennium Park, and we could see di Suvero’s “Orion” sculpture clearly from our vantage point. We appreciated the clever juxtapositioning.
We had decided in advance to hit as many neighborhood festivals as possible, so next stop – Wicker Park! We boarded the blue line at the Monroe and Dearborn station. Both the Chicago Reader and Time Out had warned of delays on the CTA, so we were unsurprised when the train stopped dead on its tracks between the Grand and Chicago stations. This happened multiple times, and what should have been a 15-to-20 minute train ride stretched to nearly an hour. We made a mental note to allow ourselves extra time when travelling via train.
We exited at the Damen stop, and followed the music and our noses to the festival. Wicker Park was refreshingly mellow after the touristy bustle of Michigan Ave. It was still early and fairly uncrowded, so we were able to explore the many booths at a leisurely pace. I was a little disappointed with the offerings – just your standard, run-of the mill overpriced jewelry and t-shirts. Quickly realized that this festival was more about the music than anything else, which was fine, actually. We strolled a bit – I bought a glass of wine and we settled in to listen to one of the bands. Wicker Park is very dog-friendly. They were everywhere, and they were irresistible. I made friends with an enormous, laid-back bear of a black lab and struck up a conversation with her owner. DD, meanwhile, was boogying to the music with a couple of other young people, who turned out to also be dance students. We felt embraced by the relaxed, friendly, well-behaved crowd, and ended up staying for the entire set.
After the band finished, DD was ready to resume exploring, so we exited the festival and headed over to Milwaukee Ave. We detoured through Wicker Park, which was peaceful and lovely. I think we were expecting a weird, frenetic vibe ala Union Square Park, so the park’s lush calm was a nice surprise. The whole area is less grungy angst, more “live and let live.” The park is surrounded by lovely old brownstones, and DD of course fantasized about living there “one of these days.”
We made it over to Milwaukee Ave. and spent the next couple of hours perusing the many vintage clothing stores. Una Mae’s Freak Boutique was especially fun. DD found an absolutely stunning mid-length satin, lace and velvet dress for $40 – a one-of-a- kind steal!
After all the strolling and shopping, we were famished and nearly spent. A sign, “Bin – A Wine Café” beckoned from across the street so we made our way over. The sidewalk tables were full, alas, so we were seated near the back, which was fine with us. I guess our exhaustion was pretty evident because the busboy brought us a pitcher of ice water and two glasses immediately. The interior was airy and casually upscale, with high ceilings, light woods and colorful, Chicago-centric art on the walls. Our waiter (a dead ringer for Moby) was attentive and funny. I sadly declined the wine offerings – any more imbibing on my part would have meant an early night for me and an end to our wanderings. It was too early for dinner, but their “Weekend Nosh” menu had plenty of satisfying options. I ordered the Café Burger, while DD had the tomato-mozzarella wood fired pizza. Both were excellent.
Refueled, we set out for a store I have long wanted to explore – Myopic Books. DD and I are both rabid bibliophiles, and we spent a very happy two hours wandering the store's three floors, digging for literary treasure. We each found couple of volumes and settled in on one of the couches to read through our selections as music from the festival wafted in …
We returned to the Palmer House and freshened up for the evening. We had decided against attending Venetian Night due to the crowds, opting instead to attend a performance of Chicago Tap Theater at the Mercury Theater in the Southport area of Lakeview. The performance was scheduled for 9:30, so we boarded the brown line a little after 7, intending to explore the Southport area a bit. Thanks to Time Out, we knew the Southport station was closed, so we exited at the Wellington station. It was quite a hike from the station to Southport St., but the neighborhood was very pretty (more brownstones!) so it was pleasant. We arrived at the theater a little after 8 intending to purchase out tickets early, but a sign was posted – “9:30 p.m. performance is cancelled” -- !!! We briefly weighed our options and decided to head back and see what was left of Venetian Night. We hurried back to the brown line (which was swift and uninterrupted), then caught the bus over to the Navy Pier. We arrived just as the fireworks were starting. It was a fitting end to a very full day. We returned to the Palmer House and collapsed into our very comfortable beds, thoroughly exhausted and thoroughly satisfied.
More to come …
Chicago greeted us with clouds and a slight breeze – perfect for exploring. We arrived at the venerable Palmer House Hilton around 11:00 a.m. This was my third stay in this lovely old hotel, and it did not disappoint. I was a bit anxious at check-in. I had a secured a discounted rate via the dance workshop more than a month before, but the reservation agent had tersely stated that the only rooms available at that rate were singles -- DD and I would have to share a double bed. !!! I was prepared to throw myself on the mercy of the desk staff and plead my case for a bigger room - with tears, if necessary. But the very kind desk clerk took one look at DD and I (and our luggage) and sweetly asked if we needed two beds. I swallowed a huge ball of relief and gratefully nodded yes. Our rooms were ready, so we made our way to the elevator and up to our room.
The Palmer House has been undergoing a facelift recently, but the work was not obtrusive. It’s one of my favorite places to stay in Chicago. The location is wonderful – Michigan Ave. and Millennium Park are just a block away. The proximity to public transportation can’t be beat – the red line on State St. is mere steps, while the blue line is right up the street at Monroe and Dearborn. It’s also lovely, and the service is consistently excellent. DD was delighted by the dramatic lobby, marble floors and glittering elevator. Our room was on the 12th floor, which has been re-carpeted and painted, and adorned with huge B&W photos of entertainers who have stayed at the PH in the last century. Our room (12-202) was clean, airy and spacious, with a real “vintage” feel. To our surprise and delight, we not had only two beds – we had two bathrooms! We blessed the desk agent yet again, quickly unpacked, and hit the city.
Our first stop was the Chicago Cultural Center, just a few blocks from the Palmer House. We needed multi-day CTA passes, plus we wanted to see the Mark di Suvero exhibit, “Peace Tower.” It was disturbing and very moving. The room housing the exhibit overlooked Millennium Park, and we could see di Suvero’s “Orion” sculpture clearly from our vantage point. We appreciated the clever juxtapositioning.
We had decided in advance to hit as many neighborhood festivals as possible, so next stop – Wicker Park! We boarded the blue line at the Monroe and Dearborn station. Both the Chicago Reader and Time Out had warned of delays on the CTA, so we were unsurprised when the train stopped dead on its tracks between the Grand and Chicago stations. This happened multiple times, and what should have been a 15-to-20 minute train ride stretched to nearly an hour. We made a mental note to allow ourselves extra time when travelling via train.
We exited at the Damen stop, and followed the music and our noses to the festival. Wicker Park was refreshingly mellow after the touristy bustle of Michigan Ave. It was still early and fairly uncrowded, so we were able to explore the many booths at a leisurely pace. I was a little disappointed with the offerings – just your standard, run-of the mill overpriced jewelry and t-shirts. Quickly realized that this festival was more about the music than anything else, which was fine, actually. We strolled a bit – I bought a glass of wine and we settled in to listen to one of the bands. Wicker Park is very dog-friendly. They were everywhere, and they were irresistible. I made friends with an enormous, laid-back bear of a black lab and struck up a conversation with her owner. DD, meanwhile, was boogying to the music with a couple of other young people, who turned out to also be dance students. We felt embraced by the relaxed, friendly, well-behaved crowd, and ended up staying for the entire set.
After the band finished, DD was ready to resume exploring, so we exited the festival and headed over to Milwaukee Ave. We detoured through Wicker Park, which was peaceful and lovely. I think we were expecting a weird, frenetic vibe ala Union Square Park, so the park’s lush calm was a nice surprise. The whole area is less grungy angst, more “live and let live.” The park is surrounded by lovely old brownstones, and DD of course fantasized about living there “one of these days.”
We made it over to Milwaukee Ave. and spent the next couple of hours perusing the many vintage clothing stores. Una Mae’s Freak Boutique was especially fun. DD found an absolutely stunning mid-length satin, lace and velvet dress for $40 – a one-of-a- kind steal!
After all the strolling and shopping, we were famished and nearly spent. A sign, “Bin – A Wine Café” beckoned from across the street so we made our way over. The sidewalk tables were full, alas, so we were seated near the back, which was fine with us. I guess our exhaustion was pretty evident because the busboy brought us a pitcher of ice water and two glasses immediately. The interior was airy and casually upscale, with high ceilings, light woods and colorful, Chicago-centric art on the walls. Our waiter (a dead ringer for Moby) was attentive and funny. I sadly declined the wine offerings – any more imbibing on my part would have meant an early night for me and an end to our wanderings. It was too early for dinner, but their “Weekend Nosh” menu had plenty of satisfying options. I ordered the Café Burger, while DD had the tomato-mozzarella wood fired pizza. Both were excellent.
Refueled, we set out for a store I have long wanted to explore – Myopic Books. DD and I are both rabid bibliophiles, and we spent a very happy two hours wandering the store's three floors, digging for literary treasure. We each found couple of volumes and settled in on one of the couches to read through our selections as music from the festival wafted in …
We returned to the Palmer House and freshened up for the evening. We had decided against attending Venetian Night due to the crowds, opting instead to attend a performance of Chicago Tap Theater at the Mercury Theater in the Southport area of Lakeview. The performance was scheduled for 9:30, so we boarded the brown line a little after 7, intending to explore the Southport area a bit. Thanks to Time Out, we knew the Southport station was closed, so we exited at the Wellington station. It was quite a hike from the station to Southport St., but the neighborhood was very pretty (more brownstones!) so it was pleasant. We arrived at the theater a little after 8 intending to purchase out tickets early, but a sign was posted – “9:30 p.m. performance is cancelled” -- !!! We briefly weighed our options and decided to head back and see what was left of Venetian Night. We hurried back to the brown line (which was swift and uninterrupted), then caught the bus over to the Navy Pier. We arrived just as the fireworks were starting. It was a fitting end to a very full day. We returned to the Palmer House and collapsed into our very comfortable beds, thoroughly exhausted and thoroughly satisfied.
More to come …
Aug 13th, 2007, 05:57 PM
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Day Two
Our room was surprisingly quiet – zero street noise and no noise from adjacent occupants – so of course we overslept. The dance workshop began at 9 a.m., so I hurried over to the Corner Bakery adjacent to the hotel for a quick take-out breakfast while DD got ready. This turned out to be our go-to option for breakfast, since it was quick, tasty and cheap. They offer a little bit of everything, from full breakfasts to muffins, fruit and yogurt.
After dropping DD off, I set out for the Newberry Library book sale. (Thanks for telling me about this, exiledprincess!) Since it was the last day, I knew the books would be picked over, but I also knew they would discounted. Sure enough, a huge sign advertised all books 50% off. I managed to find a few, spending all of $10. My used-book jones sated, I strolled back toward Rush St. and stumbled upon still another street festival next to the Episcopal Diocese on Huron St. I never tire of these things, and the wares were beautiful and unusual. I grabbed a gyro at one of the food booths, and enjoyed a very excellent bluegrass band. I struck up a conversation with one of the artisans, who, in one of those “small world moments” turned out to be from my hometown. After losing her business and her husband eight years before, she packed up and moved to Chicago, determined to leave the rat race and live the kind of freelance, artistic existence that most of us dream about (at least I do – sometimes!)
It was getting late, so I hopped the redline and headed back to the hotel. DD was already there, showered, dressed and veeerrry hungry. After a quick change, we headed over to Brasserie Jo – a favorite from a previous visit. We love the ambience here – elegant but not intimidating. It was still early, so we were seated right away. I treated myself to an excellent glass of wine, and we started with an cheese and fruit plate – outstanding! After the appetizer (not to mention the gyro earlier), I wasn’t that hungry, so I ordered the Grilled Lemon Chicken Paillard with a small side salad. It was disappointingly bland. DD, however, had Steak Frites with Roquefort butter, which she pronounced excellent. The service was a bit slow, and we waited nearly 20 minutes for our check. Our waitress was dealing with two large, very demanding tables, so we tried to be patient, but we were trying to make a 7 p.m. showing of “Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind.”
By the time we finally received and paid for our check, it was 6:10, so we raced back to State St. and the red line. Good thing I was wearing flats! Fortunately, the red line was running smoothly, with no interruptions. We caught the 22 bus over to Foster St and made it with minutes to spare. There was still a small line at the door, and as we approached, we understood why: The tickets were $7.00, plus one had to roll a die and pay whatever number was rolled. DD rolled a 1, while I rolled a 5, meaning we paid an additional $6.
The show was, in a word – fantastic. The actors attempt to perform 30 plays in 60 minutes. I can’t even begin to describe it, except that it’s true improvisational theater -- breathtakingly paced, random, at times screamingly funny, and also serious, with a political bent. There’s quite a bit of audience participation, and it’s inventive and fun – edgy and creative in a way I *thought* the Second City would be, but isn’t. Hands down, the best $20 I’ve spent in a long time. I can’t recommend it enough. If you get the chance, by all means – go!
The trip back took nearly an hour, and though it was only 9:30, we decided to turn in. Another very full, very fun day.
Our room was surprisingly quiet – zero street noise and no noise from adjacent occupants – so of course we overslept. The dance workshop began at 9 a.m., so I hurried over to the Corner Bakery adjacent to the hotel for a quick take-out breakfast while DD got ready. This turned out to be our go-to option for breakfast, since it was quick, tasty and cheap. They offer a little bit of everything, from full breakfasts to muffins, fruit and yogurt.
After dropping DD off, I set out for the Newberry Library book sale. (Thanks for telling me about this, exiledprincess!) Since it was the last day, I knew the books would be picked over, but I also knew they would discounted. Sure enough, a huge sign advertised all books 50% off. I managed to find a few, spending all of $10. My used-book jones sated, I strolled back toward Rush St. and stumbled upon still another street festival next to the Episcopal Diocese on Huron St. I never tire of these things, and the wares were beautiful and unusual. I grabbed a gyro at one of the food booths, and enjoyed a very excellent bluegrass band. I struck up a conversation with one of the artisans, who, in one of those “small world moments” turned out to be from my hometown. After losing her business and her husband eight years before, she packed up and moved to Chicago, determined to leave the rat race and live the kind of freelance, artistic existence that most of us dream about (at least I do – sometimes!)
It was getting late, so I hopped the redline and headed back to the hotel. DD was already there, showered, dressed and veeerrry hungry. After a quick change, we headed over to Brasserie Jo – a favorite from a previous visit. We love the ambience here – elegant but not intimidating. It was still early, so we were seated right away. I treated myself to an excellent glass of wine, and we started with an cheese and fruit plate – outstanding! After the appetizer (not to mention the gyro earlier), I wasn’t that hungry, so I ordered the Grilled Lemon Chicken Paillard with a small side salad. It was disappointingly bland. DD, however, had Steak Frites with Roquefort butter, which she pronounced excellent. The service was a bit slow, and we waited nearly 20 minutes for our check. Our waitress was dealing with two large, very demanding tables, so we tried to be patient, but we were trying to make a 7 p.m. showing of “Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind.”
By the time we finally received and paid for our check, it was 6:10, so we raced back to State St. and the red line. Good thing I was wearing flats! Fortunately, the red line was running smoothly, with no interruptions. We caught the 22 bus over to Foster St and made it with minutes to spare. There was still a small line at the door, and as we approached, we understood why: The tickets were $7.00, plus one had to roll a die and pay whatever number was rolled. DD rolled a 1, while I rolled a 5, meaning we paid an additional $6.
The show was, in a word – fantastic. The actors attempt to perform 30 plays in 60 minutes. I can’t even begin to describe it, except that it’s true improvisational theater -- breathtakingly paced, random, at times screamingly funny, and also serious, with a political bent. There’s quite a bit of audience participation, and it’s inventive and fun – edgy and creative in a way I *thought* the Second City would be, but isn’t. Hands down, the best $20 I’ve spent in a long time. I can’t recommend it enough. If you get the chance, by all means – go!
The trip back took nearly an hour, and though it was only 9:30, we decided to turn in. Another very full, very fun day.
Aug 15th, 2007, 08:36 AM
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Thanks for the feedback!
I’ve re-read these and realized I’m probably getting a little too detailed! Will try to just hit the highlights moving forward!
Day 3 dawned windless, clear and warm. I had the whole day to myself, so I scheduled a bicycle tour for later in the afternoon. Since the tour didn’t leave until 1:30, I had a little to kill, so I hopped the #29 bus over to Navy Pier and walked back to Fox & Obel grocery for breakfast. This is a gourmet market with a café, and the food is outstanding and reasonably priced – a good choice for families (there were plenty of them around that morning!) Rationalizing that I need to fuel up for the excursion ahead -
- I treated myself to challah french toast – yummy!
The bike tour departed from the same area – “River East” – at 1:30. I did the “Lakefront Neighborhoods Tour” and it was great fun – well worth the $30 and I highly recommend it. We went all over the Gold Coast area (some of which I had covered the previous day), parts of Lincoln Park and Old Town (the park itself is lovely, though very narrow) and the North Shore beach walk – very beautiful and picturesque. I was a little worried about whether I could last through the heat and the distance, but the tour goes at an even pace, and the breeze kept us cooled off for the most part. Definitely take a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water!
Exhausted but happy, I returned the hotel. DD was completely spent from the dance workshop, so after an early supper at Cosi, we called it a day.
DD’s dance workshop finished up at noon the next day, so after a quick shower and a change we hit the stores. We went up Michigan Ave. first, but the heat and the crowds made strolling unpleasant. We decided take the brown line over to Lincoln Park and hit the stores along Armitage Ave. This was much more to our liking. Much less crowded, plus the trees lining the streets along Armitage and Halstead made the day seem cooler. We especially enjoyed Lush, Lori’s Shoes, and Metropark.
We were famished, so we scouted the ample restaurant selections along the corridor. DD was eager to try tapas, so we backtracked to Café Baba Reeba. This is a lively, popular place, and even though it was early, the wait was still 45 minutes. I nearly protested when I saw them leading us to the outdoor dining area – it was still hot and humid outside. But it turned out OK – the trees, a breeze and a pitcher of tasty white sangria kept it bearable. The food was a little uneven – we ordered hot (goat cheese in tomato sauce) and cold cheese plates. The goat cheese was melted into the sauce into a gloppy, tasteless mess. DD ordered calamari and she said it was just OK. The short ribs and mashed potatoes were outstanding, as were the stuffed mushrooms and bacon- wrapped dates. DD absolutely loved it here, but I would rate it a b-minus at best.
(to be continued..)
I’ve re-read these and realized I’m probably getting a little too detailed! Will try to just hit the highlights moving forward!
Day 3 dawned windless, clear and warm. I had the whole day to myself, so I scheduled a bicycle tour for later in the afternoon. Since the tour didn’t leave until 1:30, I had a little to kill, so I hopped the #29 bus over to Navy Pier and walked back to Fox & Obel grocery for breakfast. This is a gourmet market with a café, and the food is outstanding and reasonably priced – a good choice for families (there were plenty of them around that morning!) Rationalizing that I need to fuel up for the excursion ahead -
- I treated myself to challah french toast – yummy! The bike tour departed from the same area – “River East” – at 1:30. I did the “Lakefront Neighborhoods Tour” and it was great fun – well worth the $30 and I highly recommend it. We went all over the Gold Coast area (some of which I had covered the previous day), parts of Lincoln Park and Old Town (the park itself is lovely, though very narrow) and the North Shore beach walk – very beautiful and picturesque. I was a little worried about whether I could last through the heat and the distance, but the tour goes at an even pace, and the breeze kept us cooled off for the most part. Definitely take a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water!
Exhausted but happy, I returned the hotel. DD was completely spent from the dance workshop, so after an early supper at Cosi, we called it a day.
DD’s dance workshop finished up at noon the next day, so after a quick shower and a change we hit the stores. We went up Michigan Ave. first, but the heat and the crowds made strolling unpleasant. We decided take the brown line over to Lincoln Park and hit the stores along Armitage Ave. This was much more to our liking. Much less crowded, plus the trees lining the streets along Armitage and Halstead made the day seem cooler. We especially enjoyed Lush, Lori’s Shoes, and Metropark.
We were famished, so we scouted the ample restaurant selections along the corridor. DD was eager to try tapas, so we backtracked to Café Baba Reeba. This is a lively, popular place, and even though it was early, the wait was still 45 minutes. I nearly protested when I saw them leading us to the outdoor dining area – it was still hot and humid outside. But it turned out OK – the trees, a breeze and a pitcher of tasty white sangria kept it bearable. The food was a little uneven – we ordered hot (goat cheese in tomato sauce) and cold cheese plates. The goat cheese was melted into the sauce into a gloppy, tasteless mess. DD ordered calamari and she said it was just OK. The short ribs and mashed potatoes were outstanding, as were the stuffed mushrooms and bacon- wrapped dates. DD absolutely loved it here, but I would rate it a b-minus at best.
(to be continued..)
Aug 15th, 2007, 09:58 AM
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The Heat is on
My son and his fiancé joined us the next day. They took the train in from O’Hare, and I met them at the Monroe/Dearborn station. We were switching hotels, so we fetched DD and headed over to the Hilton Chicago on S. Michigan Ave. It was still early, so the check-in line was short, and the very nice desk clerk said she would call us when our rooms were ready. We checked our bags ($2 each) and headed over to Orange at 75 W. Harrison for brunch. It was just a short stroll from the hotel, but the heat – even at 10 am – was beginning to make walking even the shortest distance a challenge.
Orange is a cute little restaurant (many of you are likely familiar with the Lincoln Park location.) The interior is airy and casual, with high ceilings, light wood floors and whimsical art on the walls. We were seated right away, and the service was laid-back, yet polite. Everyone was eager to sample the exotic fresh juices – DD choosing strawberry orange, DS white grape and apple, and Future daughter in law (FDIL) selecting pineapple-mango. (I declined – can’t really tolerate fresh juice, alas). The food was very, very tasty as well, and reasonably priced (for Chicago standards!).
The desk clerk phoned, letting us know that our rooms were ready, so we headed back to unpack and get situated. A few words about the Hilton Chicago: First, I got the rooms through Priceline for $89.00 per night– an absolute steal, as most rooms that week were a minimum of $250 per night. They also accommodated our request for rooms w/ two bathrooms, which made me very happy. I had stayed here five years ago, and they have remodeled the lobby and added a Starbucks station. Our rooms were on the 9th floor, which was a little dark and dreary. The rooms were dark, too, and smaller than the room we had at the Palmer House, as were the bathrooms and closet. It was very clean, though, and the service was consistent and very good. I doubt I would choose this hotel if I had to pay full rate, but for the price I paid, it was an excellent value.
This was FDIL’s first trip to Chicago, and she was eager to do one of the Towers, so we headed over to the Sears Tower. A bit of advice if your coming from the South: we were told to take the 151 bus, and after waiting nearly 20 minutes, discovered that it no longer stops in front of the Hilton. After another interminable wait (in 90-degree heat, no less!) we walked up to Congress Ave and caught the #7 bus instead. Note: Practice patience when waiting for a bus – they’re pretty inconsistent these days. No matter what the schedule says, waits of up to 30 minutes are not uncommon.
We made it over to the Sears Tower finally, and the wait was not that bad. We enjoyed it, although all that walking in the blistering sun seemed to drain our energy and enthusiasm a bit. (I’ve been in Chicago in August several times, and I’ve *never* seen it so hot. It really affected us after a while – so much of what Chicago offers is *outdoors,* and the heat radiating up from the sidewalks, not to mention the humidity rising up from the lake, made for sweaty, exhausting days.)
Since we were so drained, we decided to scrap any further plans that afternoon and headed back to the hotel to refresh and relax. Everyone felt much better after a shower and a siesta, and we headed over to the Red line at State & Harrison at 5 pm.
Next stop – Wrigley Field! This was our first Cubs game, and we were beyond excited. The atmosphere was amazing – unlike any ballpark I’ve ever seen. Like a Roman Circus, only PG-rated. I had worried our seats (Section 517, row 2) would be too high to see anything, but the view was actually very good. The seats also were under the overhang and out of the sun, so we very comfortable. The view of the city as the sun went down was magical. We dined on delicious ballpark dogs, pizza, fries and beer (me) and had a fabulous time. Oh, and the Cubs won, too!
My son and his fiancé joined us the next day. They took the train in from O’Hare, and I met them at the Monroe/Dearborn station. We were switching hotels, so we fetched DD and headed over to the Hilton Chicago on S. Michigan Ave. It was still early, so the check-in line was short, and the very nice desk clerk said she would call us when our rooms were ready. We checked our bags ($2 each) and headed over to Orange at 75 W. Harrison for brunch. It was just a short stroll from the hotel, but the heat – even at 10 am – was beginning to make walking even the shortest distance a challenge.
Orange is a cute little restaurant (many of you are likely familiar with the Lincoln Park location.) The interior is airy and casual, with high ceilings, light wood floors and whimsical art on the walls. We were seated right away, and the service was laid-back, yet polite. Everyone was eager to sample the exotic fresh juices – DD choosing strawberry orange, DS white grape and apple, and Future daughter in law (FDIL) selecting pineapple-mango. (I declined – can’t really tolerate fresh juice, alas). The food was very, very tasty as well, and reasonably priced (for Chicago standards!).
The desk clerk phoned, letting us know that our rooms were ready, so we headed back to unpack and get situated. A few words about the Hilton Chicago: First, I got the rooms through Priceline for $89.00 per night– an absolute steal, as most rooms that week were a minimum of $250 per night. They also accommodated our request for rooms w/ two bathrooms, which made me very happy. I had stayed here five years ago, and they have remodeled the lobby and added a Starbucks station. Our rooms were on the 9th floor, which was a little dark and dreary. The rooms were dark, too, and smaller than the room we had at the Palmer House, as were the bathrooms and closet. It was very clean, though, and the service was consistent and very good. I doubt I would choose this hotel if I had to pay full rate, but for the price I paid, it was an excellent value.
This was FDIL’s first trip to Chicago, and she was eager to do one of the Towers, so we headed over to the Sears Tower. A bit of advice if your coming from the South: we were told to take the 151 bus, and after waiting nearly 20 minutes, discovered that it no longer stops in front of the Hilton. After another interminable wait (in 90-degree heat, no less!) we walked up to Congress Ave and caught the #7 bus instead. Note: Practice patience when waiting for a bus – they’re pretty inconsistent these days. No matter what the schedule says, waits of up to 30 minutes are not uncommon.
We made it over to the Sears Tower finally, and the wait was not that bad. We enjoyed it, although all that walking in the blistering sun seemed to drain our energy and enthusiasm a bit. (I’ve been in Chicago in August several times, and I’ve *never* seen it so hot. It really affected us after a while – so much of what Chicago offers is *outdoors,* and the heat radiating up from the sidewalks, not to mention the humidity rising up from the lake, made for sweaty, exhausting days.)
Since we were so drained, we decided to scrap any further plans that afternoon and headed back to the hotel to refresh and relax. Everyone felt much better after a shower and a siesta, and we headed over to the Red line at State & Harrison at 5 pm.
Next stop – Wrigley Field! This was our first Cubs game, and we were beyond excited. The atmosphere was amazing – unlike any ballpark I’ve ever seen. Like a Roman Circus, only PG-rated. I had worried our seats (Section 517, row 2) would be too high to see anything, but the view was actually very good. The seats also were under the overhang and out of the sun, so we very comfortable. The view of the city as the sun went down was magical. We dined on delicious ballpark dogs, pizza, fries and beer (me) and had a fabulous time. Oh, and the Cubs won, too!
Aug 19th, 2007, 02:35 PM
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Final Installment:
Our final two days were crammed with the usual sort of activities Chicago offers. I’ll keep it brief, as it’s been several days since my previous installments, and I don’t want to bore everyone with details of much-discussed tourist attractions.
I will add to the many rave reviews of the Chicago Architectural Foundation’s river tour – we found it fun and amazing, even with the 95-degree sun bearing down on us. Well worth it!
Also, Second City’s “Between Barack and a Hard Place” was raucous and fun. It was my third SC show, and by far the best I’ve seen.
Restaurants: we’re not big foodies, and I was on a budget besides. We did, however, eat brunch twice at Yolk. The breakfast buffet at the Hilton was $20 per person and I refused to eat there o principle, and so Yolk was a real find. The interior was clean, bright and comfortable. The service the best we received anywhere in Chicago – fast, attentive and courteous. And then there was the food – simply outstanding, and since orders came with two sides (unlike Orange, where sides were extra), a real value. We also ate at Gino’s East Pizza. I’m not a fan (mark me strictly within the Giordano’s camp on that issue), but DS ate there before and liked it, so it was a mandatory stop for this trip.
Finally, a few comments about the Hilton’s South Loop location: As I stated previously, I had stayed here before five years earlier. At that time, this part of town was half-dead during the daytime and comatose at night. It’s really changed – for the better, I think. More eating establishments, such as the aforementioned Orange and Yolk, as well as Oysy, Trattoria Caterina (which we didn’t have time to sample), plus quite a few quick eating places like Panerra, Potbelly’s, etc., especially on S. Dearborn and South Wabash. There’s also a Caribou Coffee at 8th & Wabash – closer than the Starbucks on Dearborn – with better coffee, IMHO.
The area seems livelier and far less desolate than I remembered. I’m sure this is due to the popularity of the area overall with new residents (new condos going up on every block, seemingly), plus Columbia College and Roosevelt University nearby assures the presence of a lively college crowd.
World I stay here again? Only if I obtained another great deal on Priceline. The area is still a bit inconvenient. I didn’t like having to hike three very long city blocks in the heat to the red line, and there are no convenient drug stores, etc where I could stock up on provisions like bottled water, etc. I guess I was spoiled by the Palmer House’s proximity to everything – drugstores and bakeries next door, el stop just a few steps away, as well as restaurants. We had our longest waits for the busses at the stop on S. Michigan & Balbo, and this was extremely frustrating (the heat erased our patience on this issue.) But again, I certainly wouldn’t shun it the price was right.
It’s all relative, I guess. I’ve stayed on North Michigan Ave. (the Westin, and Courtyard Miracle Mile), as well as the Hyatt and the Sheraton, and for me, the combination of value, proximity to conveniences and public transportation, clean, spacious rooms and great service are why I prefer the PH and the Loop area in general.
Hope this info has been helpful.
Our final two days were crammed with the usual sort of activities Chicago offers. I’ll keep it brief, as it’s been several days since my previous installments, and I don’t want to bore everyone with details of much-discussed tourist attractions.
I will add to the many rave reviews of the Chicago Architectural Foundation’s river tour – we found it fun and amazing, even with the 95-degree sun bearing down on us. Well worth it!
Also, Second City’s “Between Barack and a Hard Place” was raucous and fun. It was my third SC show, and by far the best I’ve seen.
Restaurants: we’re not big foodies, and I was on a budget besides. We did, however, eat brunch twice at Yolk. The breakfast buffet at the Hilton was $20 per person and I refused to eat there o principle, and so Yolk was a real find. The interior was clean, bright and comfortable. The service the best we received anywhere in Chicago – fast, attentive and courteous. And then there was the food – simply outstanding, and since orders came with two sides (unlike Orange, where sides were extra), a real value. We also ate at Gino’s East Pizza. I’m not a fan (mark me strictly within the Giordano’s camp on that issue), but DS ate there before and liked it, so it was a mandatory stop for this trip.
Finally, a few comments about the Hilton’s South Loop location: As I stated previously, I had stayed here before five years earlier. At that time, this part of town was half-dead during the daytime and comatose at night. It’s really changed – for the better, I think. More eating establishments, such as the aforementioned Orange and Yolk, as well as Oysy, Trattoria Caterina (which we didn’t have time to sample), plus quite a few quick eating places like Panerra, Potbelly’s, etc., especially on S. Dearborn and South Wabash. There’s also a Caribou Coffee at 8th & Wabash – closer than the Starbucks on Dearborn – with better coffee, IMHO.
The area seems livelier and far less desolate than I remembered. I’m sure this is due to the popularity of the area overall with new residents (new condos going up on every block, seemingly), plus Columbia College and Roosevelt University nearby assures the presence of a lively college crowd.
World I stay here again? Only if I obtained another great deal on Priceline. The area is still a bit inconvenient. I didn’t like having to hike three very long city blocks in the heat to the red line, and there are no convenient drug stores, etc where I could stock up on provisions like bottled water, etc. I guess I was spoiled by the Palmer House’s proximity to everything – drugstores and bakeries next door, el stop just a few steps away, as well as restaurants. We had our longest waits for the busses at the stop on S. Michigan & Balbo, and this was extremely frustrating (the heat erased our patience on this issue.) But again, I certainly wouldn’t shun it the price was right.
It’s all relative, I guess. I’ve stayed on North Michigan Ave. (the Westin, and Courtyard Miracle Mile), as well as the Hyatt and the Sheraton, and for me, the combination of value, proximity to conveniences and public transportation, clean, spacious rooms and great service are why I prefer the PH and the Loop area in general.
Hope this info has been helpful.
Aug 20th, 2007, 09:12 AM
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Brookside, glad you enjoyed your stay here.
Would you please confirm one thing, though. You commented that sides are not included at Orange on Harrison. Now I haven't been there in a couple of months, due to my schedule, but the omelettes and eggs normally come with house potatoes and/or toast. Are you saying they no longer do?
Would you please confirm one thing, though. You commented that sides are not included at Orange on Harrison. Now I haven't been there in a couple of months, due to my schedule, but the omelettes and eggs normally come with house potatoes and/or toast. Are you saying they no longer do?
Aug 20th, 2007, 03:20 PM
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I just saw this trip report, it is really very helpful, thanks CAPH52 for topping.
I presume that the area around Palmer House is pretty safe. Any areas we should avoid at night? This is the first time we will be staying downtown.
I presume that the area around Palmer House is pretty safe. Any areas we should avoid at night? This is the first time we will be staying downtown.
Aug 20th, 2007, 05:59 PM
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Hi Brookside: Thanks for you report.
I only have a few minutes to glance at your report and will read it in detail when I return home.
We are currently tourists in Chicago right now. We leave tomorrow.
Excited-Confused:
I can recommend some outstanding restaurants:
Merlo on Maple (16 W. Maple #312-335-8200) Excellent Italian - very pricey but superb food and wine.
Tango Sur - med priced. Argentine food. Near Wrigley Field - the best rib eye and potatoes!
Don't go to Gold Coast Dogs on N. Wabash at Randolph (this was highly recommended by Frommers, and many other restaurant reviews, but not smart fodorites!) The hot dogs were awful and a waste of calories and money!
Terragusto - wonderful little neighborhood brand new restaurant (BYO Wine). Their philosophy is slow food, organic, fresh and in season, local merchants. Med. priced food. Near the ballpark. Highly recommend. All the pastas are homemade.
Pane Caldo - (312-649-0055 at 72 E Walton 1/2 blk W of Michigan)
Italian, very expensive, extensive wine list, very small, intimate, excellent food.
Intelligentsia Coffee (33123 N. Broadway St. and 53 East Randolph between Michigan and Wabsash). Watch out Starbucks - you have some serious competition!! Organic coffee, and the best I have ever tasted.
Many fodorites recommend Hot Doug's for the best hot dogs but it was too far out of the city for us to go.
Plan to go to Fontera Grill (Rick Bayless) on Clark between Illinois and Hubbard 312-661-1434.) Have heard nothing but great reviews.
I only have a few minutes to glance at your report and will read it in detail when I return home.
We are currently tourists in Chicago right now. We leave tomorrow.
Excited-Confused:
I can recommend some outstanding restaurants:
Merlo on Maple (16 W. Maple #312-335-8200) Excellent Italian - very pricey but superb food and wine.
Tango Sur - med priced. Argentine food. Near Wrigley Field - the best rib eye and potatoes!
Don't go to Gold Coast Dogs on N. Wabash at Randolph (this was highly recommended by Frommers, and many other restaurant reviews, but not smart fodorites!) The hot dogs were awful and a waste of calories and money!
Terragusto - wonderful little neighborhood brand new restaurant (BYO Wine). Their philosophy is slow food, organic, fresh and in season, local merchants. Med. priced food. Near the ballpark. Highly recommend. All the pastas are homemade.
Pane Caldo - (312-649-0055 at 72 E Walton 1/2 blk W of Michigan)
Italian, very expensive, extensive wine list, very small, intimate, excellent food.
Intelligentsia Coffee (33123 N. Broadway St. and 53 East Randolph between Michigan and Wabsash). Watch out Starbucks - you have some serious competition!! Organic coffee, and the best I have ever tasted.
Many fodorites recommend Hot Doug's for the best hot dogs but it was too far out of the city for us to go.
Plan to go to Fontera Grill (Rick Bayless) on Clark between Illinois and Hubbard 312-661-1434.) Have heard nothing but great reviews.
Aug 20th, 2007, 06:04 PM
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oh one more thing excited and confused:
we feel Chicago is very clean and safe.
we have been riding the subway and buses and love it!
the people are incidibly friendly and helpful. again we have been out walking at night in many of the downtown areas, and wrigley field areas at night and feel safe primarily because there are so many other tourists around!!
don't forget to do the Riverboat -Architectual Boat Tours (across from the Navy Pier).
It is the same tours that were featured in the Jennifer Aniston and Vince Vaughn movie The Breakup.
Millinium Park and the
we feel Chicago is very clean and safe.
we have been riding the subway and buses and love it!
the people are incidibly friendly and helpful. again we have been out walking at night in many of the downtown areas, and wrigley field areas at night and feel safe primarily because there are so many other tourists around!!
don't forget to do the Riverboat -Architectual Boat Tours (across from the Navy Pier).
It is the same tours that were featured in the Jennifer Aniston and Vince Vaughn movie The Breakup.
Millinium Park and the
Aug 20th, 2007, 07:27 PM
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There is always reason to be cautious in any big city, especially areas that aren't populated by tourists. Chicago has it's share of crime, so just be aware of your surroundings and use common sense, just like you would when you travel anywhere.
Aug 20th, 2007, 08:45 PM
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With all due respect to nanabee, Hot Doug's isn't out of the city limits. Far from it.
Terragusto and Hot Doug's are only about a 5 minute cab ride apart. Both are located in the Roscoe Village area of Lakeview. However, Hot Doug's is currently closed until August 28.
If anyone is interested in going to Hot Doug's (and I certainly think they should be!), check their website first because they do close at various times of the year.
P.S. Tango Sur is one of my favorite restaurants and you'll see that I recommend it repeatedly. VERY reasonably priced entrees. The average price for a steak entree in the city is over $35 (depending on the cut), many are over $40 and some even over $50 - whereas you will be paying considerably less at Tango Sur. That's why it's always packed. No reservations, BYOB helps a lot with the final price tag as well.
Terragusto and Hot Doug's are only about a 5 minute cab ride apart. Both are located in the Roscoe Village area of Lakeview. However, Hot Doug's is currently closed until August 28.
If anyone is interested in going to Hot Doug's (and I certainly think they should be!), check their website first because they do close at various times of the year.
P.S. Tango Sur is one of my favorite restaurants and you'll see that I recommend it repeatedly. VERY reasonably priced entrees. The average price for a steak entree in the city is over $35 (depending on the cut), many are over $40 and some even over $50 - whereas you will be paying considerably less at Tango Sur. That's why it's always packed. No reservations, BYOB helps a lot with the final price tag as well.
